Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2019 i Decanter

A timely article from Rupert Joy on the environmental impact of the wine industry (July 2019). Initiatives such as reducing water waste, lowering emissions, reducing pesticides and improving soil quality are commendable and likely to be easier for consumers to support than moves to increase pricing or even a switch to lighter bottles. Consumers are not deaf to the calls of the environmental lobby, but initiatives that compromise drinking pleasure may be a hard sell. I feel this article missed an obvious way in which both consumers and the environment can benefit. Drink local! Winemaking expertise and the number of vineyards in the UK have soared and quality continues to improve. No one wants to forfeit the pleasures of Rioja, Chianti or Provence rosé, but surely given the challenges posed…

Since its birth in 1964, Champagne Jacquart has nurtured and cemented a reputation for its expansive network of growers and their vineyards, encapsulated by its Mosaique range which pulls together all these individual strands of Champagne to form an all-encompassing portrayal of the region’s finest. Its latest venture turns that concept almost entirely inside out. The aim of representing the essence of Champagne remains paramount; however Jacquart has fastidiously examined each of those threads and pinpointed one which deserves a stage entirely of its own. The consequence of this project is an extraordinarily limited release of just 1,000 bottles of unadulterated Chardonnay from a single grower and the renowned Montaigu vineyard in Chouilly Grand Cru in the Côte de Blancs. Its rarity is compounded by the distinct possibility that this…

Italy’s deep south has long been smouldering in the shadows of the country’s celebrated wines from further north. After flashes of greatness over the years the area has now reached a critical mass of top-quality wines. Sure, certain pockets still lag behind, but a revolution has been set in motion. Greater care in the vineyard and skilled winemaking are showing southern Italy’s grapes in their finest light. The south is undoubtedly most associated with reds. Nerello Mascalese in Etna is synonymous with terroir-driven wines, and Aglianico provides some of Italy’s most ageworthy offerings. The latter continues to dazzle in Campania, while in neighbouring Basilicata, cleaner winemaking and more discriminating oak use is proving to be Aglianico’s merit. Lesser-known Uva di Troia in Puglia and Carignano in Sardinia are equally exciting,…

It’s Israel’s most-planted white grape and has been recommended as a cure for constipation in the past, but that’s not what has put Sauvignon Blanc in the number 11 spot in the world’s most-planted stakes. The stereotypical party-in-a-glass style, celebrating all things fresh and fruity, has made it one of the world’s most popular white grape varieties, and yet it is often treated with disdain by its makers and vendors. In Australia and New Zealand, a number of producers whose livelihood relies on the success of this grape have disparaged it as ‘bitch diesel’, and that is a disservice to a variety that is able to express its place and attain finesse when treated with respect. Humble beginnings Sauvignon Blanc’s roots can be traced back to the Loire Valley. In…

B Biodynamic O Organic 1 Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2017 89 B £21.95 StarmoreBoss, The Wine Reserve Equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. This 64ha estate has been biodynamically farmed since 1995. Exotic, floral aromas and tangy citrus. You’d hardly know 40% was barrel fermented; there is the subtlest textural lift. (Energies 2016, an amphora-aged red, has amazing clarity; 92pts). Drink 2019-2022 Alcohol 13% 2 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 5CC 2015 97 B £75-£90 (ib) Widely available A vindication of Jean-Michel Comme’s obsession with detail. A true Pauillac powerhouse, exploding with aromas of wild blackberries and Lapsang Souchong tea before the voluptuous, expressive palate unfolds. Peerless definition and gravitas, but have patience. Part matured in amphora. Drink 2025-2045 Alc 13.5% 3 Château Fonroque, St-Emilion Grand Cru, 2016 96 B…

Our winery was founded in 2009 in the “land of the Soavi”, where the roots of our vines have deep origins. We grow the grapes to make Soave and Valpolicella in an ambitious enterprise run by Roberta and flanked by her husband, Giacomo. Their determination and courageous vision of the future opens a new chapter for a family winemaking tradition that has gone on for four generations. The first vineyards run by the family are located on the Soave Classico and Valpolicella DOC hills and date back to the 20th century. Here, thanks to a unique terroir with a mild climate and a fortunate exposure to the sun, the quality of the grapes makes for high quality wines. Love for tradition and for their own lands, combined with a passion…

Since 1500, the Gini family have cultivated their own historic vineyards with great skill and enthusiasm, now biodynamically. These are 30ha of the best cru sites in the Soave Classico region. The vineyards are planted with old vines, some of them more than 100 years old, with deep roots in volcanic soil. Vinification is completely natural without the addition of sulphites. The wines produced are capably of long ageing and express all the potential of our land with elegance and finesse. Azienda Agricola Gini Sandro e Claudio Via Matteotti 42, 37032 Monteforte d’Alpone (VR) T: 045 7611908 www.ginivini.com…

Terre Rouge, Viognier, Fiddletown, Amador County 2016 91 £25 Domaine Direct Organically grown in Fiddletown, this whole-cluster-pressed Viognier with lees stirring in French oak offers density and a refreshing palate. Notes of guava and honeysuckle allude to the wine’s elegance and depth with a kick of spice on the finish. Drink 2019-2025 Alcohol 14.5% 1 Erggelet Brothers, Malvasia Blanca, Contra Costa County, San Francisco Bay 2018 90 N/A UK www.erggeletwine.com Having undergone malolactic fermentation in barrel, this unfiltered Malvasia from the Cecchini Vineyard entices with notes of rose, pineapple, lemon curd and creamy hints of vanilla. Zesty acidity cuts through baby fat with a citrussy finish in this beautifully phenolic wine. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 12.5% Peeps, Chardonnay, Lodi 2018 89 £14.99 Majestic Picked at around 14.5% potential alcohol and spending…

Emmerich Knoll, Vinothekfüllung Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2017 95 £62.90 Hedonism From terraced south-facing vineyards at 250m-350m, a blend of plots that manages to show all the qualities of a single vineyard and more: superb energy and length, natural richness and a firm, dry finish. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 14% Domaine Ostertag, Riesling Muenchberg Grand Cru, Alsace, France 2017 94 £53.80 Hedonism This beautiful south-facing amphitheatre has been planted since the 12th century. André Ostertag’s 1.65ha are vinified to produce a wine blending intensity and elegance, the Riesling’s tension expressed with great purity that will reward the patient. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13.5% Andrew Will, Pollard Red Blend, Yakima Valley, Washington State, USA 2016 92 £34.45 Berry Bros & Rudd A closely planted vineyard with clonal selections to match the soil…

This guide focuses on Mornington Peninsula, Geelong and Tasmania. Note that a good vintage in one Australian Pinot region doesn’t always correlate to other regions 2017 Mornington & Geelong: Excellent. Long, cool growing season, low yields, elegant, perfumed reds. Tasmania: Good to excellent. Producing Pinots of good colour and intensity. 2016 M&G: Warm, dry season, early ripening. Wines of structure, balance and ageing potential. T: Hot and dry, yields up with light Pinots of average to good quality. 2015 M&G: Perfect growing season, one of the vintages of the decade; classic, ageworthy reds. T: Good to excellent. Mild summer for fragrant, delicately structured and savoury Pinots. 2014 M&G: Cold spring, poor fruit set, low yields, stemmy flavours, some high-quality wines. T: Significant crop reduction but good, concentrated reds. 2013 M&G:…

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW A DWWA joint Regional Chair for Spain, Ballesteros Torres is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He is a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino and on the governing board of the Spanish Tasters’ Union. Sarah Jane Evans MW One of our three DWWA Co-Chairs, Evans is an awarded journalist and author specialising in Spanish wines, food and culture. A member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, her most recent book is The Wines of Northern Spain (Infinite Ideas 2018). Simon Field MW Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than two decades and now works as a consultant on areas which particularly interested him at that time, including Spain and the fortified category. He…

No one was more surprised than me when I decided to move to Dublin but, after many years in London, tired of not seeing the horizon, its small scale was a welcome relief. In this city of half a million, nothing is very far. You can easily meander from Trinity College to St Stephen’s Green, picking up a perfect flat white from one of the great independent cafés. Or walk alongside the Liffey and feed the deer in Phoenix Park – the largest walled park in any capital city in Europe. The Irish landscape is known for its rugged beauty. If you have only a couple of days in Dublin, a day trip to Glendalough or Howth will give you a taster. Dublin’s proximity to the sea and the mountains…

With their distinctive flavour and aroma, raspberries are genetically part of the rose family, alongside other soft hedgerow fruits like blackberries and loganberries. In the wine lexicon, raspberry is part of the red fruit category, next to cranberry at the tartest end of the spectrum, relating to the berry’s acidic yet sweet, fruity nature. Given these characteristics, raspberry is more commonly detected as a primary aroma in ripe and fruit-forward reds with medium to high acidity. Many wines from around the world fit this description, but typical associated grape varieties include Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Gamay plus several indigenous Spanish and Italian varieties. In this issue, see Planeta, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily 2017 (p21), Merlot-based wines from Château Fonroque and Clos Puy Arnaud (p62), Marras, The Trickster Pinotage…

1 Agustí Torelló Mata, Kripta Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2010 94 £49.22 Decántalo Very refined and graceful with delightful fresh and flowing acidity, soft tingling mousse and creamy development that fills the palate with flavours of turrón / nougat, nuts and ripe apples. Very alluring, with a long, mineral finish. Drink 2019-2030 Alcohol 11.5% 2 Alta Alella Mirgin, Opus Paraje Calificado Brut Nature 2015 94 £40 Carte Blanche Wines, Georges Barbier From coastal Alella right by Barcelona, this is immaculate Cava with superb focus and tension, a brisk Mediterranean saltiness and subtle garrigue-herb hints. Very long with an appetising twist of bitterness. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 12% 3 Agrícola Can Sala, Vins Familia Ferrer, Paraje Calificado Brut Nature 2007 93 £50 Tanners Coffee-grain scents of age in this fine long-aged Cava,…

■ Some of New York’s richest wine lovers have filed a $8.3m lawsuit against businessman Omar Khan. They claim he conned them into investing in luxury dinner parties with some of the world’s rarest wines. Despite Khan reporting that these investments were profitable, it was discovered that ‘most of the “ventures” were in fact not real’, claim the 13 plaintiffs. Khan has denied any wrongdoing and blamed ‘cashflow issues’ for some dinners not taking place. ■ Tempranillo and Touriga Nacional are among varieties to be trialled at a new research vineyard at Larkmead winery in Napa. Larkmead posits that climate change may force Napa Valley to grow less Cabernet Sauvignon in the future. Larkmead winemaker Dan Petroski said the region needs to prepare for the possibility that Cabernet ‘may no…

Stand by, over the next month or two, for a torrent of images from 1989: the fall of the Berlin Wall, Prague’s Velvet Revolution, the Christmas Day execution of Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceau¸sescu. I tuned in to the BBC World Service on Christmas Eve 1989 to get news from Romania – and found only the traditional Cambridge carol service, simultaneously available on two other BBC radio stations. When I rang to complain, I was told by a patronising duty manager that he didn’t think what was happening in Romania merited disrupting the transmission of a carol service on the BBC’s global news station. Well, it did. The economic and political emancipation of those Europeans and others who had spent most of the 20th century living under the Soviet shadow has…

I can still remember one of the sadder lunches that I had in Bordeaux about 10 years ago. It was with a group of winemaking friends that I met when I first came here, all from family estates in the Bordeaux, Blaye and Entre-Deux-Mers appellations, and all aged under 30, full of big ideas for how to transform their properties. During lunch, one after the other, three winemakers announced that they were getting out of the business, going to jobs that were steadier and better paid, unable to break out of the appellation trap where the small guys, working through négociants, are hemmed in by price ceilings attached to individual appellations. I was reminded of this recently, when I met Côtes de Bourg winemaker Oswaldo Hernandez, owner of Clos des…

On my first visit to Tasmania in 1991, I experienced the island’s cool climate first hand. After two January days spent trying to make sandcastles on a deserted, rainswept cold Southern Ocean beach, my six-year-old’s protestations became so insistent that we upped bucket and spade and headed for the warm, Pacific haven of Queensland. Only four years earlier, Tasmania had just 47ha planted, producing 154 tonnes of fruit. Visiting again this year as a guest judge at the 29th annual Tasmanian Wine Show, I learned that there are now more than 2,000ha planted, with more than 160 wine companies producing 885,000 cases (still less than 1% of Australia’s total). On that first trip, I had met Dr Andrew Pirie at Pipers Brook. Pirie was full of enthusiasm for Pinot Noir,…

LAZIO: CASALE DEL GIGLIO Casale del Giglio was fashioned as an experimental vineyard with 57 different grapes. ‘I’ve learned more from the varieties that haven’t worked than from the ones that have,’ asserts winemaker Paolo Tiefenthaler. Rather than making a distinction between international and indigenous varieties, he simply focuses on those that have an affinity with the Agro Pontino area. Petit Manseng and Syrah co-exist happily with Lazio’s native Bellone and Cesanese. Casale del Giglio, Faro della Guardia Biancolella, Lazio 2018 92 N/A UK www.casaledelgiglio.it Long cultivated on Campania’s island of Ischia, Biancolella is a recent import to Lazio. Here flavours of pink grapefruit, passion fruit, apricot and honey are carried by a sea breeze. Rich yet fluid with an explosive finish. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13% ABRUZZO: TIBERIO Siblings Cristiana…

Sauvignon’s dissemination has been as rapid as its flourishing foliage. Thanks to its global success this exuberant variety has been the subject of extensive research, from the pioneering work of the late Professor Denis Dubourdieu and his colleagues in Bordeaux to the sensory studies of former Kiwi intensive care nurse Dr Wendy Parr. We now know that Sauvignon Blanc’s character aromas have their origin in compounds including methoxypyrazines and thiols. Methoxypyrazines give us the green capsicum and grassy aromas, and Sauvignon Blanc has no shortage of them, particularly isobutyl methoxypyrazine (IBMP). Formed in the grapes, these compounds are relatively stable during fermentation and throughout the maturation process. In addition to this group of compounds, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc also contains high levels of sulphur-containing compounds known as thiols, in particular 3-mercaptohexanol…

Nature has not been especially kind to California over the past decade. Eight straight years of drought. Heart-wrenching wildfires. A devastating earthquake. And yet, as counterintuitive as it might seem, some of the most impressive and collectible California Cabernets have been made during this time – at least among the very top estates. Indeed, the 2014s, 2015s and 2016s that are now on the market reveal both intensity and complexity of flavour while promising great ageworthiness. In my recent tastings, the 2016s in particular – when gentle rains in early spring replenished the ground waters – are beguilingly delicious and at the same time possess exquisite structures. Beyond that gift of rain, to what does one attribute such success? Of all the possible factors, the one that seems most likely…

So, how are you on the subject of developments in Soave? Let’s take a short step back in history so we are all on the same page, and then we can surprise you with the latest happenings. What is Soave and what are its distinctive features? Soave is a white wine originating from a dense wine-producing area of about 7,000 hectares. The region is one of the most distinguished and homogeneous wine districts, less affected by other economic activities. And it lies in a unique landscape that starts in the Soave Classico zone and extends into the surrounding territory east of Verona, between the Illasi and Alpone valleys, at the foot of the Lessini Mountains. The territory’s propensity for vine cultivation was well understood back in 1931 when Soave was…

Motto Piane is designed as a Soave with structure that has elegance, too. The combination is not easy, but the 2017 vintage is a perfect example. Origins: The Motto Piane vineyard lies in the eponymous locality on the slopes of the extinct Monte Calvarina volcano at 250m asl. Grapes: 100% Garganega – guyot trained – 4500 vines/ha Vinification: the grapes are picked “over-ripe” at the beginning of November. If weather conditions allow, the grapes are given brief appassimento (drying process). Fermentation: wood/steel. Soc. Agr. Fattori Via Olmo 6, 37030 Terrossa di Roncà (VR) T: +39 045 7460041 www.fattoriwines.com…

Cantina di Monteforte was founded in 1952 by a group of vignerons united by their passion for wine and its region of production, and the ideals of the cooperative movement as the support for this region. Today, around 600 members farm 1200ha in the denominations of Soave, Lessini Durello and Valpolicella. Company philosophy is based on quality, from the vine to the bottle. This is how wines that have the aromas of volcanic soil exposed to the sun, and tradition, are born. Cantina di Monteforte, Via XX Settembre 24, Monteforte d’Alpone (VR) T: +39 045 761 0110 E: info@cantinadimonteforte.it…

1 Domaine Gramenon, Contre Couleur 2017 94 N/A UK www.domaine-gramenon.fr Small parcel of co-planted old vines (60% Grenache, Cinsault and Clairette) grown in Vinsobres terroir but bottled as AP Côtes du Rhône. Kaleidoscopic nose, turning around violets, plum, raspberry, citrus and sandalwood. Fresh and mouthfilling with a fine but solid tannic frame. Thin seam of woodsmoke on the long, savoury, malted finish. So vibrant and alive. Biodynamic. Drink 2019-2022 Alcohol 15% Domaine Gramenon, La Papesse 2016 93 N/A UK www.domaine-gramenon.fr Hand-picked parcel of 60-year-old Grenache. Reductive still – decant six hours before serving. Raw steak and liquorice flavours: full-bodied, dense and tannic but fresh. Very tight, and needs plenty of time to relax. Incredible energy and tension. Biodynamic. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14.5% 2 Domaine La Péquélette, Emile 2017 93 £24.90…

CLASSICAL REBULA WINES ŠčWTGM, RGDWNC 2018 89 A benchmark example of young fresh Rebula from a fifth-generation family winery, showing inviting aromas of pear and acacia, fine texture in the mouth and vibrant freshness. MQTQ, RGDWNC MCTIJGTKVC 2018 90 Made from gently dried Rebula grapes and matured in ceramic vessels. Aromas of wild honey and yellow plum are followed by lovely rounded flavours, gentle acidity and a salty tang. Dolfo, Rebula 2018 90 Bone dry fresh wines are the hallmark here. Lemon peel and meadow flowers lead onto a restrained but elegant palate of white peach and zesty freshness. MGFQV, RGDWNC JQWTPGy 2018 89 Named for the founder’s journey from state cellar to private estate. It brings together the freshness of young Rebula with the texture and complexity of skin-contact,…

Steven Spurrier’s fine wine world Our consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient picks fine wines to drink now and to lay down, all priced at £25 and above Weekday wines By Tina Gellie Want something more adventurous in your midweek wine selection but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? We’ve found 25 exciting wines to try for £25 or under Australian Pinot Noir 91 wines tasted An impressive showing with great style and quality to enjoy: one Exceptional and three Outstanding wines Priorat 87 wines tasted Our judges were pleased to find improving complexity and regional character, awarding plenty of high scores Expert’s Choice: Premium Australian Shiraz By Matthew Jukes Just the thing as autumn approaches: 18 of the best of these bold and spicy but…

Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Domaine Heitzmann, Clément Klur Brut, Crémant d’Alsace, France 91 B £22.50-£24 Hay Wines, Noble Green Wines, Jaded Palates A bone-dry sparkling with no added sulphur, from a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Flavours of bright apple, lemon confit and brioche are carried by brisk acidity and a leesy richness through to the smoky mineral finish. Alc 12.5% Bodegas Bernabeleva, Manchomuelas, Gredos, Spain 2016 93 £24 Alliance Wine, The Fine Wine Co, Winebuyers An old-vine (80 to 120 years) single-vineyard field blend of mainly Garnacha Blanca from…

By and large, this tasting more than met the expectations of the judges. We were both surprised and impressed by the quality of wines that often achieved a degree of elegance, despite some warm vintage conditions. We all agreed that the highlight of the tasting was Victoria, which accounted for 31 of the 39 top-scoring wines. Within Victoria, 13 were from Yarra Valley and 11 from Mornington Peninsula. Mornington Peninsula in particular is fulfilling its potential as a cool-climate maritime region producing Pinot Noir of world-class structure, with styles ranging from the clean, relatively light and fruit-driven to more complex reds of truffley, sometimes herbal undertones. With a helping hand from the Great Southern Ocean, Mornington Pinot Noir has now gone beyond wine of relatively simple red fruit to greater…

2017 One of the most difficult vintages – extremely dry and hot. Only old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena yielded quality. Give the best eight years to unfurl. 2016 Drought marked the vintage, provoking hydric stress. Old vines showed their advantage. Many impressive wines – at least 10 years ahead. 2015 Warm and abundant, with good quality overall. Concentrated wines, the best should develop well over 10 years. 2014 A difficult year, with rain episodes during harvest, but excellent conditions for late-ripening varieties. Uneven quality. 2013 A very cold winter gave way to a rainy spring and then a dry summer and autumn. Great quality, long ageing potential, probably more than 15 years. 2012 Very dry growing season, but good healthy grapes. Nice ageing potential, until 2024.…

As you enjoy this month’s Decanter, millions of people will be gripped by Rugby World Cup fever, captivated by battles occurring across Japan until 2 November. Wine and rugby are both high on my list of passions, and it is this global celebration of the game which made me think about how both have changed over the years. I played rugby more than three decades ago, and while there were some big lads on the pitch, there was room for some of us smaller, lighter, nimbler guys to make our mark. Team photos show a remarkable range of physical specimens, from little tiddlers, to beanpoles and strongmen, to rather chubby types. Looking at the physical stats of the players today, it seems every position is filled with extraordinarily tall, heavy…

1 Green Man Run by the wonderful David Gallagher (aka the nicest man in the Irish wine industry) and his lovely wife Claire, this wine bar and shop has a great selection of natural and classic wines. A bit further out but worth it for the opportunity of being ‘Green Manned’. Anyone in the know buys their wine here. www.greenmanwines.ie 2 Fish Shop Owners Peter and Jumoke Hogan have come a long way from the converted shed where they first started serving fish and chips. Nowadays, Fish Shop is made up of two sites: a fish restaurant, and a wine bar where they serve their perfect fish and chips alongside fabulously interesting wines by the glass. www.fish-shop.ie 3 Piglet This wine bar is the brainchild of Toulousain…

A legend because… Jamet’s Côte-Rôtie had already attracted attention with the 1985 vintage, but with the superb 1990 there was a major leap forward. In previous decades Côte-Rôtie in general could be very extracted, requiring long bottle-ageing, and that didn’t always occur. By 1990 the Jamet wine had become far more fruit-forward and although enjoyable on release, the balance was good enough to ensure it could continue to evolve over a further two decades. Looking back Joseph Jamet’s first vintage was in 1976. In the 1980s he began expanding his property near Ampuis, though it remained small with just 6ha planted. His sons Jean-Luc and Jean-Paul helped ensure that the right kind of vines were planted in the right spot with the appropriate rootstocks, the estate consisting of 19 parcels…

1 Belondrade, Belondrade y Lurton 2016 96 £30-£31.95 Hic, Uncorked Fresh, delicate nose with white peach, fennel and lemon peel. A broad, waxy palate with creamy, savoury complexity; a hint of salinity on the finish. Organic. Drink 2019-2024 Alcohol 13.5% 2 Bodegas Naia, Naiades 2014 95 £19.17-£22.96 Blas ar Fwyd, Connolly’s, Kwoff, Noel Young, Rannoch Scott, WoodWinters Low-yielding old vines (up to 130 years). Ripe pear, melon, Meyer lemon, creamy fennel and a touch of anise. Perfectly harmonious. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13.5% 3 José Pariente, Fermentado en Barrica Verdejo 2017 94 £27.50 Hedonism Soft apricot and smoky pear notes on the nose are followed by a rounded, complex palate, with anise, tarragon and creamy oak. Silky and harmonious in the mouth, with a long finish. This estate is now in…

Founded Wine statute approved 1932; DO Valencia established 1957 Vineyard area 13,000ha Annual production Around 700,000hl Wineries 101, about half of which bottle wine Growers 85% are members of cooperatives Climate Mediterranean, with risk of storms in summer and autumn. Average rainfall 500mm, mainly October-December Sunshine averages 2,700 hours Main grape varieties White: Moscatel, Merseguera, Malvasia, Macabeo. Red: Tempranillo, Garnacha and Garnacha Tintorera, Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon…

Baldovar 923, Rascaña 2018 94 £16.45 (2017) Vinissimus This orange wine – a blend of the local Merseguera with Macabeo – was fermented on skins. Aromatic, with grapefruit zest aromas and refreshingly crisp with a salty sign-off. The high vineyards (up to 1,200m) are organic in conversion. Drink 2019-2022 Alcohol 12% 1 Javier Revert, Micalet 2018 93 £24.50 Clapton Craft, Indigo Wine, Nysa Wines Mainly Tortosí and Trepadell with local grapes Malvasía, Macabeo, Merseguera and Verdil. One third is aged in old oak, but Revert favours ageing the majority in demijohns. Complex, with notes of gooseberry and greengage. Fresh, saline, textured, long. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14% 2 Casa Los Frailes, Blanca de Trilogía 2018 90 N/A UK www.bodegaslosfrailes.com Aromatic (from the Muscat à Petits Grains and Sauvignon Blanc), refreshing (Sauvignon…

1 Viñátigo, Vijariego Blanco, Ycoden-Daute-Isora, Canary Islands 2017 93 £19.59-£23.99 Exel, Hallgarten Wines, In Vino Veritas, Shelved Wine One of the Canary Islands’ great advocates of native varieties, Viñátigo here shows off the joys of white variety Vijariego. Fermented in French oak, this tastes of pears in custard and crackles with a smoky energy. Drink 2019-2022 Alcohol 13% 2 El Grifo, Colección Malvasía Seco, Lanzarote, Canary Islands 2017 90 £20-£24.49 Exel, Hallgarten Wines, Hay Wines, Shelved Wine Malvasía was the original source of Canary Island wine fame; today on Lanzarote it makes for an utterly distinctive dry white that combines floral and stone-fruit notes with pristine acidity and Grüner-like pepperiness. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13% Mesquida Mora, Sincronia Blanc, Pla i Levant, Balearic Islands 2018 89 £15-£15.35 Exel, The Fine Wine…

1 Vega Sicilia, Valbuena 5° 2014 95 £83.33 (ib)-£148 AG Wines, Averys, Berry Bros & Rudd, Farr Vintners, Lay & Wheeler, Lea & Sandeman, Handford, Hedonism, Noble Green, Taylor’s Younger sibling to the legendary Unico, Valbuena is a legend in its own right. Tinto Fino with 5% Merlot, aged for five years in vessels of differing sizes, translating into encyclopaedic flavours and a tense, chiselled dénouement. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 14% 2 Vega Sicilia, Alión 2014 94 £65.95-£80.50 Averys, Blas ar Fwyd, Eton Vintners, Noble Green, Private Cellar, South Downs Cellars, The Good Wine Shop, Tom I’Anson, Uncorked, WoodWinters The modern face of Vega Sicilia brims with French barrique confidence, spice and class. The palate of this single-varietal Tinto Fino shows finely chiselled tannins and a weight of rich dark fruit.…

Sherry Sherry is a real party wine – it sets off the dancing at spring fairs across Andalucia. That’s why I welcome the trend for dry Sherry in magnum, especially the ‘en rama’ (‘fresh from the barrel’) seasonal releases. Look out for Tio Pepe En Rama in the spring (Cambridge Wine Merchants and The Oxford Wine Co still have some of the 2019 release), or track down Valdespino’s Inocente Fino and Equipo Navazos’ La Bota 70 Manzanilla Pasada (£48 and £60 respectively for 150cl at The Magnum Co). Take your pick of the Sherry styles, though the heavenly twins – fino and manzanilla – should be a fixture in your fridge. Finos come from Jerez and El Puerto de Santa María; manzanillas from Sanlúcar de Barrameda by the coast. In…

Sherry is ready to drink. Many producers now put the bottling date on the back label, so you may be able to decipher how fresh your bottle is. However, there’s an increasing trend among producers of top manzanillas and finos to say that their wines can be kept in bottle. At our ‘Wines for Cellaring’ tasting (see p6), our verdict was that whether you prefer a recent bottling of a fino or one with more age is down to personal preference. However the oxidative Sherries have a capacity to age in the bottle. For instance we tasted an ‘old’ bottling of Osborne’s glorious AOS Amontillado against a recent release. The older bottle shone: a remarkable wine. The youngster needs more time in bottle. Finally, remember Sherry vinegar (DO Vinagre de…

Until 1435, paintings were more or less nice representations of images, but for today’s observers a bit bizarre. Figures were painted on flat backgrounds, and objects overlapped or were placed on top of each other. Those paintings convey messages, but they lack something. Then master painters created a new, more complex, and more emotional dimension to their compositions. Two men made that breakthrough possible: Filippo Brunelleschi and Leon Battista Alberti. The first famously discovered the principles of perspective, while Alberti produced a treatise on its applications to painting. A new art was created out of science. Making a name Until 1858, Rioja was a region producing lots of wine, quite common wine. In 1833, Cyrus Redding wrote his masterpiece on wines of the world, A History and Description of Modern…

Undulating plains of sand-coloured earth are broken up by neatly striped rows of vines and stippled with olive groves. A solitary windmill sits in the windswept fertile plateau, the horizon stretching into the blue distance, where hills are dotted with their 21st century equivalent, wind turbines. Add abundant castles picturesquely ruined, plus a dearth of tourists and it’s Spain as Cervantes might have seen it. Welcome to Jumilla. Firstly, let’s get the pronunciation right – who-ME-ah. Next, you need to know where it is, exactly. Head south out of Madrid, over the flat plains of La Mancha, until you see the mountains of Tobarra – this is where the Jumilla Destination of Origin (DO) starts, in a high altitude valley flanked by the towns of Alicante, Albacete and Murcia, about…

ACCOMMODATION Hotel Pazo de Altamira The refurbished medieval palace of the Count of Altamira in the old centre of Santiago is perfectly located for a city break. Close to great shopping, bars and restaurants, the best rooms have gallery balconies overlooking the market across the street. Be sure to try the hotel’s excellent restaurant, which also boasts one of the best wine lists in town. www.pazodealtamira.com Hotel Quinta de San Amaro A beautiful 14-room hotel set in the heart of the Salnés Valley just outside Pontevedra. It offers a full range of activities, including winery visits, cooking classes and outdoor experiences, with owners Nacho and Julio taking care of all the details. www.quintadesanamaro.com RESTAURANTS Bar Pampín Chef Alén Tarrío has turned a 19th-century taberna in the San Pedro barrio of…

Plavac Mali is Dalmatia’s headline-grabbing red, but the variety which interested me the most on my Croatia trip was the Istrian speciality Teran: a tougher and more confronting proposition, but a wine which can at best age superbly well, and is capable of profundity. Look out for Coronica’s 2015: midnight black, aromatically brooding, astonishingly concentrated yet complex on the palate. Try it now to gauge scale and dimension – but it would certainly be better after a decade in the cellar.…

Some wines are like meeting up with an old friend. It had been a few years since I’d uncorked a bottle of Pibarnon, and I immediately sank into the finesse of the tannins and the rich, spicy, black fruits, set against dried herbs and rose petals. It’s now been 41 years since the St-Victor family arrived in 1978 to make wine from the stunning amphitheatre vineyard that I first visited way before I was writing about wine – and hope to continue visiting for years to come.…

Having called into Bay of Fires and enjoyed the House of Arras 2008 Blanc de Blancs and Arras Grand Vintage wines, I was delighted to see the gorgeously toasty, rich Grand Vintage 2008, with its savoury oyster-shell note, pick up a Platinum award at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards. It was equally good to see Clover Hill’s Brut 2013 – a complex, briochey blend with a briney tanginess sipped on the new cellar door terrace overlooking the Bass Strait – winning a Gold medal.…

The new Cantina di Soave premises are finally ready. Modernisation and extension work, with a total re-organisation of the area is complete. An enormous investment which included building an automated warehouse with space for 8 million bottles; two new bottling lines able to process 80 million bottles a year; wine-making/ storage area extension: total capacity 1.6 million hl, with a new underground purification system; a new office wing and renovation of the existing one, to a total of about 1,200 m². This important result comes from the Cantina’s work in expansion to grow to 200 members and 6,500 hectares of vineyards over the last 20 years. The commercial rewards have followed: now top Cantina di Soave brands can be found worldwide (in more than 60 countries). Heavy investments have also…

Tradition and Future. Past and Present. The Montresor name comes from an illustrious French ancestor in the 16th century. The double label stands for the link between the different moments of our history. Soave Classico “Le Fattorie Montresor” is a thrilling experience. This wine expresses the identity of a unique area that is guaranteed to impress anyone discovering it: a rare pleasure. That’s the Montresor style; find it in the personalised bottle bearing the history of the Cantine Giacomo Montresor. Cantine Giacomo Montresor Via Cà di Cozzi 16, 37124 Verona T: +39 045 913399 E: info@vinimontresor.it…

From selling houses to selling mattresses, businesses described as ‘disruptive’ have changed the way we go about everyday transactions. Disruption in the winemaking world is no different, and is nothing new. Some of the most sought-after wines on the market today started life when a winemaker ripped up the rule book and started doing things differently. When Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Bordeaux varieties in Tuscany, downgrading his Sassicaia to a humble IGT, locals probably thought he was mad. When Aimé Guibert planted a vineyard in the Languedoc with varieties from all over Europe, who would have thought that Mas de Daumas would become known as the ‘Lafite of the Languedoc’? You can add Chateau Musar (posh wine from the Lebanon?), Domaine de Trévallon (Cabernet Sauvignon in Provence, sacré bleu!)…

California has no shortage of sun-kissed vineyards and praiseworthy wine. Images of Napa and Sonoma instinctively come to mind, yet the Golden State is actually a treasure chest of esteemed vineyards rooted in less obvious areas. Among these underdog regions are the Sierra Foothills, Lodi and Contra Costa. Unique in their own right, what they share is a repertoire of old-vine, own-rooted vineyards that unveil a movement towards wine that’s picked at lower Brix (sugar levels/potential alcohol) with gentler handling to achieve supple texture, fruit purity and crunchier acidity. With the appealing price-quality ratio of these regions, both new and veteran winemakers have access to some of the state’s most distinguished sites. Julie Albin is a US-based wine and spirits journalist, educator and consultant, and former editor-in-chief of Drink Me…

FROM THE CELLAR Le Pin, Pomerol, Bordeaux 2008 On 10 July, Berry Bros & Rudd’s Napoleon Cellar saw the launch of Fiona Morrison-Thienpont MW’s book 10 Great Wine Families under the Académie du Vin Library imprint. The venue and the impressive guest list were well matched by the wines presented, one from each family, seven members of which had travelled to London for the occasion. Egon Müller’s QBA Riesling 2018, Familia Torres’ Varietat Recuperada No23 Forcada 2015 and Weingut Emmerich Knoll’s Loibner Grüner Veltliner Vinothekfüllung 2009 set the scene for the whites, followed by Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair’s Clos du Château Vosne-Romanée 2010, L’Ermita 2015 from the Palacios dynasty, Gaja’s Sorì San Lorenzo 2015, Thienpont’s Le Pin, Pomerol 2008 in magnum, Château de Beaucastel’s Hommage à Jacques Perrin 2007 (magnum),…

Roger Jones Jones and his wife Sue own The Harrow at Little Bedwyn restaurant. He combines his kitchen duties with a love of wine and often visits Australia to promote food and wine matching. He set up Restaurant Australia in the UK and The Tri Nations Challenges for South African, New Zealand and Australian wines. Justin Knock MW Knock has worked across all sectors of the wine business including winemaking, buying, marketing and education, working directly with brands from Australia, South Africa, Chile, Italy and California. He has been a Master of Wine since 2010 and holds degrees in Industrial Chemistry and Food Science. Anthony Rose Rose is a wine and sake critic, who writes for The Independent, i and FT: How To Spend It. He has won a number…

Priorat is entering into a new phase of its modern history. The region is very prestigious, which has been vital in enhancing its self-confidence and its scope to be able to experiment and develop greater diversity within a well-defined overall identity. The permitted international grape varieties, so important in the early success of Priorat wines, now play second fiddle to Garnacha and Cariñena. Key to quality in the region are viticulture and winemaker personality. Climate change is a factor – the last few years have seen a succession of extreme drought seasons, with record high temperatures interspersed with heavy rains, often coming at a bad moment. Vine-growers have been able to maintain very good quality despite these difficulties. One consequence of such developments is the rise of Cariñena – sturdy,…

With roughly 1,000 wineries, a bounty of Michelin-starred restaurants and new luxury hotels popping up around every corner, Napa and Sonoma businesses are constantly being pushed to up the ante and diversify in order to stand out from the stiff competition. The local wine bars are no exception. A wave of new venues have entered the scene with trendy and playful designs made for the Instagram age, while some old wine-country favourites have gallantly bounced back better than ever after falling victim to the recent earthquakes and fires. These join the ranks of the tried and true classics, who have no need for pageantry and thrive on their reputable wine lists alone. As for food, it’s a given, though it ranges from late-night nibbles to farm-fresh veggies and gourmet burgers…

Dappled wine? In his column in your August issue, Andrew Jefford describes the Paul Blanck, F Pinot Noir as, ‘resonant, dappled, energetic and fresh’. ‘Dappled’ seems a curious word for a wine – could Mr Jefford explain please? Peter Clayton, by email Andrew Jefford replies: Dappled is a visual word, referring to spots of colour that are lighter or darker than a main colour, or patches of light and shade – like the filtered light on a sunny day beneath a tree in leaf. Gerard Manley Hopkins’ short, ecstatic poem ‘Pied Beauty’ is a celebration of that which is dappled (‘rose-moles all in stipple upon trout that swim’) and by extension ‘All things counter, original, spare, strange’. Many complex wines (like the Paul Blanck F Pinot) share this quality. Indeed…

A rush of new releases from renowned estates has established autumn as a key time for collectors to watch the Place de Bordeaux. The 2016 vintages of Opus One, Masseto, Solaia and Nicolás Catena Zapata, plus the 2017 wines of Almaviva, Seña and Beaucastel’s Hommage à Jacques Perrin have been launched in recent weeks via Bordeaux négociants. Latour also re-released its 2011, the last vintage that it sold en primeur, which the UK trade offered at about £5,460 for a 12-bottle case. Look out for exclusive tasting notes for some of these wines at www.decanter.com/premium…

The golden age for the noble families of Europe extended from the Middle Ages through to the 18th century. The aristocracy flourished, with hereditary titles such as duke, marquis or baron bestowed by the ruling monarch. Considered to be just one step removed from royalty, the title holders were endowed with various privileges, including land ownership and the collection of rents and taxes. Titles were passed down through generations, but from the 18th century onwards the rise of the bourgeoisie, the middle classes, saw privileges gradually being stripped away from aristocrats (think French Revolution). As a result, in most of Europe today, such titles are mainly symbolic. But many families do retain their titles after acquiring wealth and land. They remain part of an elite, with social networks that give…

Baldovar 923 Right across the DO, many producers and cooperatives are expressing a clear sense of social responsibility: a duty to recuperate vineyards, to ensure employment in villages, to rebuild communities. Baldovar 923 began with two fathers meeting at their children’s school, with an idea to produce something from the soil. Initially, in 2016, they worked in the tiny abandoned village co-op with no running water or electricity, using car headlights to light the interior. Today the winery is more professional (see right). Their mountain vineyards at 900m-1,200m are on calcareous soils, with temperatures that can climb from 6°C to 30°C in a few hours. It couldn’t be further from the seaside cliché of Valencia. Very promising. Pablo Calatayud Pablo Calatayud’s Celler del Roure is a beautifully restored masia high…

1 Hijos de Alberto Gutiérrez, De Alberto Dorado, Rueda 95 £19.50/50cl Vinissimus This is a dry Verdejo that’s oxidatively aged, first in sunlight in glass demijohns and then in a Sherry-like solera. Nutty and succulent palate with notes of honey. Spicy on the finish with warming nutmeg and cinnamon. A rose revived. Drink 2019-2022 Alcohol 17.5% 2 Sánchez Romate, Oloroso Encontrado 1/5, Jerez 93 £17/37.5cl Ehrmanns, The Wine Society Definitely an oloroso for the armchair – very intense. It’s a real vino di meditazione. Reflect on the complexity of this rare old Sherry: mahogany, coffee, eucalayptus, caramel, nutty, pungent. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 20% Emilio Lustau, 2019 Fino en Rama, Jerez 92 £17.50/50cl Berry Bros & Rudd A great introduction to classic fino. This is part of a clever set of…

4 Gutiérrez de la Vega, La Báscula, Casta Diva Cosecha Miel Moscatel Dulce, Spain 2013 92 £21.30-£24.50/50cl (2013/14) Blanco & Gomez, Field & Fawcett, H2Vin, Terra Wines An expert in Moscatel, Felipe Gutiérrez de la Vega made the wine for the King of Spain’s wedding feast. This bottling is based on that astonishing, golden original, small quantities of which are bottled as ‘Reserva Real’. Track that wine down at www.alforins.com. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 14% Maetierra, Melante Colección, Valles de Sadacia 2017 92 N/A UK www.vintae.com ‘Authentic liquid confectionery,’ says the label. It’s true. This polished, modern creation is plump with golden peaches, and fine balancing acidity from the botrytis-affected Moscatel grapes. The time in French oak adds texture, without oakiness. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 15.5% Bodegas Bentomiz, Ariyanas Naturalmente Dulce, Málaga…

Looking at the wines that made it into the top 30, the immediate reaction, depending on your viewpoint, is either to marvel at or despair at the stranglehold Rioja still has on Spanish wines in the UK high street. Half the wines tasted were Rioja (predominantly reservas and crianzas) and 17 of the 30 selected were Rioja (all but one either reserva or crianza). As the overall standard of the wines tasted was high, with 21 rated Highly Recommended (90-94 points), of which 13 were Rioja, the obvious conclusion is that red Rioja is very reliable – in fact, probably one of the most reliable reds in the £10 to £15 price bracket in the UK. No cause for despair there, surely? Well, no, but it may not look quite…