Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2025 i Decanter

For the second month running I’m going to quote UK importer Doug Wregg, this time on orange wine – see our cover story, p20. ‘It gives me everything I want from a red wine, when I don’t actually want to drink a red wine.’ Unfamiliar as a style to most of us a decade ago, orange wine has moved into the mainstream, with most retailers offering at least one example. (I’m a fan of Bonny Doon’s Le Cigare Orange, from Tesco, and Maturana’s Naranjo Torontel from Corney & Barrow – both under £20.) I have to confess, though, that I’d never heard of ‘blouge’ (see ‘Ask Decanter’, p96). Maybe I don’t hang out in edgy wine bars often enough. Are these wines, a blend of red and white grapes (blanc…

Droughts, heat spikes, hailstorms, wildfires: the catastrophic effects of climate change on the world’s vineyards are evident. There is some talk of ‘solutions’ and more of mitigation, but the truth is that hundreds of billions of tonnes of fossil carbon is now squatting in our atmosphere that wasn’t there in the pre-phylloxera era. And it’s stuck. Nature’s removal of carbon from the atmosphere is considerably slower than the rate at which we’re adding it. The atmosphere, remember, is the critical part of terroir. Soils and landforms are typically stable over brief geological periods of a few thousand years. Extreme climate change, by contrast, may render our greatest vineyards unusable in two human lifetimes. All of our wine places, consequently, are changing. Wine’s pleasure map is blurring. ‘Wine’s pleasure map is…

1 06 Vodka Rosé £34.99-£42/70cl Amazon, Hic, Master of Malt, The Bottle Club, The Whisky Exchange A perfect choice for wine lovers, this French winter wheat vodka from the Comte de Grasse distillery captures the essence of Provençal rosé. It was created by Master Distiller and aromatician Marie-Anne Contamin using a technique based on methods used in the fragrance industry to extract flavour molecules and pigments from an organic Côte de Provence wine. The result is an aroma and taste profile that will be familiar to rosé drinkers, with delicate strawberry notes, subtle florality, peach and a creamy texture. Alcohol 37.5% 2 Absolut Haring Artist-Edition £28/70cl Amazon, Harvey Nichols Swedish vodka Absolut was launched in 1979, with its iconic design based on 18th-century apothecary bottles. Its special editions are always…

Family faithful TINA GELLIE I recently caught up with representatives of two notable US wineries in London: Quilceda Creek from Washington and California’s Spottswoode. Both are pioneering, family-owned properties renowned for their structured, ageworthy Cabernets. Quilceda Creek was founded in 1978 by Alex Golitzin (nephew of André Tchelistcheff, the father of modern American winemaking); son Paul took over in 1993. With general manager Scott Lloyd I tasted Quilceda Creek’s Palengat 2021 (US$210 Benchmark Wine Group), Galitzine 2018 (US$185 CultWine) and the three latest vintages of Columbia Valley Cabernet. UK importer Jeroboams has sold out of the 2021, but the 2020 (£205) and new 2022 (£225) are silky and exotic, with concentrated blue fruit. Down in St Helena, Mary Novak bought the 1882-founded Spottswoode estate in 1972 and her daughter Beth…

Chile’s rich diversity of quality red wine styles was on full display at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2025, with a host of top medals for producers in many regions – including two highly coveted Best in Show accolades (see below). A deep-rooted vineyard heritage and wide variety of terroirs and microclimates in this long, narrow country, which nestles between the Pacific ocean and the Andes mountains, have provided the perfect foundation for a new generation of talented winemakers to flourish on the international stage. Efforts to preserve and revitalise old-vine plantings in historic grape-growing regions can be seen in superbly balanced, earthy and juicy reds from varieties including Cinsault, País and Carignan. Carmenère, too, has thrived in Chile during a renaissance for the variety that began in the 1990s.…

Rioja, 1991. Priorat, 2001. These are the moments the two wine regions rose from the status of DO (denominación de origen) to DOCa (denominación de origen calificada, or DOQ: denominació d’origen qualificada in Catalan). It’s etched on the memory of every Spanish sommelier. They were hailed as milestones, proof that Spain’s wine hierarchy could evolve. But more than 20 years later, one can’t help asking: has it, really? Since 2001, no other Spanish region has joined Rioja and Priorat at the summit. Are we to believe that Jerez, Montilla-Moriles, Ribera del Duero, Bierzo, Rías Baixas or Valdeorras are somehow unworthy? Is Spain condemned to remain the ‘country of two DOCas’ for ever? Surely not. The country’s heritage (and wines) tell a richer story – one that deserves broader recognition. I’m…

Arguments over why – or whether – global warming is happening abound; there are more than a few scenarios out there, and increasingly popular are theories in which human activity isn’t responsible for any of it: wonderfully convenient. But it’s hard (impossible?) to argue with the fact that the climate has changed and is likely to continue to do so. Those of us working in the wine industry have long been the canary in this coal mine, squawking and getting increasingly worried as average temperatures – measured on a daily basis by weather stations in every major wine region and tracked at a macro level over decades – continue to climb across the world. With this has come the rise of previously overlooked cooler-climate wine regions and a re-evaluation of…

NATASHA HUGHES MW Who? A freelance writer, educator and consultant, Natasha graduated as a Master of Wine in 2014, winning the MW Institute’s Outstanding Achievement award in the process. Her book The Wines of Beaujolais was published in September 2025 (£35 Académie du Vin Library) What, & why read? After researching her new book on Beaujolais, Natasha knows the region like the back of her hand. The scenery is beautiful, the wine scene is exciting, but it remains off-radar – the perfect combination to entice any wine lover. Don’t miss Natasha’s tips for a memorable visit ELAINE MAGUIRE O’CONNOR Who? A writer and consultant from Dublin, Elaine’s work is focused on the intersection of law and culture, with a particular emphasis on intellectual property law. She is passionate about preventing…

It’s surprising, in a sense, that the category of English wine that’s the first to establish itself as seriously good is the most expensive: the bubbly. Our still whites haven’t yet quite produced show models to follow; and reds, often struggling to reach full ripeness, are so far generally considered a bit thin. The best Essex Pinot Noir, notably from the Danbury ridge, which looks south over the valley of the Crouch river, has everything you can hope for – and costs as much as good red Burgundy. You don’t save money by staying close to home. I do feel solidarity, though, with the courageous growers who stake so much on challenging history and the English weather. Over the centuries, it has been our (that is British) taste and thirst…

You’ve just got to care,’ says vineyard manager Tereza Byrne, adding with a laugh, ‘I know all the vines individually.’ This meticulousness is a large part of why The Landing’s wines are turning heads. When US-based Kiwi Peter Cooper bought a spectacular 400ha coastal farm on Northland’s Purerua peninsula in the north of New Zealand’s North Island in 1999, the plan was simply to create house sites for family and friends. Twenty-six years later, The Landing has become something far more, with its 13ha vineyard and winery shifting the quality paradigm of Northland wine, underpinned by a deep commitment to land, history and sustainability. The site itself is extraordinary. Overlooking the Bay of Islands, it includes six private beaches, sweeping hill country and layers of human history, including pā sites…

Winemaker Daniel Estrin came to make the wines and manage the estate vineyards at Oregon’s Cristom after a nine-year stint working in California alongside Sonoma County legend Ted Lemon (see profile in our September issue). He grew up in the Willamette Valley, but didn’t discover wine until he left. Having spent the early part of his career as a kind of adventure surf and snowboard bum, Estrin is now equally passionate about growing and crafting some of the country’s top Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Estrin is a seriously strong cyclist with a penchant for custom steel bicycles, of which he owns four – a mix of mountain and gravel bikes. On a recent visit to the estate, he led me on the most unusual vineyard tour I’ve ever had, as…

I often get asked if I’m a sommelier. The answer is always, firmly, ‘No.’ Sommeliers are at the frontline when it comes to wine, guiding diners with myriad requirements through their list. They have to translate wine-speak for those who simply want a glass of something tasty. They have to translate non-wine-speak into something the table will like. They have to navigate different tastes, budgets, knowledge levels – all with a smile. It’s thus unsurprising, perhaps, that many sommeliers slip into writing – taking their skills from the table to the page. Two new books graced my postbox recently, both from somms of serious class. First up is Jordan Salcito’s Smart Mouth: Wine Essentials for You, Me and Everyone We Know (£30 Ten Speed Press, October 2025). Salcito has worked…

It’s an easy sequence to remember: ’05, ’10, ’15, ’20. All were great vintages in the northern Rhône, but some – patricularly 2005 and 2010 – have been agonisingly slow to mature. This enjoyable tasting of nearly 50 wines from 2015 showed that the vintage deserves the hype that it received on release. What’s more, most of them are opening up and drinking well already. The preceding winter was rainy, topping up the water table. Spring was damp, too, and warm; the season got off to an early start. All of that water proved crucial, as 2015 turned out to be the hottest year on record after 2003. Yields were generous and the grapes were in perfect condition at harvest. Despite the summer heat, the style of 2015 can be…

The Wine Society, The Society’s Saumur Brut, Loire, France NV £10.76 The Wine Society Traditional-method sparkling doesn’t get better value than this. Made by Gratien & Meyer, with 15 months on the lees, this fills the mouth with crunchy pink orchard fruit, lively citrus and juicy cantaloupe melon. A rim of oyster shell salinity adds texture and depth. IS Alc 12% Justerini & Brooks, Mosel Riesling, Germany 2023 £13.68 Justerini & Brooks Waxy and stony, with daisy and lime on the nose. Mineral on the palate, showing nectarine fruit and white pepper, with lime-zest bitterness and just a touch of residual sugar. A cleansing freshness carries through to the finish. Crafted by Fritz Haag. SW Alc 11.5% Cantina di Custoza, Custodia Superiore, Custoza, Veneto, Italy 2024 £13 Valvona & Crolla…

Rothschild cellar yields 19th-century gems A collection of 19th-century Bordeaux wines from a Rothschild family member’s cellar has been a highlight of New York’s autumn auction season. Zachys auction house said that every lot found a buyer after it offered the wine collection of the late Jacqueline (de Rothschild) Piatigorsky. Total sales hit $11.16m and several lots soared above estimates. ‘The opening 35 lots set world records,’ said Zachys. A magnum of Château Lafite Rothschild’s celebrated 1870 vintage sold for $387,500, including buyer’s premium, eclipsing a pre-sale high estimate of $75,000. That’s a record auction price for the wine in magnum, said Zachys. Lafite 1870 is regarded as one of the finest wines of its era, produced just two years after the Rothschild family acquired this Bordeaux first growth estate.…

SARAH JANE EVANS MW Who? A widely published journalist, author and consultant, Sarah Jane is a Contributing Editor to Decanter. She is chair of Spain’s Gran Orden de Caballeros del Vino, and her latest book The Wines of Central and Southern Spain was recently published by Académie du Vin Library (£35) What, & why read? It’s hard to fathom how Málaga, a region steeped in viticultural history, could have fallen into oblivion. Evans explores its modern-day reemergence and the characterful wines – and talented producers – behind the rediscovery NOAH CHICHESTER Who? A freelance wine writer and educator specialising in Galician wine, Noah is based in New York City. He created winesofgalicia.com having spent four years in Spain immersed in the region’s wine and culture What, & why read? Noah…

Those of us who work in and with Spanish wine go on, passionately and relentlessly, about how exciting the Spanish wine scene is, how it has evolved dramatically in the last two decades and how it is home to some of the world’s (often overlooked) standout producers – those now crafting the present and future classics. This relentlessness is driven by an ever renewed sense of wonder: discovering Spanish wine is an ongoing journey, punctuated by reliable favourites and offbeat surprises, never predictable and always enjoyable. The country’s history, geology and topography have given rise to terroir diversity and viticultural singularity – amplified by equally diverse, vibrant communities of growers and winemakers. The urge to convert those who roam the world unaware of Spain’s wine riches stems from the fact…

We gathered for this tasting on a Wednesday in late August. The weather couldn’t make up its mind, with heavy downpours followed by periods of bright sunshine. The tasting was equally variable. This tasting had a few highlights but was generally a little disappointing. However, it should be noted that there are some excellent wines in this broad category that were not submitted: for instance, old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon from Navarra offers impressive ageing potential, and there are wines dotted around the coast which have a truly Mediterranean character. The problem with many of the wines that we did have in this tasting was twofold: the unsuitability of the varieties to their chosen terroir, and the stylistic choices made by the producers. In particular, the Pinot Noirs were problematic, failing to…

Raventós i Blanc, Conca del Riu Anoia Blanc de Blancs, Penedès, Catalonia £25.99 Hay Wines, Hedonism, Hic, WineTrust Why? Produced from Macabeu, Xarel.lo, Parellada and, since 2023, Malvasia de Sitges. Crunchy fruit, a flinty lining and delicious texture make this an elegant yet no-nonsense fizz – very much like its winemaker Pepe Raventòs. When? I love opening this on a Saturday afternoon while cooking. It then transitions easily into the first course of a fish dinner. With whom? With my partner, while preparing a meal together. Paired with? All things seafood, soft cheeses, freshly baked bread dripping with olive oil. Oysters are a must. Ines Salpico Altos de Torona, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Galicia £15-£19 Highbury Vintners, The Vineyard Belfast, Waitrose Why? With its fresh citrus, floral notes and a gentle…

European wine culture under threat Wine’s place in the intensifying debate around alcohol and health policy has returned to the spotlight in recent weeks amid a high-level meeting at the United Nations (UN). In a rare public appeal prior to a key UN meeting on preventing and controlling noncommunicable diseases (NCDs), such as cancer and heart disease, the prestigious Académie Internationale du Vin (AIV) warned against ‘reducing wine to a mere health risk, thereby forgetting its cultural, social and human dimension’. AIV membership spans 20 countries and includes some of the world’s best-known winemakers, such as Italy’s Angelo Gaja, Paul Draper of California’s Ridge Vineyards and Jean-Pierre Perrin of Château de Beaucastel. To ‘denormalise’ wine would jeopardise a cultural heritage encompassing eight millennia of human history, said the AIV in…

The word terroir is everywhere: on tasting sheets and in marketing copy and articles. Far from being a unique property of certain distinguished vineyards, it seems as though everyone is focused on expressing their terroir, sometimes to the tune of millions of bottles a year. Terroir as a concept originated in the Middle Ages, when describing a wine as having ‘the goût de terroir’ was often disparaging: literally, the taste of dirt. Appropriate, then, that terroir today has become as common as muck. Yet as late as the 20th century, it was of little interest to wine writers. George Saintsbury’s Notes on a Cellar-Book (published 1920) doesn’t mention it. In Alexis Lichine’s Wines of France (1951) there’s an index entry for terrine de lapin but not for terroir; André Simon…

France is awash with bubbles. And no, I’m not talking about Champagne; I’m talking about Crémant, the bottle-fermented sparkling wines made outside Champagne, across eight French regions. From Alsace in the northeast down to Burgundy, then skirting the Alps in Jura and Savoie, south to Die and Limoux, across to Bordeaux and finally the Loire valley, these Crémant appellations trace an effervescent tour of France. They look back on various sparkling wine traditions and come with delicious regional accents. Sparkling wines have long been popular in France. Legend has it that they’ve been made in Limoux since the mid-16th century, although evidence of the wine’s effervescence is considerably younger. It was the early success of Champagne and its processes that inspired others. Négociant and winemaker Joseph-Jules Lausseure made Bourgogne Mousseux…

In the world of luxury goods, there has traditionally been one golden rule for avoiding counterfeits: purchase from a reputable seller. But recent raids in Europe have put a question mark over just how reliable that advice is when it comes to the world of fine wine. In October last year, police from France, Italy and Switzerland dismantled a criminal network that was, according to the report from anti-organised crime body Europol at the time, selling a significant number of faked bottles purporting to be French grand cru estate-level wines for up to €15,000 each. The bottles were so convincing that they were reportedly being sold, unwittingly, by ‘honest wine traders’ across the globe. It’s no longer just a case of rogue bad actors – the problem runs deep within…

Books for whisky lovers Two new books will lure you deeper into the world of whisky – whether you’re a novice or a devoted fan. For beginners, Kristiane Westray’s Savour (£12.99 Bloomsbury Publishing) is billed as a guide to tasting and exploring whiskies of the world. Prefaced with short sections on how whisky is made and how to taste, plus useful tips on identifying your own taste preferences, the book takes readers on an easily digestible tour of global whisky styles, highlighting top distilleries and bottles to try. Meanwhile, whisky geeks will enjoy settling down with a favourite dram and a copy of The Whiskey Bible by Noah Rothbaum (£35 Workman Publishing). Beginning with a Whiskey 101, Rothbaum dives into American, Scotch, Irish, Canadian and Japanese styles with relish, in…

AskDecanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com Red and white Q I’ve seen the term ‘blouge’ crop up a few times recently on wine lists and in independent wine shops. Can you explain what on earth this is? Amanda Vincent A Chloe Faure, wine and food writer, replies: While still niche, the term ‘blouge wine’ has begun to appear at a few indie wine shops, and you’ll likely see more of it in coming years. After the rise of orange, which brought more depth and ageing potential to white wines, and pét-nat, which brought the fun back to sparkling wines, blouge answers a growing demand for lighter reds. A contraction of ‘blanc’ and ‘rouge’, from the French – literally meaning white and…

Despite a viticultural history that dates back to the Etruscans, Tuscany’s Maremma region still flies under the radar. Quietly ascending as a regional powerhouse, it remains largely overshadowed by its more celebrated Tuscan neighbours. Yet beneath this understated veneer, Maremma forges a distinct identity, producing wines that reflect its coastal terroir and spirit of tradition and innovation. With its varied climate and cool sea breezes, the Maremma fosters a remarkable stylistic range, from rich yet fresh whites to traditional and maverick fruit-driven reds and rosés. Varieties such as Vermentino, Sangiovese and the local Ciliegiolo thrive here. Yet while we had high expectations for this tasting, the results fell regrettably short*. Among the 73 wines tasted, a handful stood out, but top scores reached 92 points and Outstanding ratings (95pts plus)…

Telmont, Réserve Brut, Champagne, France NV £45-£59 Widely available Moreish and opulent while retaining zesty freshness. Yellow apple, ripe peach, buttered toast and frangipane fill the palate, with vanilla, apple blossom, jasmine and star anise. Creamy, soft, persistent mousse. Finishes with a lively twist of lemon curd and grapefruit zest. IS Alc 12% Zuccardi, Polígonos Semillon, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina 2024 £30-£32.70 Loki Wine, Shelved Wine Delicious and elegant. Quince, melon, hay, camomile and pear peel fill the mouth with gossamer intensity. Flint and wild flowers add finesse and definition. Finishes with wet stone and fennel. This will surely improve in bottle. IS Alc 12.5% Nocturne, Sheoak Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, Western Australia 2022 £37-£41.70 London End Wines, Shelved Wine, Vinvm Aromas of dark black fruit, tar, star anise and…

WINERY PET OF THE MONTH NAME Puppi BREED Golden retriever AGE Four OWNER Bárbara Palacios, owner of Bodega Barbarot in Rioja LIKES Cooling off in cold grass, digging holes in the park, playing with other dogs DISLIKES Bath time, getting into the car, hot days HOBBIES Chasing rabbits in the vineyard, playing with tennis balls, sitting in puddles FAVOURITE FOOD Sausages, jamón serrano CHEEKY HABITS Lying across Bárbara’s feet when she’s on the computer, and stealing her clothes PARTY TRICK Finding hidden tennis balls CHOCOLATE & WINE MATCH Chocolate type Dark milk (50%+ cocoa) Wine style Orange Why it works It’s difficult to find great pairings for those who love milk chocolate and/or white wine. All too often, the wine’s acid clashes with the sweetness of the milk. This pairing…