Indholdsfortegnelse for January 2023 i Olive Magazine

It’s going to be a year of contrasts. We might be going out to eat on fewer occasions but, when we do, we’ll really go for it. More restaurants will offer shorter, tighter menus, and open on fewer days. We’ll balance frugality at home by looking for a little escapism in the form of music and entertainment and, occasionally, lavish food. These are predictions for 2023 from those in the know – leading lights in hospitality give us a reality check and reasons to be optimistic on page 56. My cosy – not costly – menu offers a new twist on three comforting classics: the warmth of Mexican salsa macha transforms tomato soup, an easy lamb casserole gets a revamped top with a crunchy hash brown crust, and halva adds…

Fish-fragrant aubergine SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | If you aren’t a fan of aubergine, it’s because you haven’t had this dish yet. Sichuan cooks fry aubergine until it’s golden and buttery, then braise it briefly in a sweet and sour sauce. This double cooking transforms the aubergine’s rather chewy, bland, spongy flesh into buttery and tender morsels that melt in the mouth, made irresistibly heady with garlic and enlivened by hot pickled red chillies and ginger. According to legend, the dish originated along the coast of the Yangtze River in Sichuan, where fishermen often cooked the fish they caught using a pungent mixture of chillies, ginger and garlic. Today the ‘fish-fragrant’ flavour is a standard in the canon of Sichuan cooking, with…

MAKES 12 | PREP 5 MINSCOOK 30 MINS | EASY 140g unsalted butter, cubed, plus extra for the tin200g 70% dark chocolate, broken into pieces200g caster sugar3 eggs, lightly beaten100g plain flour1 tsp vanilla paste 1 Heat the air fryer to 160C. Butter and line an 18cm square brownie tin – check it fits in the air fryer, you may need to remove the perforated basket to make it fit. 2 Put the butter and chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water. Leave for 6-8 mins or until melted. Alternatively, melt in the microwave in short bursts. Allow to cool slightly, then whisk in the sugar and eggs until well combined. 3 Stir in the flour and vanilla paste, then pour into the prepared…

It’s plants first at Tendril, and with an inventive menu from chef Rishim Sachdeva, your taste buds are on course for a surprise. Vegetables are treated with utmost care, and dishes sing with incredible balance – and don’t get us started on that tiramisu. As Tendril is a popup, the space is clean and simple, but that, coupled with the plain black uniforms of the knowledgeable waitstaff, allows the food to shine. tendrilkitchen.co.uk MENU DECODER CACAO POWDER Used to help make the sponge in Tendril’s signature vegan tiramisu, it’s similar to cocoa powder but it has added benefits. Processed at a lower temperature than cocoa, it’s more bitter in taste but contains less sugar and has a higher nutritional content. PIQUILLO PEPPERS Like regular red peppers, these aren’t hot but…

Bartender tip: Paul Mathew Conservation biologist and bartender Paul Mathew has spent the past 25 years working in the drinks industry. Co-owner of bars Hide, The Arbitrager and Demon, and Wise & Partners in London, he launched Everleaf in 2019, a non-alcoholic aperitif that uses sustainably sourced botanicals. everleafdrinks.com Paul’s best cocktail tip: “One of my go-tos for serving cocktails to a crowd is to make an oleo saccharum the day before – peel citrus fruit and add the peels to a jar with sugar. Shake and leave overnight for the oils to be drawn out of the skin – the sugar will look damp. The following day, juice the citrus into the sugar and shake to dissolve. Strain out the peel, and use as a base for punches. You…

Provence is France, but its cuisine is of its own, a prism to the Mediterranean. It is the land of olive oil, sun-kissed vegetables, cypress trees and beguiling light, and of food rich in colour and loud in flavour. Provence has a cuisine that is rich and varied, with historical influences from Liguria just down the coast, Arab conquest, Phoenician sailors, Roman tradition and local innovation. The markets are a sight to behold – there are tomatoes blushed deep reds and pinks, and gnarled in the sun, tables filled with flowering rosemary, peppery winter savory, or basil for your pistou, courgette flowers to be stuffed with ricotta, and local goat’s cheeses wrapped in chestnut leaves or topped with a bud of lavender. There’s seafood, saffron and wild fennel for bouillabaisse…

I’m Rukmini Iyer, and I’m a food writer, stylist and author of the Roasting Tin cookbook series – India Express is my latest book. I live in London with my partner, Tim, our baby daughter, Alba, and our border collie, Pepper. The kitchen is my favourite room in the house and it was the major selling point when we bought it, even before the refit. It’s a large, airy space in an extension off the original Victorian building. I love that there’s room for a long island unit, a dining area and a living space (which is now home to Alba’s playpen). One of the nicest features is the glass door at the end of the kitchen, which folds into the wall, so in summer the room seamlessly flows into…

I’ve always held a special place in my heart – or, let’s be honest, stomach – for aubergine parmigiana, that utterly delightful dish of oily, silken aubergine layered with rich tomato sauce and parmesan cheese. But a recent trip to Naples, where this dish is also layered with the Campania region’s famous buffalo mozzarella, took my enjoyment up a notch to infatuation levels. We bought it, taken away in a foil tub, from a wonderful deli and ate it on a secret balcony accessed via a window in our hotel bathroom while our baby slept. It was neither hot nor cold, just the warmer side of ambient, and it was one of the most delicious moments of the trip, if not year. I also ordered it in Ischia, as the…

SERVES 6 | PREP 55 MINS PLUS FREEZING AND CHILLING | COOK 20 MINS MORE EFFORT | GF This recipe makes more than you will need. Use two silicone dome moulds (there should be 12 domes in total) for the dessert, then freeze the rest of the mixture in a lined loaf tin to enjoy later. MANDARIN SEMIFREDDO½ gelatine leaf90ml mandarincello or narancello110g egg yolks (about 8 yolks)190g caster sugar300ml double creamMANDARIN GEL100ml mandarin juice or clementine juice1 tsp caster sugar½ tsp agar-agar3 ready-made meringue shells, crushed intosmall pieces1 tsp mandarin powder (optional)mandarin segments, to servelemon verbena, to serve (optional) 1 Put the gelatine in a small bowl of water and leave to bloom. Put the mandarincello in a small pan and bring to a very gentle simmer. Remove from…

CRAVING This light and airy focaccia makes the most of the herbs grown by Maria G’s restaurant in west London, and is doused with fruity olive oil before baking. Turn over to try the recipe, and follow our favourite eating-out trends using the #Olivecraving hashtag on Instagram Maria G’s garden herb focaccia MAKES 1KG LOAF | PREP 1 HR PLUS PROVING COOK 25 MINS | EASY | 1kg 00 flour8g fast-action dried yeast15g caster sugar25g fine salt100ml olive oil (we used Le Ferre), plus extra for drizzling large handful of mixed garden herbs, leaves picked 10% brine (mix 1/4 tsp salt with 11/2 tbsp water) 1 Make a starter by mixing together 50g of the flour, 75ml of water and the yeast. In a separate bowl, mix together all of…

What is ? Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead or require 30 mins or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests. What’s on the menu Tomato soup with salsa macha Lamb casserole with a hash brown top Halva-topped rice pudding If you’ve got a slow cooker, you can keep the soup hot in it until you’re ready to serve. Tomato soup with salsa macha MAKES 4 SMALL BOWLS OR CUPS | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 45 MINS | EASY Fry 4 tbsp of sofrito mixture in 2 tbsp of olive oil until soft. Add 1 bay leaf, a 400g tin of good-quality plum tomatoes and 400ml of chicken stock,…

Headed up by a team with personal ties to the Notting Hill area in which it resides – all of whom are plucked from institutions including the two-Michelin-starred Kitchen Table and Ikoyi, and three-Michelin-starred Core – Dorian’s ever-changing menu is a celebration of seasonal British produce, prepared with playful techniques that are sure to surprise and charm. Coupled with a cocktail menu created with foraged ingredients in mind, plus an extensive curated wine list that’s predominantly from France and Italy, and elegant décor, Dorian has all the makings of a mainstay in the London hospitality scene. dorianrestaurant.com Our pro says It takes a lot to get this south-east London boy to Notting Hill, and it isn’t just the bus, plus train, plus tube, plus walking pilgrimage. But Chris D’Sylva (of…

This Cooks Professional bread maker is so easy to use – simply put the ingredients into the non-stick pan, select your desired programme and the appliance does the rest. With 19 functions to choose from, this bread maker really does do it all. You can even fill the handy ingredients dispenser with your chosen nuts, seeds or herbs, and the machine will automatically distribute them into your dough at the right time. There’s also a 60-minute keep-warm function and a delay function, so you can postpone the baking process until the time that you want your bread to be ready, so it can start even when you’re away from the machine. Treat yourself to freshly baked bread every morning or spend time experimenting with different flavour combinations and textures using…

Born in Iceland, Aggi Sverrisson’s cooking career began at the age of 18, leading him to England where he joined Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, and was promoted to head chef in 2005. He launched his first independent venture in 2007, becoming chef patron of London’s renowned Texture restaurant and champagne bar. Honoured with a Michelin star in 2010, Texture retained its coveted award for 10 years. In 2020, Aggi returned to Iceland, taking the executive chef position at Moss restaurant, where he integrates Asian flavours as he explores Iceland’s culinary frontiers. bluelagoon.com 1 Kleinur These twisted doughnuts are an extremely traditional Icelandic pastry – as a child you grow up seeing your grandmother make these, and you to be asked to make them at the weekend…

in season this month celeriac kale leeks lemons pears purple sprouting broccoli shallots winter salad Charred purple sprouting broccoli with tahini yogurt and spiced seeds This makes a great starter or lunch, served with some crusty bread for mopping up the tahini yogurt. To keep the purple sprouting broccoli from losing its colour and bite during cooking, stick to griddling or stir-frying. SERVES 2 AS A STARTER OR LUNCH | PREP 15 MINS COOK 20 MINS | EASY | V GF 80ml rapeseed oil plus 1 tsp1 large garlic clove, very thinly sliced1 tbsp pumpkin seeds ½ tbsp sesame seeds ½ tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp pink peppercorns, lightly crushed¼ tsp smoked paprika¼ tsp dried chilli flakes 230g purple sprouting broccoli, stalks trimmed300g thick greek yogurt2 tbsp runny tahini 1…

SUPPORT SMALL Jenny Lau at the Hackney Chinese Community Centre The A-Z of Chinese Food is an online essay series written by Jenny Lau that explores identity through the lens of food. I delight in reading it every month and Jenny’s food events supporting the Hackney Chinese Community Centre are equally inspiring. “I’m a British Chinese Londoner with roots in Malaysia and Hong Kong. I’ve lived in three countries and consider myself somewhere between diasporic and transnational in identity. I organise events such as potlucks and fundraising supper clubs for a grassroots community of East and Southeast Asian food lovers. In the run up to Lunar New Year, HCCS always hosts a community celebration, which involves a lion dance, speeches and activities for all the family. My potluck club has…

wine Are you doing dry January or just looking to cut down on wine for a while? Hats off if you go the whole month without a unit of alcohol passing your lips but be warned that non-alcoholic (more properly called de-alcoholised) wine can be disappointing. Some are better than others but none will convince you they are ‘real’ wine because alcohol-soluble flavour and aroma compounds are also removed, as well as the distinctive body that alcohol brings. De-alcoholised fizz tends to fare better than still wines because the bubbles give their own texture and interest, and provide a hint of celebration as you pop the cork. Most supermarkets have own-label choices that won’t break the bank; serve them very chilled and add a slice of lemon or lime for…

Enjoy creating a vast range of delicious meals and recipes with this powerful 1,000W food processor from Cooks Professional. You can chop, blend, mix, grate and so much more. This processor gives you all the convenience of a blender with the added bonus of a range of accessories that allow you to grind coffee beans or nuts, peel potatoes, mix dough, grate cheese and vegetables, as well as blend. With a large 3.5-litre mixing bowl that has a 2-litre working capacity, and a 1.8-litre blender jug attachment, it’s quick and easy to make large quantities of fresh smoothies and plenty else for all the family to enjoy. This is an excellent addition to any kitchen and is great for preparing meats, vegetables, dough and cake mixtures, jams, milkshakes and soups.…

Smoked cod’s roe choux bites (pictured on p86) MAKES 12 | PREP 40 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | MORE EFFORT CHOUX BUNS60g unsalted butter90g plain flour2 eggsPICKLED RED ONION150ml red wine vinegar150g caster sugar1/2 tsp each of black peppercorns and yellow mustard seeds1/4 tsp each of juniper berries and coriander seeds1 small red onion, thinly slicedSMOKED COD ROE MOUSSE125g smoked cod roe, peeled1 garlic clove, crushed1/2 tbsp dijon mustard1 tbsp lemon juice 100ml grapeseed oildill, to garnish 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. In a large pan, mix the butter with 115ml of water and bring to a simmer over a medium heat. Once the butter has melted, add the flour along with 1/2 tsp salt and mix together, stirring continuously, until it starts to come away…