Indholdsfortegnelse for December/January 2020 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, The end of the year is my favorite time to reflect on what I’ve learned and accomplished. With All Sewn Up on page 88, you can do the same. As part of sewing and making with intention, we encourage you to pause and take a step back to appreciate the fact that you’ve made time for your hobby, sewn some things you love and learned knew skills, all while being a busy human. That’s cause for celebration! We’re also sharing our sewing resolutions for 2020 on page 80, when you’re ready for planning ideas. My personal style tends to be more on the casual end of things, but this issue always gets me in the mood for fancy makes. I love the Zadie Jumpsuits on page 44. As…

1. Check out the new Bernette B77 from Bernina’s new Bernette 70 series. This machine offers sewists comfort features like Bernette Dual Feed, slide-speed control, multi-function knobs, semi-automatic needle threader and a maximum sewing speed of 1,000 SPM. It boasts sewing functions like stitch-plate detection, stitch width limitation, presser foot recommendation and a Bernette Creative Consultant. bernina.com 2. Get inspired every day with the 365+ Embroidery Combinations Perpetual Calendar. A compilation of designs from Joyful Daily Stitching by Valerie Bothell, each day shows a unique stitch/bead combination and breaks it down into its component parts so it can be easily re-created. The designs are intended for decorating crazy quilt seams, but can be repurposed for many embroidery applications. Best of all, it’s perpetual, so you can use it year after…

ABOUT BIAS CUTS The bias grain is the stretchy part of the fabric and will add more give to a garment. A garment portion cut on the bias folds gracefully for a more fluid drape. Bias-cut garments also lie closer to the body. Cutting on the bias offers more pliability for soft curving, essential for trims such as binding, piping, button loops and spaghetti straps. Bias-cut fabric stretches easily, so take care during construction to avoid uneven stretching, pulling or twisting. Overfitting will cause pulls and weak seams. Serging will allow the garment to stretch to its finished length. For maximum stretch, allow the garment to hang 24 hours before finishing. Bias cutting is used for soft draping and also for design effects, such as striped yokes or contrast. For…

For this seam finishing application, use 5/8" seam allowances and the following steps. • Pin a bias strip with right sides together to one seam allowance. • Stitch the strip to the seam allowance using a ¼" seam. If necessary, stitch with the strip side touching the feed dogs so that it’s stable as you sew. Press the bias strip flat and away from the center of the seam. • Repeat with a second bias strip on the remaining side of the seam allowance. Cut any excess length away at the end of each seam. • Wrap each strip around the edge of the seam allowance snugly and pin to secure them. Stitch each in the ditch, one side at a time, removing the pins as you stitch. Slant your…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one ornament. • Three 1"×2" rectangles of cardboard• Three 4"×6" rectangles of coordinating fabrics• 8" length of 1/8"- or 1/4"-wide ribbon• 6" length of thick metallic thread• Hand-sewing needle• Fabric glue• Binding clips (See “Sources.”) PREPARE To create one fabric bolt, fold one fabric rectangle into thirds lengthwise with wrong sides together; press. Wrap the fabric around one cardboard piece. Apply glue to the fabric ends; use a binding clip to secure (1). Repeat to create the remaining two fabric bolts. Once the glue is dry, stack the fabric bolts together with the right sides facing up. Apply glue between the bolts; use a binding clip to secure (2). Once the glue is dry, wrap the ribbon around the widthwise…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at videos.sewdaily.com between Dec. 1, 2019 and Jan. 31, 2020 to get the pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew this winter wardrobe must-have — with us! By registering, you're automatically entered to win an OPALTM 690Q sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. Wool is easy to sew but the added bulk can be tricky. Get a jump on your winter-coat making with the OPAL 690Q machine. The exclusive Sensor SystemTM and Electronic Self-Adjusting Thread Tension ensure your layers feed evenly through the machine for an impeccable finish. THE PATTERN The Copper Mountain Coat is the perfect starting place if you’re new to coat-making. Unlined and with a single button closure, this wool coat creates a classic silhouette combined with cool colorblocking. The shaping is…

SEW BAGS by Hilarie Wakefield Dayton Sew stylish shoulder bags, totes, clutches and drawstring bags! Whether you’re a total beginner or a confident sewist, you’ll love this collection of thirteen bags you can truly make your own. Turn flat fabric into handbags of any shape as you learn the basics of construction, transferring a pattern and finishing details. Full-sized patterns are included. ctpub.com A YEAR OF CREATIVITY by Petra Hoeksema, Lidy Nooij, Miriam Catshoek & Bregje Konings Learn how to throw the perfect creative party with your friends. A "craft date" is a fun get-together with a handful of creative friends in which you surprise each other with craft and DIY projects using cool materials, inspire each other and make beautiful things together. Share ideas, discover new inspiration and find…

“My greatest extravagance is the dresses that I make... more so, the ones my mom assists me with. They are such a treasure and so meaningful.” SN: Describe your perfect day. TS: Doing absolutely nothing. That day rarely exists, but when it does, boy, oh boy, am I a happy mama! SN: What’s your best way to decompress? TS: I have two ways that I decompress. One way is to sew the most dramatic garment. I really enjoy the process. Another way is to cuddle up with my family on the couch and do absolutely nothing. SN: What’s your greatest extravagance? TS: My greatest extravagance is the dresses that I make... more so, the ones my mom assists me with. They are such a treasure and so meaningful. SN: What’s…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Basic woven top pattern (such as Coram Top by Allie Olson)• Fabric & notions (according to the pattern envelope)• Pattern or tracing paper PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. Position the front pattern on a flat work surface. Add a 1/2" seam allowance to the center-front edge. Using pattern or tracing paper, add a 5"×10" rectangle 1" from the center-front lower edge (1). Designate as the bow. From the fabric, cut two fronts, one 1 1/2"×5" rectangle for the bow tie and the remaining pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions. CONSTRUCT…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 1 yard each of sequin fabric, interlock knit (lining) & 2"-wide elastic• Matching all-purpose thread• Pattern or tracing paper• Serger (optional) PREPARE Measure your hip circumference, and then subtract 2"; record. Divide the recorded measurement in half; record as the skirt width. Measure from your waistline to the desired skirt length, and then add 1"; record as the skirt length. CUT From the sequin fabric, cut two rectangles according to the skirt width and length measurements, making sure the sequins run lengthwise along the rectangles. Position one sequin rectangle right side up on a flat work surface. To shape the skirt panel, measure and mark 1" from the upper-left corner along the upper edge. Measure and mark 5" below the first mark along the left…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of faux leather or vinyl & heavyweight one-sided fusible stabilizer (see “Sources.”)• 5" square of black heat-transfer vinyl (see “Sources.”)• 12" matching plastic zipper• Matching all-purpose thread• 1"-wide D-ring• Two 1"-wide slide buckles & D-ring swivel clasps• Binding clips (See “Sources.”)• Removable fabric marker CUT Download the Bear Essentials Backpack pattern at sewnews.com/web_extras until Jan. 31, 2020. Purchase the pattern at interweave.com/sewing after the expiration date. Print out the pattern, and then cut out. From the fabric, cut two main panels, four ears, two 2 1/2"×25" strips for the straps, one 2 1/2"×16" strip for the tabs, one 3"×17" rectangle for the side and two 3 1/2"×12" rectangles for the zipper panels. Transfer all pattern markings. From the fusible vinyl, cut two…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1/4 yard of drapey fabric (such as rayon, silk or crêpe)• Matching all-purpose thread CUT To create a large bow, cut one rectangle 8 1/2"× the fabric width. To create a small bow, cut one 5"×28" rectangle. Fold the fabric in half widthwise with wrong sides together. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Designate the short unfolded edge as the right edge and the long unfolded edge as the upper edge. Measure and mark 3" from the upper-right edge along the upper edge. Draw a diagonal line to connect the mark with the lower-right corner (1). Cut along the line, and then unfold the fabric. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam allowances. Fold the rectangle in half length- wise with right sides together. Stitch the short ends…

WAIST MANAGEMENT When making pants and skirts, it’s great to have some options to finish the waist. Just how you do it will depend on a few things to determine what works best for you: the style of your garment, the length of your abdomen/waist area and what is comfortable on you. Read on to explore three of the most popular options. STRAIGHT WAISTBAND This waistband type is typically cut on the straight grain or across the grain of the fabric. The style is just as described: a straight piece of fabric cut the length needed to go around the waist, plus extra for overlap or underlap to add a buttonhole and button or hook and eye, to keep the waist closed and secure. Add at least 2" on each…

Puffer jackets are not just for the ski slopes anymore! High fashion puffer coats are taking the winter streets by storm, worn by models and celebrities in metallics and bright colors. Try out this trend for the winter: you’ll look fabulous and be extra warm. COAT PATTERNS Opt for a billowing silhouette coat pattern that has minimal seamlines to better highlight the quilting lines of the fabric. SCARF PATTERNS Find a pattern with a simple straight shape with or without a hood. TIP: Draft one yourself for a custom shape and length. FINAL TOUCHES To create an entire look instead of just throwing a jacket over your outfit, wear a sleek pair of trousers that pull from a color in your accessories. Then top it off with a matching hat…

Play & Win! What is it? Pictured at left is part of a photo from this issue. When you find it, enter online at sewdaily.com or send a postcard with the page you found it on to Sew News, Hide & Seek, 741 Corporate Circle, Ste. A, Golden, CO 80401. Responses are due Nov. 30, 2019. From the correct responses, we’ll randomly draw five winners, one of which could be you. Congratulations to the October/November 2019 Hide & Seek winners! Susanne H., Newton Square, PA Adriana G., Arelta, CA Ellen R., Elk River, MN Janet B., Dobbs Ferry, NY Karen Von D., Cambridge, WI…

INTERFACING INTRODUCTION Interfacing is a type of fabric applied to portions of a garment on the wrong side to provide additional support, shape or structure. For example, interfacing is commonly applied to collars and lapels to add body and enable them to keep their crisp shape. Areas that receive a lot of use, such as button bands and zipper closures, also require interfacing to strengthen the fabric and protect it from wear. Interfacing also prevents fabric from stretching out of shape around curved areas, such as a neckline or armscye. The most commonly interfaced areas include front and back closures (button bands, zippers, etc.), plackets, collars, cuffs, lapels, facings, hems and details, such as welts or other pocket flaps. In most cases, the pattern guidesheet provides instruction as to the…

Upgrade your holiday style with something unexpected: a high-end jumpsuit! Choose from two hacks for a look that’s completely custom. BLACK METALLIC JUMPSUIT Add satin bias binding and upscale finishes to your favorite jumpsuit pattern, perfect for high-end fabrics that may fray. Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Wrap jumpsuit pattern (such as Paper Theory Patterns Zadie Jumpsuit)• Metallic fabric (such as jacquard, brocade, satin or silk)• All-purpose thread• Bias tape for interior seams (store-bought or make your own)• Satin bias tape for neckline and sleeve binding (store-bought or make your own) CUT Before sewing, make a muslin- fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make and transfer any necessary fit adjustments and markings to the pattern pieces. Depending on the base pattern you’re using, adjust all the seam allowances to 5/8”.…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting short-sleeve woven blouse pattern with scoop neckline (such as Scout Tee by Grainline Studio) • Woven fabric (type and amount according to the pattern envelope) • 1/2 yard of contrasting woven fabric (binding) • Matching all-purpose thread • Rotary cutting system • Pattern or tracing paper PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace the sleeve pattern onto new pattern paper, transferring all the markings. Draw a 13" straight vertical line from the shoulder-seam marking on the sleeve cap; designate as the cutting line. Mark the lowest point on the vertical…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1/8 yard of velvet• Matching all-purpose thread• Tailor’s chalk or removable fabric marker• Cardstock• Elastic hair tie PREPARE Download the Best Tressed pattern from sewnews.com/web_extras. Trace the pattern onto cardstock; cut out. Fold the velvet in half lengthwise with right sides together. Position the cardstock pattern over the velvet wrong side. Trace the perimeter and transfer all pattern markings using tailor’s chalk on dark velvet or a removable fabric marker on light velvet (1). CONSTRUCT Stitch the bow along the traced line, beginning and ending the stitching at the pattern markings. Cut out the bow, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance (2). Turn the bow right side out through the opening. Hold the iron slightly above the bow with steam for approximately ten seconds. Remove the…

PAULINE BRUCE (“Holiday Wrapping” — page 44), aka @sewuthinkucan on IG, has been sewing since age five. She expresses her creativity through pattern hacking by customizing commercial sewing patterns to create garments that are unique and reflect her personality. Pauline is fascinated by the versatility of stripes and loves to manipulate them in a variety of ways when making her clothes. She’s a homeschool mom who currently lives in northern California with her husband and three children. RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal: Winter Formal” — page 26) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. She coaches sewists of all skill levels, in classes and on her blog, to stitch up a fun and…