Indholdsfortegnelse for 01/2022 i Falstaff International

DEAR READERS! It is hard to believe that this already is our third issue – the second in print! Kind readers sent us pictures of Falstaff on display in New York City, Stockholm and Tuscany – please do keep them coming! Now that you hold our spring issue in your hands, we are pleased to tell you that it is as jam-packed as ever, covering the three topics that are closest to our hearts: wine, food and travel. We have just put the cold and dark months of winter behind us, at least in the northern hemisphere, and are looking forward to entering the most hopeful and optimistic time of the year when everything launches back into life. Appropriately, we have chosen a theme of ‘Discovery and Rediscovery’ for this…

The Royal Collection Trust, part of the royal household, has released an English sparkling wine to mark Queen Elizabeth’s platinum jubilee. The design of the wine’s label was inspired by the gold embroidery of the robe of estate the Queen wore to her coronation in June 1953. The Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes for the wine were grown in the counties of Kent and Sussex. Hand-cut flute glasses depicting the national flowers of the UK can be bought alongside in a gift set. rct.uk…

A PERSPECTIVE Katie Lazar and Christopher Howell, both 70 years old, have lived at Cain Vineyard & Winery on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley for years and Howell has made wine for the past 30 vintages there. In September 2020, they narrowly escaped the Glass Fire that raged through Napa County for days. They lost their home and some vineyards to the fire. After so many years, and this great loss, Howell has some perspective on the evolution of Napa Valley – and thus California. He is wondering what to replant. “Places like the Napa Valley might be likened to the growing up of a person. At first, as a young child, we are full of potential, and certain proclivities might declare themselves, but it is really too soon to…

My whole professional life has been quite adventurous. It has been a constant search for new discoveries or rediscoveries. I started with my thesis in viticulture at the University of Florence by searching for grape varieties on the verge of extinction. In the province of Florence alone I found over 60 of them. This showed me the sense of complexity and biodiversity of the wine world which became a constant source of inspiration. In 1995 I travelled with my friend and business partner Antonio Morescalchi to Mendoza, Argentina, for the first time. I fell in love with high-altitude old Malbec vines. At the time they were not appreciated by local producers – their focus then was on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In that same year, I started a project with…

100 2019 CHÂTEAU CHEVAL BLANC Saint-Émilion Fine exotic spice, ripe cherries and subtle hints of liquorice, some vanilla, clove and chocolate. Substantial, elegant, red berry notes, hints of raspberries and strawberries, fine spiciness, silky tannins, salty and incredibly freshly structured, juicy cherry dominates the finish, with nougat, caramel and mineral nuances, seems amazingly accessible, Cheval Blanc at its best. 100 2019 CHÂTEAU FIGEAC Saint-Émilion Dark ruby, purple reflections. Nuances of oak, dark forest fruit, a hint of cassis and liquorice, fine tobacco nuances, spices, orange zest, still a little reserved. Complex, cherries, well-integrated tannins, mineral and lasting, elegant style with a fine fruity finish, salty aftertaste with delicate liquorice, immensely harmonious, absolute ageing potential, however, patience is required. Leave to mature. 100 2019 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD Pauillac A hint of…

One of the most benevolent aspects of the human mind is how it treats our passage through time. For the young person, everything is new and exciting. Differences are to be celebrated and savoured, a reflection of the glorious multiformity of the world. The offbeat and unusual merit particular attention, the novel the most. Life moves simultaneously very fast and very slow. A bit later down the line, flexibility and exploration start to give way to the comfort of the familiar. Patterns begin to emerge: we think we know what we like and what we don’t. The justification for this is based both on experience and on time. There is little excitement in running towards dead ends anymore, and we couldn’t afford it even if we wanted to. Individual days…

Villa Santo Stefano, a 12ha/29 acre estate in the Lucchesia hills in Tuscany, Italy, has launched its new Lucca oil. The extra virgin olive oil is certified organic and is a blend of local olive varieties: 80% Frantoio, 15% Leccino and 5% Moraiolo and Maurino olives. Unusually, the olives are hand-picked. Half a litre of the oil retails for €28/$32. The oil comes with some pedigree. Until 2001, the estate was owned by the Bertolli family, famous for their olive oil, who sold their brand to the Unilever company. villa-santostefano.it…

HARRY’S BAR San Marco 1323, Venice 30124 +39 041 5208822, cipriani.com open Fridays to Tuesdays 12 noon to 11pm Since opening in 1931, the whole world has come to visit Harry’s Bar. It is a fixture on the Venice bucket list. The service is perfect, as is the quality of all that is on offer but prices are exorbitant. It is for this reason that some visitors have surprisingly strong feelings about this landmark. Apart from the original bar, there are 16 further bars, restaurants and lounges across the world. There are three Club-Hotels (in New York and Punta del Este in Uruguay) as well as an online shop for fine foods and hampers and catering businesses in New York, Miami, Mexico, Abu Dhabi and Venice. The Ciprianis clearly know…

Casamigos, the Tequila brand founded by actor George Clooney and Rande Gerber, now owned by Diageo, has partnered with Zephyr, the rooftop bar in Sydney’s Hyatt Regency hotel, to open a five-week “Tequila lovers’ paradise.” The move coincides with Casamigo’s launch in Australia. Zephyr has created special cocktails, like the Tequila Colada Slushie and the Supersonic Jalisco that guests can sip while overlooking Darling Harbour. zephyrbarsydney.com…

HS HOTSSON HOTEL OPENS IN MEXICO CITY’S CONDESA SUR Preferred Hotels & Resorts will open its latest hotel in Mexico City’s vibrant Condesa district, beloved for its nightlife and bohemian atmosphere. The property is ideally located for the Paseo de la Reforma, the city’s museum-lined thoroughfare and the large Chapultepec Park. preferredhotels.com JAPAN’S WILD DRAGON ROUTE NOW OFFERS ELECTRIC BIKES The bespoke tour starts on a regular motorbike in Nagoya, but switches to a zero-emissions e-motorbike at the Gujo Hachiman Castle in the Gifu Prefecture. The scenic route runs from the Pacific Ocean to the Sea of Japan and takes in various sights: “Thrilling mountain roads, breathtaking natural scenery, and national treasures like Japanese castles.” Special points of interest are the Motorcar Museum in Komatsu City, the Kenrokuen garden, Chirihama…

LOVINGLY PAINTED These cheerful dessert plates are painted in Senegal using the technique of underglaze painting. A delicate job that requires concentration. The words and drawings are drawn in ink on the transparent glass plate – with the most beautiful messages. Collect a set! csao.fr KITCHEN HERB GARDEN Grow your own herbs, regardless of the weather, season or lack of green thumb with this automated smart garden. The kits contain packs of seeds, while the ingenious planter provides the light, water and nutrients for them to grow quickly into healthy herbs and plants all year round. connectionsathome.co.uk IN GOOD SHAPE The matte exterior and shiny metallic interior ensures these martini glasses are a decorative eye-catcher. stoelzle-lausitz.com MATERIAL MIX The combination of marble, mirrors and a golden frame makes this bar…

STAINLESS STEEL A higher proportion of chromium in the alloy prevents oxidation and corrosion. Stainless steel is easy to clean and look after and durable. CARBON STEEL A higher proportion of carbon hardens the metal so the blades resist wear and retain their sharp edge for longer. Carbon steel is very durable but needs care to protect it from corrosion. DAMASCUS STEEL The beautiful patterns that grace Damascus steel blades are down to different steels being layered – one harder, one more flexible – and then combined, giving the blade the properties of both kinds of steel. These blades are less hard than carbon steel – the chief attraction is visual – even though different makes have different properties and some are of extremely high quality and sharpness.…

INGREDIENTS 2 parts Tequila Blanco1 part Cointreau1 part lime juice Fine sea salt GLASS Margarita METHOD First, dip the rim of the glass first in lime juice, then in fine salt to create a salty rim around the glass. Put Tequila, Cointreau and lime juice into a blender with a lot of ice. Pulse until you have a slush. Carefully decant into a glass and garnish with a slice of lime. Tip: Adding fresh fruit to the blender makes this infinitely variable: think pineapple, strawberry, watermelon……

BORDEAUX LEGEND ANTHONY BARTON DIES (1930-2022) Born in Kildare County, Ireland, Barton joined his uncle Ronald Barton in Bordeaux in 1951 and later became the charismatic owner of Châteaux Léoville Barton and Langoa-Barton. Tributes were paid to his charm and storytelling wit. leoville-barton.com FOURTH SOMM TV MOVIE TO BE RELEASED IN SPRING 2022 The immensely popular Somm TV franchise will release a fourth movie in spring 2022. Following the success of the original 2013 film that followed four Master Sommelier candidates though their exam process, two further documentaries were released in 2015 and 2018. The fourth movie Cup of Salvation “deals with the origins of religion and wine,” says filmmaker Jason Wise. “The story spans 8,000 years and includes locations all over the world.” sommtv.com CHAMPAGNE HAILS RECORD…

100 2018 SCREAMING EAGLE Napa Valley Intense dark berry aroma streams from the glass. Cabernet concentrate of cassis, liquorice, lavender oil, ethereal and floral at the same time, supported by fine oak, fresh red fruits and salty minerality. Fullbodied, but not exuberant, powerful yet elegant, carried by ripe tannins and driven by a racy acid core, a hedonistic wine of enormous length and incalculable potential. PM 99 2016 PROMONTORY Napa Valley A hint of lichen, of moss and conifer clings to the dark fruit, almost with a citrus intensity. That perfume also informs the palate which seems compact, bullet-like, contained, seamless. There is luscious, melting, ripe fruit with a crushed blackberry character. The tannins are fine, freshness pervades the wine. This is firm, ripe, taut, fresh, dense, sleek, aromatic. There…

A WOMAN WITH A MISSION Rosa Kruger is one of South Africa’s foremost viticulturists. Inspired by visits to European vineyards and wines that often make much of the claim of being made from old vines – just think of all the French bottles proclaiming Vieilles Vignes on the label – Kruger asked herself where the old vines were in South Africa. Surely, a country with a vine history dating back to the 17th century must have some old vines? THE OLD VINE PROJECT It was in 2002 that Kruger started recording the names of the farms and sites that still had old vines – they are less productive in terms of yield than newer plantings, so many had been grubbed up. Initially, this was real detective work, requiring the input…

94 2019 HAUT-BAILLY II Pessac-Léognan Delicate nougat and herbs, fine nutty aromas, dark berries and some cassis. Full-bodied, ripe cherries, chocolate, well-integrated tannins, mineral, fine fruit expression on the finish, lingers, a most elegant food wine. 94 2019 LE PETIT LION, LÉOVILLE-LAS-CASES, Saint-Julien Fine herbal spice, red forest fruit, a hint of oak, cherries and blueberries, a hint of iodine, typical Léoville Las Cases DNA on the nose. Juicy, red berry fruit, fresh and silky on the palate, fine tannins, mineral and salty, will benefit from bottle age. 93 2019 GRAND VIN DE REIGNAC ROUGE Bordeaux Supérieur Dark berries, some liquorice, tobacco nuances, herbs and candied orange zest. Full-bodied, elegant, ripe cherries, silky tannins, mineral, freshness and length, fine nougat on the finish, good ageing potential. 93 BIO 2019 CLOS…

Vessels matter. The containers wine are fermented and aged in have an influence on the finished product – on its taste, certainly, but in more and subtler ways than you may think. Vessels are just one element in the vast matrix that is wine, but a fascinating one. The chief materials for wine vessels are wood, stainless steel, concrete, fibre-glass and clay – some winemakers even use vessels hewn from granite, stoneware fermenters or, in one case, a hollowed out marble rock. Some wines are also deliberately aged in glass, exposed to daylight. The three chief aspects to consider when thinking about wine vessels is whether they add any flavour to the wine, as some wood does, how thermally stable the material is and whether there is oxygen exchange, i.e.…

The award-winning British chef and TV personality Angela Hartnett will publish her third cookery book in late May, titled The Weekend Cook. It will feature more than 80 recipes for home entertaining. “Angela knows the secrets to throwing the most relaxed and enjoyable dinners for friends and family – sometimes mad, but always magical evenings that people talk about for months afterwards and in this book she is going to share them,” her publisher promises. The 288 page hardback book has full colour photography. bloomsbury.com…

CEVICHE This dish of cubed raw fish lightly marinated in citrus, drizzled with olive oil and served with onion, avocado and chillies, is the one most closely identified with Peruvian cuisine. The word is believed to derive from the Quechua (an indigenous language) word siwichi, which means fresh fish. Ceviche dates back to the Incas, but the ingredients and techniques have changed with each successive wave of cultural change and exchange, from the Spanish conquest onwards. The dish helped make Peruvian food famous around the world, and is still evolving today. PACHAMANCA Not so much an ingredient or dish, but a way of cooking. Chef Adrián Sánchez says, “Pachamanca means ‘earth oven’. You dig a hole, make a fire and line it with volcanic stones, then wrap the food in…

Roast meat – yes, this primal worship of the flesh has been, is and will be central to human feasting. In spite of much more awareness surrounding the consumption of meat, the roast is still a centrepiece at Christmas, Easter and countless other festivals and gatherings. It is essential to Argentina’s gaucho culture with asado; it showcases New Zealand’s indigenous heritage in Hangi, the tradition of roasting meat over heated stones set into the ground – but in many homes globally, the ‘humble’ roast is enjoyed all year round. Whether you take the British route of roast beef with Yorkshire pudding and fluffy roast potatoes, a whole lamb cooked over an open fire, or a spit with a pig on it, rotating until the meat is soft and juicy, it…

The California-based luxury and wellness retreat will debut its new programme at Palazzo Fiuggi in May 2022. Just 50 minutes from Rome, the resort sits in a private hilltop park in the spa town of Fonte, famed for its healing Fiuggi waters. Like the California original, the Italian programme will offer the 25 weekly guests The Ranch’s “signature no-options experience”. This means a morning hike in the Apennine mountains, a nap, strength training, yoga and massages, combined with a “nutrient-dense, plant-based diet”. theranchmalibu.com…

94 XIAMAN MEZCAL ARTESANAL Complex smoke on the nose, very characteristic of agave, but not too overpowering. Much freshness with a hint of citrus zest and notes of freshly cut grass. Multi-layered texture, subtle spice and agave sweetness. 94 CURADO ESPADIN Hints of cooked agave on the nose with overtones of pepper and smoke. Profound sweetness lends extra dimension to the fragrance. Softness, too, on the palate that runs right through to the finish, plus notes of freshly cracked pepper. 93 DON JULIO BLANCO The first impression on the nose is of cooked agave with slight spice in the background. Soft on the palate with sweetish overtones, typical pepperiness redoubles on the finish. 92 CURADO CUPREATA Powerful nose with a profound note of agave, syrup and a touch of lime.…

Discovering means encountering something new, something that we have never seen, heard, felt or experienced before. Discovery often implies grandeur, like the discovery of continents or the Rosetta Stone that unlocked history and language. It also implies years of methodical research and diligence, like Marie Curie discovering polonium and radium. On a more personal and prosaic level, the loveliest discoveries are much less consequential for the world but immense to us: discovering the perfect table in the perfect café with the perfect Americano. Discovering that bar with that fizz and the understated but impeccable service. Finding just that dress, that pair of shoes, that fountain pen. Because these discoveries are so personal they bring such satisfaction and pleasure. Then there is rediscovering, seeing with fresh eyes what we have seen…

Château d’Yquem in Sauternes, France, probably the world’s most famous estate for sweet wine, is launching a “lighthouse programme” to coincide with the launch of its 2019 vintage. The wine, a bottle of which usually retails for around $450/£340, will be made available by the glass in so-called “lighthouse” locations across the world; i.e. selected restaurants in Hong Kong, mainland China, Australia, Europe, Morocco and the US. yquem.fr…

I want to emigrate to Denmark. No, not because they have great healthcare. I want to emigrate there because that one nation of six million people imports a whopping 20 percent of wine from Chile’s Viña Casa Marin, most of it their ethereal Cipreses Sauvignon Blanc, the finest Sauvignon Blanc in the world, in my no doubt controversial estimation. Travel back to 2012. I got invited to the country to write Sideways 3: Chile, the third in my trilogy. On the surface, a dream job. Except when I arrived I discovered that my benefactors were mostly big wineries run by obscenely rich crypto-Pinochet loyalists. They held lavish dinners at their wineries in an effort to seduce me into writing about them. But, I’m a writer, and I was there to…

98 IPSUS CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE DOCG 2018 Il Caggio, Castellina Bright, rich ruby colour. Opens on the nose with notes of cranberry and plum, followed by fine salty notes, some dried tomato. Enormously energetic on the palate, lots of finely woven tannin, compact fruit, great tension, very long finish, powerful, but also with great drinking flow. ipsus.it 97 COLONIA CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE DOCG 2018 Fèlsina, Castelnuovo Berardenga Bright, rich ruby red. Very intense and clearly delineated nose full of wild raspberries and blackberries, with overtones of cardamom, exciting. Substantial and dense on the palate, opens up with a lot of pithy tannin, rich, dark cranberry fruit, emphatically earthy notes in the finish of beetroot and cocoa. felsina.it 97 RONCICONE CHIANTI CLASSIO GRAN SELEZIONE DOCG 2018 Ricasoli, Gaiole Bright…

97 2018 AVA MARIE CHARDONNAY Restless River Wines Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Full of life and vitality. There’s real energy, tension and focus. Natural fermentation and maturation in oak as well as in amphora and stainless steel showcases the vivid fruit. Clean, lemon-lime, gunpowder, flint and peach-stone spice. Mineral and weighted on the palate, an undercurrent of soft lemon curd, tangy and fresh with a proper stony acidity and length for days. 97 2020 THE 1947 CHENIN BLANC Kaapzicht Wine Estate Bottelary, Stellenbosch Atmospheric. The sensation of a cloudburst. Crafted from 73-year-old bush vines. Inviting aromas of white peach, lemon flesh, wet thatch and crushed cardamom. On the palate a fluidity of cinnamon and custard, peaches and cream. A bright, focused, lemony acidity refreshes and lifts. Wonderfully complex and textured, firing on…

VINTAGE 2019 BEST OF RIGHT BANK 100 Château Cheval Blanc, St. Émilion 100 Château Figeac, St. Émilion 100 Pétrus, Pomerol 100 Château Lafleur, Pomerol 99 Château Beauséjour-Duffau-Lagarrosse, St. Émilion 99 Château Pavie, St. Émilion 99 Vieux-Château-Certan, Pomerol 98 Château La Conseillante, Pomerol 98 Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol 98 Château Trotanoy, Pomerol VINTAGE 2019 BEST OF LEFT BANK* 100 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 100 Château Léoville-Las-Cases, Saint-Julien 100 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 100 Château Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 99 Château Margaux, Margaux 99 Château Cos d’Estournel, Saint-Estèphe 98 Château Montrose, Saint-Estèphe 98 Château Palmer, Margaux 98 Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan 98 Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan *Château Latour, Pauillac, also scored 100 Falstaff points but was not sold en primeur and will only be released in ten years’ time.…

100 2017 F.X. PICHLER UNENDLICH Wachau, Austria Medium yellow-green, silver reflections. Nuances of fresh apricot and blossom honey, tropical fruit, floral touch, an inviting bouquet. Juicy, very elegant, fine fruit expression, silky, fine acid, seems perfectly balanced, mineral and lasting, a wine with a very, very long life ahead. PM fx-pichler.at 100 2019 PRAGER SMARAGD RIED ZWERITHALER KAMMERGUT Wachau, Austria Medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. Ripe white apple fruit, meadow herbs, hints of mango, lime and orange zest. Complex, juicy, elegant texture, white tropical fruit, fine, fresh acidity, salty-minerality, lingers very long. PM weingutprager.at 99 2019 HIRSCH RIED LAMM Kamptal, Austria Medium greenish yellow, silver reflections. White stone fruit, candied lime zest, nuances of passion fruit and mango, delicately peppery, fresh meadow herbs. Juicy, mineral, fine fruit expression, subtle note…

AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION LAUNCHES TASTE OF AUBERGE The luxury hotel, resort and residence brand has launched a year-long programme of “epicurean events featuring pop-ups and chef residencies” at its properties. Held in both the US and international locations, Taste of Auberge, promises “unique opportunities to engage with incredible chefs through intimate dinners, immersive cooking classes and private tastings.” aubergeresorts.com WOLFGANG PUCK TO OPEN RESTAURANT AT VIENNA AIRPORT The Austrian-born celebrity chef of Spago and Oscar catering fame and man behind a restaurant and catering empire, is finally opening a restaurant in his home country. Delayed by the pandemic, the Wolfgang Puck Kitchen & Bar will open in spring 2022 in the arrivals area of Terminal 3 at Vienna Airport. There will be a seated restaurant and a bar as…

FRANCE Loire/Centre St Maure de Touraine: 15cm logs, grey with wrinkly rind. Selles-sur-Cher: 7cm disks, grey and black wrinkly rind. Valençay: 7cm high pyramids, grey wrinkly rind. Crottin de Chavignol: 60-100g stumpy cylinders, white when young, shading to brown when aged. Bourgogne Bouton de Culotte: Tiny buttons shading from white, via grey to orange-brown with age. Charolais: 7cm high cylinders, cream-coloured to reddish brown. Midi-Pyrénées Cabécou de Rocamadour: The AOC version of a Cabécou (Occitan for ‘small goat’s cheese’). 5cm disks, shading from cream to orange with blue flecks. Picadou: Cabécou wrapped in walnut leaves, sprayed with eau-de-vie de prune (plum fruit distillate) and matured in an airless container. Fierce. Provence Buchette de Manon: 10cm thin logs, set on a thin strip of wood, with a scattering of sarriette (winter…

The Italian region of Lazio is offering to pay couples up to €2,000 towards the cost of their marriage or civil union, if the ceremony takes place in the central Italian region this year. Each couple can apply to be reimbursed for up to five expenses such as catering, apparel, car hire, rings and their honeymoon if those products or services are bought from companies in Lazio before 31 December 2022. Both local and foreign lovebirds are eligible, which should spell the start of an Italian summer of love. regione.lazio.it/nellazioconamore…

CHEF’S KNIFE – a large, general purpose knife for chopping, dicing and mincing. Its Japanese counterpart is the santoku or gyuto. BONING KNIFE – a thin, pointed blade designed to cut close around bones and sinew. It does the same job as a Japanese honesuki. PARING KNIFE – a small, light blade for precise jobs such as peeling fruit, removing prawn veins, deseeding chillies or hulling strawberries. Also known as a petty knife. FILLETING KNIFE – a long, flexible blade perfect for the delicate job of separating meat or fish from skin and bone. The Japanese deba performs a similar task. CARVING KNIFE – a long, narrow blade essential for carnivores seeking impeccably fine slices of their Sunday roast. The Japanese equivalent is a sujihiki. BREAD KNIFE – a serrated…

TEQUILA Tequila is the most well-known version of the agave spirit mezcal, distilled from the succulent heart of the agave plant. Both must have an ABV of between 35-55%. The portion of agave has to be at least 51% – but the best Tequila is made from 100% agave. The agave’s fleshy heart, or piña, is harvested, cooked in large ovens to make its sugars fermentable, then mashed into a pulp. The remaining fibre can be used as fuel or animal feed. The pulp is then fermented. The resulting alcoholic liquid is distilled into ordinario, and then distilled again into clear Tequila. This is sold as white or silver Tequila. Aged versions, like reposado, añejo or extra añejo are matured in barrel. Blanco (white) or plata (silver) – unaged Reposado…

“If it was an album, it would be Stevie Wonder’s Songs in the Key of Life.”MICHELE MUNRO I do not want to miss the opportunity to congratulate you on your Falstaff first international print issue. It is marvellous! Elena Arzak, Arzak Restaurant Donostia – San Sebastián, Spain Your first edition of Falstaff International Magazine landed on my desk this morning. The magazine looks great and I’ll be reading it cover to cover over the next few days. Sam Barry, Jim Barry Wines Clare, South Australia Three days ago an almighty thud was heard at midday in our hall. It was the postie delivering Falstaff. Thank you so much. Congratulations on producing such a well laid out periodical. Super professional. Very informative, too. David Murdoch London, England I don’t have time…