Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2023 i Vogue

THE ASSIGNMENT CLEARLY STRUCK a chord. For years Annie Leibovitz and I have exchanged ideas for Vogue, and these are some of my favorite conversations. She always has such a clear vision of how to shoot a subject, or there’s a fantasy fashion portfolio already forming in her mind. And the idea I raised, of Kate Winslet on our cover as the legendary midcentury photographer Lee Miller, who Winslet was finally portraying in a film she’d been working on for years, clearly electrified Annie. As it had me. I’d been in touch with Winslet about Lee for a long time. Lee Miller famously became a war correspondent for Vogue during WWII, and so her history—one of adventure, restless creativity, and courage—was intertwined with ours. Winslet wanted to tell Miller’s story…

On a warm Wednesday morning in Manhattan’s South Street Seaport, as a throng of little girls and their mothers swells outside a Barbie-themed restaurant pop-up serving rainbow-sprinkle pancakes, another group has gathered in the service of very different IP. Josh Gad and Andrew Rannells are inspecting the letterpress at Bowne & Co. Stationers, inside the South Street Seaport Museum, where resident printers still operate machines from the 19th and early 20th centuries. (Bowne & Co. itself dates back to 1775.) This month, more than a decade after starring in The Book of Mormon, the Tony-nominated actors return to Broadway in Gutenberg! The Musical!, written by Scott Brown and Anthony King. The show centers on Bud (Gad) and Doug (Rannells), two friends staging a frantic run-through of their musical about—you guessed…

Few things remain as alluring as the stories of how our most wellknown models were discovered: Shalom Harlow, then 17, was attending a concert by the Cure in Toronto; Naomi Campbell, then 15, was window-shopping in Covent Garden when a modeling scout approached her; Linda Evangelista, 16, had just lost the Miss Teen Niagara pageant when she was “discovered” by an agent for Elite. Perhaps most famously, Kate Moss was waiting to board a plane headed back to her London home after a holiday in the Bahamas when she caught the eye of the founder of a new modeling agency, Storm. A year later, the photographer Corinne Day found her photo in a drawer at the agency and saw in her a reflection of where culture was headed—away from the…

The Real Deal For “Good Press” (page 136), a preview of the Broadway-bound Gutenberg! The Musical!, menswear editor Michael Philouze and photographer Stefan Ruiz found the perfect place to capture stars Andrew Rannells and Josh Gad. Their show—opening this month at the James Earl Jones Theatre—is about two friends, Bud and Doug, who have written a musical about Johannes Gutenberg, inventor of the movable-type printing press, “without knowing much about him,” Philouze explains. So, he thought, why not find the actors an actual press? Cut to the South Street Seaport Museum, where printing paraphernalia from the 19th and early 20th centuries is still in operation—and where Rannells and Gad had no trouble making a joyful scene. A Sense of Occasion “My hope in styling a very visible public servant is…

London, one Friday in late June, the scene is a dark, windowless editing suite. Kate Winslet is recording dialogue for Lee, a film she produced and stars in, about the life and work of Lee Miller, the Vogue model turned photographer turned war correspondent who documented the horrors of the concentration camps in the Second World War and was famously photographed in Hitler’s bathtub. This kind of carefully synced audio work requires precision and practiced technique. “It’s like solving a Rubik’s Cube within a time limit,” explains Winslet, who is fond of a metaphor. “It’s like finding that piece of cloud with the birds for the last corner of the jigsaw puzzle. That kind of satisfaction.” Winslet is dressed down in a pair of tight jeans and a T-shirt over…

IN THE MOMENTS before the start of Alaïa’s ready-to-wear show in Paris this past summer, the house’s creative director since 2021, Pieter Mulier, stood out among the team for his qualities of ease and calm. He spent some minutes chatting with his backstage visitors. He wandered over to the makeup room, found he wasn’t needed, and sat on a curb with the model Julia Nobis to smoke Marlboro Golds and talk. Shows weren’t always so comfortable—his last one, held within his own apartment, in Antwerp, had driven him into a nervous state—but this one took its rhythm from the summer evening and announced Mulier’s advancement to a master’s station. The runway would be the Passerelle Léopold-Sédar-Senghor, spanning the Seine between the Tuileries and the Musée d’Orsay. This bridge was one…

Omega Farm sits on top of a hill, the highest point in Hunterdon County, New Jersey, with sweeping views over fields and farms, the Sourland Mountains unfurling in the distance to meet a big and open sky. When you sit on the deck the sun rises on your right, just beyond a barn and another field and chicken run, a rooster crowing. The sun sets in spectacular fashion across the valley. The midday heat, which comes on hard and thick in July, is cut in half by a canopy of enormous oaks and ash. So complete is the canopy that a satellite image on Google shows only trees—no house. There are neighbors. There is mail and package delivery, the mailbox at the bottom of a long gravel driveway, but somehow…

I love fashion, and I love drawing clothing,” says the rising art star Drake Carr. In early 2023, members of Carr’s extended family—everyone from stylist Dara Allen to downtown artist Rose Mori to club luminary “Connie Girl” Fleming to the models Karlie Kloss and Pat Cleveland—showed up in all their rarefied glory to have their portraits drawn by Carr during his ad hoc residency at the studio of his friend, the photographer Ethan James Green. Carr’s drawings, paintings, and installations, at once unblinking and delicate, have an uncanny ability to distill the essence of his subjects. In an age of AI, where we are increasingly victims of bland manufactured content, the defiantly handmade quality of Carr’s work is subtly rebellious. As his friend Green puts it: “He manages to capture…

For European travelers, Mallorca is hardly an under-the-radar destination. Every year, sunseekers from the continent’s northern reaches migrate to the Balearic island like wildebeest across the Serengeti: whether flocking to the all-inclusive resorts that dot the coastline near the capital of Palma or gravitating toward the charming hilltop villages and rocky swimming coves of the UNESCO-protected Serra de Tramuntana mountain range. But this year, the island is beckoning a new, design-minded visitor to its shores. First, there’s Grand Hotel Son Net (starting at $660 a night), the second property from the team behind Finca Cortesin, the beloved Andalusian hideaway that has developed a feverish cult following. A palatial 17th-century villa painted a pleasing shade of terra-cotta and set high in the mountains, Son Net is surrounded by fragrant citrus orchards…

In June 2019, Karine Jean-Pierre was moderating a forum for presidential candidates when a protester rushed the stage. It’s a famous video: Finding herself seated between the oncoming protester and then senator Kamala Harris, Jean-Pierre leapt to her feet, raised a hand, and turned her body to face him—a five-foot-two one-woman blockade to the future vice president of the United States. On Morning Joe later that week, cohost Willie Geist marveled at her courage: “I know who I want moderating my next panel.” At the time, Jean-Pierre, who had worked in the Obama administration, was the chief public affairs officer for MoveOn.org and a political pundit. Her next moves would be swift: In 2020 she joined the Biden campaign as a senior adviser and later became Harris’s chief of staff.…