Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2015 i delicious

I RETURNED TO Italy for the first time in a while, and fell in love with the country all over again – as I hope you do with this month ’ s special Italian issue. My foodie hit list was guided by readers and contributors making brilliant recommendations in real time on Instagram as I moved around. Lake House ’ s Alla Wolf-Tasker spotted my post from Milan and recommended I try the risotto alla Milanese at Ristorante da Giacomo (“just opposite” from where I was standing, she said from the other side of the world). A restaurateur friend from Brisbane pointed me towards Ravello 18, “the best spot in the city”, and the gnocchi did not disappoint. Our contributor Silvia Colloca is another expert on Milan, having grown up…

INSTA OF THE MONTH #MAKEITDELICIOUS Christmas in July! (Valli’s Kitchen Diary, July 15, p 68 ) Valli’s boned and rolled turkey, green beans with pomegranate, the best roast potatoes and marinated red cabbage slaw. Served with my own gluhwein. @ceinwenj birthday bake I needed to find the perfect cake for my mum’s 60th. I tried out the stout chocolate cake with butterscotch sauce (Wicked, July 15, p 82). Yum! Rebecca Lemm one-pot wonder Colin Fassnidge’s pot-roast chicken (Entertaining, July 15, p 67) is perfect for a winter’s day. Alison Umpleby yes marco! Thanks to Vic’s Meat Market for hosting Marco Pierre White, who did a Q&A while cooking a delicious skirt steak. Dinner cooked by Marco – my life is complete. @jeanstravels Duncan Welgemoed’s chocolate & spearmint caramel…

OYSTERS Most oysters in Australia are pre-shucked, which is a shame, as there’s nothing like the flavour of a freshly shucked oyster in its own salty liquor. We have three commercial varieties in Australia – the Sydney Rock, Pacific and the native Angasi oyster – but even among the same variety flavours differ from river to river and estuary to estuary, so try plenty and try them often. Oysters handle delicate cooking and can be steamed lightly in their own juices, grilled until they pop open, or slipped into soups. ARTICHOKES Edible thistle may sound like an oxymoron, but artichokes – immature flower buds from a thistle variety – are just that. Boil and serve whole with melted butter or vinaigrette, peeling the leaves and dipping the tender bases, then…

Just one? I head to Caffe Cova in Milan for an espresso and panettone; Generi Alimentari Da Panino in Modena for a mortadella and provolone panino; a no-name canteen in Porretta Terme (the town where Mario Batali learnt to make pasta) for fresh ricotta pasta envelopes in an impossibly vibrant sugo; Cracco in Milan for Carlo Cracco’s coddled eggs with white truffle; Mario Batali’s Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca in New York for parfait-filled ravioli with a thick balsamic sauce; Pizza e Mozzarella Bar in Adelaide for pizza; La Stalla, just outside the walls of Assisi, for their grilled smoked cheese (a sort of local scamorza ) bubbling straight off the wood barbecue; Roscioli deli in Rome for 12-hour-old mozzarella from Puglia; Campo de’ Fiori in Rome for tomato-topped focaccia fresh…

WHILE THE ITALIANS MIGHT CLAIM that there are over 310 different pasta forms, there are probably far more pasta dishes that aren’t Italian. Especially given that many of the more famous shapes and guises, such as pasta bake (pasticcio), dried pasta and gnocchi, were originally Greek, Palestinian or Arab. You’ll find Arab-born pasta dishes across the Mediterranean, whether a Valencian fideua (a seafood paella made with short thin spaghettini-like noodles rather than calasparra rice) or Egyptian kushari (a street-food favourite with macaroni dancing among rice, lentils and caramelised onions). In fact, in the 15th century the common name for noodles wasn’t ‘pasta’ but ‘vermicelli’ and these skinny noodles span the world, too. Today, vermicelli noodles appear in India as crunchy fried sev or cooked in coconut milk to make a…

BROCCOLINI, MUSHROOM & RICOTTA CONCHIGLIE SERVES 4 400g conchiglie (large pasta shells)2 tbs extra virgin olive oil250g button mushrooms,very finely chopped4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained,chopped500g ricotta 1/2 cup (125ml) milk80g smoked cheddar cheese, grated2 bunches broccolini, very finelychoppedFinely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon Preheat oven to 200°C. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Add the conchiglie and cook for 8 minutes or until almost tender, then drain. Meanwhile, heat oil in a frypan over high heat. Add mushrooms, and cook, stirring, for 4 minutes or until golden. Stir through anchovy and cook for a further 1 minute or until anchovy dissolves. Remove from heat. Combine the ricotta and milk, then add half the mushroom mixture, cheddar and broccolini. Season, then fill conchiglie with ricotta…

It’s a sight many are familiar with, restaurateur Maurice Terzini playing host at either of his Sydney venues: the iconic Icebergs Dining Room and Bar with its breathtaking views over Bondi Beach or at pizzeria hotspot Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta. But when Maurice isn’t front of house he’s finalising plans for new Da Orazio venues, the, as yet, unnamed Sydney CBD site and Da Maria in Kerobokan, Bali, where his clothing line, Ten Pieces, is also produced. So, it’s a rare moment when Maurice and family, son Sylvester, 23, along with Maurice’s partner, fashion designer Lucy Hinckfuss, and their son, Cesare, 20 months, find the time to share a quiet family meal at home. “I opened the restaurants because I love being in restaurants. I enjoy serving people and…

I HAVE BEEN TRAVELLING TO ITALY regularly for nearly forty years and each time it manages to surprise me. On my most recent trip, I headed to Veneto to host my week-long Italian cooking class. It’s here where much of the country’s rice is cultivated for risottos and pumpkins grow in the fertile marshy terrain, their succulent flesh used for the famous tortelli di zucca, which I’ve used as inspiration for my pumpkin tortellini. And of course in Venice, by the sea, you’ll find Italian seafood dishes like risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) and spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). From our base at the beautiful Villa Casagrande in Cison di Valmarino we spent our days exploring Italian cuisine during my twice-daily cooking classes, then enjoying the…

8am ESPRESSO HIT Get your buzz on with a quick and lethal Milanese espresso hit. Stand at the bar as the locals do, or take a seat at Taveggia (Via Uberto Visconti di Modrone, 2) for a quick cup and a fresh brioche (they serve more than 25 types of brioche here!). 10am GRAND DAME Wind your way to the Duomo (Piazza del Duomo, Milano), the city’s grand Gothic cathedral. Go early to beat the crowds and walk to the top of its wedding cake-perfect spires. After working up an appetite, head across the square to Peck (Via Spadari, 9), Milan’s legendary providore offering a serious selection of charcuterie, cheese, caviar, fresh pasta, and wine from their cellar. 11am SHOP TILL YOU DROP For seven floors of shopping, high-tail it…

To impress, I head to BILLY KWONG (pictured). The food, wine and service are impeccable and it’s a fun vibe. The last restaurant I ate at was THE TOWN MOUSE in Melbourne. The smoked pork jowl (left) was fantastic. The city I’d eat my last meal on earth in? ROME , for the most seasonally rich and respectful cuisine around. My favourite kitchen gadget is a BOTTLE OPENER . It helps me drink my beer. AFTER A FOODIE BLOWOUT, I LIKE TO RESTORE BALANCE WITH A NEGRONI FROM KINGSTON PUBLIC BAR & KITCHEN IN NEWTOWN. IT'S MY ULTIMATE COCKTAIL AND THEY DO A GREAT JOB AT IT. The best spot for a caffeine fix? SAMPLE COFFEE in Surry Hills – straight up, the best filter coffee around. In Italy, it’s…

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SILVIA COLLOCA SILVIA TAKES OVER SINCE JOINING DELICIOUS. AS A REGULAR CONTRIBUTOR, @SILVIACOLLOCA HAS BROUGHT THAT LITTLE TOUCH OF ITALY, SHOWING US HOW TO MAKE EVERYTHING FROM SILKY PASTAS AND COMFORTING SOUPS TO THE BEST BREADS AND CAKES. TO CELEBRATE HER LOVE AFFAIR WITH THE FOOD OF HER MOTHER COUNTRY, SILVIA WILL BE TAKING OVER OUR INSTAGRAM ON SEPTEMBER 2, SHARING SOME FAVOURITE SNAPS FROM HER ITALIAN-INSPIRED CUCINA. IT WILL BE AMORE! VALLI’S VENICE PHOTO ALBUM Stay connected to our Facebook page to see more travel snaps from Valli’s recent trip to Italy’s floating city of Venice, where she hosted an idyllic week-long cooking school – highlights include Rialto Market tour and fresh seafood recipes. Plus, download our new enhanced App for exclusive digital recipes. SHARE AND WIN! Exciting news…

It was a sparkling night at the Richard Wherrett Studio in Sydney’s Walsh Bay as we celebrated the launch of Moët & Chandon’s Grand Vintage Rosé 2006 with Moët & Chandon chef de cave Benoit Gouez and a star-studded line-up of Sydney’s most dedicated Champagne connoisseurs, including actor Marta Dusseldorp, model Jesinta Campbell, Anna Heinrich from The Bachelor and Channel 10’s Natarsha Belling. Chef Lauren Murdoch’s French-inspired menu was designed to be served with bubbles only and included an elegant poached tiger prawn with butternut pumpkin puree and toasted almond crumb, followed by confit duck with Puy lentils and citrus vinaigrette, and cardamom pannacotta with an orange, date and pistachio salad. Magnifique! @deliciousAUS Tag yourself and your friends at our events using #makeitdelicious…

Seasonal eating and a farm-to-table ethic are the current fashion, but you wouldn’t say Stefano Manfredi is just catching up. It’s more like the trend is finally catching up with him. “It’s what I’ve always done, in thirty plus years of having restaurants,” he says. “The seasons are really the thing that inform me and my menus.” Coming from a time in Australia when mushrooms were only buttons or caps, potatoes were either washed or dirty, and there was still a preference for mutton over lamb, it was the prospect of having a garden and access to local produce that convinced Stefano to become involved in the regional high-end resort and restaurant Bells at Killcare. “It’s in my DNA, as it is in most Italians,” he says. “My dad always…

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LET’S FACE IT, our recent obsession with Frankenfoods not only flies in the face of tradition, it puts the case for devolution on the table. Cronuts, hot-dog eclairs, waffle tacos, meat pie-stuffed pizzas... When I feel like a pie I don’t usually reach for the phone and order a pizza. But, sticking to tradition inhibits the opportunity to discover something new I hear you say. A lack of tradition has allowed Australian winemakers the freedom to throw caution to the wind. It’s resulted in some smashing grape juice, and the world has taken note. Given the right circumstances, perhaps tradition should be challenged. What history has taught us is that no matter the technique, there is one ingredient that makes the difference in food: love. Who knew this gruff guy…

CHEAT’S BACCALA MANTECATO WITH FENNEL OIL SERVES 6 AS A STARTER This cheat’s version of a classic Venetian cicchetti (bar snack) makes the perfect salty and creamy starter. 400g can cannellini beans, rinsed, drained15 marinated white anchovies in vinegar(boquerones), drained2 garlic cloves, crushedJuice of 1 lemon1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurtFennel fronds and grissini, to serve FENNEL OIL 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted For fennel oil, heat oil and fennel seeds in a small saucepan over medium-low heat for 3 minutes or until fragrant. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. Whiz the cannellini beans, anchovies, garlic, lemon juice and oil in a food processor until very smooth. Whisk in the yoghurt to combine. Season. Spread onto…

To fit in with work at the restaurant I write my recipes in the morning. I start at ten thirty and the thought of lunch becomes a growing pleasure as I get hungrier. It’s around then that my heart turns fondly to thoughts of the Eastern Mediterranean, the olive oil, the tomatoes, the red onions, the wild oregano, the lemons, the sweet fish, the lean lamb, the wine, the olives, the capers and the garlic. I forget the richly spiced dishes of my last journey to India and I think instead of the lightly aromatic quality of a simple fish stew of John Dory and rascasse made with onions, garlic, white wine, potatoes and lots of olive oil from Pylos in Greece. It was thoughts from Yeats’ poem, Sailing to…

RICOTTA CHEESECAKE WITH ROASTED BLUEBERRIES SERVES 10 250g cream cheese, softened225ml maple syrup2 eggsFinely grated zest of 1 orange,plus the juice of 2 oranges1 tbs each cornflour and ground cinnamon1kg fresh ricotta1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped2 x 125g punnets blueberries1/2 cup (75g) roasted hazelnuts, chopped Preheat oven to 180°C. Beat cream cheese and1/2 cup (125ml) maple syrup with electric beaters on high speed for 5 minutes or until combined. Add eggs, orange zest, cornflour, cinnamon and ricotta, and beat for a further 5 minutes or until smooth and combined. Transfer to a 1.3L baking dish, then bake for 40 minutes or until golden and firm, but centre has a slight wobble. Cool, then chill for 3 hours. Before serving, preheat oven to 180°C. Combine orange juice, vanilla pod and…

FATHER’S DAY FATHER’S DAY LUNCH Sfincione with cavolo nero, speck and pecorino, p 76 Tyrrell’s Belford Single Vineyard Semillon 2009 Mussel & artichoke cavatelli, p 118 Pierro Chardonnay 2013 Ricotta cheesecake with roasted blueberries, p 124 Lillypilly Noble Blend Family Reserve 2008 “What’s not to love about a culture that can indulge a serious sweet addiction from espresso o’clock to biscotti hour?” Shannon Harley, managing editor TREAT YOURSELF PASTICCERRIA AT HOME Espresso madeleines, p 108 Torta di riso (rice pudding cake with pine nut praline), p 28 Gluten-free pistachio amaretti morbidi, p 127 “This riesling will make the sauce for the polpette sing, while a fruity, peppery shiraz matches spicy chorizo. To finish, this luscious semillon matches the gelato beautifully.” John Casella, managing director, Casella Family Brands VIVA…

ZUPPA DI OSTRICHE E PATATE (OYSTER & POTATO SOUP) SERVES 4 AS A STARTER Ideally, the oysters should be freshly shucked and their liquor strained through muslin to remove any grit. This liquor is then used to add extra flavour to the soup. 100ml olive oil1 onion, sliced2 garlic cloves, crushed2 celery stalks, sliced400g desiree potatoes, peeled, sliced1 bay leaf 1/2 cup (125ml) dry white wine24 rock oysters, shucked, liquor strainedand reservedMicro rocket, to garnish Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add onion, garlic and1/4 tsp salt, and cook, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until softened. Increase heat to medium-high, then add celery, potato, bay leaf and wine, and cook for 3 minutes or until wine is evaporated. Add 3 cups (750ml) water and bring to the boil. Reduce…

cheese PLEASE Longtime Darlinghurst haunt LUCIO PIZZERIA, known for its hyper-popular pizza, is bringing a slice of Napoli to Sydney’s booming Zetland. The larger space means no queuing for their signature half ’n’ half margherita pizza and calzone, so you’ll need another excuse to pull up a stool at their aperitivo and mozzarella bar. Sip on Aperol spritz and try their cheeses, including bufula classica , bufula affumicata (smoked) and burrata. House-made spaghetti and Italian wines round out the full menu, and dessert? We’re talking Nutella pizza, tiramisu and baked ricotta cake. Be sure to save room. TABLE TALK 1 Chef-owners Shaun Quade and John-Paul Fiechtner are attempting to revolutionise dining at LUME in south Melbourne, where photos are discouraged and you won’t see a menu until you’ve eaten. With…

MARK LABROOY AND DARREN ROBERTSON of Three Blue Ducks fame sure know how to live la dolce vita with restaurants spanning the coast from Sydney‘s Bronte to the lush Byron Bay hinterland. Their latest project is The Farm, where a pared-back paddock-to-table approach is taking food back to its roots (to much acclaim – the boys are serving 1500 covers on the weekend). Here’s a recipe from their latest book, The Blue Ducks’ Real Food. RHUBARB, ORANGE & ROSEMARY CAKE SERVES 8 120g unsalted butter, softened3/4 cup (155g) raw sugar, plus 3 tsp extra2 eggs, lightly beaten1/2 cup (50g) almond mealFinely grated zest of1/2 orange,plus juice of 1 orange2/3 cup (100g) plain flour1 tsp baking powder250g rhubarb stems, cut into 2cm pieces1 rosemary sprig, broken into piecesCreme fraiche, to serve…

family ties Nebbiolo, sangiovese, montepulciano, sagrantino... they’re just a few of the talked-about Italian-accented grape varieties making waves in Australia. It’s a quiet revolution, but one that we’re welcoming; said grapes seem to work better with our food culture. White grapes like vermentino and fiano tend to have vivacious perfumes and crisp acidity that lend themselves to seafood, while also handling the zingy flavour of Thai and Chinese. Medium-bodied, tannin-driven, savoury red wines of Italian origin are also on point. While Australia might have a love and wealth of bombastic, muscular red wines made from shiraz and cabernet, it’s nebbiolo and nero d’avola that are proving to be perfect foils for our love of barbecued foods and fuss-free pasta nights at home. We’re lucky in Australia to have had such…

NUTELLA WAS FIRST developed as an affordable luxury product in the 1940s by Pietro Ferrero. Cocoa had been in short supply after World War II, and Pietro sought a way to extend the small amounts of cocoa available by combining it with a sweet paste made from hazelnuts, which were abundant in Italy’s Piedmont region. It was originally sold as a solid block, however in 1951 a spreadable version called Supercrema was created. This version extended its use further, allowing people to enjoy it on bread, and at an accessible price. In 1964 the Supercrema version was rebranded to Nutella by Pietro’s son, Michele. It was an instant success and meant that chocolate was no longer reserved for special occasions such as Easter or Christmas. Nutella, like most treats, is…

KITCHEN ovens Create restaurant-quality meals with a little help from two impressive ovens. The AEG 45cm Compact 24 Multi-Function ProCombi™ Oven (KS8404001M, $3,499) is available as a steam oven or a convection oven with a steam function – steaming enhances flavours, aromas and texture. Add the self-cleaning AEG 60cm 24-function NaviSight ProCombi™ Oven (BS9314001M, $4,999) and all your cooking bases are covered. THE INNOVATION From traditional bake to turbo grill, plus a range of ProCombi™ steam and heat programs, these ovens come with a host of pre-set functions, all designed to take the hard work out of cooking. KITCHEN cooktops If you asked any serious cook to design the ultimate cooktop, there’s a good chance it would look just like this – a combination of three sleek AEG induction surfaces.…

GORGONZOLA, MUSHROOM & LEEK CRESPELLE BAKE SERVES 6 15g dried porcini mushrooms1 cup (150g) plain flour3 eggs300ml milk1 cup (250ml) olive oil3 leeks, sliced into 1cm rounds2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced1/2 bunch thyme, leaves roughlychopped1kg mixed mushrooms (such as chestnutand Swiss brown), roughly chopped1 cup (240g) ricotta100g creme fraiche1/4 cup (35g) hazelnuts, crushed11/2 cups (105g) ciabatta breadcrumbs100g gorgonzola, crumbled Soak porcini in just enough boiling water to cover for 30 minutes. Drain reserving 1/4 cup (60ml) liquid, and roughly chop. Meanwhile, whiz flour, egg, milk and 1/2 tsp salt in a food processor until smooth. Heat 1 tsp oil in a non-stick frypan over medium heat. Pour1/3 cup (80ml) batter into the pan and swirl to cover base. Cook for 1-2 minutes each side until golden and cooked through. Transfer…

FROM THEIR GOOFY sense of humour (dad jokes sound just as lame in Italian too...), to their bear hugs and tickle fights, right down to those times when we have heard their serious voices announcing grimly that we were grounded, we know there is no safer place than near them. My dad lives in Milan – I don’t see him as often as I would like to – and although I won’t be spending this Father’s Day in his company, I will be cooking a special brunch for the other extraordinary dad in my life, my darling Richard, the father of my children. I will enlist the help of my boys to conjure up a mighty feast. Knowing his passion for coffee, I have thought up a recipe for espresso…

Festival fever A feast for the senses, the annual Chinese Moon Festival marks the time when the moon is at its brightest. To celebrate this, friends and families will gather on Sunday September 27 to gaze at the moon and feast on Asian-style dishes. Thai green curry barramundi serves 4 | prep 15 mins | cooking 30 mins 4 barramundi fillets, skin onOil, to fry Curry 1 tbs coconut oil4 tbs Valcom Authentic Thai Green Curry Paste4 kaffir lime leaves, torn2 long green chillies, deseeded and sliced150ml TCC Premium Coconut Cream30g coconut sugar1 cup fish or master stock2 tbs Squid Brand Fish Sauce12 pea eggplants1 carrot, peeled and finely sliced To serve Coriander leavesKaffir lime leavesLime cheeksBean sproutsSteamed jasmine rice 1. Season barramundi with salt and pepper on both sides.…

6 In the regional hub of Wangaratta, locals flock to the cavernous shed that is RINALDO’S CASA CUCINA (8-10 Tone Rd, Wangaratta) for homey Italian fare from Adam Pizzini (pictured). “It’s not just because Adam’s my cousin; I really do think he’s one of the best Italian chefs in Victoria,” says Christian. “He cooks classic, rustic Italian food and his pastas are amazing. It’s just like eating in Nonna’s kitchen.” Comforting mains include old-school spaghetti and meatballs, and pillowy handmade gnocchi with beef ragu. 7 CAFE STAPLES Christian’s go-to for all-day breakfasts and lunch on-the-run is CAFE DERAILLEUR (38 Norton St, Wangaratta). “They do this amazing pulled pork sandwich in a brioche bun with coleslaw, lime mayonnaise and char siu sauce [pictured above],” he says. “They also serve the best…

water baby For top quality dishes, remove flavour-altering impurities from water with a BRITA Tap. It’s what MasterChef judge Gary Mehigan uses. Visit: betterwithbrita.com. super styler Add industrial chic to your home with the Domanye Hex Pendant Light with an on-trend exposed bulb. Available in two sizes. Visit: domayneonline.com.au. all wrapped up Win one of two featherweight and stylish Merinomink Resort Wraps, valued at $399 each, for your next winter escape. To enter, visit: odysseytraveller.com. teetotalist With added shavings of zingy lemongrass, Tetley Peppermint tea is a twist on an old favourite and the ultimate pick-me-up. Visit: tetley.com.au. blue moon Love Southeast Asian food? Don’t miss Cabramatta Moon Festival (September 27), with classic dishes and live music. Visit: fairfieldcity.nsw.gov.au/moonfestival. easy entertaining Crafted with double cream and matured from the centre,…

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