Indholdsfortegnelse for Fall 2018 i GQ Style

IT’S BEEN A HELL OF A WEEK. The GQ Style crew and I have been scrambling to finish this issue, with its bold new logo and radical redesign. I also happen to be moving tomorrow, which is inevitably a mega hassle. And I’ve been back and forth to the hospital for the past three days. You see, two weeks ago, in the bathroom of my hotel room in Paris, I noticed an unusual hardness in my left testicle. When I got back to New York, I found a good urologist. And on Tuesday, just a few hours after an initial examination and an intense ultrasound experience (s/o warm ultrasound gel), I stepped out of a meeting at GQ Style headquarters to take a call from the doc. He told me…

“BRUH, LOOK WHAT YOU DID.” Jermall Charlo was pointing to a tiny red speck on the white sleeve of his Gucci polo. Jermell Charlo, his twin brother, glanced up from his plate of ravioli—the sauce was the same color as the speck. “I owe you now?” “I need 500,” Jermall said. He wasn’t kidding, but he wasn’t not kidding, either. This is how the Charlo brothers talk, especially to each other: in a constant torrent of provocations, always probing for weakness. Jermall Charlo is a 28-year-old middleweight (160 pounds) boxing champion from Houston, and Jermell is almost exactly the same, except that he is one minute younger and, when he fights, six pounds lighter—a junior middleweight (154 pounds). Boxing championships can be dubious: A number of different organizations distribute championship…

AS WITH HAWAIIAN SHIRTS and Lionel Richie, it’s always a testament to the fickle whims of fashion and fancy when something way out of style becomes so beloved again. Culture is a vulture. In the architecture world, it’s all about the re-appreciation of brutalism. The revival has been relatively swift—the verdict swinging from condemnation and demolition to idolatry and reverence over the course of a few decades. Even Kanye’s new Yeezy office is heavily influenced by the movement. Despite what you might assume, brutalism doesn’t get its name from its aggressively confrontational toughness or unapologetic lack of concern for comfort. It’s not so named because of its savagery or vicious brutishness. The term is simply taken from béton brut, French for “raw concrete.” It’s not about the adjective, man, but…

EMILY BODE’S NEW studio is truly a beautiful mess. Chinatown-plaid totes overflow with fabric swatches, and the quilts that Bode turns into extra-covetable shirts and jackets are stacked on every available surface. It’s impossible to navigate through the space without bumping into something that will, a few months from now, be worn by an up-and-coming artist, or a street-style legend, or maybe even a celebrity hosting SNL. (That’s right: Donald Glover wore a pair of Bode pants during his hosting gig back in May.) Although she just moved in, it’s not hard to imagine that Bode, a 29-year-old Atlanta native, will have to go through this again soon, finding another, larger studio just as she gets the walls painted and the custom wooden shelving installed. Things are moving that quickly.…

SOMETIME IN THE PAST five years, the Paris nightlife scene began to change. A good evening out in the City of Light used to mean submitting to the mercy of a relentlessly choreographed Michelin-starred temple of haute cuisine, or stopping by the local brasserie for homey beef entrecôte or duck à l’orange, before hitting the same handful of smoky clubs. But now young hospitalité whizzes are bringing a new energy to the city. Nowhere is this more apparent than on a quiet stretch of the narrow Rue des Petites Écuries, which runs for three short blocks from the western edge of Paris’s Tenth Arrondissement. It’s an unlikely port of call for the city’s stylish creative class. But almost every night of the week they flock to one of the street’s…

COOKIES AND MARNI. That’s the agenda today as Tyler, the Creator, and I ride around Paris and shoot the shit. Tyler can be incredibly specific in his tastes. Today he wants white-chocolate cookies from a particular bakery he went to the last time he was in Paris. And he’s looking for a certain gray two-piece suit he saw a black guy with a high-top wear in an editorial. He knows what he wants. But he doesn’t have any other information on the bakery. We literally typed “Paris Cookie” in Google. (And found it!) And just went by the nearest Marni, which unfortunately didn’t have the suit. But, to be fair, it could have been from seasons ago. He’s fixated on the suit, which is surprising for a guy who’s famous…

01 Marbled Trenches Meet Jermall and Jermell Charlo, the undefeated identical-twin pugilists fighting their way to the top of the boxing world. To read about their latest triumphs, turn to page 90. Throughout this section, they wear the season’s flyest designer fashions, starting with Dries Van Noten’s series of multicolored nylon coats. 02 Fireman’s Jacket 03 MONOGRAM LOAFERS Meet the new Gucci loafer. There’s no horse bit in sight, but the old-school two-tone style and iconic monogram make it perfect for this retro-obsessed fashion moment. 04 Chunky Knit Sweater 05 SEQUINED RIDER JACKET 06 A Statement Suit The art of subtlety is not dead—it’s just taking a break this fall. Which means you should dress up your boldest orange suit with an equally striking shirt. 07 WIDE-WALE CORDUROY SUIT The…

TURNS OUT, WHEN YOU spend years skating city streets like Evan Kinori has, shredding through gear and sneakers, you learn a lot about how clothes are constructed. “There’s something about skateboarding that causes you to be really neurotic and picky about your kit all the time,” says the 30-year-old San Francisco–based designer, who has blown out his fair share of skate pants. Kinori is a true skate disciple—he even entertained the idea of taking a shot at going pro at one point. It’s not a contrived image that he created for his brand. In fact, clothing design was never really part of the plan. But when Kinori was in San Francisco studying philosophy at a liberal-arts school—the pro-skater idea had fallen by the wayside—he happened to pop into West Coast…

HAIDER ACKERMANN FOLLOWS HIS HEART. It’s brought him to some interesting places. Today he’s in Paris, where he has lived and worked for the past eight years. That’s the longest time he’s spent anchored in one location—ever. “I’m not ready to move,” he tells me. We’re walking along the busy Rue Saint-Honoré on a sunny summer day. “Unless…unless there is a new love affair—and then I’m out of here again.” Ackermann’s most recent love affair didn’t take him away from Paris. If anything, it helped him create a deeper connection to the city. It lasted nearly two years—three seasons, in fashion-speak—and ended with a public breakup that, considering the tumultuous state of the industry in 2018, wasn’t exactly surprising but was, for many people, hugely disappointing. So how did he…

I’m sitting in the artist Henry Taylor’s driveway in early summer, watching him rough out a portrait in his home garage–slash–studio. He works quickly, applying pink to large areas of the canvas, then counter-balancing with generous slathers of a lush green, pausing only occasionally to search for the next song on his iPhone. Kanye’s album Ye just dropped, and I’m lobbying for “Ghost Town” while Taylor’s on the hunt for the Psychedelic Furs’ “Pretty in Pink,” in homage to the canvas’s dominant hue. Once he lays out one of his subject’s basic forms, he goes to work approximating a face. Some of the details in a Taylor portrait are close to what you or I might see, while others—the signature Taylor strokes—are far more impressionistic. Energetically, he’s all over the…