Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2020 i Vogue Australia

The September cover looks and feels like no other. That is because in such hard times we wanted to offer you hope. In April, led by Anna Wintour, all the editors of Vogue met virtually to discuss how we might work together to offer our readers a message of optimism. Therefore, hope is the word that appears on each of Vogue’s 26 September issues published around the world in 2020. For the masthead of our websites, the word Vogue has been replaced by Hope, with the name Vogue designed to sit in the letter ‘o’ of that word. For Vogue Australia, looking to illustrate this word led us to the work of Betty Muffler. So for the first time in our 60-year history, we are publishing fine art on our…

ON THE UP Beyond being a buzzword, upcycling is becoming part of the day-to-day of designers who don’t let cast-off materials limit imagination. Like KitX’s clothing, Prada’s Re-Nylon collection and Gucci’s Off The Grid bags reform regenerated nylon out of marine litter from the oceans, while young talents Jordan Gogos and Roylance retrain fabrics, used in existing objects, into joyful, fun-for-the-sake-of-it, exuberant shapes. HANDMADE TALE A time of physical disconnect means handmade pieces that hew to the effects of the human touch hold added appeal. Both Lyn-Al Young’s individually handpainted silk, which holds the stories of her ancestors, and the precise, carefully crafted lines of Van Cleef & Arpels long-standing Alhambra collection, have a warmth no machine could ever replicate. TOP STITCHES Tiwi designer Clair Helen hand-embroiders and sews her…

Forever treasures don’t need to be soberly formal. A little flourish – like Chanel’s tidy diamond-encrusted bow – gives life to precious stones. The jewellery pieces that will go the distance won’t compete, but accent an outfit, in the way that a well-chosen bag is a complementary final touch.…

1. “In fashion, I always admired how Karl Lagerfeld moved. In so many ways, he was so ahead of his time. Also, Rei Kawakubo. I learned that business and creativity go hand in hand without compromising.” 2. “I like Picasso’s work, because he was so free. When he’d gone through certain movements, he’d quickly move on to the next movement instead of just sticking to one thing and doing it over and over again. That fluidity I find very attractive in an artist.” 3. “David Bowie is another artist where you see the fluidness. He experienced something, [then] he reflected it right away into the music and his visuals.”…

1. DIOR TALKS, THE FEMALE GAZE: MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI “I’ve learnt so much recording this podcast series on the female gaze for Dior – I’ve had the privilege of speaking to so many incredible women photographers about their careers and their personal journeys and about the power of photographs in the world. Photography affects women in a particular way – and Maria Grazia Chiuri understands this very well. Many people might not know that in 2016, when she was appointed creative director at Dior, she announced she would only be working with women photographers. That is major. This whole series is really down to her acuity – this conversation with her kicks off this series on the female gaze and her vision as a feminist. I love it too because…

“As big as this tragedy is, it has brought people’s attention to Lebanon” IN 2010, VOGUE ’S own Christine Centenera photographed a piece from my graduate collection at Australian Fashion Week in 2008, after I had graduated from TAFE in Sydney. It was a pivotal point in the brand’s presence within the fashion sphere; at such an early stage people became aware of my label and everything snowballed from there. Ten years on, being part of this issue feels like a chance to reflect on history and consider what the future holds as the events of this year will forever mark the beginning of a new age. Growing up in Sydney to Lebanese migrant parents meant my connections to Lebanon and its traditions have always been close. The land, the…

NOTHING ABOUT MY initial interview with Whitney Wolfe Herd went to plan. In fact, it was a downright disaster. A slight reshuffle of scheduling from her end, combined with NBN works and childcare issues the morning of our chat meant my interview from home descended into a cringe-worthy scene reminiscent of The Letdown. After leaving one of the most influential women in tech stuck in the Zoom waiting room for 10 minutes because of connection issues (the irony not being lost on me), my toddler hijacked the interview midway through after escaping the moat of toys I’d plonked him in down the hall. With laser-like focus he tracked me down to where I was huddled in the only reception-friendly corner of my house and exacted revenge by unleashing bursts of…

HEAVILY SALTED Against the backdrop of Bondi Icebergs Club’s famous saltwater pool, Adut Akech Bior rejoices in the promise of Australia’s golden season. Keep cool by the pool with Clarins Re-Fresh Hydrating Beauty Mist, $29. NEW HORIZONS Certain fragrance ingredients don’t fare well when exposed to the sun’s rays. Adut keeps her Valentino Donna Born In Roma EDP, 50ml for $155, protected beneath a skin-tight two-piece. BRIM WITH JOY The best SPFs to invest in? A wide-brimmed hat and a high-protection stick that’s easy to carry – like Hunter Lab’s SPF50+ Facial Sunscreen, $48. ON THE ROCKS No cream in the world will give you a derrière like Adut’s – that’s down to genes, youth and an active lifestyle – but La Mer’s The Renewal Body Oil Balm, $295, will…

WHAT TRULY MAKES a beauty product iconic? Is it the ability to withstand all manner of beauty trends and still hold relevance? Is it being loved and recommended by beauty editors and influencers, or having a permanent place in the beauty cabinets of millions of loyal fans? In an industry that prides itself on innovation, true icons are few and far between. Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair is one of those few. Launched in 1982, Advanced Night Repair is the reason your beauty cabinet is stocked with night serums. Affectionately dubbed ‘the little brown bottle’, researchers behind the formula identified that our skin regenerates overnight, and were the first to supercharge this process with what we slather on in the evening. Love hyaluronic acid for its juicy hydrating properties? You…

VOGUE AUSTRALIA in collaboration with the National Gallery of Australia For artist Betty Muffler, her paintings are more than just works of art, they are compelling depictions of Country, a Country that needs healing. Muffler is a Ngangkaṟi , an Indigenous Australian traditional healer with a potent gift who can heal through the power of her spirit and touch. And now, after Australia’s worst fire season on record followed by the global Covid-19 pandemic and racial divisions at both a global and local level, Ngangkaṟi are more vital than ever to heal the hearts and spirits of their people and community. Ngangkaṟi are traditional healers from the Ngaanyatjarra, Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara Lands in the remote western desert of Central Australia who have practised their gift from time immemorial. Using their…

KELLI COLE AND AIDAN HARTSHORN For this issue, Vogue asked Warumungu/Luritja woman Kelli Cole, and Walgalu man of the Gurmal Nation, Aidan Hartshorn – both curators of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art at the National Gallery of Australia – to explore the power of traditional healer Betty Muffler’s cover art in ‘Magic touch’, page 100, and ‘High hopes’, on page 162. “Though her story is threaded with obstacles, Betty is able to continue with her ability as a Ngangkari and find the strength to heal others from their illnesses,” they explain. “Betty’s story not only originates from a place of hope, but reminds us that in current times hope is all we have, and at times, is all we need.” TRENT DALTON “Words were the best thing we humans…

THE ADAGE OF scribes – ‘write what you know’ – didn’t have the same mass application in fashion for a long time. In its pursuit of the urbane, smatterings of esoteric references from centuries long gone and cultures long lost became the studied pursuit of the creative director. Now a new guard of designers is flipping the system. These three emerging talents look to their own stories, interrogating personal histories and re-proposing traditional dress, leading it away from a stasis bound by tradition and into new territory with an enlivened modern design vocabulary. With it, they’re teaching a lesson: that the most genuine creative expression comes from within. THEBE MAGUGU ‘The Big Hole’ is a former 19th -century diamond mine in Kimberley, central South Africa, that sits incongruously on designer…

1. “I love the mid-century modern wave, especially its French designers and architects such as Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand, Pierre Jeanneret, and Jean Prouvé, who did such amazing things. I have many books and my perfect Sunday consists of wandering through all of these.” 2. “I have a thing with scents; I am sure I could blindly point out everyone I have ever met simply by smelling their perfume. My personal favourite is Sunny Side Up by Juliette Has a Gun.” 3. “I have always admired the style of Georgia O’Keeffe. The simply cut pieces with signature black and white details make my heart skip many beats. Another style I have admired since being a young girl is that of nuns – again those black and white details, the covered…

“It was his time and his generosity of spirit that really mattered” FASHION HAS A very short memory, which I know from years writing on the subject. Coco Chanel when talking about her fellow designers with her usual acerbic contempt, said: “Only those with no memory insist on their originality.” Since the pandemic has thrown the crazy fashion system into chaos, maybe it’s time to look back at our history for ideas and lessons that could apply to the now challenged industry. Some may think that it all began here with the advent of Australian Fashion Week 25 years ago. As fashion editor of The Sydney Morning Herald at the time, I know there was already a roll call of designers who had developed the professional industry locally. Many of…

TUESDAY IS THE most popular day for people to seek help, according to Dervla Loughnane, whose business Virtualpsychologist provides psychology services by text. “Since the coronavirus started we’ve seen a 186 per cent increase in user engagement within our corporate clients, with 30 to 40 the highest-trending age group,” she says. With many reaching a low point in 2020, there’s been an uptick in demand. One-on-one 60-minute text sessions are offered 24 hours a day, seven days a week to employees of her paying corporate clients, and for free to those in rural and regional areas. The text-based service has resonated broadly. “Kids love texting because it’s non-confrontational, but we have clients of all ages. There are lots of situations where texting is a good alternative, especially during lockdown where…

THE DIRECTIVE WAS simple. “How can we work with tuberose so that it’s not going to smell like my grandmother’s tuberose?” recalls senior perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, of the olfactive brief designer Giorgio Armani issued for the brand’s newest scent, My Way. “That was basically what we had to work with, which is actually quite daunting when you think about it: to reinvent tuberose.” Even for decorated ‘noses’ like Jovanovic and the fragrance’s master perfumer, Carlos Benaïm – who between them have fashioned blockbuster scents including Polo Ralph Lauren, Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb, Calvin Klein Euphoria and Jil Sander’s Jil – Mr Armani’s vision posed a challenge. While white florals – notably tuberose – are rooted in perfumery for their heady and distinguishable sillage, the duo’s latest project meant applying radical…

THE WORD LONELINESS has had its time in the spotlight of late. Isolation, of course, has also been bandied about, but loneliness delves further. Whereas isolation is defined by minimal social contact, loneliness treks the subjective field of negative feelings that result from limited social interaction. Both can impact our physical and mental wellbeing. For Jenna Leo, addressing loneliness has been at the core of her social start-up, Home Care Heroes. “Loneliness is one of those things that’s generally not talked about,” she says. ”And from that aspect, people are mainly like: ‘No, I’m good. I don’t need any help, I’m fine.’” Founded with her husband Mat in 2016, Home Care Heroes is an online platform servicing residents of New South Wales that connects people wanting to provide support and…

THE HEROES NEVER changed form. Always flesh and blood; arms and legs and beating hearts as wide as this country. It was the villains who kept morphing on me. I once thought the bad guys all dressed like Darth Vader. Then I learned that the villains in my world wore Jackie Howe singlets and Stubbies shorts and double-plug blue rubber flip-flops that slapped against old wooden hallway floorboards to rhythms of their rage. That man-child monster my mum fell in love with once. That fat-bellied, fire-breathing dragon villain that she slayed without a sword, without a shield; nothin’ but a broke-down heart and two feet to walk away from the battle. And pistols at dawn for any mortal who dares to tell me she wasn’t Perseus, Odysseus and Luke fucking…

SPOTLIGHT FROM TIME TO time, artist Frances Cannon would see her work walk by on the street. “Sometimes I’ll let it go, but sometimes I’ll say: ‘Oh, nice tattoo.’” A creator of large-scale paintings, she also commands a sizeable fan base with her small line drawings, which she shares on Instagram and subsequently often end up on people’s arms, legs and hands … with her permission. “I love it that people connect so much with my work that they want to put it on them,” she says from Melbourne, two weeks into lockdown. “The first person, other than myself, who got my work tattooed is my best friend. So, it started off from a place of love and connection, and that has carried over to people I’ve never met before.”…

YOON AHN IS recalling her time in Rome, where she travelled to meet Lucia Silvestri, creative director of jewellery at Bulgari, in 2019. Speaking on a Zoom call from Tokyo, where she helms her jewellery and apparel line Ambush, she is transported back to Silvestri’s desk on the Lungotevere Marzio, where the creative director was toying, child-like, with precious gems and stones. “She had all of these crazy stones laid out on her desk and people bringing emeralds and rubies and sapphires the size of your fist,” Ahn remembers. “You would think someone would handle those with so much care and be a little intimidated, but she was picking them up like a toy.” Silvestri was feeling the stones for their energies. This gut-feel approach left a lasting impression, and…

“WE COULD BE looking at an 11th-century Chinese water clock, a seventh-century Islamic automaton, or a fifth century BC front dial – it doesn’t matter,” explains Michael Friedman, head of complications at Audemars Piguet, as he flits between different clocks and historical epochs over the phone. “Wherever you look, objects of time measurement were richly decorated, treated with reverence and respect. That’s an element that distinguishes them from all other works of culture and that’s a fascinating place to begin.” He is in charge of overseeing each timepiece at the Swiss watchmaker as it passes hands from artisan to client, and securing rare acquisitions for its newly reopened exhibition space, the Musée Atelier, in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, the birthplace of both haute horology and the 145-year-old Audemars Piguet. Though…

RICHARD TOGNETTI, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER ORCHESTRA (ACO) “One of the first fundraising gigs I did with the ACO in 1989 was at the architect Ken Woolley’s house, and the great man [Peter Weiss] came bounding up to me demanding answers to questions with his generous spirit on immediate display. He gave me a sense of confidence and made me see the need for constant reappraisal.” TIFFANY LEECE, MAJOR GIFTS MANAGER, ART GALLERY OF NEW SOUTH WALES “Mr Weiss’s impact on me and our family was his beautifully philanthropic nature. He cared deeply for the arts, and taught our family the joy of giving. This has inspired many years of philanthropy for our family, and my career at the Art Gallery of New South Wales.” MAGGIE TABBERER, MEDIA PERSONALITY AND…

AS THE MOVEMENT to actively recognise and remember the contributions of women continues apace worldwide, it is fitting to first look at Destiny Deacon’s Eva Johnson, writer (1994). In this work, Deacon, an accomplished KuKu and Erub/Mer artist, honours Johnson, a Malak Malak woman, acclaimed activist, poet, actor, director and playwright who has written about land rights, Stolen Generations and Aboriginal women’s rights and was named Aboriginal Artist of the Year in 1985. In Deacon’s portrait, Johnson, who was taken from her family and Country as a child of the Stolen Generations, adopts the pose of a young Aboriginal man in a painting by J.M. Crossland, Portrait of Nannultera, a Young Poonindie Crickete r (1854). Deacon felt sorry for this young man dressed like an English cricketer, trapped in a…

SELLING NEWSPAPERS ON a Melbourne street corner does not sound like a revolutionary act. But on a rainy April day in 1912, passers-by were appalled to see a woman presenting papers for public sale. And feminist papers too; it was little short of scandalous. Not that the occasional glares and mutterings worried the seller at all; 43-year-old Vida Goldstein had handled much more difficult situations than this. She had been the first woman anywhere in the Western world to stand for election to a national parliament – in Victoria, for the Senate, in 1903 in her mid-30s. This branded her as either a heroine or a shameless hussy and a member of the ‘shrieking sisterhood’. Any woman who pitted herself against men, for whatever reason, was widely regarded with suspicion.…

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VIRGO 24 AUGUST–22 SEPTEMBER Love is on your mind this month, with a chance to rid yourself of old emotional demons. A relationship could feel all-consuming so detach a little to give yourself some breathing space. As extreme passion calms down you’ll feel compelled to be honest, but be mindful that the truth can hurt both ways. STYLE ICON: Coco Rocha LIBRA 23 SEPTEMBER–23 OCTOBER It’s time to observe rather than engage, so avoid making your move too soon. Your body could feel like it’s been through the wringer this month so channel your sense of balance rather than going to extremes. You’ll focus on what really matters and see why friendship is where love is strongest now. STYLE ICON: Felicity Jones SCORPIO 24 OCTOBER–22 NOVEMBER Friends you’d trusted may…