Indholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2019 i Bon Appetit

THE LONGER I GRILL, the more I realize I don’t actually know what I’m doing. (Although, of course, I act like I do—tongs in one hand, beer in the other, pontificating about internal temperatures and how that strip steak needs time to rest before we slice it.) Grilling is such a temperamental form of cooking that you’re constantly reacting to what it throws at you, bobbing and weaving to the intensity of the fire, struggling to figure out that sweet spot between your bone-in chicken being dried out and a cringey medium-rare. But if you grill long enough, you begin to learn what you don’t know. At least, I finally have. With just a modicum of humility, let me put down my lager and share some grilling truths that I’ve…

AN APEROL SPRITZ, THE COCKTAIL that greeted Kirsten at check-in, is a fine way to start any stay, and Hotel Joaquin impressed Kirsten from arrival to checkout. There’s plenty to see and do (and eat!), but a few of her favorite activities included morning yoga in the roof garden and hiking at sunset. “Man-powered activities or [those with] a small footprint on the landscape are important to me,” she said. Over at Saline, the in-house restaurant, Kirsten’s most memorable meal was an Argentinian dish. “The flavors are complex and rich without being weighed down,” she said of the breaded veal and fried egg served alongside a simple salad with fresh greens from the roof garden, as well as the broccolini. Though Kirsten lives in L.A., she takes with her fond…

MAKES 4 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce2 garlic cloves, finely grated2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more⅓ cup plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil; plus more for grill6 Tbsp. mayonnaise¼ cup chopped cornichons (about 9) Kosher salt4 large skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 1½ lb. total)4 brioche buns, split1 medium fennel bulb, halved, thinly sliced, fronds coarsely chopped1 cup basil leaves, torn if large 1. Whisk mustard, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, 2 Tbsp. lemon juice, and 2 tsp. pepper in a medium bowl. Stream in ⅓ cup oil, whisking constantly until emulsified. Transfer half of marinade to a small bowl, then whisk in mayonnaise and cornichons; season dressing with salt. Set aside. 2. Season chicken thighs all over with salt and…

4 SERVINGS 4 skin-on, boneless chicken thighs (about 1⅓ lb.)1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided1 oil-packed anchovy fillet, finely chopped1 garlic clove, finely grated¼ cup finely chopped parsley1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar1 tsp. Dijon mustard½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes3 scallions, white and pale green parts only, thinly sliced 1. Set a large piece of foil and a heavy skillet aside for weighing down chicken. Season chicken on both sides with salt and pepper. Pour 1 Tbsp. oil into a medium cast-iron skillet. Arrange chicken thighs in pan skin side down (make sure they don’t overlap) and set pan over medium-high. Place foil over chicken, then set skillet on top. Cook chicken, checking halfway through to make sure…

Senior Staff Writer ALEX BEGGS It’s hot. Life is hard. I need a Painkiller. Specifically, bartender Shannon Mustipher’s version of the classic tiki drink at Glady’s in Brooklyn. It’s heavy on the pineapple, heavy on the rum, and then coconut cream comes in, a grating of nutmeg, and suddenly we’re there: the beach. Digital Restaurant Editor ELYSE INAMINE on The Only Souvenirs She Got in Hawaii MOST VISITORS TO MAUI bring back kitschy key chains, maybe a nice tan. Me? A canvas bag filled with beautiful vessels from Karina Subijana of Altar Ceramics. I loved her pieces so much when I dined at the Mill House and Lineage, I DM’d her on Instagram to buy her hand-thrown wares, like this beachylooking mug ($48), teal bowl with a drippy glaze ($52),…

TO REALLY UNDERSTAND A CHEF, find out what he cooks on his day off. For Tom Cunanan of Bad Saint restaurant—a Hot 10 alum we can’t seem to quit—that means grilled shrimp tossed with chile-coconut palapa, charred leafy greens doused in fiery sate oil, and Manila-style street meats marinated in Sprite and skewered on some mismatched chopsticks he found in a drawer. Cunanan credits his late mother for a trove of family recipes passed down from the Philippines, where he was born, and today cooks by intuition—a pinch here, a pour there. Which is why we took plenty of notes when we gathered up a few of his coworkers-who-are-more-like-friends-who-are-more-likefamily and headed over to their requisite Buddy with the Good Patio’s apartment (he wasn’t actually home, but that’s just the kind…

SHOPPING LIST EDITOR’S LETTER p. 10 P. 10 PROFESSIONAL ALL TRIDENT GRILL from $4,159; lynxgrills.com HOME pp. 13–40 P. 16 BIG COTTON TOTE $35; everybody.world BAD SAINT BBQ pp. 70–79 P. 70 MARSHMALLOW EVERYDAY PLATE (center) $45; eraceramics.com P. 77 9" PLATTER (upper right) $78; beaurushceramics.com FISH X FIRE pp. 84–93 P. 91 11" BLUE HILL JOAN PLATE $60; mondaysbk.com P. 92 BOWL GLOSS GRAY $85; tortoiselife.com Story shot on location in Malibu, CA, via HomeAway; homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p1484006vb TRAVEL PLANNER HOME pp. 13–40 THE CHARTER OAK 1050 Charter Oak Ave., St. Helena, CA; 707-302-6996; thecharteroak.com THE DABNEY 122 Blagden Alley NW, Washington, D.C.; 202-450-1015; thedabney.com EFFERVESCENCE 1036 N. Rampart St., New Orleans; 504-509-7644; nolabubbles.com DESTINATION: TWIN CITIES pp. 43–46 BABANI’S KURDISH RESTAURANT 32 Fillmore Ave. E, St. Paul; 651-602-9964; babanis.com CENTRO 1414…

WIRE STRAINERS “I always use these Winco baskets to char snap peas, roast strawberries for shortcakes, and grill scallops or shrimp. Just toss the items in neutral oil and place the basket over the embers.” $6; amazon.com Christina Lecki, chef, formerly of Reynard, Brooklyn MORIBASHI “These moribashi [long stainless-steel chopsticks] have very fine tapered points that give you so much control for small, deliberate actions. The elongated handles keep your hands a safe distance from the fire. They take awhile to master, but once you get the hang of them, tongs will seem far too clunky.” $90; japaneseknifeimports.com Evan Ingram, co-executive chef, Effervescence, New Orleans LEATHER GRILLING GLOVES “The amazing thing about these G&F gloves is that they are totally heatproof. And because they’re gloves rather than mitts, you have greater dexterity…

THERE IS NO SEASON more intoxicating than summer, and it’s not because we all have that one friend with a pool, porch, or roof. It’s because long afternoons of hot concrete and wet grass melt into longer evenings of meaty smoke plumes and salty air; so many aromas, textures, and “feels” coming together at once. You want a white, a rosé, a chilled red—you want it all. And that’s why this summer you want to check out co-fermented wines. Co-ferments are made by fermenting multiple grape varieties in one vessel. Red, white, seriously any grape can be co-fermented with another to create a new expression. But don’t confuse these with blends, wines that are fermented separately, then poured together to taste, kinda like daiquiris (I’m kidding!). Think of co-ferments like…

EVEN THOUGH I LIVE in a fourth-floor Brooklyn walkup, don’t have a backyard, and am definitely nobody’s dad, you’d be hard-pressed to find someone who loves to grill as much as I do. And I’m here to tell you that regardless of your situation (mine is far from perfect), you can and should own a grill—specifically a $35 portable Weber charcoal grill. Small enough to fit inside an oversize tote bag and lightweight enough to actually carry around, this little grill is truly summer’s hottest accessory. Whether you have a complete lack of outdoor space or you’re just not ready to commit to the full-size version, it’s ideal for taking to the park so you can grill among the people, which is an excellent way to spend a Saturday afternoon.…

4 SERVINGS 4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 1¾ lb. total)2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt2 tsp. mustard seeds1 tsp. fennel seeds3 small cucumbers (such as Persian or kirby), cut into 1" pieces1 watermelon radish or kohlrabi, ½ fennel bulb, or 4" piece daikon, very thinly sliced1 bunch red radishes, trimmed, very thinly sliced1 bunch scallions, sliced ½" thick3 Tbsp. (or more) red wine vinegarLightly crushed salted pita chips (for serving) 1. Heat a medium heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium. 2. Meanwhile, place chicken thighs, skin side down, on a work surface. Using a paring knife and working one at a time, cut a ½"-deep slash along both sides of thigh bone. This will help the thighs cook a little more quickly and evenly. Add oil to…

FOR THE PAST FIVE YEARS, my partner Andrew and I have made our living bouncing around the world, exploring new countries, eating delicious things, and writing about them. So when we finally decided to put down roots, we needed a place that felt both culturally rich and culinarily diverse. After an intense 16-month, 40-state, 229-city search, we picked the Twin Cities: Minneapolis and St. Paul. Surprising? Maybe. But it was the multilayered food scene that sealed the deal. Whatever we craved—Cambodian larb, Afghan kebabs, Russian pelmeni, Nepalese momos, Ecuadorian llapingachos—the world came to us. Here are a few of my favorite spots. The Trini Tearjerker Every time I order the vegan channa or callaloo with tofu at Marla’s Caribbean Cuisine, server/rapper MN Fats asks my preferred spice level. I say…

WHEN I WAS IN NIRVANA and Nevermind came out, all of a sudden I was making a ton of money, which was something I never had. So I bought a beach house in Nags Head, NC, and spent the entire summer of ’92 there, eating Carolina pulled pork from this tiny shack. I realized, Oh, this is barbecue: so simple, but sublime and complex. I BROKE MY LEG FALLING OFF stage during a Foo Fighters show four years ago. When I got off tour, I had nothing to do but mess around with a Big Green Egg that our bassist Nate got me. The first thing I tried was ribs because that’s what’s on the Chili’s commercials. I got the dry rub, hit them with smoke, and served them to…

The Wrapper “A truly American burger should always be wrapped in paper.” The Beef “I wanted to tackle a classic five- or six-dollar burger. I grind the meat every day. Because I’m doing a thinner-style pat ty, I need more fat, and I get that from using a ratio of about 70-to-30 chuck roll to brisket.” The Technique “This is a very Midweststyle griddle burger, so I smash the patty, making sure I get a good crust. From there I salt and flip it, and that’s when the onions go on. I call them glitter magic onions because I glitter the beef with my onions.” The Cheese “It’s just cheap American cheese.” The Bun “I’m from Maryland, so Martin’s are the buns I grew up with. Back then you would…

Cantaloupe and Sugar Snap Peas with Ricotta Salata Scoop out seeds from ½ small cantaloupe or Honey Kiss melon (about 1½ lb.). Place cut side down on a cutting board and remove rind by slicing down along the curve of the melon with a sharp knife and rotating as you go. Cut melon in half again, then very thinly slice each piece into half-moons on a mandoline, or use a vegetable peeler to make ribbons. Remove strings from 8 oz. sugar snap peas and thinly slice on a diagonal. Thinly shave 8 oz. ricotta salata with mandoline or peeler. Toss melon, peas, ricotta salata, and 3 Tbsp. tarragon leaves on a platter. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and squeeze juice from a lemon wedge or two over. Sprinkle with flaky…

The Cherry on Bottom Since cherries take longer than other fruits to release their juices, the biscuits can bake through and develop a bronzed crust before things get too saucy. Sweet Needs Sour Ripe fruit demands plenty of lemon for balance: We use juice to brighten the filling and zest to perfume the biscuits. Melted Moment Slathering the dough with melted butter rather than egg wash helps the biscuits get that crisp lid and, as a bonus, enriches the fruity filling underneath. Cherry Biscuit Cobbler BISCUITS ¼ cup granulated sugar1 Tbsp. baking powder2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest1 tsp. kosher salt2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces1⅓ cups chilled heavy cream FILLING AND ASSEMBLY 2 lb. fresh (or frozen) sweet…

Sure, we love the grilled whole bass on page 90 and the pork shoulder skewers on page 74, but who are we kidding? We know that what you really want for dinner is chicken. That’s why we’re giving you this fiery riff on larb, bone-in thighs with pesto, and more recipes for America’s favorite protein. Spicy Chicken Lettuce Wraps Mix 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, 1 Tbsp. sambal oelek or Sriracha, 1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar, and 1 tsp. fish sauce in a small bowl; set aside. Trim dark green parts from 3 scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Thinly slice white and pale green parts. Finely chop 2 garlic cloves. Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a skillet over medium. Cook scallions and garlic, stirring occasionally, until softened…

4 SERVINGS 1 large egg yolk3 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup mayonnaise1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup Dijon mustard1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 2 large)½ cup extra-virgin olive oil2 cups panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)1 Tbsp. honey Pinch of cayenne pepper3 Tbsp. finely chopped chives 1. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 450°. Whisk egg yolk, 3 Tbsp. mayonnaise, 1 Tbsp. mustard, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton salt, and several cranks of black pepper in a large bowl until smooth. Pat chicken dry with paper towels. With your knife parallel to the cutting board, slice breast into ½"-thick cutlets (if you end up with smaller breasts, you may not need to…

Holy Land A Middle Eastern deli serving Egyptian feta, Jordanian olive oil, and oven-hot pita bread. Ingebretsen’s From licorice to lutefisk, this 98-year-old market brims with Nordic delights. Pooja Grocers Shop for ghee, jaggery, and Parle-G biscuits at this Indian emporium. Kramarczuk’s Open 65 years, this Ukrainian-owned spot makes the Cities’ best kishka and kolaches. Hmongtown and Hmong Village Rival indoor/outdoor markets sell medicinal herbs, textiles, and chiles by the bucket.…

9AM—Prince’s Breakfast Royalty eats first, and only the best: Fancy Feast Gourmet Naturals White Meat Recipe. 10AM—Coffee & Newspaper Prince sprawls across the arts section while I brew the beans. 12PM—Farmers Market What’s in season? Radishes, strawberries, and summer greens. 1PM—Lunchtime We keep it healthy: Fancy Feast Gourmet Naturals dry food for the four-legged, a quick-n-easy farmers market salad for me. 3PM—Post-Lunch Chillllll The cats are on their 14th nap of the day, so I indulge in a face mask. Learn more about Fancy Feast Gourmet Naturals at FANCYFEAST.COM…

Clams with Spicy Tomato Broth and Garlic Mayo 4 SERVINGS You don’t absolutely have to make these clams on the grill. Just heat the cast-iron skillet over medium on your stovetop. Inside or out, you’ll still have buttery clams to enjoy. ½ lemon5 garlic cloves, 1 whole, 4 thinly sliced½ cup mayonnaiseKosher salt¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil2 large shallots, thinly sliced1 red chile (such as Holland or Fresno), thinly sliced, or ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes2 Tbsp. tomato paste2 cups cherry tomatoes1 cup dry white wine36 littleneck clams, scrubbed6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces3 Tbsp. finely chopped chives4 thick slices country-style bread Prepare a grill for medium heat. Finely grate zest from lemon half into a small bowl, then squeeze in juice. Finely grate whole garlic…

1 NO LIGHTER FLUID, EVER If you want your coals to ignite quickly and efficiently, you don’t need smelly lighter fluid or “instant” briquettes—you just need a charcoal chimney. This metal tube creates a ventilated chamber that heats the charcoal evenly and keeps it corralled. Remove the grates from your grill, place the chimney inside, and shove a handful of newspaper underneath. Fill with charcoal, light the paper, and 15 to 20 minutes later you’re ready to cook. For longer grilling sessions, don’t wait until your coals are dead to fire up the chimney again—you’ll be ready for another in no time. Weber Rapidfire Chimney Starter, $17; lowes.com 2 Briquettes vs Hardwood Lump Wait…there are different kinds of charcoal? Like sandwiches or doctors’ offices or automobiles, this is not a…