Indholdsfortegnelse for January 2013 i Bon Appetit

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE MEET OUR NEW COLUMNIST Obsessed with all things food and drink? Tag along with Consumed columnist Matt Duckor as he hangs with Sean Brock, eats at the Thai place whose wings you’ll soon be craving nonstop, and generally devours life one plate at a time. bonappetit.com/go/consumed JOINUS ONLINE! The Food Lover’s Cleanse 2013: Our favorite way to recover from holiday indulgence is back (see page 38)! Join food-cleanse guru Sara Dickerman as she live-blogs the two-week event, and shows how to eat healthy and keep it tasty. bonappetit.com/go/cleanse Out with the Old (and Annoying) While much of this month’s issue looks a what’s next for 2013, we asked some of our favorite opinionated people on Twitter what #foodtrends they’d like to leave in…

1 Grapefruit’s New Main Squeeze It turns out that THE PALOMA, not the Margarita, is Mexico’s most beloved cocktail, and it’s making inroads north of the border. Basic versions contain nothing more than tequila, grapefruit-flavored soda (Jarritos is the brand of choice, but yes, Fresca will work), and ice. But we prefer ours with tequila’s smoky cousin, mezcal, fresh grapefruit juice, and a splash of club soda. Think of it as the country’s bracing answer to rum and Coke—and a refreshing antidote to all things gray this winter. PALOMA Pour some kosher salt on a plate. Rub half of rim of a highball glass with a grapefruit wedge; dip rim of glass in salt. Combine ¼ cup fresh grapefruit juice, 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, and 1 tsp. sugar in…

I’M A HEDONIST. I MARK THE HOLIDAYS with rib roasts and bourbon balls. By the time January arrives, my eating habits could stand to be recalibrated. But I’m not following December’s indulgences with cayenne and lemon. How can I restore balance without giving up delicious food? For the third year in a row, my answer is the Food Lover’s Cleanse, a two-week, three-meal-a-day program with recipes, shopping lists, and snack ideas that I designed with nutritionist Marissa Lippert for bonappetit.com. It’s a way for me—and you—to get on the right track for 2013. It replaces dietary vices, like my beloved white pasta and random snacking, with healthful and tasty foods: home-cooked meals of whole grains, lean protein, good fats, and a wheelbarrowful of produce (see “The Rules,” right). I don’t…

It’s no mystery why all the kids in cooking school learn how to pan roast before they ever get a single stain on their new chef’s jackets. It’s hands down the most effective, mouthwatering way to cook a piece of protein. Want boneless chicken breasts that are bursting with juice and topped with a golden, crunchy skin? Or maybe a thick salmon fillet that’s a tender medium-rare at its center? The art of the pan roast is a sequence of four easy-to-master steps, each designed to coax maximum flavor and texture from whatever you’re cooking: THE SEAR: Browning on the stove-top creates a flavorful, crusty outside layer. THE FLIP: Frequently turning protein without skin (like steak) allows it to brown all over. Skin-on proteins (like chicken and fish) stay skin…

Remember that lightbulb moment when you tasted your first dry-aged steak or peak-season tomato and thought, Oh, this is what it’s supposed to taste like? Make the switch to homemade stock and you’ll find yourself thinking that a lot. Homemade is richer, deeper, and more flavorful than the canned stuff, which means that everything you add it to—risottos, braises, stews—will be richer, deeper, and more flavorful, too. That’s true whether you’re making chicken stock or our surprise favorite: vegetable stock. Nuanced and full of umami, good vegetable stocks are no longer only for vegetarians. So spend a few hours making either of these recipes; it will pay dividends for weeks to come. VEGETABLE STOCK MAKES 2 QUARTS Don’t bother peeling the onions; their skins add a nice, rich brown color…

PEPPER MILL Matthias Merges, chef at Chicago’s Yusho, loads different pepper mills with spices and seeds, which he uses to finish dishes. “In winter, we have cloves for rich stews, as well as coriander, mustard, and fennel seeds,” he says. Unicorn Magnum Plus, $55; broadwaypanhandler.com MEAT GRINDER Whether you’re after the freshest burgers or want to get in on the house-made sausage trend, Noah Bernamoff, of New York’s Mile End deli, recommends a hand-cranked meat grinder. “A food processor tends to whip and de-texture proteins,” he cautions. “The grinder gives meat a nice, rustic texture.” Tre Spade, $150; williams-sonoma.com DIGITAL SCALE Portland’s bread-and-pizza prince, Ken Forkish, says the case for digital scales is as simple as salt. “Coarse versus fine salt at equal weight will produce equivalent results,” he explains.…

SHOPPING INFO SAUCES pp. 72–75 MOURAD: NEW MOROCCAN by Mourad Lahlou, $25, published by Artisan; amazon.com TRAVEL PLANNER ED LETTER p. 10 BABBO 110 Waverly Pl., NYC; 212-777-0303; babbonyc.com BLUE HILL 75 Washington Pl., NYC; 212-539-1776; bluehillfarm.com DANIEL 60 E. 65th St., NYC; 212-288-0033; danielnyc.com FRONTERA GRILL 445 N. Clark St., Chicago; 312-661-1434; rickbayless.com JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION 167 W. 12th St., NYC; 212-675-4984; jamesbeard.org MESA GRILL 102 Fifth Ave., NYC; 212-807-7400; mesagrill.com THE RIVER CAFÉ Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd., London; +44-20-7386-4200, rivercafe.co.uk R.S.V.P. pp. 12–15 THE ASHBY INN & RESTAURANT 692 Federal St., Paris, VA.; 540-592-3900; ashbyinn.com FAT HEN 3140 Maybank Hwy., Johns Island, SC; 843-559-9090; thefathen.com ‘SNICE 45 Eighth Ave., NYC; 212-645-0310; snicecafe.com for more locations NAVIGATOR: MIAMI pp. 46–47 ACME BAKERY & COFFEE 3451 NE First Ave., No.…

THE BEST THING ABOUT BEING a magazine writer is that you meet all sorts of interesting people you otherwise never would. And you get to ask them nearly anything. I got my first taste of the reporting life back in ’94, when I started volunteering at the James Beard Foundation. After I’d been working there for about a month, my boss, Mitchell Davis, asked if I’d like to interview Daniel Boulud. “Sure!” I said. “Who’s Daniel Boulud?” In the ensuing 18 years, I’ve been lucky enough to sit down with lots of big-name chefs and restaurateurs. And I’ve always used the opportunity to pick their brains about how to be a better cook. I figure if their answers help me, they’ll help readers, too. So, in the spirit of this…

QUICK TIP #1: KEEP IT IN ONE POT It’s not just about cook time—one-pot meals also equal easy cleanup. Thai Chicken Curry ACTIVE 30 MINUTES TOTAL 45 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS 2 tsp. vegetable oil 1 4-oz. can or jar yellow curry paste ¾ lb. carrots, peeled, cut into ½"-thick rounds 1 medium onion, chopped 1 red bell pepper, cut into 1" pieces 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (about 3), peeled, cut into ½" pieces 1 lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into 1" pieces 1 13.5-oz. or 15-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk Chopped fresh basil and cilantro Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add curry paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add carrots, onion, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is…

“I NEVER, EVER EAT ANYTHING for health reasons. I eat for taste,” says René Redzepi, celebrated Nordic forager, exalter of pine needles, sea buckthorn, and edible moss. On break from his day job in Copenhagen running Noma, otherwise known as the best restaurant in the world, Redzepi is, improbably, standing in my tiny New York kitchen, drinking a bottle of Tsingtao and attempting to persuade me that it’s possible to make a meal of these stalky, stemmy, dirt-caked rooty things called “vegetables.” I don’t hate our friends in the plant kingdom. Really, I don’t. (Tell ’em, Cauliflower, old buddy!) I’ve just never known how to make them shine. At the farmers’ market, I regard the abundant plenty and think: Salad or side dish. Never main event. At Noma, Redzepi can…

As successful as each is, it’s hard to imagine Daniel Boulud and Danny Bowien ever in the same room. Boulud grew up in Lyon, the culinary capital of France, and has built a restaurant empire that includes his Manhattan flagship, Daniel. Bowien was raised in the culinary desert known as Oklahoma City. He dropped out of culinary school, then made his name with Mission Chinese Food in San Francisco. Last year he opened an outpost of MCF in New York. Get them talking, though, and it’s clear the two share more than a set of initials. Both DBs have a tireless drive to discover and share good tastes, a generous, fun-loving approach to running restaurants, and a reverence for traditions that transcends generational differences. So what happened when they met?…

When it comes to making sauces today, old-school rules no longer apply. These bright vegetable-, citrus-, and herb-based mixes add a jolt of flavor to just about any dish you can think of, from seared lamb chops to whole fish to rice and beans. We love how lemons and limes lend pucker, shallots and garlic give depth, and olive oil—not butter—brings everything together. Unlike by-the-book “classic” sauces that involve roasted veal bones and complicated reductions, these require little more than a mixing bowl or the press of a food-processor button, along with a willingness to lighten up. GREEN HARISSA MAKES 1½ CUPS Harissa is typically made with hot chiles and served with couscous. This herb-based spin is great with roasted vegetables, or as a rub for fish. 2 Tbsp. cumin…

LEMON-HONEY TART WITH SALTED SHORTBREAD CRUST 8–10 SERVINGS As a rule, every dough you make should contain salt—it complements the sweetness in your filling—and this buttery shortbread is no exception. Using salt in the crust and the filling helps create balance among the sweet, the bitter (from the lemon peel), and the acidic notes (from the fresh lemon juice). CRUST Nonstick vegetable oil spray 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. cornstarch 1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into 1" pieces 2/3 cup powdered sugar FILLING AND ASSEMBLY 1 Meyer lemon or thin-skinned regular lemon 1 cup sugar 3 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 3 large eggs 2 large egg yolks 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 tsp. cornstarch…

If you think Christian Louboutin is obsessive about shoes, well, then, you’ve never met him for breakfast. Turns out that the man who made red-soled stilettos famous the world over (as in 500,000 pairs sold each year) is as passionate about design as he is about his beverage of choice in the morning: tea. “Liters and liters and gallons and gallons of tea,” if he’s going to be exact about it. Unless, of course, he’s in Italy, where he drinks cappuccino. (Because, if you’re going to drink espresso, you’re going to do it in Italia, no?) Regardless of his beverage or his location—which is constantly changing, with boutiques in more than two dozen countries and homes in Paris, Lisbon, Aleppo, and Luxor—one thing never changes: fruit. “I could not live…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, MY WIFE AND I RECENTLY CHECKED OUT THE DINING SCENE IN CHARLESTON, SC, AND IT WAS AMAZING. OUR FAVORITE DISH OF THE TRIP? THE CHOCOLATE CAKE AT FAT HEN.—VASCO PEREZ, Mobile, AL CHOCOLATE BUTTERMILK CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE-PECAN ICING 14 SERVINGS This chocolate cake has no outer frosting, but the filling is so rich you won’t miss it. Chopping the pecans finely helps keep the layers even when frosted. CAKE Nonstick vegetable oil spray 3¼ cups cake flour 1 cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder 1½ tsp. baking soda 1½ tsp. kosher salt 3 large eggs 2¾ cups sugar 3 cups vegetable oil 1½ cups buttermilk 1½ tsp. distilled white vinegar 1½ tsp. vanilla extract ICING AND ASSEMBLY ½ cup plus 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ cup natural unsweetened…

SWITCH CHOPSTICKS DITCH THE TAKE-OUT KIND AND STOCK UP ON GOOD ONES AT PEARLRIVER.COM IF YOU’VE EVER GONE out for Korean food, you know how hard it is to resist the bibimbap: crisp rice topped with bulgogi (marinated beef) and a rainbow of veggies, all crowned with a fried egg and served in a piping-hot stone bowl. There’s alchemy in stirring it all together, when yolk meets beef and chile and scallion. It’s surprisingly simple to make great bibimbap for a dinner party. The toppings can be prepped ahead, and you don’t need that many ingredients. Instead of a stone bowl, use a skillet to give the rice its irresistible crunch. Dish it out, let guests add toppings, and marvel that you’re not in a restaurant. Bibimbap at Home ACTIVE…

IT LOOKED AS THOUGH Miami would forever be the rich, spoiled teenager of American food cities. The collective gastronomic strut suggested style over substance; the unspoken password was glitz over grits. But the Magic City dining scene has been maturing fast, cultivated by a cavalry of neighborhood restaurants, markets, bakeries, and other low-key spots, many owned by local chefs who made their mark helming swankier establishments. The big boys with global cred have set up shop, too, including the likes of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud, and José Andrés, whose restaurant The Bazaar at SLS Hotel South Beach has become the hottest reservation in town. At last, Miami residents can act like proud parents and exclaim, “Our city is growing up!” THE ULTIMATE FOOD COURT The most ambitious recent opening is…

For years, you couldn’t go to a four-star restaurant without getting a forkful of mâche. Then there was a love affair with arugula. And we still have feelings for kale. But these days, the salads we really can’t resist don’t even have the very thing that used to define salads: the greens. Like many of the country’s most inventive chefs, we’re replacing them with other, less obvious vegetables (and nuts and herbs and seeds). Mandoline in hand, we’re shaving sturdy produce into ribbons and coins, adding outside-the-salad-bar complements, and dressing them lightly in simple vinaigrettes. The results are delicate yet packed with bite—and, without question, far more dynamic than any bowl of romaine and Ranch could ever be. KEY STEPS: How to Slice like a Pro When working with firm,…

It’s a well-kept kitchen secret: Braising makes heroes out of weekend cooks. There is no other technique that asks so little yet gives so much back. As long as you can remember four simple, universal steps (and have the patience to wait as the braise fills your house with the most tempting of scents), anyone—anyone—can elicit oohs and aahs from a table full of friends and family. Really, it’s that easy to produce restaurant-quality results from a home oven, whether you’re talking fork-tender short ribs or fall-off-the-bone pork shoulder. Basically any number of cuts of meat that benefit from a seared exterior and a thick, rich, glistening sauce that has been building all day. If you’re looking to dial it up in the kitchen (with minimal effort), braising is a…

PUCKER UP FROM P. 19 It may be dark and cold outside, but winter is grapefruit’s time to shine. There are several varieties to choose from—skin colors range from green to gold, and flesh may vary from yellow to crimson, with a full spectrum of flavors inside. Here’s a rundown on the types you’re most likely to find. —CHRIS MOROCCO 1. ORO BLANCO The “white gold” is a cross between a pomelo and a white grapefruit, with bright green to lemon yellow skin, a thick rind, and sweet flesh with almost no bitterness. 2. RED Supposedly, the redder the flesh, the sweeter the flavor, but we find red grapefruit to be the least complex tasting (and often plenty bitter). On the upside, that color comes from lycopene, a cancer-fighting antioxidant.…