Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2024 i Decanter

LEGENDARY PORT ELLEN DISTILLERY REOPENS Former ‘ghost distillery’ Port Ellen has been resurrected as part of a £185 million investment by Diageo. The Islay single malt distillery was founded in 1825, but mothballed in 1930. After reopening in 1967, it was closed again in 1983. Its last casks were stored nearby and over the following decades, they blossomed into an extraordinary, distinctly smoky single malt. In 2017, Diageo announced plans to bring Port Ellen back to life. Work was completed early this year and the new distillery complex opened in March. ‘We’re very lucky that we have the Diageo archive team, who had documents and blueprints for the original stills,’ explained Master Distiller Alexander McDonald. ‘Everything from the shape and fill size has been accurately recreated to the original specifications.’…

I have lived most of my life in Athens, a city that blends and balances the ancient with the modern. This blend is how I experience this age-old culture’s cuisine. Its roots are ancient, its core has been preserved, yet over the years it has harmoniously developed and been touched by the course of history, from West and East. Over the last 20 years or so, there has been a big turn towards traditional regional cooking and local artisanal products. The simplicity of traditional cuisine has been re-evaluated and appreciated further for its health benefits and respect for the ingredients that define it. Greek chefs are making their mark on the global culinary scene, winning awards for their creativity, and from high-end restaurants to simple tavernas, Greek cuisine is thriving.…

Ask Decanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com WHAT’S IN ASAUTERNES? Abottle of Lay &Wheeler own-label Sauternes enjoyed recently showed clearly it was produced by Ch. Suduiraut and bottled at the château. ‘Grand Vin de Bordeaux’ was printed on the label. Suduiraut is a premier cru classé estate – does that mean the wine I bought is inferior to the château’s own label? Matthew Pollard, by email Andy Howard MW, Decanter contributing editor, replies: The wine is not necessarily inferior but will be different to that sold under the château’s own label. The fact that the wine has been crafted by a leading Sauternes producer should be a guarantee of good quality – the château will be conscious that Suduiraut’s name appears…

GIMBLETT GRAVELS: A PREVIEW OF 2021 TINA GELLIE It’s always a treat to receive the Annual Vintage Selection case from the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association: 12 reds that show why the free-draining alluvial soils in this patch of New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay are so prized. Master of Wine Andrew Caillard curates each year’s case and this 14th iteration, showcasing the 2021 vintage, features six Syrahs and six Bordeaux blends. Described as ‘completing the greatest trifecta of vintages ever’ in the district, the long, warm, dry 2021 growing season – culminating in the earliest harvest on record – has delivered an exceptional set of wines. Of the Syrahs, the Trinity Hill, Homage was my pick, followed by Craggy Range’s Le Sol and Smith & Sheth’s Cru Omahu, with the Stonecroft Reserve…

Too often, Riesling gets a bad rap. Through much of the 20th century, American bottlings were often confusing. There was little consistency in labelling and wines made using unrelated varieties or distant relatives often adopted the name, such as Grey Riesling or Missouri Riesling. A 1996 ruling by the TTB (US Treasury department’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau) cleared up a lot of the ambiguities around the use of the name ‘Riesling’ on US wine labels, but it wasn’t until 2006 that TTB regulations doing away with the last of the misleading Riesling-based names came into force. In 2008, a sweetness scale developed and launched by the International Riesling Foundation debuted on American Riesling bottles to help dispel the locally held belief that all Rieslings are sweet. ‘Versatility…

Classics shine at Hong Kong sales Top Burgundy and mature Bordeaux have been among the highlights at recent Hong Kong-based auctions by Sotheby’s and Christie’s. In April, a Sotheby’s auction featuring ‘a remarkable Burgundy cellar’ saw a six-bottle lot of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti Grand Cru 1978 sell for HK$562,500 (£56,600), including buyer’s premium – albeit below the pre-sale high estimate of HK$800,000. White Burgundies were also prominent in the auction. A 12-bottle collection of Domaine d’Auvenay’s En La Richarde, Puligny-Montrachet 1999 in its original wooden case (OWC) fetched HK$500,000 (high estimate: HK$550,000). Only 1,224 bottles of the wine were produced, said Sotheby’s. Domaine Ramonet, Montrachet 1995 (12x75cl, OWC) sold for HK$300,000 (high e: HK$320,000). Bordeaux’s vaunted 1961 vintage again demonstrated its enduring appeal, with three magnums of Petrus…

Rioja: the facts (2022) Registered vineyards 66,797ha Geography Rioja is 120km (northwest to southeast) by 35km (northeast to southwest) Altitude 900m at the highest part Main soil types Clay-limestone, ferrous-clay and alluvial 14 authorised grape varieties White Viura, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca, Turruntés, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo. Red Tempranillo, Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, Mazuelo, Maturana Tinta Annual production 403m kg and 282m litres (2021) Annual sales 251m litres (40% outside Spain) Main styles Genérico, crianza, reserva, gran reserva Sub-zones Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta, Rioja Oriental Wineries 799 wineries (574 bottling wineries, including co-operatives) Tourism 748,345 visitors, 29% from outside Spain. 202 wineries open to visitors SOURCE: CONSEJO REGULADOR DOCA RIOJA 3 Welcome Our guest editors Sarah Jane Evans MW and Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW introduce this year’s guide…

Having a US editor on the ground means that even though Decanter’s headquarters and most of our staff are in London, we’re bang up to date with what’s happening in the US wine world, not only in California and New York, but also in the Pacific Northwest where our US editor Clive Pursehouse is based. He’s done a lot of the hard graft on this issue, speaking to his network of writers, lining up articles on the people, places and vintages that readers should know about – and writing the lead feature (on the West coast’s new vanguard, see p24) himself. For regular US content in your inbox, subscribe to Clive’s weekly newsletter at decanter.com/us-newsletter Lastly, excellent news for all magazine subscribers – and especially those based outside the UK,…

Stay up to date with the latest wine news on decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter China has said it is removing punitive import tariffs on Australian bottled wine, Australia’s government has announced. China’s Ministry of Commerce imposed interim tariffs of up to 218% in 2020, as part of an anti-dumping investigation. It then confirmed the wine import duties in 2021. Australia’s government said wine exports to China were worth A$1.1bn (£0.57bn) in 2019, but the tariffs effectively made shipments unviable. nAlbariño has been tipped for future success in UK vineyards by leading producer Balfour Winery. According to the Kent producer, there is a waiting list for its debut release of 2022-vintage English Albariño. Three-star Michelin restaurant Sketch in London has taken an allocation of the wine,…

Syrah in the US remains an enigma. Cult brands that emerged during the 1990s – Sine Qua Non on the Central Coast or Cayuse Vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley – are among the country’s iconic and most expensive wines. But by and large, Syrah is still the perennial underdog of American wine. ‘There’s this assumption that Syrah [in America] is just this goopy, overly alcoholic, overoaked and overextracted wine,’ explains Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen (pictured, right), the winemakersommelier who produces WT Vintners’ Syrah from vineyards in Washington and Oregon. The benchmark for Syrah is still encapsulated in the northern Rhône ideal. But to critics who claim that Syrah’s otherworldliness, its haunting florality and sanguine, sauvage complexities, can’t be found outside France, America’s Syrah growers have a firm response. ‘Sorry, that’s just…

Early spring in Napa is a time of promise. Mustard greens spring to life in the vine rows and the coming vintage release still in barrel allows us a look ahead. Darting from tasting to tasting in Premiere Napa Valley week this year, my anticipation matched that of spring’s exhilarating potential. Focusing on single-estate blends and sampling nearly 100 Cabernet wines, my early impression is that two distinct styles will emerge from the 2022 growing season. One offers a super-ripe, darkfruited profile with soft, round and plump tannins; the other lighter wines with red fruit, assertive tannins and angular acidity. Even reports from the Napa Valley Vintners association have labelled 2022 a ‘tale of two harvests’. HOT TOPIC There was a major heat event in early September, and although it…

You would be surprised at how exciting it can be to taste nearly 140 Malbecs back-to-back. Far from any monotony, there was a compelling diversity of wine styles, regions and expressions in this panel tasting. Proving that premium Malbec remains at the forefront of the evolving face of Argentinian wine, the tasting highlighted not only an ever-greater focus on terroir – particularly in the sub-regions of Mendoza’s Uco Valley – but also a quest for freshness and elegance. ‘The best examples displayed excellent varietal definition and a real sense of place,’ commented Dirceu Vianna Junior MW. ‘It is wonderful to see great premium Malbec emerging from all corners of the country, with especially high quality coming out of Mendoza’s Uco Valley and more specifically [Paraje] Altamira.’ Distinctive regional expressions ranged…

Gratien &Meyer, Generation Series Crémant de Loire, France 2020 £14.50 The Wine Society Anod to the ‘Sparkling Saumur’ wines listed by The Wine Society in its early days. Approachable yet complex, with zestiness, minerality and red fruit nuances. Fleshy pear, quince and pink grapefruit, firm acidity and a subtle butteriness. IS Alc 12.5% Jacques Dépagneux, Generation Series Mâcon-Villages, Burgundy, France 2022 £16.50 The Wine Society An elegant (and great value) expression of the lovely 2022 vintage. Nuanced and alluring nose, delicate floral notes mingling with yellow apple, toasted almonds and preserved lemons. Deft use of oak adds structural complexity. IS Alc 13% Celler Pardas, Rupestris, Penedès, Catalonia, Spain 2022 £17.21-£19.20 Spirits24, The Sourcing Table, Winesquare Ablend of Malvasia de Sitges with Xarel·lo. The former adds nuanced aromatics and lively acidity…

What led you to a career in fine wine? My family. Being a first-generation Italian American, wine is an important part of my culture and was always on the table at home. Both my uncles were wine importers, and I was recruited into the business by one of them. What has been your greatest moment, professionally? The resurrection of Wilson Daniels to its previous heights when it was under the leadership of the founders, Win Wilson and Jack Daniels. When I took on the leadership of Wilson Daniels in 2015, the company had been in decline for about 15 years. In the nine years since, we have increased the employee base and our revenues five-fold. What has been your biggest challenge? Without a doubt, Covid-19. We represent some of the…

PEDRO BALLESTEROS TORRES MW is a widely published wine journalist, educator and judge. He is a member of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and is on the governing board of the Spanish Tasters’ Union FIONA BECKETT is a contributing editor to Decanter. Publishing at matchingfoodandwine. com, she is a leading expert on food and drink matching. She writes a column for The Guardian and a Substack newsletter Eat This, Drink That SARAH JANE EVANS MW is an awarded journalist, author and broadcaster, a DWWA Co-Chair, and the chair of the Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino. Her new book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain is set for release in 2025 SIMON FIELD MW was a chartered accountant before working as a buyer for Berry Bros &…

Leaving aside its most traditional meaning as a devotional image of Christ, an icon has come to mean ‘a person or thing serving as a representative symbol’, a symbol that may or may not be worthy of veneration, but certainly merits respect. I have selected six wines from Rioja that, I feel, meet this criterion. The choice was relatively easy, although some very worthy contenders didn’t make the final line-up, including Artadi’s El Pisón, Telmo Rodríguez’s Remelluri and Benjamin Romero’s Contador, as well as several others. I have focused on wines and wineries that lend an historical perspective, and that capture the very best of the notion of tradition in this celebrated DOCa. My own Damascene moment with Rioja occurred when I first tasted the Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva and…

Rioja is such a well-known, well-loved wine that it’s easy to take the kind of food you pair it with for granted – the assumption being that it will be red wine and that lamb will top the list. Nothing wrong there, of course. No one who’s been to the region and feasted on those absolutely delectable, sweet, smoky lamb cutlets cooked over an open fire of vine cuttings would disagree. But there’s a lot more to Rioja than that. The fact that it comes in more than one colour, for a start. DIVERSE REDS First, let’s dig a bit deeper into what you could pair with a red Rioja, depending on price and style. As you probably know, the classification system – crianza, reserva and gran reserva – is…

This was an intriguing tasting that threw up some surprises, much like the viñedo singular category itself. Since the 2017 harvest, producers in Rioja have been permitted to classify specific vineyard sites, shifting the focus from the ageing process to the wine’s origin. In this tasting, we assessed wines from the first five vintages produced within this designation. The highest scoring wines offered the clearest varietal character and sense of place. Among the three Outstanding wines (see opposite), the Garnacha-dominant blend of Quiñón de Valmira displayed the red cherry fruit that’s typical of the variety, accented by the flinty freshness of the higher zones of Monte Yerga. Meanwhile, Tronco Negro – from 90-year-old vineyards – exemplified the old-vine concentration that’s demanded by the category (vines must be at least 35…

Finca de la Rica, Las Cabezadas de Matadula 2021 BW 95 MF 93 PM 95 fincadelarica.com Pleasant blueberry and red cherry fruit. Youthful and fleshy with firm yet ripe tannins. Polished and evolving, showing sensitive oak treatment. A serious wine with a long spicy finish. Drink 2024-2031 Alc 15% Juan Carlos Sancha, Cerro La Isa Blanco 2021 BW 93 MF 92 PM 93 £58 WoodWinters Vibrant lemon aromas intertwine with camomile and white floral notes, complemented by creamy and delicate oak. A robust palate with green apple and white pepper. Drink 2024-2028 Alc 13.5% Beronia, Vareia Beronia 2019 BW 92 MF 92 PM 93 fincadelarica.com Enticing aromas of smoke, bacon and red berries. Polished and rich with integrated oak. Focused sweet fruit and vibrant tannins, leading to a woody, herbal,…

Amaren, Malvasía 60 2019  Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW 95 Sarah Jane Evans MW 95 Pierre Mansour 94 £33.95 Alliance Wine, NY Wines Amaren means ‘of the mother’ in the Basque language. It is indeed Juan Luis Cañas’ aim to get deep into the roots of Rioja Alavesa, by working only with old vines. Amaren’s 60 series wines are made from grapes sourced from vineyards of at least 60 years old. In the case of this Malvasía Riojana (not related to Greek or Italian Malvasías), the vineyard, planted in 1912, exceeds that. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW Amazing consistency, in a wine that is smartly aged, with a round and complex profile. Fresh but powerful in the mouth, it develops in a very elegant way, finishing slowly. Sarah Jane Evans MW Light…

JONATHAN CRISTALDI is Decanter’s Napa Valley correspondent. Based in California, he is a widely published writer on wine, spirits and beer, and is editor-at-large for both The Somm Journal and The Tasting Panel magazine ELIZA DUMAIS is a writer and editor based in New York. Focusing mainly on wine, food and travel, her work has appeared in Food &Wine, Epicurious, Travel +Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Vogue and elsewhere LAURA FOSTER is a widely published journalist and writer with a particular focus on spirits and cocktails. Formerly deputy editor of on-trade drinks title Imbibe, she has written for Stylist, The Telegraph and many other titles ANNA LEE CIIJIMA is aNew York-based wine journalist, writer and judge, also covering sake and shochu. Her work appears in the Chicago Tribune, New Wine Review…

For many people living in California’s Napa Valley, including me, the word ‘evacuate’ is no longer just a word. It’s a fear; a gnawing in the pit of your stomach. Come August in the valley, even as the vines have taken on that beautiful, pregnant-with-fruit look, those of us who live here start to bite our nails. Akind of climate PTSD descends over the collective mood. It’s wildfire season – a term I’d barely ever heard, never mind used, just a decade ago. I suppose that every wine lover thinks about the weather more than most other people. But having evacuated from my home four times over the last several years, I watch weather very differently now. I am wary. As the growing season unfolds, I can sense the winemakers…

In the mid-1960s, American businessman Donn Chappellet began doing some soulsearching and started to imagine life as a winemaker. He had co-founded Interstate United Corporation, a food services business that, at its apex, employed 8,000 workers and was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. Then, in 1966, at the age of 34, he sold his shares and moved his family from Los Angeles to a remote part of Napa Valley called Pritchard Hill, which is now home to a bevy of Napa giants, including Bryant Family, Colgin, David Arthur, Continuum, Realm, Ovid and, of course, Chappellet. Today, Chappellet is regarded as one of Napa Valley’s greatest assets, known for its powerful, structured, mineral-driven and ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignons. Beginning in September 2023, Chappellet has offered stocks of its 2019 Pritchard…

Within the last three decades, South Africa’s wine industry has undergone a revitalisation, embracing innovation and exploration as key pillars of its growth. From the past era of grape production aimed at bulk and brandy, to the wines of today that stand with some of the best globally, South Africa’s white wines are at the forefront. Chenin Blanc, one of the Cape’s headline varieties, has long been renowned in South Africa’s white wine scene. However, as evidenced by recent years’ Decanter World Wine Awards results, and echoing South Africa’s ongoing commitment to quality and development, there’s much more to explore. The diversity of white wines awarded top ratings at the competition continues to expand, ranging from world-class Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon, to Rhônestyle and proprietary blends. The range…

Vodka has been undergoing a quiet revolution in recent years. While all eyes have been on gin, vodka producers have changed their focus. Where much noise was previously made about the number of times a vodka was distilled and filtered – removing a lot of the character from the spirit – today, the focus is on the raw material used to make it, and maintaining some of that character. ‘The skill with vodka is retaining the impurities, or characteristics, from the raw material while achieving a purity,’ says Chris Baldwin, market manager UK/Europe and brand ambassador for Crystal Head Vodka. So what are the raw materials that are used to make vodka, and what characteristics do they produce? Vodka can be made from anything that can be used to make…

It’s 20 years since the protagonist in the movie Sideways – Miles, a dedicated Pinot-phile – expressed his utter disdain for Merlot. Not long after the film came out, figures released by market analyst Nielsen showed a 16% jump in sales of Pinot Noir against the previous year, along with a 2% decrease in sales of Merlot. A study carried out by economist Stephen Cuellar of Sonoma State University and two colleagues, and released four years after the movie, showed a similar effect. The small drop in Merlot sales, despite the devastating put-downs of Miles, may be an indication of the continued popularity of this variety with many consumers – it’s soft, approachable, easy to pronounce and can offer rich and deep, ripe fruit. At one time, it was even…

Bernard Remy, Carte Blanche, Champagne, France NV £28.65-£34.25 All About Wine, Quay Wines, Strictly Wine, Taste Fine Wines, Vinvm This Pinot Noir-dominant blend is light and elegant with a persistent mousse and fresh citrus palate. Toasty honeyed notes, whispers of stone fruit and yeasty brioche add interest. JS Alc 12% The Grange, Pink, Hampshire, England NV £38 Hawkins Bros This 60% Meunier, 40% Pinot Noir blend is the rosé’s ninth release and is based on the 2019 harvest. Toasty red cherry and red apple with a touch of cream, and a rounded texture. At the high end of brut, at 12g/L residual sugar, but the smoky, mineral freshness prevails over the sweet red fruits. SW Alc 12% Domaine Trapet, KTZM Riesling, Kientzheim, 94 Alsace, France 2021 B £29.95 Champagnes &…

Rioja and age go well together. That’s bottle and barrel age. There’s nothing like a mature gran reserva, layered with the memories of red fruit, autumn, wood smoke and wild herbs; smooth and very long-lived. Its age of maturation is firmly regulated: a minimum of two years in a 225-litre barrel, a minimum of two years in bottle, with five years’ ageing overall before release. What is curious, though, is that the age of the vines has never featured in the appreciation of the wine. Until now, that is. The wine world is talking about vineyards and old vines, and Rioja has joined the conversation. It deserves to. Something similar has already happened elsewhere in Spain – in Jerez. The glory years of Sherry’s late 20th century were led by…

Appellations of origin are regulated under a common law in the EU. You might think that they’re therefore very similar across the member states, but this is far from true. Italian appellations, for example, tend to designate specific wine styles, and their territories are often shared with other DOCs. For example, ‘Brunello di Montalcino’ is a Sangiovese-based aged red wine, but the territory is also home to other appellations with different specifications. In contrast, most Spanish appellations represent an individual territory, within which many different styles of wines can be made – and Rioja is a leading example of this philosophy. Under the Rioja DOCa, producers can make white, red, rosé, sparkling and sweet wines. In addition to this, 14 different grape varieties (five red and nine white) and any…

Tapas, pinchos or pintxos (as it is written in Rioja Alavesa and the rest of the Basque Country) come in various forms and sizes. But regardless of the wording, everyone agrees that they are small appetisers served alongside a drink. Understanding this is important. Locals usually have pinchos between 12.30pm and 2.30pm, before going home for lunch, or between 8pm and 9.30pm, just before dinner. Go for pinchos at 7pm and you might be faced with an empty counter instead of the colourful array of snacks you expected. Size does matter, so be suspicious of bars with lots of oversize pinchos – quantity usually means lower quality. Also bear in mind that a bar with quality pinchos doesn’t necessarily serve wines of equal quality. While many bodegas offer tastings with…

Alvaro Palacios, Quiñón de Valmira 2021 Beth Willard 95 Matthew Forster MW 96 Pierre Mansour 95 £260 (2022, ib) Lay &Wheeler This is a Garnacha-dominant blend (85%) from a parcel of organic bush vines, dry farmed, at 616m. It is a fabulous example of the freshness you get from Monte Yerga, and a reflection of the biodiversity of the region. To maintain the character of the vineyard, this is fermented with indigenous yeasts in wooden vats and only goes through a very gentle ageing process, spending just 12 months in large foudres. Beth Willard An elegant and poised Garnacha. Avery precise nose with red cherry fruit and flinty notes, the rich palate offers great depth of flavour and typicity. Oaky, woody spice is quite prominent on the finish. Matthew Forster…

The category of white Rioja includes acclaimed wines such as Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva and Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay – wines with exquisite elegance that can last longer than a human lifetime. There are also newer wines made in that model, as well as many other younger wines in a variety of styles, made from several different grape varieties. Probably because of this stylistic diversity, it can be hard for wine drinkers to pinpoint what ‘white Rioja’ is. This panel tasting was excellent on two counts. First, because of the good scores. Second – and probably more importantly – because it helps us establish a definition of the most promising white Rioja style. We tasted a large number of wines, across a range of styles. Some were built on…

Abel Mendoza, Viura 2022 PBT 95 SJE 94 PM 93 £34.95-£37 Alliance Wine, Uncorked Alluring aromas of white flowers, with a touch of spice and leesy oak. Powerful and weighty in a plump style. Restrained lemon and lime fruit, spicy and full of complexity. Drink 2024-2037 Alc 14.5% Bodega 220 Cántaras, Macerado Limitada Viura 2019 PBT 94 SJE 94 PM 93 £20-£22 Cépage, Joseph Barnes Wines, Les Caves de Pyrene, Vinebud, Vino Vero Mature notes of leather, spice and honey. Slightly oxidative, but clean and particular. Fruit and spice on the palate with a mineral, saline aspect. Drink 2024-2039 Alc 13% Abel Mendoza, Jarrarte 2022 PBT 92 SJE 93 PM 93 £13.80-£16.99 Alliance Wine, Bush Vines, Vinvm, Virgin Wines Fine floral aromas and creamy, white fruit. Plump, soft and appealing,…

The best Rioja wines are designed to be aged, first in barrel and then in bottle, for many years. Some of these wines, produced in exceptional vintages, develop great complexity over decades and stay in pristine shape even after a century or more. Such acclaimed vintages from the 20th century include 1948, 1952, 1955, 1964, 1982, 1994 and 1995. The 21st century began with one of the greatest vintages ever, 2001, and since then it has produced other top vintages such as 2004, 2005, 2010 and 2012. Among the most recent vintages, 2021 and, most of all, 2019, are presented as great, but we’ll need to wait a couple more years to see if that promise becomes a reality. The vintage guide below should be considered as a general guide.…