Indholdsfortegnelse for 83 i Simply Sewing

The weather’s picking up and we’re heading for the nearest beach, park or nature spot to get plenty of use out of this month’s floral picnic set, all while looking the epitome of summer chic in Lisa Comfort’s gorgeous Penny dress, included with this jam-packed issue. If it’s more of a relaxed vibe you’re after, try your hand at Deer and Doe’s Azara skirt pattern in the softest chambray, or give upcycling a go with a versatile pinafore dress. For cooler evenings, try Sewing Bee star Juliet Uzor’s jacquard duster coat, plus get 20% off Atelier Brunette fabric at Minerva – we can’t wait to see your makes! WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

FLOWERS & THREADS Stitch in Bloom by Lora Avedian (Hardie Grant, £15) combines a love of nature and embroidery. It’s a celebration of the beauty and versatility of couching stitch for enhancing garments and accessories and creating statement decor. There are 15 botanical-inspired projects inside too, so you can embrace the joy of hand stitching. Take a look at @loraavedian. MADE TO MEASURE Shruti and Simon at Pattern Project have developed innovative custom-fit technology for sewists to have a pattern modified to their measurements. Fabric is then efficiently machine cut and sent out for sewing! Shop their latest patterns at pattern-project.com. NEW VENTURE Apricus, a brand established as part of the Young Enterprise Scheme, is an all-female company with sustainability and environmental friendliness at its core. Their recently launched thrifting…

SEW THE ULTIMATE TROUSERS If you’re heading back into the office soon, join a small group at Bristol Sewing School and make Sew Over It’s Ultimate Trousers. The workshop takes place on 24 July; book your place at bristolsewingschool.co.uk. FREE MOTION EMBROIDERY Create a unique machine embroidered piece to treasure with an online workshop with specialist Holly Edwards. Get in touch to pick a date and browse Holly’s other courses at hollyedwardstextiles.com. FASHION DESIGN FOR KIDS If you’ve got a budding Sewing Bee at home, sign them up for this virtual sewing course that demystifies dressmaking. This course is aimed at children between 8–12.courses.arkdefo.com…

The Penny Dress will never go out of style. This is a contemporary shirt dress with a nod to the 50s – as you’d expect from Sew Over It! A summer wardrobe must-have, you’ll love the comfort and movement in this midi design, and be sure to join in with the Penny Dress sharing online using the hashtag #soipennydressgallery on Instagram. We can’t wait to see your dresses! Whilst this dress has features galore – gathered dropped shoulders, an elasticated waist, a collar and a button-up bodice, it’s a lovely easy sew. If you’re new to sewing buttons, or looking for a refresher, turn to page 68 for our guide, and turn to page 24 to find out about Sew Over It’s exciting rebrand. YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric…

IT’S IN THE DETAILS This gorgeous blouse makes use of flattering design details including overlapping ruffled sleeves, clever pattern piecing and a pretty bow-tie back. MADE TO MATCH With a stylish ruffled top and tapered trousers both included in this pattern pack, you can create an entire coordinated outfit in one. FINISHED SEAMS This layered top features finished French seams, keeping everything neat on both the right and wrong sides of the garment. V1507 This loose-fitting blouse from Vogue Patterns features a glamorous ruffled front, bow-tie back and double-layered sleeves, all finished with neat French seams. The pattern also includes a pair of stylish tapered trousers with a raised front waist, handy side pockets and a narrow hem. sewdirect.com…

CUTLERY WRAP Save yourself the hassle of rummaging around for missing forks and teaspoons with a handy cutlery wrap. These are the perfect size for stashing in your picnic bag, and a good way of stopping a special picnic set from getting mixed up in the cutlery drawer... PICNIC BLANKET Whether you’re sitting in your own garden or your picnic is packed for a day out, brighten things up with a colourful and comfortable quilted picnic rug. Mix and match prints and designs for a striking blanket that you’ll enjoy showing off when the sun starts to shine. PICNIC BAG Pack the perfect afternoon tea in this insulated picnic bag. It’ll keep your strawberries and cream nice and cool and your warm drinks toasty. With carry handles, plenty of pockets…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 30x80cm (12x32in) ■ Lining fabric: 30x85cm (12x34in) ■ Felt: 25x60cm (10x24in) ■ Strap webbing: 1.5mx2.5cm (1¾ydx1in) ■ Cotton cord: 80cm (32in) ■ Metal swivel snap hooks: two, (25mm) (1in) ■ Metal D-rings: two, 25mm (1in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance 1cm (3/8in) ■ Measure the strap before cutting in order to adjust the size. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Main fabric: canvas, cotton, velvet ■ Lining fabric: lightweight cotton or satin FABRICS USED ■ Strawberry Fields by Rifle Paper co, riflepaperco.com CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Outer: two 30x25cm (117/8x97/8in) Drawstring Channel: two 8x27cm (31/8x105/8in) Step two From the felt cut: Felt Lining: two 30x25cm (117/8x97/8in) Step three From the lining fabric cut: Lining: two 30x25cm…

MAKE MY LEMONADE makemylemonade.com The Lucy & Lili set is an outfit with impact. The oversized jacket and buckle skirt gives a nod to both 70s and 80s style, and both pieces feature matching piped pockets. The skirt is available in a UK size 6–16, while the jacket goes from size 6–20. Follow #MakeMyLemonade for inspiration. DP STUDIO dpstudio-fashion.com DP Studio’s Classic Narrow Trousers pattern will be a timeless addition to your French-chic wardrobe. We love the skinny cigarette style, but there’s also the option of creating a flared leg for some added drama and shape. This must-have pattern is available in UK sizes 8–20. RÉPUBLIQUE DU CHIFFON republiqueduchiffon. com You can’t go wrong with a well-cut sweatshirt in your fashion arsenal, and this one is designed to let you…

In this workshop, Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor Roisin explains how to use a nifty duo – the button and buttonhole presser feet. THE BUTTONHOLE FOOT Push the slider back to open the button holder at the back of the foot. Magic! THE BUTTON FOOT This nifty foot has a wide front for stitching through the holes in buttons. Reattaching a button that has pinged off is a seemingly simple task that, once complete, can leave you either ready to conquer the world or ready for a lie-down. Today a button, tomorrow a wardrobe full of tailor-made clothes – a girl can dream, right? Stitching a buttonhole, on the other hand, can be a headache-inducing task that even some experienced sewists will attempt to avoid. The accompanying large presser foot…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Plain canvas: 90x110cm (36x44in) ■ Print canvas: 53x107cm (207/8x421/8in) ■ Cord, 12mm (½in): 130cm (51in) ■ Eyelets and tool: four, 14mm (5/8in) ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance CUTTING OUT Step one Draw a 33cm (13in) diameter circle and cut out. Step two From the plain canvas cut: Lining: 53x107cm (207/8x42¼in) Outer and Lining Base: two using your template. ATTACHING THE BASE Step one Fold the print canvas fabric in half widthways with right sides (RS) facing and pin. Step two Sew the short ends together. Step three Open to form a tube. Pin then stitch the Outer Base around one end, RS together. Repeat with the Lining and Lining Base. JOINING THE OUTER AND LINING Step one Turn the…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Pale pink wool felt: 23x95cm (9x37in) ■ Pink wool felt: 23x57cm (9x23in) ■ Dark grey wool felt: 7x6cm (3x2½in) ■ Peach wool felt: 8x5cm (3x2in) ■ White wool felt: 6x3½cm (2½x1½in) ■ Yellow wool felt: 14x8cm (5½x3in) ■ Pale pink, pink, salmon pink, yellow, white, dark grey and black stranded cotton ■ White bobble trim: 14cm (5½in) ■ Seed beads and iridescent sequins ■ Polyester toy filling: 150g ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE ■ 50cm (20in) tall NOTES ■ Use 1/8in seams throughout, unless otherwise indicated. ■ Templates on page 90 or download from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ Fabric measurements are WxH. CUTTING OUT Step one Download and cut out the templates. Step two From the pale pink wool felt, cut: Body: one pair…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

We’re ready for some summer sewing this month! Treat yourself to a gorgeous new maxi dress with a creative pattern hack on page 64, then stitch up a new bag to wear with it by making L’Atelier de Maya’s floral drawstring design on page 56. If you’re starting to plan some weekends away, have a go at our pretty pleat-detail washbag on page 71, or pack up a luxury picnic with Jessica Entwistle’s floral picnic set on page 32 – we’re in love with the patchwork-detail quilted rug! Don’t forget to share all your sewing projects with us on Instagram @simplysewingmag.…

ESTUARY SKIRT, SEW LIBERATED Channel your inner Sewing Bee and be bold with buttons! If you’re not feeling up to that many buttonholes, you can sew a faux placket – we won’t tell! The lovely Estuary Skirt is definitely a summer staple piece. It features large patch or in-seam pockets, an elasticated back and can be made to any length you like. Available in sizes 0–30, sewliberated.com. S8927 TOP & SKIRT, MIMI G STYLE We're sticking with a button-front, but this time it’s off centre for an added feature. This is a slim-fit design for a flattering and slightly more formal look. Use your favourite fabric and sew a matching tie-front top for a co-ord set to impress. Available in UK sizes 4–18, sewdirect.com. DONOVAN SKIRT, HELEN’S CLOSET PATTERNS This…

HOW TO SEW SUSTAINABLY Wendy Ward (£12.99, CICO Books) Whether you have a whole piece of cloth or ‘overlocker spaghetti’ scrap left, Wendy Ward will find an imaginative use for it to save anything going to waste. In her new book, you’ll find 20 completely customisable projects to recycle, reuse and remake clothes and homewares. There’s also comprehensive advice on techniques and fabric choices inside. SEWING FOR THE SOUL Jules Fallon (£19.99, David & Charles Ltd) This book combines two of our loves – sewing and food! For each season, there’s a slow sew, a quick fix, and a reinvention project. As well as 10 full-size patterns for relaxed garments, including a summer dress, palazzo pants, a linen T-shirt and pyjama trousers, you’ll find recipes for baking cakes and preparing…

Since entrepreneurial designer Lisa Comfort launched her business, Sew Over It (sewoverit.com), a decade ago, much has happened. From leaving her day job to open two shops to the launch of a pattern range with over 100 designs, Lisa has weathered multiple storms, including the shift to digital commerce and the impact of Covid-19. She tells us what life’s been like this past year, and why necessity really is the mother of invention. As the pandemic hit, Lisa moved the Sew Over It operation online while she spent the first lockdown at her parents’ home. “My parents became unpaid photographers and fabric packers!” Lisa remembers. Meanwhile Chief Operating Officer Rosie moved the office printer to her flat and printed the patterns. Both made daily trips to the post office to…

PSST: Turn the page for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your Azara Skirt with us using #simplysewingmag. Looking for a stylish skirt to fit and flatter? The Azara Skirt from Deer and Doe is just what your wardrobe’s been waiting for! This A-line midi-length skirt can be easily dressed up or down – choose summer pumps or espadrilles with a T-shirt tucked in for a summer picnic, or style it with a blouse and heels for a special event. Make it in linen or chambray for the warmer months, and a cosy wool for the winter. YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1.85mx152cm (2ydx60in) / 2.6mx115cm (2¾ydx45in) ■ Lining fabric: 1.6mx152cm (1¾ydx60in) / 2.1mx115cm (2¼ydx45in) ■ Twill tape, 2.5cm wide: Size 6–18: 92cm (1yd) Size 20–24: 1.4m (1½yd) ■ Version…

Friday Pattern Company has created another iconic dress in the Davenport. This seasonless, feminine design has lots of stand-out features, including a gathered neckline, a waist tie, roomy pockets, a ruffle hem and shoulder flutter detail. Check out Friday Pattern Company’s blog (fridaypatterncompany.com) for tips on customising your Davenport by omitting the sleeves or making it with a full-length skirt. You’ll also find a handy sew-along video on YouTube to help with construction. Available in sizes XS–7X.…

Eternally classic and timeless, French style has long been admired and celebrated – and it’s not hard to see why. From the iconic fashion houses of Chanel and Dior, to the incredible street style that fills our Instagram feed, France just seems to have ‘it’. Now more than ever, French ‘cool girl’ style is having a moment, with contemporary fashion brands like Sézane and Maje becoming the go-to for UK shoppers desperate to nail that effortless, Parisian vibe. But it’s not just on the high street where this modern French style revolution is taking place. A growing number of incredible French pattern companies are now offering sewists contemporary designs that celebrate Gallic style in a fresh and accessible way, while innovative French fabric houses are creating beautiful prints to complement…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Viscose fabric: 2mx140cm (2½ydx55in) or 3mx110cm (3½ydx43in) ■ Iron-on interfacing (depending on patten requirements) ■ Hook and eye: x 1 ■ Tailor’s chalk or erasable fabric pen ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 2cm (5/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ We used McCall’s M7899 pattern (View A). ■ If you are 5ft2in or shorter (156cm or less), the dress will likely measure around 56in (142cm) in length. If you are 5ft3in–5ft8in (160cm–173cm), the dress will likely measure around 58in (147cm) in length. ■ We cut a size 8 for a 5ft7in model so adjust your length measurements accordingly. FABRICS USED ■ Brick Blue Viscose from Mind the Maker, mindthemaker.com. MAXI DRESS HACK This pattern hack will show you how to turn…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Canvas fabric for main outer: 50x40cm (20x16in) ■ Patterned quilting cotton for contrast pleat, zip tabs and lining: 50x40cm (20x16in) ■ Zip: 20cm (8in) ■ Set square (see notes) ■ Zip foot for your sewing machine ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm (3/8in) unless otherwise stated. ■ Fabric measurements are HxW ■ If you don’t have a set square you can use a piece of card cut into a right angle. FABRICS USED: ■ Patterned fabric is: Paper Birds in Light Pink from the Emi and the Bird collection for Dashwood Studio. Available from The Fabric Fox, thefabricfox.co.uk. PREPARING THE FRONT PANEL Step one Start by making the front panel of the bag. As this panel will be trimmed…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Plain linen or cotton fabric: 26x26cm (11x11in) ■ Felt in light, neutral colour: 20x20cm (8x8in) ■ Embroidery hoop: 15cm (6in) ■ Stranded embroidery cotton in rainbow colours: approximately 150cm (60in) of each ■ Heat erasable pen ■ Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED ■ DMC stranded cotton in 606, 741, 307, 470, 3846, 32, 333. All from woolwarehouse.co.uk ■ Calico fabric (medium weight) from fyviestarcrafts.co.uk NOTES ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates CUTTING OUT Step one Lay out your felt. Take the inner ring only from your embroidery hoop and lay it on top of the felt, then draw around the outside of the ring. Step two Cut out your piece of felt and set it aside for now. This will be the backing for your finished…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen fabric: 8.5x14cm (33/8x5½in) ■ Eyelet: 1cm (3/8in) ■ Clear vinyl: 8.5x11cm (33/8x43/›in) ■ Patterned fabric: 6x55cm (23/8x215/8in) ■ Cotton wadding: 8.5x14cm (33/8x5½in) ■ Ribbon: 24cm (9½in) ■ Stranded cotton in periwinkle ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit ERMINE STITCH Step one Make a vertical straight stitch. Come up on the left side a little lower than the top of the first stitch. Go back down on the right side near the bottom of the first stitch.01 Step two Come up on the left side near the bottom of the first stitch. Go back down on the right side a little lower than the top of the first stitch. The tops of the angled stitches should be farther from the centre line than the bottoms.…

I made this rococo-inspired gown as part of my project to make a costume for each of the 44 Queens of England. I am a lover of history and my favourite time period to work with is the 16th century. I am passionate about telling the stories of the queens as well as the queen consorts – in history, women are often overshadowed by their male counterparts. This dress is probably the most striking of the collection and it was made to represent Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Queen of England and spouse of George III. The dress took just under a week to complete and I drafted the pattern myself. It was based on pictures of Queen Charlotte and other portraits from the late 18th century. The dress is made from…

SEW OVER IT Our cover star this issue is the lovely Penny Dress from Sew Over It. We can’t wait to sew this up for the summer. There are some exciting changes going on behind the scenes at SOI HQ – we chat to Lisa about what to expect on page 24! JULIET UZOR Sewing Bee star and queen of a statement sleeve, Juliet Uzor, has designed a gorgeous patternless duster for us this issue. Find it on page 52, and don’t miss out on the chance to win a place on Juliet’s online dressmaking course on page 16! DEER AND DOE French indie pattern company Deer and Doe was founded in 2012 by Éléonore. Today, she is joined by her team, Camille and Sylvie, and the passionate trio work…

I have gone a little bit rogue this month. I asked you all for your favourite skirt makes and three particular designs kept cropping up, so I thought why not feature those! I hope you find it inspiring. In no particular order (I just love it when they say that on the dancing shows)… THE DESDEMONA FROM JULES FALLON, SEWMESOMETHING.CO.UK This is a classic dirndl skirt and, like all of Jules’ designs, is named after female characters from Shakespeare’s plays, which is quite apt as her studios are based in Stratford Upon Avon. The pattern includes two versions, one plain fronted and the other with a button wrap. It is a lovely flattering length and easy to make with either patch or in-seam pockets and the choice of…

Ava Skirt This is super simple to sew so it is the perfect first project. But just because it is a beginner pattern doesn’t mean it doesn’t have a strong place in my wardrobe. I have four Ava skirts currently and wear them all the time – it is such a versatile staple. Molly Top This was part of my first Capsule Wardrobe e-book: City Break. It’s a really simple jersey top – great for your first stretchy fabric pattern. It is so wearable – I have made it in plain fabrics and my much-loved blue and white stripes for that French vibe! Bilberry T-shirt This is a great classic short sleeve T-shirt designed for everyday. It’s also one of the patterns we sew on our Stitch School sewing classes…

1 WHAT IS BIAS TAPE? Several seam-finishing techniques make use of bias tape (also known as bias binding). Traditionally, the tape is made from strips of woven fabric, cut on the bias – hence the name. Being cut on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain of the fabric) means that the fibres of the strip are slightly stretchy, making it much easier to fit them around the curves of your project. 2 MAKING YOUR OWN While bias tape can be bought from most fabric retailers and haberdashers in a variety of colours and finishes, it’s just as easy to make your own at home – plus, by doing this you can match your tape to your fabric exactly for a perfect finish. Simply cut and stitch together…

I started sewing two years ago and I can’t believe how much it’s changed my life. After yearning to learn how to sew a handmade wardrobe, I finally took the plunge two years ago and one year later launched my brand, Tammy Handmade. I love to create effortlessly stylish, wearable patterns that feel modern. I can’t believe how much sewing has changed my life in such a short space of time. I am a British Indian woman and growing up I have always been surrounded by beautiful Indian occasion-wear outfits. Dressing up for family parties and weddings was always so much fun; we got to wear our best dresses which were full of colour, embellishments and glamorous fabric. This was my first glimpse into the sewing world as my grandmother…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Medium-weight woven fabric with minimal drape: 2mx59in (2¼ydx140cm) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. FABRIC USED ■ Woven jacquard in Jungle Litchee by Atelier Brunette x Studio Walkie Talkie, atelierbrunette.com TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Step one Measure from your shoulder to calf to determine the final length you would like your duster to be. This is the length (A). Step two Measure the length from your nape to shoulder and add 18cm (7in). This is the width (B). CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric, cut: Front: two rectangular pieces using measurements AxB Back: one rectangular piece folded lengthwise using measurements AxB-10cm (4in)01 Centre Front Band: 12.5cm (5in) wide. Ax2+20cm (8in) length Sleeve Cuffs: 12.5cm (5in) wide…

Elodie Blueberry @elodieblueberry Elodie regularly inspires her dedicated following of 10k+ Instagram followers with fashionable sewing projects that are size-inclusive, with a bit of body positivity thrown in. Made by Robi @made.by.robi Roberta’s feed is a dreamy mix of sewing inspiration using beautiful African fabrics. We want to wear everything she makes, and we have a feeling you’ll want to, too! Nadou @nadou_creation_71 Expect image after image of wearable, super-chic and feminine French sewing projects you’ll want to get stuck into straight away on Nadou’s gorgeous account. Le French Closet @lefrenchcloset If you’re a fan of minimalist style, Emmanuelle and her focus on sustainable sewing is a must-follow. We love her choice of earthy tones and styled photographs.…

Treat a little one to a handmade gift they’ll love with the Dress-Up Kitty from Lucy Ward. This adorable fancy feline will be a playtime favourite with a range of pretty outfits to dress her up in. Not only will this cute kitten put a smile on faces, but sewing miniature dresses for her is a great way of using up some of your favourite fabric scraps that are too small for anything else. Or even better, you could sew matching dresses for her and her new owner! Share your finished toy with us using #simplysewingmag.…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Pair of full-length jeans ■ Denim needle (size 90) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ You may need extra fabric for the pinafore straps. In this project, you will learn how to turn a pair of corduroy jeans into a simple pinafore dress by opening up the inside leg seams and using leg fabric for the pinafore front. A shorter skirt will leave you with more material to play with for the top half, but a slightly longer version can make for a more sophisticated look. DECONSTRUCTING THE JEANS Step one Unpick the inside leg seams of the jeans. Step two Decide how long you want your skirt to be, add 3cm (1¼in) for the hem, then trim the jeans legs to this…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Woven cotton, outer: 75cmx115cm (30x45in) ■ Cotton canvas, lining: 75cmx115cm (30x45in) ■ Bias binding (shop bought or homemade): 1.6m (1¾yd) ■ Velcro: 6cm (23/8in) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 6mm (¼in) unless otherwise stated. ■ You can use snaps instead of Velcro if preferred. ■ We made our binding from scraps of our lining fabric. CUTTING OUT Step one From the woven cotton cut: Front Outer: 37x36cm (145/8x141/8in) Back Outer: 47x36cm (18½x141/8in) Step two From the cotton canvas cut: Front Lining: 37x36cm (145/8x141/8in) Back Lining: 47x36cm (18½x141/8in)01 MAKING THE FOLDER Step one Curve and cut two corners along one short edge of the Back Outer and Back Lining pieces. A small cup is ideal for this.02 Step two Pin…

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