Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2023 i Olive Magazine

As much as I love the excitement of Christmas parties with colleagues, festive meals out with different friendship groups and lively family gatherings, it’s the quieter week of Twixmas that’s the most rewarding in the kitchen. Why? Because I love leftovers – with no pressure to create something special from scratch, I can be at my most creative. A bowl of noodles spiked with chilli sauce and ginger is a palate-reviving way to use up turkey; a cheeseboard pie is as ridiculously simple as it is delicious; and give me a panettone or pandoro and I can ‘make’ a cake in five minutes. You can find these effortless festive recipes on page 26. It’s also a great time of year to sneak away and unwind. This month, we explore a…

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH In season this month celeriaccranberriesduckjerusalem artichokesleeksoysterspomegranatesquincesprouts Leek gratin with crispy leek topping SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE | PREP 30 MINS COOK 1 HR | EASY | V 400g leeks, trimmed and washed3 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp plain flour2 tbsp butter400ml milk1 tsp english mustard powder2 bay leaves140g mature cheddar, grated25g panko breadcrumbs 2 tsp thyme leaves½ lemon, zested 1 Cut most of the leeks into 3cm pieces, finely slicing 10cm of the white part of one leek for the topping. 2 Steam the bite-sized pieces for 6-8 mins or until just tender, then leave to steam dry. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the finely sliced leek for 15-18 mins, stirring regularly until crisp and golden. Strain from…

Bûche de noël SERVES 10 | PREP40 MINS | COOK25 MINS PLUS COOLING | EASY | GF SPONGE 6 eggs, separated150g caster sugar50g cocoa powdericing sugar, for dustingredcurrants or cranberriesand hollyor rosemary, to decorate (optional) FILLING 150ml double cream2 tbsp icing sugar2 tsp vanilla bean paste TOPPING 125g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the tin230g icing sugar20g cocoa powder50g dark chocolate(at least 70% cocoa solids) 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter a 32cm x 23cm swiss roll tin and line with baking paper. For the sponge, beat the egg whites in a large bowl using an electric whisk until stiff peaks form. Whisk in 2 tbsp of the caster sugar. 2 In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and remaining caster sugar for 5…

Risotto with smoked mackerel, peas and lemon Smoked mackerel is a rich and incredibly tasty oily fish, and it’s widely available, which really makes this dish a winner. SERVES 2-4 | PREP 2 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY 1 tbsp olive oil2 tbsp unsalted butter1 small onion, grated1 fat garlic clove, crushed300g risotto rice800ml fish stock (good-quality stock cube or bouillon is fine), plus a splash extra if needed50ml dry sherry(dry vermouth or white wine also work well)1 tsp hot smoked paprika2 smoked mackerel fillets, skins removed and flaked70g frozen peas3 tbsp crème fraîche 1/2 lemon, zested and juiced2 tbsp chopped dill 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the olive oil and butter in a 30cm x 20cm x 5cm roasting tin or dish and…

PRO VS PUNTERrestaurant review Manchester-based writer Tony Naylor has spent two decades writing about food and drink for, among others, Olive, BBC Good Food, The Guardian and Observer Food Monthly. Our pro says Occupying a peach of a location by York Minster, Refectory is a big venue comprised of an all-day restaurant with multiple menus, a takeaway counter, private event space (busy with a wine tasting on this visit) and large terrace that draws a crowd on sunny days. Such tourist hotspots can feel impersonal. Not the Refectory: the restaurant – the attractively refurbed heart of this historic, ecclesiastically styled building – is its own self-contained world of convivial chat, clinking cutlery and warm, attentive service. I dined alone but relaxed instantly. Including service, four courses, one side and a…

Fig and grapefruit twinkle SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | EASY 1 grapefruit 20ml crème de figue liquor(I used Edmond Briottet) 25ml grapefruit gin(I used Malfy Gin Rosa) dash of Angostura bitters125ml crémant, champagneor other dry sparkling wine, chilled figs, halved, to serve 1 First, peel the zest from the grapefruit, then slice the fruit in half and juice. Pour 25ml of the juice into a champagne or fluted wine glass along with the crème de figue, gin and bitters. Mix well. 2 Top up with sparkling wine, then twist a strip of the grapefruit zest over the top to release its oils. Garnish with a slice of fresh fig and the twist of grapefruit zest. Great as a welcome drink for any festive gathering. TRY What is CRÈME…

cook like a local When the phrase ‘Caribbean food’ is mentioned in Britain, it usually conjures a collection of vivid images all typically associated with Jamaica. Golden yellow patties and blackened jerk against an audio backdrop of Bob Marley-esque reggae. That said, the distance between Jamaica and the Caribbean nations to the east such as Guyana and Suriname is some 1,500 miles, roughly the same as between London and Istanbul. While culturally similar in many regards, what this distance reveals is a wealth of culture more readily seen and experienced to the east. While 90% of Jamaica’s population is comprised of West African descendants, in the likes of Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana and Suriname those of Indian heritage make up a third of the population, with a melting pot of…

We live with our three children, 20 chickens of varying shapes, sizes, ages and colours, two collie labs and a tortoise, Sydney, in a Grade II listed farmhouse built in 1699, and surrounded by two acres of overgrown garden and, bizarrely, six garages, left over from when it was a farm and now filled with stored furniture for our new hotel and two classic 1960s cars. The kitchen is fairly small, in an awkward L shape, with the staircase to one side and an old fireplace in the middle, opposite a white Aga. We inherited the design from the previous owners and have painted the original oak cottage-style doors an Annie Sloan blue, added brass doorknobs, stained the worktops dark oak and improved the lighting. Plain English it is not,…

show off Stollen buns MAKES16 | PREP40 MINS PLUS SOAKING AND PROVING | COOK 20 MINS | MORE EFFORT 250g sultanas100g dried cranberries 1 lemon, zested and juiced1 orange, zested and juiced500g strong white flour, plus extra for dusting3 tsp mixed spice1/2 tsp ground cloves7g (1 sachet) fast-action dried yeast300g butter, softened, plus extra for the baking sheet150ml milk3 eggs500g marzipanicing sugar, for dusting 1 Tip the sultanas and cranberries into a bowl with the juices from the lemon and orange, then cover and leave for at least 2 hrs to soak. 2 To make the dough, tip the zests, flour, spices, yeast, 100g of the butter, all the milk, eggs and ¼ tsp of salt into the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook attachment, and mix…

eating Sprouts Or rather, more sprouts, shredded fresh in salads with ripped mint leaves and a black pepper and orange vinaigrette. This makes a good side for rich Christmas food as well as an excellent sandwich filler with left-over turkey, stuffing and bread sauce. Available everywhere, but buy very fresh ones. drinking Griottines in fizz These wild Morello cherries soaked in alcohol have quite the kick. Drop one (or more) in a glass of fizz or a cocktail. They are also excellent for making a super quick sauce for desserts, or served with a scoop of whipped cream on panettone. £32.99 for 1 litre, souschef.co.uk reading These Delicious Things by Jane Hodson, Lucas Hollweg and Clerkenwell Boy (£25, Harper Collins) Stuffed with recipes and anecdotes, this cookbook is also for…

Turkey ramen SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY Arrange some left-over turkey (about 4 handfuls) in a wide, deep frying pan. Add a carrot, cut into thin slices (a mandolin is useful), 1-2 finely sliced spring onions, 6-8 shredded brussels sprouts and some slices of peeled ginger. Fill the pan with 300-400ml ramen or chicken or turkey stock, bring to a simmer, then nestle 4 blocks of ramen noodles into the stock, cover and cook until the ramen is cooked through – if you don’t stir, the ramen stays in place as a rough square, which makes it easier to portion out when you serve it. Take off the lid and add some spoonfuls of chilli sauce (we like White Mausu peanut rãyu), sesame…

effortless! Herb and spice feta These feta balls are simple enough to make but I chose four different flavourings to give them a little extra dimension. They will keep submerged in oil in an unopened jar in the fridge for up to a week. MAKES12 BALLS | PREP 20 MINS EASY | V GF 200g feta, cut into 12 pieces1 tsp sumac1½ tsp dried wild oregano2 tsp pul biber chilli flakes2 tsp nigella seedsextra-virgin olive oil flatbread, warm, to serve 1 Shape the feta pieces into balls using your hands, then roll three of the balls in one of the four spices until evenly coated all over. Repeat with the remaining balls and spices until you have three of each flavour. 2 Put them all onto a small serving plate,…

Baileys cake A real crowd favourite, this three-tiered beauty is all dark chocolate and Baileys Irish Cream – it’s perfect for an impressive Christmas dessert Total time 1 hr plus cooling Easy Serves 10-12 crissy2zap says:“This cake was deliciously rich and decadent, and so easy to make. I made it for my partner’s birthday. I will be keeping this recipe, that’s for sure.” Ingredients 250g butter, plus extra for the tin200g soft light brown sugar 200g dark chocolate, cut into pieces, plus extra to decorate150ml Baileys Irish Cream 250g self-raising flour 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 100g cocoa powder 4 eggs 150g yogurt BAILEYS BUTTERCREAM 250g unsalted butter, softened400g icing sugar 50ml Baileys Irish Cream Method STEP 1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter and line the base…

signature dish Bébé Bob is younger sibling to Bob Bob Ricard (of champagne button fame), so high glamour is the name of the game. Ultra-comfortable and gorgeous to look at, the venue is a clever backdrop to what is essentially a menu centred around roast chicken (Vendée or Landes). But, what roast chicken. Rotisseried and served with roast potatoes (chicken fat, of course) and/or chips, and a salad, if you like. Super-luxe starters include three types of caviar or VSOP prawn cocktail, and desserts offer an option of lemon-infused vodka served at -18C, or a perfectly formed paris-brest. Drink champagne, or choose a wine, of which there are a commendable amount served by the glass. bebebob.com Bébé Bob roast chicken At the restaurant, the chicken is cooked on a rotisserie,…

HOME BAR HACKS Party drinks From Christmas Day cocktails to festive gatherings with friends, many of us like to make a little more effort with drinks this season. Advance prep is key. Get in plenty of citrus fruits for cocktails and garnishes – lemons and limes are a must, and oranges and grapefruit also work well. Bottles of citrus juice are convenient back-ups. Prepare other garnishes you might need, such as olives for martinis or sprigs of herbs for G&Ts and highballs. Whip up sugar syrup for sweetening drinks (use our recipe on Olivemagazine.com) and buy plenty of mixers, such as tonic and sparkling water, ginger ale and premium soft drinks. Make sure any kit you need – such as chopping boards, mixing glasses and cocktail shakers – is close…

1 LOCAL FOOD This is key to Norwegian cuisine. In many homes and restaurants, people are turning to small farms to get their meat, dairy, fruit and vegetables. Many hotels get their produce from no more than a few kilometres away. It’s normal for hotels to produce their own honey, cheese and butter, smoke their own salmon and cure meat to make salami – some even make apple juice and roast coffee. 2 FANTASTIC FORAGING There’s a bounty of ingredients just waiting to be picked along Norway’s rugged coastline, in the fjords, mountains and forests. Many Norwegians believe foraging is vital, as it stops all this food going to waste. There’s even a law called allmennhetens høstingsrett, which gives everyone the right to forage. Popular picks include lingonberries, blueberries, chanterelles,…

Trendspotting MARTINI Martinis are technically spare, simple drinks. You might choose between shaken or stirred, gin or vodka, an olive or a twist, or a gibson or a vesper, but mainly you know where you are with a martini. Now the options are endless, a trend we are very much on board with. Try the oyster martini at Fallow (vodka infused with oyster shells), dabble with a mezcal fig leaf infusion at Kol, order a Granny Smith gimlet with Boatyard double gin and martini ambrato at Rondo in the Hoxton Hotel, a cloudy version made with sake at The Sea, The Sea in Hoxton or a lip-tingling Szechuan Gibson with Szechuan oil and white balsamic vinegar at Common Decency at NoMad London. For a full savoury version pick this one…

Chile-basted chicken with caper chimichurri SERVES2 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 50 MINS PLUS RESTING | EASY | GF 250g Yukon Gold or Maris Piper potatoes3 garlic cloves, 2 finely grated, 1 left whole1 tbsp aleppo pepper or ¾ tsp dried chilli flakes2 tsp smoked paprikaextra-virgin olive oil½ chicken (leg and breast attached) or any combination of 2 bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts or legs1 small shallot, coarsely choppedsmall bunch of coriander, coarsely chopped1 green chilli, coarsely chopped1 tbsp capers, drained2 tbsp sherry vinegar 1 Heat the oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Thinly slice the potatoes into 5mm-thick rounds. 2 In a small bowl, stir together the grated garlic, aleppo pepper, paprika and a few glugs of olive oil – enough to turn it into a wet sand-like paste. 3…

effortless! 1 Sticky date and sausage traybake SERVES4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY 400g baby potatoes, halved or quartered if large200g brussels sprouts, halved1 red onion, peeled and sliced into 8 wedges150g Medjool dates, pitted and torn in half8 good-quality sausages5g oregano 3 thyme sprigs 65ml olive oil2 tbsp red wine vinegar2 tbsp maple syrup1 tbsp wholegrain mustard 2 garlic cloves, grated½ tsp ground cinnamon1 tsp nigella seeds1 tsp ground cumin10g parsley, roughly chopped 1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a large roasting tray with baking paper for easy clean up. Fill the tray with the potatoes, sprouts, onion and dates. Nestle the sausages on top, then sprinkle over the oregano and thyme. 2 Mix the oil, vinegar, maple syrup, mustard, garlic,…

SERVES4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS EASY | GF 1 tbsp vegetable oil1 onion, thinly sliced10cm piece ginger, finely grated3 garlic cloves, crushed300g left-over cooked turkey, shredded2 tsp ground cumin1½ tsp ground coriander1 tsp kashmiri chilli powder½ tsp turmeric1 tbsp tomato purée400ml tin coconut milk400g tin chickpeas1 tbsp smooth peanut buttercoriander, to servenaanor rice, to serve 1 Heat the oil in a large pan and cook the onion over a medium-low heat for 8-10 mins or until soft. Season, stir in the ginger and garlic, and cook for 1 min until fragrant. Stir in the turkey along with the dried spices and tomato purée, and cook for another 2 mins, stirring well. 2 Pour in the coconut milk and chickpeas (including the liquid). Add the peanut butter,…

restaurants The festive season is a time for fantasy, entertainment and glamour, particularly when eating out. From flamboyant interiors, to DJs and live music, cute tableside theatre or watching closely as chefs work their magic, we want to see and eat extraordinary things this Christmas. Here’s O’s pick of venues delivering dazzling food with a dash of drama. Have a ball. TABLESIDE THEATRE TROLLEY GOOD The Game Bird, London Overseen by Lisa Goodwin-Allen, executive chef at Lancashire’s Michelin-starred Northcote, The Game Bird delivers upscale, modern British dining within luxe hotel The Stafford. Dishes might include duck pie or crispy cod with warm tartare sauce. Bespoke trolleys are used to serve smoked fish to guests, carve Sunday’s grass-fed British beef tableside, or to showcase the afternoon tea cake selection (£70pp). Mains…

KEEP AN EYE ON @OLIVEmagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR OF THE ABBEY INN Cod loin, squash and chive velouté Cod is a beautiful fish and bang in season during winter – a staple on our seasonal menu at the Abbey Inn. We serve our cod loin alongside Crown Prince, an incredible variety of winter squash with a blue skin and vibrant orange flesh. However, you can use butternut squash for this recipe, which is just as good. SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK50 MINS | EASY 1 Crown Prince squashor large butternut squash2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for fryingfew sprigs of thyme600ml white wine600ml fish stock200g crème fraîche1/2 lemon, juiced3 tbsp chopped chives4 skinless cod fillets100g unsalted butter, plus 2 tbsp 1 Heat the oven…

Rosie Birkett is an award-winning food and cookery writer, food stylist and cookbook author based in London and on the Kent coast. Follow Rosie on Substack at rosiebirkett.substack.com. Navigating the kitchen between Christmas and the new year involves not only culinary creativity, but also the art of self-care. As the dust settles from the holiday whirlwind, it’s crucial to recognise the inevitable fatigue that accompanies being the cook in your house. Make sure you take a moment to breathe and direct everyone to the kitchen to load up on turkey sandwiches (preferably bringing you one) while you put your feet up with a nice big glass of something delicious. I insist on at least three days without cooking after the main event, but then usually get that itch to cook…