Indholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2023 i Dazed & Confused

Welcome back to this new—2nd— issue of the Der Eigene magazine’s new life after being beautifully revamped by RIMOWA last year. RIMOWA decided to re-ignite the fire of Der Eigene’s torch, bringing the publication back to life and celebrating all queer identities coinciding with the month of June, in which the entire world claims the achievements of LGBTIQ+ Pride and the goals that remain to be reached. Two German legends—Rimowa and Der Eigene—join forces to support a fair cause, spotlighting the lives, works and creativity of different queer artists... and developing all this content with a list of all-queer contributors. A transversal group of professionals is putting together their efforts to make this journey an unforgettable experience for you, holding this magazine. Talking about pioneering, we’re proud to have Mel…

Der Eigene Issue nr.2 — June 2023 Editor in Chief Luis Venegas Design Kevin Maria Pedron Design Assistance Ornella Rondinella Editorial Coordination Victoria Batchi Victoria Renand Texts Miguel Figueroa Kacion Mayers Printed in France All rights reserved © RIMOWA, 2023 Brought to you by RIMOWA Hugues Bonnet-Masimbert Chief Executive Officer Emelie De Vitis Senior Vice-President Product & Marketing Lorenzo Garizio Head of Creative On the cover: Mel Odom, Carnivorous Lamb, 1984 Kira Bunse Angalis Field Miguel Figueroa Clifford Prince King Kacion Mayers Mel Odom Luis Venegas Diego Villarreal Anthony Battey Verene De Hutten Brayden Erik Ludwig Hurtado Lorena Infantes Prada Capri Jones Zoe Takala…

Drag just isn’t that serious an artform for Bailey J Mills. “For me, I think I’m more of a down than a drag queen,” floats the Lincoln-born viral comic over Zoom, fresh-faced and de-wigged after a day of self-care routines. They won’t even embrace the title of comedian, a rebuttal anyone familiar with their TikTok would certainly contest. But don’t take their denial too seriously - it’s just that they just can’t believe they’ve made a career out of having a laugh. Both allergic to glamour and well-versed in outsiderness, Mills is a prolific inventor of characters, a mimicry-proficient megahun raised on trash telly and cracking pop tunes. In the past year alone, they’ve imbibed the spirit of a flunky art student and rowdy pub landlord’s daughter, admitted to an…

OK, so you’re a Black millennial or Gen-Zer looking for a lit night in London. When you consider your options, Recess should be somewhere high on your list. I attended Recess for the first time in 2016 and it was sick. The vibe was thick with joy, the DJs were impeccable, the flow of the night was dynamic and free of lulls, strangers bonded with strangers - if you stopped and looked around, you could literally spot people forming core memories that would define their youth for years to come. There, I felt empowered and embraced by my community, and knew I’d found a place where I could do the only thing I want to do on a night out: enjoy life with my people. Since then, Recess has grown…

NEWYORK 40° 46’56.4672” -73° 58’55.3074” APRIL 10TH 2023 “Growing up, I wasn’t aware that there were boundaries between both sexes, and that was hugely freeing for me.” Mel Odom tells me during a quiet and rainy fall afternoon visit to his home and studio. A restricted “X and Y chromosome only” world is not visible in Odom’s work. His subjects and characters are defiant yet whimsical, masculine but feminine and womanly macho. To an untrained eye in the arts, they are, to put it simply, pretty. But underneath that thin veil of loveliness lies a careful and intricate study of styles and references that are etched, sketched, contoured and coloured. Instead of robbing our dreams, Odom shares his, giving his characters life through them. “I was just depicting what I…

The team and I always think far and wide in the initial stages of creating a new issue. Our imagination knows no bounds as we search for captivating global stories that define young people and the cultures we create and inhabit. It was no different in our last issue, yet somehow, we found ourselves circling closer to home and finding that some of the best stories were right under our noses. Naturally, I think this laid the groundwork for what would become our Homegrown Issue - a celebration of the names, faces and places right here in the UK. Stormzy is a Briton that represents the best of the country today. A Croydon talent from working-class roots, his honest and heartfelt rise from the city’s do-it-yourself grime scene to a…

ANIEFIOK EKPOUDOM Aniefiok AKA ‘Neef’is a journalist, author and broadcaster exploring British life today. He has worked with the likes of Netfiix, Google, the BBC and adidas, and his first book, Where We Come From: Rap, Home and Hope in Modern Britain, is out via Faber & Faber in January 2024 “Last year I read Tice Cin’s debut novel, Keeping the House, a beautiful, evocative and tender portrayal of Turkish-Cypriot family and community in north London. It follows a range of characters as they navigate the aches and joys of their city. From familial love and loss to the drug trade and PTSD, there is richness and a soulfulness in her writing. What struck me was the way Tice was so seamlessly able to break conventional narrative structure. The boldness…

LOCAL SOUNDS When our call connects, Lola Young is in the back seat of a car, inching through the early-morning Los Angeles traffic. She’s on her way to a photoshoot, using the vehicle as a sanctuary to carve time from her stacked schedule. When you’re as in-demand as Young, those welcome moments of in-betweenness are often snatched away. Despite a crowded diary and the burden it may carry, the singer is upbeat, candid and matter-of-fact. “A lot of people in LA don’t have a sense of humour,” she says drily in her south London drawl, the experience of many a Brit who finds themself adrift in a sea of cold-pressed kale and sunshine positivity. LA is a far cry from Britain’s capital, a city that fostered Young’s creative spirit. She…

& CONFUSED Dazed SUMMER ISSUE 08/06/2023 FURY erupted yesterday as footballing legend Gary Lineker spoke of his pride at his Leicester hometown for its proactive stance in welcoming migrants to the UK. In a clear breach of BBC impartiality rules, the outspoken MOTD star told snowflake fashion bible Dazed: “It was heartwarming to learn that Leicester Museum and Art Gallery has been recognised nationally for welcoming people who arrive in the city seeking refuge.” And if that isn’t enough to make you want to cancel your licence fee, you can read the full exclusive story on page 49.…

LOS ANGELES 34° 3’ 24.7674” -118° 21’49.0314” APRIL 2ND 2023 One of my worst fears is waking up one day and adopting a woefully nonchalant character that seems to be popping up all over our community. A series of unfortunate events are, undoubtedly, taking their toll in real-time. This stoicism hardens the exterior as a means of protection because softness, vulnerability, and ease are feelings not typically associated with the strength we need to get by on a day-to-day basis. It’s often remarked that we aren’t afforded the grace we require from others, yet we’re also innately dismissive of this grace within ourselves, I’ve found. The work of Clifford Prince King acts as a balm. It’s a resolution for those of us fortunate enough to lend a glance and share…

NINA MHACH DURBAN artist A member of Colours of Art School, the online art collective for people of colour, Nina’s work spans sculpture, found photography and other forms and explores the British-Asian experience, migration and the diaspora today. Her latest project, in collaboration with Athen Kardashian, drew on the pair’s Indian heritage to recreate the collages on their teenage bedroom walls. KEMKAAJOKU photographer “The idea of metaphorically telling a thousand words always fascinated me,” Enfield-born photographer Kemka once told It’s Nice That. Kemka first picked up a camera when he was just nine, and his interests in the machinations of his new toy led to a mechanical engineering degree. His gentle and inquisitive work explores the Black British experience, and how a single frame can tell a thousand stories. CHE…

In spring 2016, Sadiq Khan became mayor of London weeks before the UK voted to leave the European Union. Meanwhile, in my youth work in Brixton, south London, signs of a youth violence epidemic started to show. Thanks to the government’s divestment in public services including schools, youth clubs and the NHS since 2010, violence among young people would continue to rise, year-on-year, until the pandemic forced everyone indoors in 2020 (before soaring again from 2021). While the Conservatives blamed drill music, increasing policing powers and criminal sentences for knife carriers, Sadiq Khan established the London Violence Reduction Unit (VRU) at City Hall. The department treats violence as a ‘public health’ issue - a symptom of wider social breakdown by working to improve opportunities for young people. It is no…

“What’s the price of England now? With Salford falling apart” - words belted through my AirPods by Lancastrian musician and performance artist Blackhaine, from the title track of his 2021 EP And Salford Falls Apart. I’ve never set foot in Salford. Honestly, I’ve never been further north than Birmingham, but I feel him. The rage and confusion in his voice is eerily familiar, almost comforting - a reminder that I am not the only one who knows the vibes in England are off. Across the country in the late 1980s, the Young British Artists (YBAs) were linked by their capacity to provoke and interrogate a world on the cusp of a new millennium, various technological paradigm shifts and the internet. The group’s oeuvre includes Tracey Emin’s dishevelled “My Bed” (1998),…

The siren is a sound that pollutes the surrounding environment. It’s an unwanted noise designed to distress and put you on high alert. But when deployed in the right hands, it becomes a cultural weapon to shock and disrupt the status quo. For Manchester-born duo Space Afrika’s Joshua Inyang and Joshua Reid, sounds culled from sirens, static and even riots carry an unmistakable charge. Recontextualised, they create an affective dimension where tense and concrete forms morph and mutate freely through murky clublands, creating a strange and beautiful environment that embodies the lived experience of the city. Inspired by the visual and sonic aspects of industrialism, the duo makes music that alludes to these surroundings. “Ambient music can be a form of escapism that people listen to take themselves away from…

In Soviet Russia there was a common saying, “the worse the better”. Some people attribute its origin to Dostoevsky; certainly, it was popularised by Stalin. The idea behind the expression is that, the worse things get, the more likely people are to revolt and create systemic change for the better. Self: ‘I’m ASHAMED by how ignorant most Britons are about imperial atrocities' In fact, it suggests it is only when the proletariat are experiencing acute hardships that they even consider the possibility of rising up: the greatest gains come when you have nothing left to lose. If the revolution hasn’t happened yet, it is because life has not become bad enough to trigger proletariat desperation and violent bloodlust. By the end of the Soviet era, the saying had taken on…

There’s a moment in Annie Jones’s career that she calls “the turning point”. She had joined a small, family-run meat merchants in the Derby Road area of Ipswich for milk money at the age of 13, and was finally ready to butcher her first loin. Shop-owner George Debman - the kind of gentle surgeon general you see propping up any typical English meat counter - presented her with a pork steak to carefully bone and carve for the day’s service. Staring down, Annie felt an affinity with the steel work top decorated with bloodied ribs and marbled pig dorsal, realising, she recalls, that this was “finally where I am supposed to be”. Now 21, Annie is three weeks away from finishing an apprenticeship qualification at an Ipswich meat college when…

Dua Upa’s brow is furrowed, as if she is trying to crack a particularly knotty trigonometry problem. On a cloudy May afternoon, she stands behind a stately vintage mixing desk in Manhattan’s exclusive Jungle City Studios with folded arms and a wide stance as $40,000 speakers blast out her effervescent, currently unfinished, theme song for Barbie, Greta Gerwig’s DayGlo study of life in plastic. “I can take the heat / baby best believe, that’s the moment I shine,” she sings, her words punctuated by handclaps. With ribbony strings and bass that sizzles, it brilliantly deploys every rule in the disco-funk playbook to hit your hedonic hotspots with a sledgehammer. As the song unfurls, I follow her gaze through a window to the studio’s spacious live room - less of a…

On March 8,2023, professional boxer Ramla Ali sent a letter to UK prime minister Rishi Sunak. The text, which she shared publicly on her Instagram, read like more of a blow-by-blow takedown, with all the cool, detached ferocity of one of her fights: a barrage of sly jabs, nimble undercuts and sudden, devastating strikes. “Your legacy is already one that is marred by greed and selfishness,” Ali wrote. “[Your] plans are hurtful, cruel, immoral and ineffective and I will not stay silent on this matter.” Ali was referring to the Conservative party’s widely condemned illegal migration bill, which - at the time of writing - is nearing the final stages of approval in parliament. If it becomes law, the UK would effectively be banning asylum, leaving refugees without even the…

It will take Digga D about 20 minutes, give or take, to warm up to me. “Don’t take it personally,” says his publicist, remarking that he is, in general, a man of few words - though being clever and nasty and evocative with them is how he made a name, how his bread is buttered. When we first speak he’s in Trinidad, where the weather is so unrelentingly hot that, even in the shade of a sapodilla, the energy expended by a long conversation can make you feel light-headed. And so he is curt. (“It makes me money,” he says of his motivations.) He is evasive. (“When it started making me money,” of when he realised he was good.) He is brushing his shoulder-length twists from his face and moving…

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