Indholdsfortegnelse for Volume 124 - 2024 i Vacations & Travel

Travel has always been about more than just getting away. It’s about finding pieces of yourself in unexpected places, creating memories that make you smile years later, and feeling that rush of connection – to the world, to others and to something larger. But let’s not pretend all is rosy on this planet; we’re dealing with climate change, war, inequality and fractured communities, and it can all feel a bit overwhelming. But we’re not powerless – as travellers, our choices hold power. Every decision we make – where we stay, what we support, how we transport – can make a huge difference to people, the planet and its beautiful creatures. When we choose ethical travel operators, our money helps create positive change, whether going directly into conservation projects or the…

1 PLANET Walk with the elephants Nestled in the heart of Kimana Sanctuary, a haven for a prolific population of elephants, Angama Amboseli stands as a jewel in Kenya’s first community-owned wildlife conservancy. The intimate lodge is the perfect bookend stay to an unforgettable East African safari, offering 10 guest suites backdropped by the dazzling Mount Kilimanjaro. Each suite features African design elements, including concrete mixed with elephant dung for the exterior, that seamlessly merge with the unique surrounding landscape. Bonus: your stay helps to support both the local community and conservation projects. angama.com 2 ROMANCE Find your bliss Few cities in the world can rival the romance of Udaipur, dubbed the ‘Venice of the East’, in the Indian state of Rajasthan. Nestled along the shimmering shores of Lake Pichola…

Retired polo pony Morocco isn’t having a bar of me. Polite but unenthusiastic when I first approach her, the little bay mare soon flattens her ears, swings her curvaceous rump and makes a hasty retreat, giving me a very clear signal: “Not today, lady!” I’m participating in an equine wellness session during a weekend retreat at Sugar Beach Ranch, a glorious beachfront property at South Ballina in the Northern Rivers region of NSW. Morocco is one of three ‘therapy horses’ we’re interacting with, and the most complex of the personalities on show. But a few minutes later, when choosing a horse to lead on the beach, I request Morocco, saying I want a challenge and don’t want to feel defeated by her rejection. “Do you find yourself doing that in…

Standing on the lip of the Incan Moray archaeological site, it isn’t difficult to imagine the source of superstar chef Virgilio Martinez’s inspiration. This 30-metre-deep pit, set high in the Andes near Cusco, is the subject of some conjecture among archaeologists. With no written records from the Incas, the civilisation responsible for Moray’s creation, no one can say for sure what this series of concentric terraces was really used for. The most common theory, however, is that it was a site for agricultural experimentation and cultivation. These terraces were used to plant crops at different altitudes and different temperatures, to see what would grow best, and where. And that is clearly Martinez’s inspiration, because Peru’s most famous chef has positioned his restaurant, Mil, just above the Moray archaeological site, and…

Immersed in the gravelly entangled beauty of New Zealand’s braided Waitaki River, a thought struck me: Practically anyone could do this epic Alps 2 Ocean ride through some of the South Island’s most remote and remarkable geological landscapes. Later, while soaking in a steamy tub elevated over glacial waters with a craft beer in hand, I mulled over the astonishing places I’ve got to on two wheels – while being kinder to the environment and good to myself. And now with pedal-assist e-bikes, anyone with a reasonable amount of fitness can get there too. E-bike trips were in the top five hot trends of 2024, according to the Adventure Travel Trade Association’s (ATTA) Industry Snapshot Report. ‘Pedal assist’ is exactly that; not a case of just pulling a throttle and…

“Is your mother a woman?” It’s the evening briefing aboard the Antarctic expedition ship Heritage Adventurer, and team leader Cheli Larsen sets a cheeky tone. When asked if we’ll experience high seas on our voyage, her message is: don’t expect a millpond and hope it’s not the Drake Passage on a bad day. It’s the Southern Ocean, and it’s known to lose its temper. Larsen is a towering presence with a quick wit and commanding knowledge of our destinations, and you quickly learn not to ask silly questions. Night one of a 12-day expedition and the New Zealand port of Bluff is at our stern as the bow slays a four-metre swell that is bossy enough to remind us we’re taking on the Southern Ocean but not tough enough to…

Mother Nature’s gifts Unwind to the soothing soundtrack of humming cicadas while indulging in an aromatic massage that harnesses the therapeutic properties of local lavender oil. Or perhaps opt for an antioxidant-rich facial infused with wine from the Domaine’s vineyards. Overlooking the lavender-laden fields of Luberon in Southern France, Coquillade Provence has introduced a bounty of local viticulture and lavender-inspired treatments to their spa menu. A collaboration between the Domaine’s female winemaker and female spa director, the new treatments are rooted in sustainability, biodynamic principles and a deep connection to the French countryside. coquillade.fr/en Certified calm Industry organisation Wellness in Travel & Tourism has announced a new certification for hotels that set rigorous standards when it comes to their health and spa offerings. Aiming to become a wellness tourism equivalent…

Inner West side story With 18 independent microbreweries, 15 restaurants and food trucks, and more than 60 events each week, Sydney’s Inner West has become the Craft Capital of Australia – and you can sample it all on the Inner West Ale Trail. Spanning the fun locales of Enmore, Marrickville, Newtown, Rozelle, St Peters and Camperdown, the trail offers locals and visitors more than 320 unique craft beers, and more than 100 wines, spirits, ciders and seltzers for sipping. The Ale Trail is hosting a series of events, including live music, comedy, Queers & Beers nights, pool competitions, ’80s-music bingo and more. innerwestaletrail.com On the rails Great Journeys New Zealand’s award-winning Scenic Plus dining experience is now available on the Northern Explorer scenic train between Auckland and Wellington. Launched in…

Western Australia offers travellers a unique brand of barefoot luxury, with outback experiences set against awe-inspiring ancient wilderness. Dreamlike and otherworldly, the Kimberley has always been a bucket list destination. Now, The Ritz-Carlton, Perth is taking guests on small-group culinary tours into the region, allowing guests to form a connection with the state’s rich heritage. Perched on Elizabeth Quay, the hotel is the perfect holiday base. FIRST TASTE Led by Chef de Cuisine Brian Cole of Hearth Restaurant, and Fervor’s Executive Chef Paul ‘Yoda’ Iskov, our exclusive degustation dinner showcases seasonal native ingredients only found in Western Australia. Charred Fremantle octopus accompanied by native juniper, south-west marron, cavolo nero cream and finger lime hits the table first. Five-spice Linley Valley pork sweetened with rhubarb and emu plum arrive next, while…

Arabian nights are all the more magical when you’re floating in lucent waters looking up at the desert sky’s starry tapestry. Cradled between two precipitous sandstone towers, the infinity rock pool at Banyan Tree AlUla is its own spectacle to behold. Breathtaking vistas of Saudi Arabia’s Ashar Valley, from sweeping sands to wind-carved rock formations, ensure a dip in this five-star pool is nothing short of spellbinding. banyantree.com Four other hotel pools with mesmerising views Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti It’s a pool party in Tanzania as a family of elephants splash in the watering hole. fourseasons.com Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge Backdropped by the Nepalese Himalayas, this pool is the pinnacle of peace. tigermountainpokhara.com Rabot Hotel Bordered by lush cacao rainforest and St Lucia’s Piton peaks, this scenic swim spot…

Mabuhay, Brisbane! Fasten your seatbelts, Qantas customers can now fly direct from Brisbane to the Philippines with flights operating four times per week to the cosmopolitan capital of Manila. The Flying Kangaroo’s new route has opened a convenient gateway to the emerging Asian tourist destination. Connections in Auckland and Christchurch are also available for Kiwi travellers. qantas.com Making a comeback South Australian travellers, rejoice! Premium Arabian airline Emirates has finally relaunched its daily service between Adelaide and Dubai. With projections to fly more than 220,400 passengers between the two destinations annually, the route is anticipated to boost the local economy and provide a vital link to more than 140 global destinations. Emirates now operates 70 weekly services from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide. emirates.com AirTags take flight The new…

Standing on the elevated platform, I look down into an enclosure where a group of young chimpanzees are playing. They chase one another, swinging from rope to rope, rolling around on the ground, and play fighting. One chimpanzee, dragging a branch behind him, investigates the perimeter fence. Two others walk hand in hand, periodically turning to one another and embracing. Yet another plays with an empty container in a shallow pond, filling and emptying it and trying to float it on the surface of the water. These are all behaviours that play a crucial role in young chimpanzee development, helping them to create social bonds and learn essential survival skills. And, without any parents to show them how it’s done, these chimps are having to learn it all by themselves.…

When my wife Kate was dying from breast cancer we would sometimes discuss what the future would look like for our three young sons. As you can imagine, these were very sad and difficult conversations. During one of them Kate said something that had a profound effect on me. “I’m glad it’s me dying and not you. Boys need their dad,” she said, and in that moment I knew my role as a father would take precedence over everything else. To do otherwise would be to dishonour the trust she gifted me. That was 14 years ago. The boys were all still in school then but now they’re young men. Their mum would be proud of them, albeit a little disappointed over their fondness for tattoos. I’ve made many…

I’ve never felt so in touch with my inner canned sardine. Thundering down a mountainous highway on a local Albanian bus, we’re oily, odorous and packed so tight we’re sharing outer thigh sweat. One of my friends is squatting on the floor, while another is precariously perched on a fold-out aisle stool for the near three-hour journey. And since bus schedules exist only by word of mouth (note that our Albanian tongue is lacking), the hand-scribbled sign on the vehicle’s front window is all we have to trust that we are indeed en route to Berat, Albania’s UNESCO-listed ‘city of a thousand windows’. Sure, Albania’s transport network is no seamless Swiss railway, but the tiny Balkan country feels authentic in a way that many European destinations no longer do. And…

There’s a ramshackle zipline from the top of MS World Discoverer that sees you summersault into the opaline waters of Roderick Bay to disembark. The local kids do it with ease, performing trick after trick and hooting with laughter as they fly down the rusty trapeze. World Discoverer is a permanent fixture in this hamlet – the half-sunken ocean liner has been lying, half-submerged and tipped to one side, since 2000 when it fatefully hit an uncharted reef. In the 25 years since, nature has reclaimed it – fish swim through its port holes, trees sprout from its upper deck, barnacles cling to the hull. It’s at once eerie and impressive, stuck in a time limbo in this astonishingly beautiful pocket of the Solomons, the vast South Pacific swallowing it…

Day 1 11am Embark on brunch at Lēoht in Battery Point, where the rulebook on morning food has been rewritten. Lap up a nutritious dish such as beef broth with udon and seaweed and wash it down with superb coffee . 1pm Prepare for a glamorous evening with a Hollywood Facial at Sanctum Medical Aesthetics. You’ll have radiant skin for weeks to come. 3pm Check in to The Tasman, a Luxury Collection Hotel. Anchored on the waterfront and centrally located, this converted hospital showcases three different eras of design. Opt for a room in the historic building where Georgian details have been lovingly restored. Simply stunning. 5.30pm With your new glowing complexion, swan into Mary Mary for a pre-dinner cocktail. Housed within The Tasman, Mary Mary is an intimate space…

The bare-chested, artistically tattooed warrior moves ominously closer. He has an U’u (club) clenched in his hand and the decorative leaves around his feet swish with each foreboding step. Fortunately, he, along with the other warriors and the less fearsome ladies with grass skirts and beautiful headdresses, are showing us their culture at a Marquesan wedding in Hiva Oa, put on especially for two lovebirds from our ship. It is quite surreal to even be in the Marquesas, known to locals as Te Fenua Enata – The Land of Men. We were not meant to be sailing to the most remote island archipelago in the world, yet here we are. A moody cyclone blew our intended French Polynesian cruise out the porthole, and the captain of the Star Breeze looked…

Desert oasis Located just 55 minutes from Dubai International Airport, Sofitel Al Hamra Beach Resort is positioned in the historic district of Ras Al Khaimah, nestled between the serene Arabian Gulf and the majestic Hajar Mountains. The 292 rooms and suites were designed by award-winning interior design studio Kristina Zanic Consultants and deliver a French-style aesthetic in a palette of Mediterranean colours. Guests can dine at one of six bars and restaurants or take a dip in the adults-only pool and jacuzzi, while families can visit the children’s pool, Aqua Splash zone or spend time in the kids’ club. Looking for a little spa time? Sofitel Al Hamra Beach Resort is the first Sofitel in the United Arab Emirates to offer a Sofitel Spa with Clarins. sofitel.accor.com Castaway dreams Set…

The gateway to Komodo National Park, AYANA Komodo Waecicu Beach serves as the perfect base from which to explore Indonesia’s westernmost islands, renowned for their breathtaking beauty and rich biodiversity. Perched on a cliff overlooking the mesmerising blue waters of the Flores Sea, the resort is just a short one-hour flight from Bali or a direct flight from Kuala Lumpur. From the moment you step into the distinctive rooftop lobby, the seamless harmony of contemporary design and natural surroundings promises a journey filled with relaxation and adventure. Our stay in an ocean-view suite elevated the experience to sheer perfection. Each suite is spacious and tastefully furnished, blending modern elegance with the natural beauty outside. The pièce de résistance? Sweeping views of the sea, where every evening the setting sun paints…

TRAVEL FACTS Experience all this and more on Bench Africa’s ‘Explore Kenya – Escorted Ladies Tour’. Departing 3 June and 13 November 2025, from $9,990. benchafrica.com…

What defines a great road? Most travellers think of the scenery, of gentle bends framed by soaring forests, or a smooth highway paralleling a beach at sunset. Speeding my BMW motorcycle through the mountains of northern Thailand, I’m savouring a further dimension: the grain and grip of the surface, the gentle banking of the bends, the flow of the corners that are weaving the fabric of this journey. Motorcycling is a unique way to travel. Throughout eight days of riding in Thailand I was completely engaged with the environment: the scents of cooking in villages or of fields freshly mown, the warming of the sun on my thighs as clouds pass by, and a special camaraderie among my fellow two-wheeled travellers. Forgive me if this sounds evangelical, but motorcycling engenders…

The glassy sea slides off The Monarch’s bow as we glide through Otago Harbour, a snaking sparkle framed by rolling hills, misty beaches, cycle paths and the Ōtepoti Dunedin skyline. A handful of passengers relax on the deck as the Otago Peninsula’s living puzzle of wildlife and heritage is expertly decoded by our skipper Buddy Kyle’s commentary. Crowned by Aotearoa New Zealand’s second-oldest lighthouse, Taiaroa Head stands tall at the sea mouth, the harbour’s sentry since Māori peoples first arrived in 1100AD. Later, they built their defensive settlement here, the Pukekura Pā, with more military fortifications following throughout modern history. As we cruise around the headland into the open sea, the sky is alive with albatrosses. I’m swaying with the ocean’s motion when suddenly a pair of torpedoes blast out…

A shadow flickers at the edge of my vision as leaves skitter across the cobblestones beneath my feet. The air hums with an undefinable energy that clings like static to my skin, and I shiver involuntarily. Cursing my imagination, I brush it off as the crisp New England breeze. Or is it something more? Inhaling deeply, the briny scent of the Atlantic mingles with the aroma of buttery pastries, candle wax, and something darker – like damp earth and old books. But the accompanying soundtrack is of laughter and the soft hiss of steam from an espresso coffee machine. My first impression of Salem is a polite refusal to fit neatly into expectations. Sure, there’s history, and it’s bursting with postcard charm, but there’s something else here, something that feels…

Snow season in Lucerne is enough to melt any heart like fondue. Twinkling timber houses beckon with the spiced citrus scent of mulled wine, families giggle while ice skating to traditional music, and the soaring Pilatus peak looks down upon the snow globe of a scene from 2,128 metres high. Lucerne is snuggled on the banks of Lake Lucerne, a striking sapphire basin cradled by the snow-sprinkled summits of Central Switzerland. Not only is the city blessed with unreasonably good looks, but it’s also packed with personality – especially come wintertime. From sky-high sledding on nearby Mount Pilatus to the dazzling street parades of the carnival festival, Lucerne thrills with its host of winter delights. During Advent each year, the Swiss city transforms into a whirlwind of celebrations. Wander over…

When we learnt about Egypt in primary school, they didn’t mention the size of things. Yet an Egyptian holiday could easily pose more questions than it answers. It’ll start with the ‘whens’ and ‘whos’ and ‘whys’. Tour guides talk dates and details whilst your brain has small explosions as you attempt to process what you’re looking at. It’s the scale of everything, the sheer size (which I don’t recall from my primary school learning) that is truly mind-blowing. Laid out in front of you over 12 magical days is a history like no other. I mean, I’ve been around, but I don’t think I’ve been anywhere that’s fired the imagination quite like Egypt. It’s hard to concentrate on what you’re hearing because you’re so damn busy visualising what it must…

Oceania on the horizon Watch Lisbon twinkle to life at sundown or discover the colonial architecture of Mozambique’s charismatic capital. Oceania Cruises has released a host of exciting new voyages for 2026 onboard its boutique ships Nautica, Regatta and Sirena. Carrying just 670 guests each, the vessels will embark upon 60 diverse itineraries including 17 Grand Voyages from Asia, Africa and the Caribbean to the Mediterranean. Guests can revel in the charms of iconic cities such as Rome and Cape Town, or discover lesser known destinations such as Tortola, a yachting paradise in the British Virgin Islands, or Karlskrona, a Swedish city spread over 30 islands. oceaniacruises.com Arabian adventures Culturally curious travellers, this is for you. Experience the world’s longest overwater zipline in Oman, visit a traditional Arabian bazaar in…

You’d be forgiven for thinking you have stumbled upon a secret society from the roaring ’20s when checking into Hotel Morris Sydney. A clink of a wine glass here, a touch of ruby velvet there, and the glint of a waterfall chandelier bouncing light off moody-toned tiles. Not to mention the steel-framed arched windows. Needless to say, the scene is enough to send any sartorial traveller into a swoon. Set within the bustling heart of Haymarket, the boutique 82-suite hotel offers a tranquil and restorative refuge from the surrounding city. It’s also as rich in personality as it is in style. Housed within an Italian renaissance building dating back to 1929, the heritage-listed address was reborn in 2023 as Hotel Morris under the expert eye of designer Tom Mark Henry.…