Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2016 i Bon Appetit

FOLLOW ADAM ON TWITTER, INSTAGRAM, AND SNAPCHAT AT @RAPO4 THE WELL-PREPPED COOK Two summers ago, my wife decided to host a party in our backyard for a bunch of her girlfriends. “Cool,” I said. “Can I cook something for you guys?” Well...yeah. Turns out I wouldn’t be cooking anything. Simone had already reached out to my then-assistant (and now BA assistant editor), Amiel Stanek. In Simone’s eyes, I might have been her food-loving husband, but Amiel was a pro. Before coming to Bon App, Amiel had cooked at a bar in Philadelphia, deftly running its small kitchen as a one-man show. He had something to offer that I didn’t: experience. I remember the day he arrived at our apartment. He unloaded a stack of plastic quart containers, each neatly labeled…

They’re as durable as old tractors and they’re low-tech, so there’s not much to break on them.” —Marco Canora I ’VE NEVER BEEN INTO the modernist manipulation of ingredients. I like real, traditional food—and real, traditional tools. The food mill is sexy to me because it processes food in such a minimal, unobtrusive way. It’s so old-world. There’s the bowl, which is really just a funnel fitted with a hole-punched bottom plate, and a hand crank. Work that around and around, and its blade crushes the food through the pores of the mill. The first thing I ever made with a food mill was tomato sauce. Every summer as a kid in upstate New York, when the garden was coming up tomatoes, my family would pass them through the mill to…

Dutch Masters Is there any time of day when a pancake is not welcome at the table? What about a Savory Dutch Baby that mixes up in seconds? Didn’t think so. Place a medium ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, in the center of oven and preheat oven to 450°; let pan heat at least 25 minutes. Blend 3 room temperature large eggs in a blender until very frothy. With motor running, gradually add ¾ cup room-temperature milk, then 2 Tbsp. slightly cooled, melted unsalted butter; blend 30 seconds. Add ½ cup all-purpose flour, 2 Tbsp. cornstarch, ½ tsp. kosher salt, and ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper. Remove skillet from oven and swirl 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter in skillet to coat. Immediately pour in batter (butter will brown quickly, so…

Find more kitchens that inspire (and make you insanely jealous). Go to bonappetit.com/kitchen. Beth Kirby’s home office is her kitchen. It’s where the stylist, photographer, and recipe developer creates the dramatically lit images of artfully assembled dishes that have made her a star of Pinterest and Instagram. So when she needed to create a high-performance test kitchen and photo studio in her North Chattanooga, Tennessee, home two years ago, she called the couple whose Pinterest board most inspired her: Tara Mangini and Percy Bright of Jersey Ice Cream Co. She loved their aesthetic so much, she gave them complete control, since, Kirby admits, “I will take ten years to pick out a faucet.” The duo practically moved in and did everything from building the reclaimed wood island to crafting the…

GRILLED ASPARAGUS AND SPRING ONIONS WITH LEMON DRESSING 8 SERVINGS Fat asparagus stalks won’t fall through the grill grates—and they can char without becoming soft and stringy. 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. finely grated Meyer lemon zest 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. fresh Meyer lemon juice 1 Tbsp. whole grain mustard ¼ cup olive oil, plus more Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 large bunches thick asparagus, trimmed 2 bunches spring onions, halved if large Prepare grill for medium-high. Whisk lemon zest, Meyer lemon zest, lemon juice, Meyer lemon juice, mustard, and ¼ cup oil in a medium bowl to combine; season dressing with salt and pepper (if you don’t have Meyer lemons, use regular lemons in their place). Place asparagus and spring onions on a…

White onions An especially sharp variety that’s best chopped or sliced raw into salads, slaws, and pico de gallo. Red onions Usually used raw or pickled for a pop of flavor and color. But when you slow-roast them, they taste like candy. Shallots Super versatile! Chop into marinades; slice thin and shallow-fry for salads; or roast whole with skin for an easy side. Scallions Slice on a bias to finish noodles with something fresh, or toss into slaw. They’re also great charred whole on the grill. Leeks Delicate flavors come out when slowly cooked. Remove thick green leaves and slice white and pale-green parts into a gratin. Green garlic Available in spring, it’s less intense than grown-up garlic. Stir into soft-scrambled eggs or sautéed veg to take its edge off.…

IT’S NOT ALL GREEN JUICE “I don’t eat french fries every day, so when I do, it’s like, Have the best. The fries at Minetta Tavern are top-notch.” COMMON In the early ’90s, at the height of the East Coast/West Coast hip-hop feud, Common rose above the fray with a socially conscious message. Decades later, the Grammy- and Oscar-winning rapper has finally owned up to his own geographic affiliations—when it comes to green juice. “On the West Coast, I go to a place called Beaming and get the Radiance, with spinach, rose water, chlorophyll, and pear,” says the 44-year-old pescatarian. “On the East Coast, I go to Pressed Juicery and get the Greens 3: spinach, parsley, kale, and apple.” Clean eating has helped Common get in shape for a side…

SPECIAL VEGAS EDITION Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at rsvp@bonappetit.com* Jackpot! This month, Las Vegas is taking over R.S.V.P. Some things may stay in Vegas, but not these recipes. DEAR BON APPÉTIT, IT’S HARD TO IMPROVE ON A CLASSIC WEDGE SALAD, BUT THE ONE AT DB BRASSERIE AT THE VENETIAN IS THE BEST I’VE HAD IN RECENT MEMORY. THE SECRET MUST BE IN THE SUPERCREAMY DRESSING. COULD YOU WORK YOUR MAGIC? —Jacob Muilenberg, Seattle ICEBERG WITH TOMATOES, BLUE CHEESE, AND BACON 4 SERVINGS The iceberg lettuce is sliced into rounds instead of angled wedges, exposing the entire surface to the blue cheese dressing and toppings. 1 cup walnuts 4 slices bacon 8 oz. blue cheese, crumbled, divided ½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream ½ cup…

Tricks of the Trade Four experts share the techniques they say make their biscuits the best. Crowd the Pan “Drop the dough into a cast-iron skillet with a spoon. If you pack it tight, they’ll push up against each other and rise pretty high.” —Karl Worley, Biscuit Love, Nashville Join the Fold “The secret to a flaky texture is not overworking the dough. Fold the top third of the dough down and the bottom third up like a piece of paper you’re fitting into an envelope.” —Katy Millard, Coquine, Portland, OR Powder Properly “Most commercial baking powder has a metallic aftertaste, so I make my own by mixing two parts cream of tartar with one part baking soda. All you taste is flour and fat, not aluminum.” —Linton Hopkins, Hop’s…

Did someone say Passover party mix? Probably not, but we made one anyway. Find the recipe in Prep School, p. 114. Matzo-Kimchi Pancakes Crush 1 sheet matzo into very fine pieces. Mix in a bowl with 3 Tbsp. kimchi juice and let sit 8 minutes. Pour off excess liquid and mix in 3 thinly sliced scallions, 1 cup chopped drained kimchi, 3 Tbsp. finely chopped onion, 3 Tbsp. potato starch, 1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1 tsp. sugar. Heat 1 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a medium nonstick skillet over mediumhigh. Add half of batter to skillet and flatten into a thin pancake; cook until golden brown and crisp on both sides, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with another 1 Tbsp. oil and remaining batter. 2 servings…

*perhaps known in your neck of the woods as Houston’s, Honor Bar, R+D Kitchen, or 12 others Thanks, but no thanks. That’s essentially the response I got. It’s not often that a restaurant turns down a story in a national food magazine. As the deputy editor of Bon Appétit, I’m usually the one fielding calls from publicists requesting coverage for the cool new place from so-and-so who worked for a month at Noma in Copenhagen. Big-name chefs are featured in our pages monthly. So why was a chain restaurant telling me to get lost? That’s what happened when I first e-mailed the Hillstone Restaurant Group. They’d get back to me, they wrote. (Hey, that’s my line!) When they did, it was only to say that they would discuss the possibility…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX LAU FROM P. 68 SHALLOT WE ? Fung Tu’s miraculous crisp-tangy shallots are so addictive, we’ve sworn off packaged fried onions for good. Here’s how to do it. —AMIEL STANEK 1. Lightly pickle thinly sliced shallot rings in a mixture of black and sherry vinegars to lend an irresistible acidity and funk. 2. After an hour, drain, pat dry and dredge them in a mixture of flour and cornmeal—this is the key to achieving a crispy coating. 3. Heat 2" vegetable oil to 300°. Fry shallots until golden, about 3 minutes; drain on paper towels and immediately season with salt. FROM P. 78 WHERE ARE YOU ON THE CARAMEL SPECTRUM? Not all caramel is equal. The longer sugar cooks, the darker the color and the richer the…

Need a good butcher? On the bottom of the following pages, you’ll find a list of 21 new(ish) spots we love. SO WE ALL KNOW we’re supposed to be buying better meat, right? (Right!) That it’s more sustainable to shop at those whole-animal butchers who use everything from the nose to the tail. But walk into one of today’s newschool butcher shops, and you might find yourself with more questions than answers. What do you mean they’re sold out of hanger steak? What’s all that cool stuff in the freezer case? And just what exactly is a teres major? Before you turn around empty-handed, let us help. We’ll tell you what to order (and how to cook it), why you should befriend your butcher, and how to know you’re getting…

SPOTTED STATESIDE AT… SWEETFIN POKÉ SANTA MONICA OHANA POKÉ CO. LOS ANGELES WISEFISH POKÉ NEW YORK C I TY SAM CHOY’S POKÉ TO THE MAX SEATTLE 1 THE TUNA Use quality fish from a source you trust. To make four bowls, buy ¾ lb. tuna (avoid bluefin in favor of sustainably caught albacore or skipjack) and cut into ½" pieces. (If you don’t eat raw fish, use cooked salmon.) For more on shopping and slicing tuna, see Prep School, page 119. 2 THE SEAWEED Plump strands of marinated seaweed add oceanic depth to every bite. Rehydrate 2 Tbsp. dried hijiki (seaweed) in ½ cup cold water until softened, 30–35 minutes. Drain and mix with 1 Tbsp. mirin, 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, and ½ tsp. sesame seeds. Let sit 5 minutes,…

FOR MORE OTTOLENGHI RECIPES, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/OTTOLENGHI there’s a whole lot of baking going on. We’re over halfway through testing the recipes for my next book, which is all about sweets. A big pot of lemon verbena tea is at the ready for our weekly tasting meeting, there to take the edge off the sugar hit that’s about to come our way. I’ve got no problem with sugar per se, but these sessions are far removed from regular cake-eating conditions. We’re not talking one or two slices of something. We’ll be tasting and assessing between ten and 12 things in one go. I know, it’s a tough job. The book’s co-author is Helen Goh, with whom I’ve collaborated on all things sweet for more than ten years. Helen develops and…

1 Yes, You Should Give a Flip > You know the move: a flick of the wrist, food suspended midair, then a soft landing back in the pan. The pan-flip serves a simple purpose, and it’s not (just) to make cooks look cool. It ensures that food cooks evenly over high heat, it’s what marries pasta to sauce— and it does it all sans pesky spoons. Master the technique, then make Jonathan Wu's dish. —ANDY BARAGHANI & MERYL ROTHSTEIN Practice with something dry like nuts or beans. we’d suggest starching over a sink!  THE PRO JONATHAN WU CHEF / FUNG TU NYC Stir-Fried Asparagus with Bacon and Crispy Shallots ¼ cup black vinegar ¼ cup sherry vinegar 2 small shallots, thinly sliced into rings 4 oz. slab bacon, cut into…

ROAST FOR THE MOST Alliums couldn’t be more at home in the oven, smothered in olive oil and seasoned with salt. Scatter green onions in a cast-iron skillet and roast hot and fast for crisp stalks, or pile bulbs in a baking dish and give them the low-andslow treatment for tender, golden results. In dishes that have enough oil, you’re left with an irresistibly flavored infusion, so don’t forget bread for dipping. SLOW-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH ALL THE GARLIC 4 green garlic bulbs 1 3 ½–4-lb. chicken Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 cup peeled garlic cloves 1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges, seeds removed ½ cup olive oil Preheat oven to 325°. Trim dark tops from green garlic and place in chicken cavity; loosely tie legs together with kitchen twine. Halve…

SHOPPING LIST KITCHEN ENVY pp. 50–54 ANALOGUE LIFE analoguelife.com THE FOOD52 SHOP food52.com/shop HERRIOTT GRACE herriottgrace.com LODGE CAST IRON lodgemfg.com QUITOKEETO quitokeeto.com TRAVEL PLANNER R.S.V.P. pp. 12–16 DB BRASSERIE 3355 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas; 702-430-4642; dbbrasserie.com GIADA 3595 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas; 855-442-3271; giadadelaurentiis.com/vegas MESA GRILL 3570 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas; 877-346-5965; mesagrill.com WHAT A MEAT MARKET! pp. 19–24 ARTISAN MEAT SHARE 33 Spring St., Charleston, SC; 843-641-7299; artisanmeatsharecharleston.com THE BUTCHER & LARDER 1427 W. Willow St., Chicago CLOVE & HOOF 4001 Broadway, Oakland, CA; 510-547-1446 DELTA MEAT MARKET 118 N. Sharpe Ave., Cleveland, MS; 662-444-6328; deltameatmarket.com DICKSON’S FARMSTAND MEATS 75 Ninth Ave., NYC; 212-242-2630; dicksonsfarmstand.com HARLEM SHAMBLES 2141 Frederick Douglass Blvd., NYC; 646-476-4650; harlemshambles.com MAINE STREET MEATS 461 Commercial St., Rockport, ME; 207-236-6328; mainemeat.com THE MEAT HOOK 100…