Indholdsfortegnelse for Fall 2021 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, Okay, you may want to sit down for this issue, friends. We have a lot going on! First up, you’ve probably noticed that this issue includes a heavy dose of denim. Is there a more iconic or beloved fabric in existence? Denim is versatile, easy to sew, wears in well . . . it’s a whole vibe, and we love it so much! Whether you’re working with yardage or scraps (our favorite!), we have multiple projects for you to showcase your love for this amazing fabric. Grab your denim stash and sew up these projects! • Throwback Bucket Hat with cool, decorative topstitching (page 50) • Jean Genius Coat (page 57) with a scrappy pieced facing • Easy upcycled accessories so you can be Adorned in Denim (page…

SN: Describe your perfect day. KP: It starts with a cup of milky Earl Grey tea and involves zero interruptions as I sew an entire garment from start to finish, and then sit down to watch TV while knitting in the evening. The dream! SN: What’s your must-have tool in your studio? KP: My LDH 10" Fabric Shears. I have the midnight colorway, which was a Christmas gift from my mother, and there is no way I would tackle a sewing project without them! SN: Where do you find inspiration? KP: I'm constantly finding inspiration on social media, both from ready-to-wear fashions and also from other makers. I think particularly since so much of my fashion experience has been that I can’t find items in my size, lots of my…

Sew News: What do you love most about sewing? Francisco Diaz: I like that learning to sew and being able to make my own clothes has given me the freedom to express myself in brand new ways that weren’t possible before. For most of my life I was confined to the “male” section of the department store that comes with such limited variety in fabric, print and silhouette. Sewing has allowed me to make clothing outside of the norm that fit my frame and in colors, shapes and styles that aren’t typically available for my body. SN: Who has been influential in your sewing journey? FD: My friend Sara was the main inspiration to learning to sew. We went on a trip to Japan together, and she took our group…

SUPPLIES Supplies listed are enough to make one pillow cover. • Used/thrifted denim garments (jeans, jackets, etc.) • Denim scraps from your stash • Coordinated fabric or denim for backing (181/2" square) • 18" square pillow form • 12" zipper • Scissors or rotary cutter • Coordinating thread • Supplies to make DIY bleach gel (¾ cup water, ¼ cup cornstarch, 5 to 8 Tbsp bleach, empty glue bottle or jar) (optional) • Color removing paste (such as Jacquard Brand deColourant; optional) • Foam brushes • Rotary cutter • Cutting machine and SVG stencil file (optional) • Acetate or stencil vinyl (optional) NINE-PATCH PILLOW PREPARE Cut nine squares out of your used or thrifted denim. The squares should be 61/4" square. tip Using different shades and colors of denim…

SUPPLIES • Shawl-collar jacket pattern with patch pockets, waistband tie and exposed neckline facing (such as Lilac Wrap pattern by Paradiso Designs) • Denim fabric in variety of colors (amount according to measurements and desired color-blocking layout) • Size 100/16 denim needle • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Rotary cutting system • Pattern or tracing paper • Large gridded mat (optional) • Serger or pinking shears (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Create multiple copies of the technical line drawing on the pattern envelope. Experiment with different color-blocking options on the line drawings to…

FABRIC SELECTION & YARDAGE Choose mediumweight denim for this project. Lightweight denim doesn’t withstand wear, and heavyweight denim makes the finished skirt too heavy. The required fabric yardage depends on your measurements, the fabric width, the number of fabric colors desired and how the skirt is pieced together. Typically, a low-waistline measurement of 42" or less requires a total of 31/2 yards of 44"-wide fabric or a total of 2 yards of 60"-wide fabric. SUPPLIES • Mediumweight denim fabric in variety of colors (amount according to measurements and desired color-blocking layout) • All-purpose thread • Pattern or tracing paper DRAFT Note: If the resulting number in a formula has a decimal, round up to the nearest whole number. Measure your body circumference 4" below your natural waistline; record as the…

PRINT MIXING BASICS To ease into the trend, choose prints and patterns in the same color family but in different scales. For example, pair small and large polka dot prints or thin and thick stripes. Another subtle option is to pair two identical fabric prints in opposite colorways. For a bold look, pair vastly different prints together. For example, pair florals with geometrics with the same base color. For an extreme look that’s also a stash-buster, use a different print for each garment section. To achieve a cohesive design, select fabrics with a common color. PATTERN LAYOUT Select a pattern with multiple sections, such as a maxi wrap dress. Create multiple copies of the technical line drawing on the pattern envelope. Experiment with print placement on the line drawings to…

Overalls can be a controversial style choice past the age of 10, but we’re embracing this well-loved and comfortable look that is back in the forefront of fashion. You can’t get more classic than denim overalls, and we all need something classically comfortable (but stylish) to wear while venturing back out into the world. No matter what your style, you can make them your own! Consider a high fashion look with studs as seen in the Moschino 2020 Pre-Fall Collection shown on the subway, or sleek and slim fitting on the street. You may fall so much in love with the silhouette again that you’ll make several different versions! OVERALL PATTERN Opt for a long-legged overall or dungarees pattern that either buckles or buttons up over your favorite fall layering…

BUTTONHOLE TYPES Select the correct buttonhole for the chosen fabric and project type. Box (Standard): Light- to mediumweight fabrics, such as those used for blouses, trousers and shirts. Rounded: Medium- to heavyweight fabrics, such as those used for shirts, jackets and coats. Keyhole: Heavyweight fabrics, such as those used for jackets and coats. The keyhole provides extra room to push larger buttons through the opening. Stretch: Stretch fabric, such as knits, used for shirts and skirts. BUTTONHOLE LENGTH Learn how to accurately measure different button types to achieve precise buttonhole lengths. For flat buttons, measure the button diameter, add 1/8" and record. For large or shank buttons, measure the button diameter and height; add together. Add 1/8" to the measurement and record. For rounded, ball or oddly shaped buttons, wrap…

Like many people, the first time I saw draping was on the show Project Runway. Each week, I watched in awe as contestants employed this technique to sculpt gorgeous silhouettes out of fabric. Instead of starting with a flat pattern, they pinned the fabric directly on the dress form to develop their ideas, sometimes with the fabric following close to the body and other times creating dramatic volume. I was so impressed. And intimidated. Even though I’d been sewing my own wardrobe for years, draping felt out of reach for me at the time. Draping was for trained fashion designers, not amateurs like me, right? LEARNING BY PLAYING In the early days of Beatrice Forms, one of the first dress forms we made went to someone who’d recently learned to…

SUPPLIES • 5/8 yard of heavyweight denim • 1/4 yard of mediumweight woven print (lining) • Heavyweight fusible interfacing (amount according to interfacing width) • 24" length of 1"-wide grosgrain ribbon. • Thread: all-purpose and topstitching PREPARE Download and print the pattern at www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; cut out. From the denim, cut one upper crown, four lower crowns and two brims. From the lining, cut one upper crown and one lower-crown lining on the fold. From the interfacing, cut one upper crown and four lower crowns. Fuse the interfacing pieces to the corresponding denim upper- and lower-crown wrong sides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. CONSTRUCT Use 5/8" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Pin the brims with right sides together along the outer edge; stitch. Notch the seam allowance up to, but not…

SUPPLIES • Ready-made or handmade woven skirt (See “Sources.”) • 11/3 yards of coordinating or matching woven fabric • Thread: matching all-purpose and topstitching • Four jean buttons (See “Sources.”) CONSTRUCT From the fabric, cut two 4"x47" rectangles on the straight grain. Press each rectangle long edge 1/2" toward the wrong side. Fold each rectangle in half lengthwise with wrong sides together; pin each rectangle short end. Stitch each rectangle short end using a 1/2" seam allowance. Turn each suspender right side out, aligning the long edges; press flat. Topstitch each suspender perimeter using topstitching thread and 1/8" seam allowance. Measure and mark the first buttonhole 1/2" from and perpendicular to one rectangle short end and centered lengthwise within the suspender according to the chosen button size. tip The…

SUPPLIES • Ready-made denim jacket • 8 yards of 1/4"-wide double-fold bias tape • Fabric paint and markers (see “Sources.”) • Paint brushes • Chalk tracing paper and tracing wheel • Open-toe presser foot • Cardboard • Pattern weights (optional) PREPARE Download the template at www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. If desired, add additional elements to the design using photo-editing software or by hand after the design is printed out. Enlarge or reduce the finished design to fit the jacket-back measurements. Print the design template. Position the jacket back right side up on a flat work surface. Position the tracing paper with the chalk side down over the jacket back. Center the template right side up over the jacket back; secure with pins or pattern weights. Firmly trace the design using a tracing wheel.…

SUPPLIES • Dress pattern • 3 yards of linen-blend fabric (A; see “Source.”) • 1 yard each of two coordinating linen-blend fabrics (B and C; see “Source.”) • Fusible interfacing (amount according to interfacing width) • 14–20"-long invisible zipper • Matching all-purpose thread CUT Download the pattern at www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies;print and cut out. From fabric A, cut two front panels, two backs, two sleeves, one front-neckline facing, two back-neckline facings, one front-hem facing on the fold and one back-hem facing on the fold according to the cutting layout on the pattern download. Cut one strip panel from fabric B. Cut one strip panel from fabric C, making sure to flip the pattern piece wrong side up before cutting. From the interfacing, cut one front-neckline facing and two back-neckline facings. Transfer all…

RAE CUMBIE (“Curve Appeal”—page 26) is the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, which offers patterns for modern wardrobe basics that focus on fit and include artful design options. In classes and on her blog, she coaches sewists of all skill levels to stitch up a fun and comfortable wardrobe and design more creatively. www.fitforartpatterns.com ALISON HUGHES (“Practical Draping” —page 38) is an enthusiastic garment sewist, knitter, software engineer and hobby farmer. In 2017, she left her career in big tech to co-found Beatrice Forms, where she created the world’s first custom dress form made from a smartphone body scan. Through her online draping courses and growing sewing community The Beatrice Collective, she empowers sewists to go beyond simply sewing other people’s patterns to designing their own personalized fashion…

SEW NEWS: You were one of the first designers to offer plus-size patterns. How has the landscape changed over the years? JENNY RUSHMORE: The indie sewing world is unrecognizable from when I learned to sew in 2010. Back then, there were no indie sewing patterns that came in my size—a very average American 18/20—and only a handful of Big 4 patterns that I could fit into. Reluctantly, I learned how to do lots of pattern alterations like full bust adjustments, but eventually I decided to be the change I wanted to see. In 2015, I launched Cashmerette in sizes 12 to 28 (now 32!) and cup sizes C–H. Since then, there’s been a huge amount of change, especially in the past two years: a lot of brands previously in a…

SUPPLIES • 1 yard each of denim fabric and linen (lining) • 3/4 yard of contrasting denim fabric • Two 2" squares of fusible interfacing • Matching all-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker • Needles: hand sewing and size 100/16 denim • Two 15 mm-diameter rivet or stud snaps • 2"-wide metal ring PREPARE Download the pattern at www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies.Print and cut out. From the denim, cut one center panel and two snap loops. From the contrasting denim, cut four side panels and two handles. From the lining, cut one center panel, four side panels and one pocket. Transfer all pattern markings. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Use 1/8" seam allowance for topstitching. Fold the pocket in half along the foldline with right sides together; press. Stitch the…

Learn how to add custom angled pockets to a woven, A-line skirt pattern with a center-front button placket. • Download and print the pocket pattern from www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies; cut out. • Cut two pockets from the desired skirt fabric. Serge both pocket perimeters. • Fold each pocket upper edge 11/2" toward the wrong side; press. • Position one pocket wrong side up on a flat work surface. Measure and mark the hem allowance 1/2" from the long side edge and 1/4" below the adjacent upper folded edge. Cut along the line to reduce the hem-allowance bulk (A). • Repeat for the opposite pocket. • Topstitch each pocket 11/4" from the folded upper edge. • Position one pocket wrong side up on a flat work surface. Press one pocket lower edge 1/2"…

SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting, woven blouse pattern (such as Cielo Dress & Top by Closet Core Patterns; see “Source.”) • Woven fabric (type and amount according to the pattern envelope, plus 11/3 yards) • Matching all-purpose thread • Serger PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces for the short-sleeve blouse in the desired size. Shorten the blouse front and back lower edge 41/2". Prewash and dry the fabric. Measure the finished blouse lower-edge circumference; record. Double the recorded measurement; record as the peplum ruffle-length measurement. Measure one finished sleeve lower-edge circumference; record. Double the recorded measurement; record as the sleeve ruffle-length measurement. From the fabric, cut out the blouse pattern pieces according to the pattern instructions as well as two rectangles 12"x the sleeve ruffle-length measurement and two rectangles 12"x the peplum…

SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of canvas fabric (exterior) and woven print fabric (lining) • 7"x9" rectangle each of leather and mediumweight fusible interfacing • Matching all-purpose thread • Two 70" lengths of 1/4"-diameter cording • Removable fabric marker • Hand needle CUT Download the pattern at www.sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebiesuntil Nov. 30, 2021. Purchase the pattern at www.sewdaily.com after the expiration date. Print out the pattern, and then cut out. From the exterior fabric, cut two main panels and four 3"x31/4" casing tabs. From the lining fabric, cut two main panels. Designate one panel as the front panel and the remaining panel as the back panel. From the interfacing, cut two corners and two 11/4"x21/4" rectangles. From the leather, cut two corners and two 3/4"x13/4" strap tabs. Designate one strap-tab long edge…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at www.sewdaily.com now through Oct. 31, 2021 to get the free Belford Backpack pattern and video sew-along course. Then stitch up your dream fall backpack—with us! In addition to the free pattern and video, you’ll be automatically entered to win a new sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking and a pattern pack from Sew Vintagely. when you register. THE PATTERN With a unique, grommeted drawstring closure, the Belford Backpack blends fun features and great backpack basics. Sporty yet chic, the backpack features a large upper flap that perfect for customizing, an easy magnet closure and handy side pockets for a water bottle, keys or anything else you need to keep handy. Sew it in canvas or nylon for a sporty look, novelty print cottons for a…

ASIAN SEWIST COLLECTIVE New sewing podcast alert! If you are interested in learning about traditional Asian sewing and crafting techniques, hearing from Asian entrepreneurs in the sewing world and more, tune in to The Asian Sewist Collective, a group of people of Asian descent who sew. They live in different cities around the world and represent different Asian cultures and ethnicities. They explore the intersection of their identities and shared sewing practices through guest interviews, deep dives on history and culture and interesting discussions. Definitely one to add to your listening queue while sewing! Find their episodes wherever you get your podcasts or visit @asiansewistcollective for more details. #MYMAKESFORTHEMONTH If you are an indie sewing pattern lover or want to challenge yourself to make more, #MyMakesForTheMonth is a perfect hashtag…