Indholdsfortegnelse for Dec-2018 i Decanter

A month in wine Around the wine world St-Emilion 2012 classification allegations denied Bordeaux’s Tribunal de Grande Instance confirmed that investigations have been opened into Hubert de Boüard, co-owner of Château Angélus, and Philippe Castéja, director of one of the region’s principal négociant houses, Borie-Manoux. The move in September followed accusations that the two men influenced the 2012 St-Emilion classification in their favour, while acting as representatives of INAO, the French National Institute of Origin and Quality. Reports said the investigation centred on suspicion of ‘prise illégale d’intérêts’, relating to cases where personal interest conflicts with a public role. The charge carries a maximum prison sentence of five years and potential fines up to €500,000. De Boüard told police he had not taken part in the INAO deliberations relating to…

Letter of the month A little knowledge… NEWS OF ALEXA providing wine and food pairings (‘A month in wine’, November 2018) is concerning. Correct me if I’m wrong, but wine and food pairing goes far beyond ‘steak and Malbec’. There are many other aspects to consider: what cut of steak? Are you having any sauce? Where is the Malbec from? And what age? As a trainee sommelier, it frustrates me. The app will give zero regard to personal taste and, if it’s not mentioning brands, a consumer would most likely pick up the cheapest bottle in the supermarket! Which, frankly, goes with nothing (except maybe a cooking sauce). I fear this app could create a bunch of big-headed people who pretend to know what they’re talking about when, in reality,…

Hugh Johnson ‘Curiosity drives me to taste every English bubbly I come across’ I STOOD IN the vines pinching myself, one hour west of London, counting the crop of perfectly ripe Pinot Noir in a Marlow vineyard. Marlow? Appellation Thames Valley? I still can’t get used to the idea, or rather the fact, that the south of England has produced a huge and near-perfect crop of incipient bubbly. I’ve been a Champagne addict for half a century. My deliveries go back to 1959. I’ve often described my favourite White Foil as ‘mother’s milk’. Now my loyalty is wobbling: sheer curiosity drives me to taste every English bubbly I come across. Curiosity, and local pride, patriotism, chauvinism – call it what you like. I appreciate acidity in everything I drink. My…

WINEMAKING Big and beautiful In the eye of the beholder? Lean, zippy styles may be the zeitgeist. But, argues Andrew Jefford, there are great terroirs all over the world which naturally produce wines that are rich, ripe, full and fine. Don’t miss out TORONTO’S PEARSON AIRPORT, January 2014; my first steps on Canadian soil. The immigration officer wanted to know why I’d come. Wine, I said. He relaxed a little, looking up from his screen. We chatted some more. ‘You wanna know the definition of a good wine?’ That, I replied in all honesty, would be very helpful to me. ‘A good wine,’ he said, fixing me with a professionally unwavering gaze, ‘is one that says 14.5% or more on the label.’ Perhaps you’re smiling; perhaps you’re rolling your eyes.…

Anson’s pick: Bordeaux 1989 vs 1990 – Left Bank Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien 1989 92 £132.67 (ib)-£155 Christopher Piper, Corkr, Crump Richmond Shaw, Friarwood, Roberson, Top Selection A lovely, classic example of a fully mature St-Julien, replete with ripe berry fruits and tannins that whisper rather than shout. You’re pulling up a chair right by the fireside here, where the embers are still warm. Coffee, cedar and sandalwood take the lead over brambly black fruits. This is lovely, but unquestionably fully evolved and open. Drink 2018-2028 Alcohol 13% Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien 1990 94 £124.58 (ib)-£252.99 Corkr, Christopher Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Hedonism, Jeroboams, Lay & Wheeler, Richard Kihl, Top Selection, T Wright Damien Barton-Sartorius was born in 1990, and he’ll be happy to hear that this vintage stands up…

Key dates 1780 At 22 years old, Jean Baptiste Patriarche founded his own wine business and later the House of Patriarche Père & Fils in Beaune. He bought the Visitandines Convent in Beaune (the company’s current headquarters) and later exported his wines to Great Britain, the Netherlands and Belgium. 1940 André Boisseaux, both a visionary and marketing genius, made Patriarche one of Burgundy’s leading wine houses. He focused on creating top brands that continue to meet success today. 2018 Patriarche exports 1,160,000 12-bottle cases to more than 80 countries.…

The wines Dievole Novecento Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2015 An ethereal bouquet of violet nuances and ripe red fruit in this quintessential Riserva that represents over 900 years of history at Dievole. Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 Refined for 38 months in French oak barrels and 6 months in bottle, this Brunello di Montalcino DOCG speaks of ageworthy vigour and accessible elegance. Tenuta Meraviglia Rosso Bolgheri DOC 2016 This full-bodied but breezy Cabernet blend is the perfect expression of the Tuscan coast with its seductive scents and saline finish.…

Vintage report Port 2016 Richard Mayson evaluates a year in which quantities were small, but the best wines are balanced and look set to age for decades ‘WE HAVE BEEN spoilt for choice’. These were the words of Johnny Symington at the launch of the 2016 Port vintage in May this year. He was reflecting on the past three harvests in the Douro Valley, which have put the Port shippers in something of a quandary. The 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages have all been remarkable in their own way, and it is a function of the manner in which vintage Port is ‘declared’ that the shippers are allowed some foresight and hindsight before making their final decision. It is worth emphasising that Port vintages do not have the regularity of…

CAVA Cava: my top 10 With the introduction of a new top-tier classification for Cava in 2017, there’s been a renewed focus on quality for Spain’s sparkling wines. From boutique wineries carving a niche to established names pushing boundaries, Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW highlights his pick of the premium producers and recommends top wines to try Agustí Torelló Mata Photograph: Marçal Font – Recaredo Embodying much of Cava’s history, Agustí Torelló Mata is a nephew of the Torelló family of Cavas Torelló and the Mata family of Recaredo. He has previously managed some of the most traditional Cava wineries, and established the Cava Brotherhood. Also founder of the oenological lab in Penedès, Torelló Mata is something of an essential reference point for Cava. Despite having extensive knowledge of Champagne, he…

How do you make Amarone? You start, of course, with the harvest, already carefully picking the best grapes, which are placed in a single layer in small 4/5 kg crates. These are then stacked in a shed called “fruttaio” – with a further selection of the grapes, removing the bunches that have been damaged due to transport or excessive size or are not perfectly ripe – and left there for approximately three months for the raisining process. When the three months have passed, a further check is made on the health of the fruit and any bunches of grapes that are not perfectly dried or present abnormal moulds or mildew are eliminated. At this point the grapes are crushed and fermented in special steel tanks. Finally, after fermentation, the Amarone…

Anson’s pick: the best of Château l’Evangile Château L’Evangile, Pomerol 2005 99 £166.50 (ib)-£290 Corkr, Cru World Wine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Friarwood, Justerini & Brooks, Wilkinson Vintners 85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 70% new oak. A near-perfect growing season, and this approaches perfection as it glides across the palate, with sweet fig and torrefied notes, salted caramel and saline. Utterly gorgeous. Could be drunk with huge pleasure right now – with an amazing balance and feather-like expression that lifts the whole thing up – but there’s no rush. Drink 2018-2038 Alcohol 13.5% Château L’Evangile, Pomerol 2009 98 £250-£340 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, BI, Corney & Barrow, Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Grand Vin, Wilkinson Vintners 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. A…

Ventoux: six names to know Château Pesquié Affable brothers Fred and Alex Chaudière are the third generation to run Château Pesquié, a sizeable traditional Provençale bastide property at the foot of Mont Ventoux. Their parents were pioneers of the Ventoux revolution, leaving the local co-op in 1989 to make their own wines. Back then there were fewer than 10 independent wineries; now there are nearly 140. At more than 100ha, Pesquié is the largest, and has just been certified organic. It has a highly differentiated range of bold, intense, attention-grabbing wines that express the various aspects of their high-altitude terroir. Its opulent whites and ageworthy reds are among the most impressive in Ventoux. Château Unang Nestled at the end of the Nesque Valley near the pretty village of Malemort-du-Comtat lies…

SPONSORED GUIDE Rosso at the table Sommeliers at top Italian restaurants explain why Rosso di Montalcino is a great choice to go with typically Tuscan dishes Montalcino is a small hillside town with fewer than 6,000 inhabitants, yet it’s surrounded by some of Tuscany’s choicest vineyards – namely those of the Sangiovese sibling rivals Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino. For many years, Rosso di Montalcino wines have played second fiddle to bigger, bolder and more cellarworthy Brunellos. But in the restaurant trade, there are many who argue that Rosso should be judged on its own merits as a source of versatile, vibrant wines with their own distinctive expression of the Sangiovese Grosso grape. ‘Rosso di Montalcino doesn’t have to live in the shadow of its big brother,’ says…

25 Under £25 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Booths, English Sparkling, Sussex, England 2016 92 £21 Booths Made by Sussex-based Ridgeview, this rich yet elegant own-brand bubbly is a worthy DWWA 2018 Silver-medal winner, boasting toasty, leesy characters that add complexity to its juicy, crisp green apple flavours and delicate blossom notes. Stock up now ahead of the festive season. Alc 12% Domaine de la Pépière, Clos des Briords, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie, Loire, France 2017 92 £18 Les Caves de Pyrene, The Good Wine Shop A savoury, saline,…

panel tasting The summary Judges were pleasantly surprised at the quality and breadth of character on display here, particularly among the smaller houses and growers, reports Andy Howard MW WITH ONLY ONE Outstanding score out of 79 wines tasted, this might seem a rather mediocre result for the world’s leading producer of sparkling wines. The tasting panel included Simon Field MW and David Vareille, who are both very familiar with the region, as well as the likely variability in this category. The term ‘value’ Champagne made Field anxious about ‘tart, thin and uninspiring wines, devoid of personality, either gaunt and mean, or made-up with sugar’. Vareille was also concerned, and although he went into the tasting room ‘with low expectations’, he felt there were many ‘surprises’. The tasting encompassed a…

panel tasting Highly Recommended 90–94pts Lopez-Martin, Blason d’Argent Brut NV 94 SF 94 AH 94 DV 94 £40 Finest Fizz A classic, steely style of Champagne, with roasted almond and pear aromas leading to a lemon meringue-infused mousse and elegant bubbles. Long – and with impressive gravitas. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12% Alfred Gratien, Brut NV 91 SF 94 AH 90 DV 90 £35.05-£38 Enotria&Coe, Exel, Gray’s Deli, Great Western Wine Fulsome bubbles, hints of coconut and tropical fruit. Oaky, yeasty and quite rich; a little ‘manufactured’ perhaps, but successful overall and will appeal to many. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12% ‘Grower Champagnes performed generally well in the tasting. There are some fine examples that have character, complexity and the attributes one would associate with high-quality sparkling wine’ Andy Howard MW…

Panel tasting The summary Though no wines wowed, our judges found a good range of full-bodied reds, spanning reliably traditional and more modern styles. James Lawther MW reports THE PROSPECT OF two leading lights in the Languedoc, Minervois La Livinière and Terrasses du Larzac, going head to head over two notable years, 2016 and 2015, gave an air of expectancy to this tasting. The judges’ enthusiasm was palpable, hence the disappointment with the results at the end of the day. The highlights just seemed wanting; the upshot being an absence of any Outstanding or Exceptional wines in either category. Were the judges over-expectant? Seventeen Highly Recommended (nearly a third of the wines tasted), with almost two-thirds Recommended is an honourable score, but it was the ultimate lack of excitement that…

My perfect day in QUebrada de HUMaHUaca Morning After a light breakfast at Villa del Cielo in Tilcara (www.villadelcielotilcara.com) to help cope with the altitude, drive north for half an hour to meet winemaker Claudio Zucchino near Uquía (see p139). Visit his Finca Moya, the world’s highest vineyard at 3,329m above sea level. The bumpy but exhilarating 90-minute vertical excursion is only possible in a 4x4 and is astounding. With your head in the clouds, sample his wines with local charcuterie (£61) and astounding views of the Quebrada at Mina Moya, a former mine turned wine cellar. Lunch Head to Los Morteros* in Purmamarca, first stopping off at the Museo en los Cerros (www.museoenloscerros.com.ar), an adorable photography museum tucked away in Huichaira and curated by Lucio Boschi. Try empanadas with…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Mature Aussie fortified I have this bottle, but can’t see any bin details. Can you tell me more about it? Mach Dinh-Vu, by email Anthony Rose replies: The label itself provides more useful information than you’ll find on your average vintage Port from the Douro. But then this is not from the Douro – rather from New South Wales in Australia, and made mainly from Shiraz. Treasury Wine Estates’ regional winemaker Wayne Falkenberg confirms that this wine was made by Ron Prince at the Lindemans Corowa Winery, which has since closed. It was made from a blend of Shiraz and Grand Noir fruit grown on Lindemans’ Felton and Southern Cross vineyards, which are…

John Stimpf ig ‘In between two remarkable bookends is a roll call of fine wine titans’ AFTER 34 YEARS service, Decanter is retiring its hugely prestigious Man or Woman of the Year accolade. From 2019, it will become the Decanter Hall of Fame Award. Back in 1984, the first ever Man of the Year was the late, great Serge Hochar, who put Chateau Musar and the wines of Lebanon on the world map. The most recent and now last ever recipient is Eduardo Chadwick, who did the same for Errazuriz, and Chile. In between those two remarkable bookends is a roll call of yet more fine wine titans including Bob Mondavi, Emile Peynaud, Miguel Torres, Len Evans, Piero Antinori and Nicolás Catena. All of them have quite literally changed the…

In brief ■ England’s bumper 2018 vintage has caused storage challenges for some UK winemakers. Charles Simpson of Simpsons Wine Estate in Kent said his team were ‘desperately trying to find more tanks’. He also urged the English wine industry to work more collaboratively in order to cope with a ‘scale problem’ in many UK wineries, highlighted by this year’s increased yields. ■ Bodegas Torres has opened a new winery in Catalonia’s Costers del Segre DO to provide a permanent home for its Purgatori wine, a blend of Cariñena, Garnacha and Syrah. Named Desterrats, the estate dates back to 1770 and was once owned by Montserrat Abbey. ■ English sparkling wine producer Nyetimber has launched its 1086 range, aiming to rival prestige cuvée Champagne. The white 2009 and rosé 2010…

Andrew Jefford ‘Wine’s complexity replicates that delivered by cooked foods’ IS THERE SOME fundamental difference between the flavours of wine and those of food? This question has long nagged me. If there isn’t, why does wine have such a hold over us? Why do fine wines sell at the prices they do? Why are there wine auctions, wine libraries, wine tastings and wine cellars? Why, indeed, does this magazine exist? There’s no equivalent for fish, meat or vegetables, though these items are no less diverse and are still more widely consumed than wine. Alcohol is an answer. Other alcoholic beverages, though, don’t command equivalent attention, even if whisky comes close. We have to go back to flavour (and remember that this also means aroma: a continuum, perceived in different ways).…

EVENTS Decanter Retailer Awards 2018 It was party time at the OXO2 Tower Wharf in London, as the wine trade gathered to celebrate the achievements of the UK’s best and most innovative wine merchants. Chair of judges Peter Richards MW was our genial host 1 Douglas Wood of WoodWinters Wines & Whiskies with guest Julia Liewald 2 Decanter Retailer Awards chairman Peter Richards (centre) with The Wine Society’s Liz Cerroti and Pierre Mansour 3 Fraser Wotzke of Harrods (left) with Decanter content director John Stimpfig 4 Jody Langrish (left), James Benn and Natalie Holder from Z&B Vintners/The Vinorium 5 Vilarnau, Pazos de Lusco and Finca Constancia wines were kindly provided by González Byass UK 6 Decanter’s Natalie Earl enjoys musical accompaniment provided by The Wandering Hands band 7 Keelan McCafferty…

Jefford’s pick: 10 top wines that are big, balanced and delicious Domaine André et Mireille Tissot, Château-Chalon, Jura, France 2010 97 N/A UK www.stephane-tissot.com An outlier in my ‘generous 10’, perhaps – but I defy anyone to taste this aromatically complex, hugely energetic vin jaune and not find it fresh, entrancing, vivacious: all those things which 15% wines are not meant to be. The only ‘warmth’ is an umami hint. Drink 2018-2026 Alcohol 15% Dal Forno Romano, Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy 2011 99 £182.50 Fine & Rare The strongest wine in selection, yet this magnificent Amarone’s alcohol is barely visible thanks to its astonishing depth, texture and sumptuousness. Pressed black fruits seep with fruit essences; smoke and cinders; herbal complexities; teasing floral notes, all engraved into a…

Anson’s pick: Bordeaux 1989 vs 1990 – Right Bank Château Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion 1989 98 £386-£440 (ib) Christopher Keiller, Corkr, Crump Richmond Shaw, Top Selection Cheval Blanc saw 25% less rainfall than average in this vintage. Summer was hot but not a heatwave – the grapes were brought in from 7 September to 5 October, the earliest harvest date in the 20th century, and there are clear hints of prune and fig, but with menthol and eucalyptus touches that give it a fresh lift and suggest that blockages of maturity just might have been the key to its longevity. Concentrated, sexy, opulent, lifted through the finish, just smoky enough. The blend, by the way, is not exact because Cabernet Sauvignon was counted with the Cabernet Franc right up until 2014.…

WINE DISCOVERY 10 wines to try before you die To celebrate the publication of her latest book, 101 Wines to Try Before You Die, Margaret Rand recommends a selection of offbeat bottles that no wine lover should miss IT’S A WONDERFUL feeling, when wine across the world begins to turn in the right direction. By which I mean, of course, the direction I think is right: balance, transparency, poise and precision. Apart from a few dinosaurs of the wine world, we’re seeing the back of over-oaking and overripeness; producers in many areas are seeking ways of bringing down excessive sugar levels. ‘Everybody knows about Latour and Lafite. You don’t need me to tell you they’re good’ Narrowing the wines of the world to just 101 for my book was therefore…

The Decanter interview Paul Hobbs Described as ‘the Steve Jobs of wine’, this busy consultant winemaker has a hand in projects across four continents. Peter Richards MW catches up with him to discuss his career, influences and winemaking style SPACE. THAT’S WHERE Paul Hobbs was initially destined. A child of the 1960s, he loved maths, chemistry and physics. ‘I passionately wanted to become an astronaut,’ he recounts. But the doctor put paid to any flying aspirations with an abrupt diagnosis of amblyopia, or lazy eye. ‘I was crushed, crestfallen. At 16, I had to figure out what to do. So I took another approach.’ Challenges, and overcoming them, are an intriguing part of his story. No one gets to the top tier of their profession –…

Mayson’s pick: 25 top 2016 vintage Ports Wines listed by score, then in alphabetical order by producer Graham’s, The Stone Terraces 99 £106.67 (ib) Cru, IG Wines, Jeroboams, Montrachet Fine Wine, Wineye Mostly Touriga Nacional from stone-walled terraces at Quinta dos Malvedos, Graham’s flagship estate. While closed on the nose, there is a hint of liquorice and dark chocolate. Big and dense on the palate, it shows a dark chocolate intensity and broad tannins rising to a massive peacock’s tail of a finish. An absolute ‘wow’ of a wine, this is made in tiny quantities, but it has been fabulous every time I’ve tasted it. This has to be the wine of the vintage – if you can get hold of a bottle. Drink 2035-2055 Alc 20% Quinta do Noval,…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Bodegas Faustino Essentially the founding father of Faustino, Eleuterio Martinez Arzok was a man with plenty of plans and an abundance of ambition when, in 1861, he acquired a manor house and its attached vineyards in the Rioja municipality of Oion. Regrettably his aspirations were doomed to fail, as no amount of foresight could have predicted the tide of phylloxera which would soon decimate great tracts of European vineyards. Nonetheless, this family-owned concern endured and in 1920 Faustino Martinez Pérez de Albéniz began to re-establish the wrecked vineyards alongside his father. Today Faustino operates 650ha of prime Rioja Alavesa vineyards, and the fruits of its labour are enjoyed in over 100 countries around the globe. In Faustino I, it can also lay claim to making the world’s biggest…

Walls’ pick: a dozen great Ventoux buys Domaine Vintur, Cuvée Séléné, Edition Luna 2014 94 £19.95 www.vintur.fr Grown on clay-limestone soils at 130m, and aged for two years in second-use barrels. The oak is fully integrated into the quince fruit, lending vanilla fudge and nougat notes. A gastronomic style, showing body, texture and energy in a wine that demonstrates the ageworthiness of top-quality white from Ventoux. Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 13.5% Chêne Bleu, Rosé 2017 90 £16.60 Justerini & Brooks From vines grown at 550m. With its pale salmon pink colour, this has attractive aromatics between fruit and flowers, with an extra savoury dimension. The rich mouthfeel is cut through with glistening Ventoux acidity, leading on to a lengthy finish. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 14% St Jean du Barroux, La Pierre Noire…

Rosso di Montalcino: the facts • 100% Sangiovese red wine from the municipality of Montalcino in central Tuscany • No oak ageing required • DOC since 1983. Yields can be 10% higher than for Brunello di Montalcino DOCG • Production (2016): 3.82 million bottles [28,646hl] from 501 hectares – one-fifth the surface area of Brunello, whose planted vineyard area [also 100% Sangiovese] is four times the size at 1,979ha, but 10% lower yielding Data from the 2016 vintage (Source: Consorzio di Montalcino)…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Man of the Year hand-picks fine wines for drinking now and recommends others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards From the cellar Jim Barry, The Armagh 2000 In the hall of Australian wine fame, there are certain names that rise above others, and Jim Barry (1925-2004) is one. With an oenology diploma from South Australia’s Roseworthy College in 1947, he was put in charge of the local co-op that produced mostly fortifieds and ‘stickies’ (aka sweet wines). In 1968 he planted a 3ha patch of vines and set up a nursery propagating Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Malbec, offering cuttings free of charge. Today the family farms 300ha. Sam Barry, one of three grandchildren, was in…

The judges Simon Field MW Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than 20 years and now consults on areas that particularly interested him during that time, with the Rhône, Languedoc and Champagne topping the list in France, and Spain and the fortified category also featuring prominently. My top three ■ André Jacquart, Expérience Blanc de Blancs Brut 1er Cru Brut NV Not to be confused with the large co-op, André Jacquart makes exemplary Chardonnay Champagnes in the villages of Vertus and Le Mesnil. The marriage of oak with a steely freshness is absolutely textbook and the wine is exceptional value! 95 Drink 2018-2022 ■ Lopez-Martin, Blason d’Argent Brut NV New to me, this grower is based in Hautvillers, home of Dom Pérignon no less. Despite…

The judges Simon Field MW NB: the tasters’ top wines are not necessarily their top-scoring, rather those which, on learningthe wines’ identity, they feel are the most notable given their provenance, price or other factors Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than two decades. He now works as a consultant in areas which particularly interested him during that time, with the Rhône, Languedoc and Champagne topping the list in France, and Spain and the fortified category also featuring prominently. My top three ■ Château Capion, Le Chemin des Garennes, Terrasses du Larzac 2016 The times are a-changing at Capion it seems, and this is a far cry from the varietal domination I recall from way-back-when; changes all for the best judging by this lifted and…

expert’s choice Chablis 2017 Severe frosts slashing yields made this a year many producers would prefer to forget. Nevertheless, the best wines are surprisingly fresh and taut, reports Tim Atkin MW CHABLIS, A REGION used to freezing temperatures, suffered terribly between 18 and 29 April 2017, as a series of black frosts descended from the north. ‘In 30 years, I’ve never seen vines in the high part of the Valmur grand cru hit like that,’ says Jean-Claude Bessin of his eponymous domaine. Vineyards on the right bank of the River Serein suffered worse than those on the left, but what was unusual about the frosts was that they didn’t just hit low-lying areas. All grands crus were affected to a greater or lesser extent, as were the top premiers crus…

YoUr QUebrada de HUmaHUaca address book ACCOMMODATION Casa Colorada A charming, 10-room mountain lodge built from local stone and nestled 3,200m above sea level near Tilcara. The remote location ensures a total disconnect. Trekking, birdwatching and horse riding are available; though kicking back with a glass of Quebrada Malbec is equally pleasurable. www.casacolorada.com.ar El Manantial del Silencio A warm, colonial-style, 18-room lodge, located close to Purmamarca’s authentic Plaza 9 de Julio. Enjoy stunning vistas of the Siete Colores from the indoor jacuzzi. Book into the restaurant to sample chef Sergio Latorre’s detailed Andean cuisine. www.hotelmanantialdelsilencio.com Hotel Huacalera This 1940s-built, state-run hotel close to the Tropic of Capricorn underwent a substantial facelift when it was reopened in 2009. Contemporary Andean design and comfortable king-size beds are the norm, as are llamas…

Tasting notes decoded Oyster shell Few of us will have taken a bite out of an oyster shell instead of its edible innards. But if you have ever shucked one of these premium shellfish you will likely have come into contact with the smell, taste and texture of its calcified casing. Oyster shells are predominantly made of gritty or powdery calcium carbonate that was secreted by the oyster over time. In this sense, ‘oyster shell’ describes a mineral character, perhaps with some savoury qualities, salinity or a chalky mouthfeel and flavour. The term is a source of some debate among wine critics, but it broadly applies to dry, less fruit-forward wines that hail from cooler climes and have high levels of acidity. Cool-climate, unoaked Chardonnay styles commonly express mineral notes,…

Latest Grange vintage offers early approachability Graph: Liv-ex. Photograph: Montager Productions Ltd/Alamy Penfolds has released its latest collection of top-end wines, including Grange 2014 – the 64th consecutive vintage of this flagship wine. Wine writer Anthony Rose, who attended the launch and tasted the wines for Decanter, awarded 97 points to the Grange 2014. ‘As the tannins appear to be softer, juicier and more approachable than previous, more ‘classic’ Granges at this stage, the voluptuousness presages well for excellent medium- to long-term drinking, starting in the next couple of years,’ Rose said of the wine, a blend of 98% Shiraz and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Reviews of all the latest release Penfolds Collection wines are available online at www.decanter.com/premium.…

Wine Legends Louis Roederer, Cristal 1959 Champagne, France A legend because… Created in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II, a great admirer of and customer for Roederer wines, this Champagne remains universally recognised due to its presentation in a clear bottle, cellophane-wrapped to protect it further. The wine created for the tsar is remote from the modern incarnation, as it was extremely sweet. The unique packaging was patented in 1928, when the brand, which ceased production after the Russian Revolution, was revived as a prestige cuvée. It is rare for any vintage of Cristal to disappoint, given the scrupulous attention paid to quality and balance before the Champagne is declared and released. The 1959 is clearly exceptional, and so too were past vintages such as 1949, 1955, 1962 and 1964. Looking…

Jane Anson ‘The trickle of international wines sold through La Place has become a flood’ A FEW WEEKS ago I was in Le Pressoir d’Argent restaurant in downtown Bordeaux, headed up by English Michelin-starred chef Gordon Ramsay, tasting through iconic Chilean wines (Seña, Vinedo Chadwick) that were about to be sold by French wine merchants through the local La Place de Bordeaux trading system. September has become one of the most interesting months of the year around here, as the trickle of international wines being sold through La Place has become a flood. There is quite clearly no turning back now. Gone are the days when Bordeaux châteaux owners (one in particular, but I’m not one to gossip) threw their toys out of the pram and threatened to remove their…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Patriarche Pere & Fils A Great Burgundy House From sipping sparkling in business class to tasting exceptional reds and whites inside Burgundy’s largest underground cellar! Founded in Beaune in 1780 by Jean-Baptiste Patriarche, Patriarche Père & Fils is one of the oldest negociants in Burgundy. In 1796 he acquired the Convent of the Visitandines. 222 years later, Patriarche welcomes 45,000 visitors per year in its underground cellars – with 5 km of tunnels – of which some date back to the 13th century. The company’s headquarters are still hosted at this historical site! From the start Patriarche has exported Burgundy wines all around the world. Today the company’s wines are sold in more than 80 countries, on all continents. USA, Canada, Japan, United Kingdom and Sweden are among…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards in Italy Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Bolgheri: three regions, one philosophy Perhaps the most exciting wine estate in this region right now” is how Dievole was described in Decanter’s Italy 2017 special. These words ring truer than ever as the historic Chianti Classico wine resort acts as the springboard for a far-reaching project by the Alejandro Bulgheroni Family Vineyards (ABFV) Italy group. From Chianti Classico to Montalcino and Bolgheri, ABFV is investing considerably in Tuscany, putting sustainable practices first and returning to centuries-old techniques in the cellar. What began as a worldwide olive oil project in 2012 quickly expanded to other areas with agronomist Lorenzo Bernini proving fundamental to the volte-face at Dievole, overhauling the vineyards according to an organic change of pace, keeping…

Paul Hobbs at a glance Born 1953, Buffalo, New York State Education BSc in Chemistry (University of Notre Dame, 1975); MSc in Viticulture and Oenology (UC Davis, 1978) Career Robert Mondavi Winery, Opus One, Simi Winery, multiple consultancies Core winemaking projects Paul Hobbs Winery (California, established 1991), Viña Cobos (Argentina, 1998), CrossBarn (California, 2000), Yacoubian-Hobbs (Armenia, 2008), Crocus (Cahors, 2011), Hillick & Hobbs (New York, 2013), untitled Ribeira Sacra project (2017) Family Two daughters, Sophia and Louisa, with his wife Cristina; one daughter, Agustina, from his first marriage…

Vintage guide: Port since 1997 2015 4/5 Very nearly outstanding. Limited declaration, mostly single quinta wines. Niepoort and Ramos Pinto declared over 2016. Keep 2011 5/5 Universally declared, outstanding wines with poise and finesse that will keep for life. Approach from 2025. Keep 2009 4/5 Hot year; ripe, opulent wines. Limited declaration. Taylor, Fonseca, Croft and Warre declared. Drink medium to long term. Keep 2007 4/5 Generally declared. Cool growing season produced wines with great purity and definition. Drink from the early 2020s. Keep 2003 5/5 Long hot summer; ripe, voluptuous wines. Some already on the cusp of being ready to drink, others need 10 more years. Generally declared. Keep/soon 2000 5/5 Small harvest produced fine, concentrated wines. Universally declared. Drink from 2020, the best will last a lifetime. Keep/soon…

Tenuta Sant’Antonio’s Amarone wines Campo dei Gigli – Amarone della Valpolicella The wine with most awards from the best international juries. The oldest vineyard is dedicated to the lily, the flower that symbolises Tenuta Sant’Antonio. A single vine grows in that vineyard, giving a unique wine. Its flavour is balanced, very intense, with a lingering robust body, to be drunk at least 5 years after harvesting. The aroma speaks of wild fruits, woody hints and mineral tones with aromas of liquorice, black pepper, tobacco, spices and chocolate. Selezione Antonio Castagendi – Amarone della Valpolicella A family tradition, a wine that tells a story. Antonio Castagnedi loves his family and the good wine of his land. This is dedicated to him and to his love. This wine’s flavour is well balanced,…

L’Evangile – a timeline 1741 Estate founded by the Léglise family under the name Fazilleau 1798 Pierre-Raymond Isambert purchases the estate, changes name to L’Evangile 1862 Estate bought by négociant Paul Chaperon 1874 Current château building designed by architect Charles Lallemand 1930s Jean-Paul Ducasse killed during World War II. His son Louis takes over the business, becomes a prisoner-of-war, so his wife Simone manages L’Evangile, initially with other family members 1957 Simone and Louis Ducasse take sole charge of L’Evangile 1982 Louis Ducasse dies just before harvest, having recommended that Simone hire Michel Rolland (above) 1990 Simone Ducasse sells a 70% stake of L’Evangile to DBR (Lafite), remaining at the estate after the sale 1998 DBR (Lafite) assumes full ownership, with the property standing at 16ha 2000 Simone Ducasse dies…

SPONSORED GUIDE 30 great Rosso buys Monty Waldin tasted through an extensive line-up of recent-release Rosso di Montalcinos. Here he presents his top-scoring wines This was an incredibly enjoyable tasting for two reasons. The first is that the bulk of these Rosso di Montalcino DOC wines (which must be 100% Sangiovese under the DOC rules) came from 2016, a cracking vintage in Montalcino that provided clean, ripe, juicy Sangiovese grapes whose wines display a lovely inner freshness – crunchy, mouthwatering and moreish – allied to some really classy and smooth tannins. The second is the nature of Rosso itself. Unlike its ‘big brother’ Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino does not have to spend even a nanosecond in oak, whereas Brunello must spend 24 months in oak (36 for riserva). So much…

Champagne: know your vintages 2013 A very late harvest. Quality is variable between different areas, but the best wines are very promising. 2012 A wonderful vintage with richness, density and very healthy grapes from low yields. High acidity will promote long ageing for vintage. 2011 This was a very difficult – and early – harvest, with few Champagne houses likely to produce a vintage wine. 2010 Heavy August rain led to a generally poor vintage with few high-quality wines. 2009 Variable quality; richness and approachability evident in the best wines. Lacks the drive of 2008 and 2012 but there are some very drinkable wines. 2008 A great vintage: concentration, purity and wonderful balancing acidity. Can be enjoyed while young, but the best will keep for many years.…

Outstanding 95–97pts André Jacquart, Expérience Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru Brut NV Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 95 Andy Howard MW 95 David Vareille 95 £39.95 Huntsworth Wine, Thirty-Nine 10, Top Selection For four generations, the Jacquart family were just growers – selling all their grapes – until 1958 when André Jacquart began to bottle his own Champagne. Now headed by his granddaughter Marie Doyard, the business is based in the village of Vertus, in the Côte des Blancs; three-quarters of the family's 24ha of vineyard is here, while the remainder in the Vallée de la Marne and L’Aube provide their Pinots Noir and Meunier. With such a high proportion of Chardonnay, the family has long specialised in blanc de blancs and are unusual in…

Languedoc reds: know your vintages 2017 Frost in some areas. Hot, dry summer. Low yields but quality satisfactory. Will open sooner than 2016. 2016 Hot and dry but cool nights. Concentrated wines with marked acidity. Potential for ageing. Low volume. 2015 Warm and dry, but rain when needed. Balanced wines. Quality and quantity. 2014 Hail in parts. Drosophila suzukii fruit fly was also a problem. Mixed results. 2013 Coulure in the Grenache. Later harvest. Carignan, Syrah and Mourvèdre fared best. 2012 A difficult year, with some mildew then a hot, dry summer resulting in uneven ripening. Better in Minervois La Livinière.…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Mas des Brousses, Terrasses du Larzac 2016 Decanter average score: 94/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 94 Justin Howard-Sneyd MW 93 James Lawther MW 94 £19.95 Stone Vine & Sun Complex and finely etched, with a minty dark fruit aroma ceding to a firm and layered yet rounded and refined palate. A wine that’s full of resonance, and has ageing potential. Drink 2019-2023 Alcohol 14% Clos du Prieur, Terrasses du Larzac 2016 92 SF 94 JHS 92 JL 90 N/A UK www.closduprieur.fr Exuberant in character yet elegant and finely crafted. Opens with red fruit aromatics leading to a less ripe, cooler-climate palate that delivers an intriguing herbal complexity. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14% Château Capion, Le Chemin des Garennes, Terrasses du Larzac 2016 93 SF 94…

Ian Dai My Shanghai Explore the increasingly sophisticated food and drink scene in this vibrant and cosmopolitan city at the mouth of the Yangtze river. Ian Dai shares his tips on the best restaurants and bars to visit WHENEVER I’VE VISITED Hong Kong in the last few years, I’ve been to a French bistro called La Cabane. It offers top-quality cider, as well as wines from the Jura, the Loire and even natural wines from all over the world. Such diverse choice was once the envy of wine lovers in Shanghai like me – we thought restaurants like La Cabane could never take root in Shanghai. But things have been changing fast during the last few years… In 2018, a restaurant called Le Bec Boutique opened in Shanghai, offering a…