Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Wanderlust

We’ve gone wildlife-tastic this issue, bringing you plenty of ideas for getting close to nature. Mark Stratton’s story of a pioneering eco-camp in Cambodia (p22) is inspiring, but makes you realise how vital it is that travellers support such initiatives. Meanwhile, I’m just back from one of the most extraordinary wildlife trips of my life – see where on p74. Both stories highlight how tourism can be a power for good. The same can be said for Wanderlust. We often hear from readers how the magazine has changed their life. If this applies to you, then please do let us know as we’d like to feature some of your stories in our special 25th anniversary autumn issue; email info@wanderlust.co.uk with the subject line: ‘Wanderlust changed my life’. And we hope…

Think of Sicily and you envisage lush sun-drenched hills rippling with citrus groves. It’s a landscape as quintessentially Italian as its food. Yet few visitors realise that both owe a debt to the Moors, who once ruled the island (902–1061 AD) and brought oranges and lemons here. The Moorish influence is buried deep in a lot of Sicilian cooking, and nowhere more so than its arancini. Now iconically Sicilian, these tasty stuffed rice balls were first made by the Tuareg people, desert nomads who hailed from the Sahara region. But instead of rice, they used goat meat and couscous. Brought over to Sicily by its invaders, the arancini recipe soon evolved. In the 13th-century, the chef to King Frederick II swapped out couscous for rice, so it would be more…

EXPLORING BELIZE London, 5 September www.wanderlust.co.uk/ExploringBelize Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, SW7 2AR. See online for more details and to register for tickets. Join Wanderlust and the Belize Tourism Board for a fun and informative evening. Belize has something for every modern-day explorer; the compact country not only boasts the world’s second-largest reef but also magical Maya ruins, exceptional wildlife and a melting pot of cultures. Learn more about beautiful Belize with us over a glass of wine and some snacks. AN EVENING WITH MICHAEL PALIN London, 20 September www.rgs.org Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, SW7 2AR. 7.30pm. Tickets from £30 (plus booking fee and VAT). Book online. The telly globetrotter explores the fascinating history and stories behind HMS Erebus, a ship that became famous for several expeditions…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Phnom Penh Population: 15.75 million Language: Khmer, but most young people speak English these days. Time: GMT+7 International dialling code: +855 Visas: Required by UK nationals, and can be purchased at international airports or land border crossings on arrival, or online (evisa.gov.kh) for US$30 (£22) in advance. Money: Cambodian riel (KHR), currently around KHR5,365 to the UK£. However, US dollars (US$) are widely accepted. When to go The Cardamom Tented Camp is open year-round; conditions are hot and humid. ■ Monsoon season – heavy rains (particularly Sept and Oct) and flooding may curtail some activities. Of the activities identified thus far, staff can take guests to stork nesting sites. ■ Dry season – hot and sunny, with firefly-watching boat trips from Nov to Jan, when temperatures are…

1 Find a friendly welcome The majority of us like meeting new people, but it can be difficult. Booking an organised small-group tour (typically between eight and 16 people) cuts through all that. Sharing the day’s experiences at dinner is a rite of passage, especially on safaris and cruises when there’s plenty to be dissected. The same applies for trips where you have to muck in; for example, active sailing escapes are great for breaking down barriers, as you’re all in it together. It’s no surprise that, along with overland and rail adventures, these trips attract the highest number of solo travellers. TOP TIP: It pays to ask operators beforehand about the ratio of couples to singles on trips; you may not feel comfortable being the only solo. 2 Embrace…

1 Rakiura Track  This 32km looping hike on Stewart Island gently meanders through lush forest, rocky bays and sweeping sands. Spy a number of birds that speckle the route, including tui, kaka and dotterels. And come late evening, there’s a chance to spy elusive kiwi birds in the forests, or even see the world’s smallest penguins (little blue) playing out among the surf. 2 Abel Tasman Coast Track  Undoubtedly the best way to experience the Abel Tasman National Park, this trail (60km one way) winds bushlands, golden beaches and snorkel-worthy waters. When skirting its bays, keep your eyes peeled for sightings of fur seals, common dolphins and little blue penguins. If you fancy giving your legs a rest, swap your boots for paddles and kayak a section of the route,…

1 Choose the right subject Look for bold, simple subjects with strong shapes and lines. Simpler, less-busy graphic compositions will work much better in harsh light with strong shadows than scenes that rely on a lot of detail. Bold colours can also add impact, especially reds, oranges and yellows, which can contrast effectively with a deep-blue sky. 2 Use a polariser At midday there can be a lot of glare and reflection. These reduce contrast and colour saturation. Polarising filters block polarised light, reducing this glare and restoring natural colour. They are easy to use – simply rotate the filter until you see the effect you want in the viewfinder. 3 Shoot long exposures Neutral-density filters are dark filters that reduce the amount of light coming through the lens and…

How we did the test… We asked gear manufacturers to submit hold bags with four wheels. From the selection we were sent, our editor-at-large, Phoebe Smith, took them out on the road to see which performed best. The ‘Value Buy’ and ‘Best in Test’ are indicated. AMERICAN TOURISTER Soundbox £145 The test: This has a 100L capacity and is made from light, tough plastic yet is still the joint heaviest here at 4.2kg. It has two grab handles, a double telescopic handle and lockable zip but no external pockets. Inside are two compartments with straps, plus a zip pocket and mesh pouch. An expander zip allows for more capacity. Comes with a limited three-year warranty. The verdict: A sturdy value option. americantourister.co.uk ANTLER Juno 2 £169 The test: Largest (123L)…

Swarovski Optik is offering you the chance to win a pair of CL Companion binoculars and a Wild Nature Accessory Pack – a prize worth over £1,000. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: Q: Who founded the Swarovski Optik company? a) Wilhelm Swarovski b) Gustav Swarovski c) Nigel Swarovski To enter and for full terms and conditions and data policies, please go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions  or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p2). The closing date is 5 September 2018. State ‘More info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors.…

STAR LETTER Choppy travels Your ‘16 Fantastic Voyages’ feature [June 2018, issue 187] brought back memories of the five-night journey I took from Panama to Colombia via the San Blas archipelago. These are beautiful islands, and it was a privilege to meet the indigenous people of these tiny communities that are connected only by boat. The first three nights were spent around the relaxing waters of the Caribbean. The spirits of all 14 passengers and three crew were high, despite the cramped conditions. Then came the open sea crossing to Cartagena, which was a test of endurance for two nights. My shipmates dropped like flies with sickness, and I must emphasise to your readers to take note of your survival tips – preparation is key! I don’t regret this journey;…

Remembering England’s charms: “I recall how small the doorways in Castle Combe were! I wonder if it’s changed much.” Kerrin Lithgow Learning how other cultures deal with heat: “A tradition in Korea during Sambok (the hottest days around solstice) is to eat chicken soup with ginseng. Allegedly it rejuvenates you in the heat!” @MCAdventureBlog Being inspired by our mag: “Reading @wanderlustmag about safaris in Zimbabwe and now I really want to go!” @lolylena Getting sore hands on board foreign trains: “I remember how the Indian passengers clapped and cheered at every tunnel – there were over 100 tunnels!” Moira Southwell Looking forward to an icy adventure: “Counting down to an epic 24-day expedition cruise in the Arctic – Svalbard to Greenland and…

Tucan Travel is offering one lucky Wanderlust reader the chance to win one spot on its Classic Colombia trip, including a contribution of up to £650 towards flights. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: Q: What day is Colombia’s independence celebrated? (a) 20 June (b) 20 July (c) 20 August To enter, and for full terms & conditions and data policies, please go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions  or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p2); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors. The closing date is 5 September 2018.…

You’ve been sending in your entries for the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year 2018 by the thousand, but there’s still plenty of time to submit your images for the UK’s biggest travel photography competition. The standard of entry has, as always, been incredibly high, and if you’ve got a dazzling shot capturing a unique moment from your travels, whether from a recent escape or just gathering pixel dust on a forgotten memory card, then send it to us now! Please note that the competition is only open to amateur photographers, with the four category winners (along with a travel companion of their choosing) sent on a fantastic Wanderlust photo commission to Hong Kong and Macao courtesy of the Hong Kong Tourism Board and Macao Government Tourism Office. Win a…

• Essential Info Population: Around 322,000. Languages: English is the official language, but Oshiwambo, Afrikaans, German and many tribal languages are also spoken. Timezone: GMT+1 International dialling code: +264 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Currency: Namibian dollar (N$), currently around N$18 to the UK£. Highest viewpoint: Take the Independence Museum’s glass-walled exterior lift for panoramic views. Health issues: Recommended immunisations: diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid. There’s a risk of malaria in north and east Namibia, especially from November to June, so make sure to consult your doctor for the recommended prophylaxis and cover up to avoid bites. It’s also best to stick to bottled water. Recommended guidebooks: Bradt’s Namibia (2015) guide is a handy option. Web resources: The official website of…

Get orientated Kraków has a few origin stories, but none odder than this: they say it was once menaced by a dragon with a taste for livestock and virgins, until the Polish settlement was saved by a shoemaker who stuffed a hapless sheep with sulphur and left it for the monster to eat. The creature gulped the Vistula River dry to quench the burning, but it was vanquished. The man then married King Krakus’ daughter before founding Kraków proper. The Wawel Castle complex, which incorporates the great Gothic cathedral, celebrates 40 years of UNESCO-listed status in 2018. It also holds the bones of many of Poland’s former monarchs – but being on Wawel Hill, it also rests on the dragon’s former lair. The creatures remains are even said to hang…

We’re often told that humans and animals can’t live side-by-side. But our travels often reveal the truth to be different – take the macaques of Lopburi in Thailand or the polar bears of Churchill, Canada. As the human race spreads, more inventive ways have surfaced to harmonise the two. The ‘wildlife bridge’ that allows animals to cross the highway safely in Canada’s Banff NP is one example; Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, is another. For the latter, the grasslands and gorges of its titular national park ( pictured ) create a wild fringe to the city. This shot by Paras Chandaria, from new book Wonders: Spectacular Moments in Nature Photography (Chronicle Books, £26; out 7 August), frames the mix of urban and wild. But it’s not…

1 One reason Swaziland’s king gave for changing his country’s name to eSwatini was that people too often confused it with Switzerland; p18 2 The leeches in Cambodia’s Cardamom Mountains can hold their breathe for a really long time; p22 3 South Africa is home to 93% of the world’s remaining white rhinos; p88 4 Adding vodka to your water bottle will stop liquid from freezing when cold (or make you a jolly person); p102 5 Formerly The Blackball Hilton hotel in New Zealand included the word ‘formerly’ to avoid a lawsuit; p46…

The digital age has arrived, they said. The era of the guidebook is over, they said. That was in 2012, when guidebook sales in the UK and USA had plummeted by 40% since 2005. The situation looked bleak, with some sources predicting that the last guidebook in the UK would be sold within seven years – meaning 2019. Next year. ‘There will always be people – like Wanderlust readers – who want to get under the skin of a place’ But the death knell for the printed guide is far from sounding. In 2015, sales in the UK and US rose for the first time in a decade – up by 4.45% - and they’ve only grown further since. What does the industry put this resurgence down to? “The guidebook…

The spirit of adventure clings to this month’s bookshelf, like morning mist over a British river. First into the water is Matt Gaw, who paddles his homemade canoe through the UK’s waterways to get an intimate view of a wild island. The Pull of the River (Elliott & Thompson, £15) draws in the people, wildlife and literature that colour those channels and turns them into fresh inspiration to do a little meandering yourself. Will Buckingham engages with a very different culture at the end of his boat trip: the villages of Indonesia’s Tanimbar Islands. Stealing with the Eyes (Haus Publishing, £15) sees the former anthropologist recount his life-pivoting encounters with a superstitious, storytelling people on the verge of big change. Finding genuinely off-the-beaten-track places is tricky in this day and…

Why did you try a paddleboarding trip? I love to try out new things on my travels and while I’ve done kayaking and canoeing in the past, I’ve never done paddleboarding. I thought a leafy river stretch in Bedfordshire would be a great place to embark on a watery microadventure. How easy was it to pick up? It was surprisingly simple. I was tentative at first, but I drew confidence from seeing the rest of the group take to it like ducks to water (if you’ll excuse the pun). Transitioning from kneeling down and getting used to manoeuvring about to standing up and gently making my way downriver only took a matter of minutes. Did you have any guidance at all before you started? We had a short demo from…

Vitamin B capsules, yeast or foods rich in thiamine prevent mosquito bites. Some websites claim that eating thiamine-rich food makes you repellent to blood-feeders. It doesn’t. However, thiamine (aka vitamin B1) does reduce itching caused by bites. Thiamine protagonists advise increasing dietary intake (eg more yeast products, offal or whole grains) and taking one brewer’s yeast tablet daily while in bug-infested places. This strategy is okay if visiting midge-heavy Scotland or Scandinavia, for example, but it is unwise if heading for the tropics or even the Americas. Why? Because if biters are annoying, you’ll take avoiding action such as moving into a screened room or applying repellent. If you don’t notice the bites, however, you are more likely to do nothing and thus increase your risk of mosquito-borne disease, and…

VITAL STATISTICS State capitals: Campo Grande (Mato Grosso do Sul), Cuiabá (Mato Grosso) Language: Portuguese Time: GMT-4 (Oct-Feb GMT-3) International dialling code: +55 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Brazilian real (BRL), currently around BRL5 to the UK£ When to go Best time to visit – winter is the dry season, which makes it good for wildlife spotting as the animals tend to congregate around the remaining water. Wettest season – rains usually arrive in the late afternoon. A good time for spotting chicks and jaguar cubs. Shoulder months – rains gradually cease during this period. Expect beautiful watery landscapes and lots of aquatic birds. Access is more limited, but wildlife is often seen on the roads as the animals use them as highways. Health & safety  are remarkably…

“Keep your camera wrapped in a warm scarf and the spare battery in a glove (and within a waterproof bag when heading to shore), as extreme cold drains the power. Get your camera out only when you need to use it, both to keep it warm and so you’re not looking through a viewfinder all the time. It’s better to live in the moment!” Rowena Stack Adventure specialist Visit our website to submit your suggestions for next month’s tips on ‘Hong Kong & Macao’…

Beware the oncoming train “At the Maeklong Railway Market ( pictured ) in Thailand, they pull the stalls out of the way for a train to pass, then push them back when it’s gone. You wander the tracks, with stalls on each side selling everything from frogs to sweets.” Rachel Dayan Cricket crisps “At the market in Oaxaca, Mexico, there were gigantic bags of crickets everywhere. People seemed to be snacking on them like they were crisps.” Alison Blencowe Just like the movies “In Copacabana, Bolivia, I went to a street market that only sold popcorn. Dozens of stalls selling nothing but the same popcorn.” Caroline Antell Grilled guinea pig “In Cusco, Peru, there was a food market with lots of different foods made by local people. I…

HONG KONG Hong Kong’s festivals reveal a territory built on villages and islands that still hold to their traditions. Many are rooted in old fishing communities, such as the eccentric Bun Festival on Cheung Chau island, which honours the god of the fisherfolk and ends in a scramble up a tower of buns. Or explore the temples of the sea gods Tin Hau and Tam Kung on their respective birthday festivals to see parades and performers lighting up the city streets. But perhaps the most dramatic celebration is found in the Tai Hang area, when Mid-autumn Festival sees a 67m-long dragon snake out of Lin Fa temple for a 230-year-old tradition that has survived the ever-changing world around it. www.discoverhongkong.com MACAO Macao’s annual festivals offer a fascinating glimpse…

With South Australia offering such an array of activities, landscapes and wildlife, there are possibilities around every corner. Visit Australia with Trailfinders and look forward to a journey that will surprise, delight and leave you wanting more. Since 1970, more than 2 million people have used Trailfinders to arrange their travel plans Down Under, so no-one knows Australia like they do. Their consultants have travelled extensively in the region, and they look forward to helping you create an Australian holiday like no other. As the UK’s No.1 tour operator to Australia, you can look forward to multi award-winning service and exceptional value, so give them a call today and experience the Trailfinders difference and a perfectly planned holiday.…

Trailfinders’ experts have arranged Australia itineraries for over 2 million travellers, with wildlife often top of the bill. Try a two week trip that includes three nights in Adelaide, four nights on the wildlife-packed Kangaroo Island, one night in the Barossa Valley wine region, and concluding with five nights on the Great Barrier Reef, costing from £2,859 pp (based on two sharing). The holiday includes 13 nights’ accommodation, five days’ Avis car hire with a free upgrade, flights with Qatar Airways from London to Adelaide and Brisbane back to London, and domestic flights within Australia. For more info, contact Trailfinders on 020 7368 1364 or visit www.trailfinders.com…

Getting under the skin of a place like the Flinders Ranges needs a bit of context – you want to see other parts of South Australia to appreciate just how different it is. A two-week escape with Trailfinders includes three nights in Adelaide, one night in the Clare Valley, two nights at Rawnsley Park Station, one night at the Prairie Hotel and five nights in Sydney, costing from £1,589 per person (based on two sharing). The package includes 12 nights’ accommodation, five days car hire for the Ocean to Outback road trip, flights with Qatar Airways from London to Adelaide and Sydney back to London, and domestic flights within Australia. For more info contact Trailfinders on 020 7368 1364 or visit www.trailfinders.com Those wanting to follow in Nick Baker’s footsteps…

Play a game of word association and it’s likely that the word ‘Sicily’ will be met with one response: ‘the Mafia’. It’s a great cause of frustration for Sicilians that, with so much to offer on this beautiful and diverse island – fine food and wine, a flower-filled countryside, beaches, Mount Etna and pretty coastal villages – they’re still widely known as the home of a crime syndicate featured in films and TV series such as The Godfather and The Sopranos. Italy’s largest island – and, in fact, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea – has been conquered across the ages by many of its neighbours, including Greek, Roman, Arab, Norman and Spanish forces. All of them have left their marks, with castles, palaces and temple ruins on hilltops…

Mario Haberfeld Co-founder of the Onçafari Project Mario is co-founder of the Onçafari Project, a jaguar conservation scheme in the Brazilian Pantanal. He shows Lyn Hughes how they help farmers and big cats live in harmony (p74). Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Jungle. First great travel experience? Going to the Serengeti in Tanzania with my dad when I was 11. We’d camp every night and only have a shower when we found a waterfall. I spent my 12th birthday camping inside the Ngorongoro Crater. Favourite journey? A week-long trip canoeing down the Zambezi River at Mana Pools NP in Zimbabwe. It’s a fantastic place that’s booming with wildlife – it’s like you’ve gone back 500 years. Top five places worldwide? Pantanal, Brazil; Antarctica; Mana Pools NP, Zimbabwe;…

YES Tom Bourlet, Wanderlust reader “I was quick to judge Russia based on media reports and travel warnings. However, following the unbelievable reception at the 2018 World Cup and the warm treatment by local Russians, who were proud to welcome tourists, it inevitably sneaked onto my radar as a potential destination. With shots of the Kremlin, Lake Baikal and St Petersburg shown throughout the tournament, we got to see a beautiful and mystical side to this country. It is now firmly on my bucket list.” NO Lucy Smith, Wanderlust reader  “I’ve visited Russia previously, so I knew what the country had to offer and my positive opinion hasn t changed. When my friends and I visited Moscow for a girls’ weekend, we never thought the trip would be so topical…

Tucan Travel have been helping solo travellers on their adventures for over 31 years. Here, Operations Executive, Emma Nelson gives her top tips on how to ensure your journey on your own becomes the experience of a lifetime... Step out of your comfort zone Don’t be afraid. Travelling is all about new experiences, so be brave and do things you may not normally do. For instance, stay in a family-run casa particular in Cuba and practise your Spanish; or in Oaxaca, Mexico, you could sample the local grasshoppers at the Benito Juarez Market. Do your research It’s always a good idea to read up on your destination before you go, whether that means poring over Wanderlust or learning a few words of the local language. Customs and traditions vary all…

VITAL STATISTICS Largest town: Greymouth (South Island) Population: 32,400 Languages: English, Maori Time : GMT+12 (+13 Oct–Apr) International dialling code: +64 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to three months. Money: New Zealand dollar (NZ$), currently around NZ$1.95 to the UK£1. When to go Winter – the weather can be more settled during winter, and facilities are still open at Punakaiki and in Greymouth. Summer – best chance of warmer weather; streams and creeks should be low but facilities will be more in demand and the weather is still changeable. Shoulder season – and autumn see cooler weather, fewer crowds and more room in hotels and huts. Do check the opening times of facilities before you go and, as floods are possible, be sure to check…

BEST TIME TO VISIT: While Cambodia is warm year-round and can be explored any time of year, the best time to visit is from December to April, during the dry season. WHERE TO GO: Cambodia is incredibly diverse, with some of the highlights including visiting the province of Siem Reap and the ancient temples of Angkor Wat. Also worth a visit is the bustling capital of Phnom Penh, with its stunning Royal Palace – a perfect place to learn more about Cambodia’s turbulent past. Head to Kampot for fruit and pepper plantations, and the seaside resort province of Kep for breathtaking beaches in an area that is regaining popularity after the Khmer Rouge period. WHAT TO EAT: Cambodian food is all about contrasts – sweet and bitter, salty and sour,…

MATERIAL There are two main options: soft-sided and hard-sided luggage. Soft-sided bags have more give, so are good if you intend to cram them to full capacity (or a bit over). Check that there is a waterproof lining on the inside, to keep things dry. Also, bear in mind that even very durable fabrics can rip – though they are often easy to repair with duct tape or similar. Some travel companies insist on soft-sided bags, especially if you’re doing a trek or overland trip where packs are carried by animals or put on top of vehicles. Hard-sided cases are usually strong and made to withstand hard impact. However, they can be heavier unpacked and harder to close if you’re stuffing in extra souvenirs. WEIGHT The average hold-luggage limit on…

Brittany Tourism and Brittany Ferries are offering one lucky reader the chance to win a three-night break to Dinard for two, staying at the Castelbrac Hotel*****. The prize includes return crossings with Brittany Ferries, a tour of Saint-Malo, a stand-up paddleboard yoga session and a gastronomic sailing trip. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: Q: What is the capital of Brittany? a) Paris (b) Lyon (c) Rennes To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions  or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p2); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors. The closing date is 5 September 2018.…

1 Hammerhead shark, Galápagos Islands “If I had to chose one moment from my time in the Galápagos, it would be diving at Darwin’s Arch to watch hammerheads congregate. The sharks come from all directions and gather, swimming around each other in big balletic circles. At the very centre of this mass of hammerheads are the oldest, most mature females. The younger sharks swim around them. When the males eventually come in to mate, they’ve got to weave and wind their way through this mass of bodies, so only the strongest, fittest males will get to mate with the females in the centre.” 2 Chimpanzee, Tanzania Gombe National Park, where Jane Goodall studied chimpanzees for many years, is a special place. You first realise it as you arrive by boat…

The highlight: I celebrated my 77th birthday on Norfolk Island on their Bounty Day on 8 June, which was special. I also saw dozens of migrating whales off Fraser Island – six weeks earlier than expected – and wild koalas on Magnetic Island. Must see: Norfolk Island, as a whole, and Australia’s Sunshine Coast, too. Top tip: Treat yourself to a float plane trip over the Great Barrier Reef and the Whitsunday Islands, then land on Whitehaven Beach to finish. Cautionary tale: Even though we went during their winter period, it was still really hot. I wish I’d known... To warn my family that internet access on Norfolk Island is hit and miss. Anything else? People should know that getting old(er) isn’t a barrier to adventure holidays. I travelled by…

CHRISTOPHER ROCHE People category winner “Having recently been to Mount Kailash in Tibet, Chechnya and Kurdistan, it was suggested that I might enjoy visiting Thailand’s northern hill tribes. But I had in mind a plan to visit the country’s famous shores instead and was given some great options. The challenge was to try and shoot something original, so I headed for the lesser-developed islands and focused my lens on seascapes and landscapes (particularly the fabulous limestone karst formations). I aimed to capture a sense of calm, leisure and rest – as that was what I was hoping for myself – and that is exactly what I got.” JULIA WAINWRIGHT Wildlife category winner “Wildlife photography was my original plan, but this trip became more about urban macaques, elephant welfare and birdlife,…

In as little as two weeks you can enjoy an incredible holiday in Oz. Many of Trailfinders’ itineraries begin in Adelaide, including three nights in the vineyard city itself as well as two nights in the Adelaide Hills, enjoying the Morialta Conservation Park and its wonderful wineries. After that, you’ll spend four nights on Kangaroo Island discovering the country’s iconic wildlife and four nights in Sydney, costing from £2,449 per person (based on two sharing). The holiday includes 13 nights’ accommodation, six days’ Avis car hire with a free upgrade, flights with Qatar Airways from London to Adelaide and Sydney to London and domestic flights within Australia. Trailfinders can tailormake wildlife and wine touring options to ensure you enjoy the best of South Australia with passionate local experts. For more…

1 Southern Ocean Lodge Billed as ‘Australia’s first super-lodge’, expect five-star thrills, from the spa and the restaurant to the secluded clifftop setting. 2 Wandering Souls Glamping, Kangaroo Island-style – unique bell tents bring a touch of ease and high-end elegance to your outdoor experience. 3 Ecopia Retreat Opened in March 2018, this comfortable, eco-friendly retreat sits right in the heart of Kangaroo Island’s breathtaking wilderness. 4 Sea Dragon Lodge This family-run lodge offers an eco-friendly seafront escape with its own secluded beach and private decks overlooking the lapping waves.…

Before you arrive Windhoek is Namibia’s capital and international gateway, and is nestled deep in a picturesque valley in the centre of the country, flanked by the Khomas Hochland Plateau to the west and the Auas Mountains to the east. For those who have yet to visit the country, a Namibian holiday may bring to mind worrying visions of sweltering heat. But at 1,700m above sea level, Windhoek is spared the oppressive weather found in many other parts of the country, with temperatures rarely going over 30 degrees (ºC) in summer, while in winter they dip to around six degrees, on average. Settled by the Germans in the 1890s, it has an interesting mix of European and African architecture, but it’s keen to shake off its provincial image and colonial…

• Essential Info When to go: Year-round. Summer months, especially July and August, can be both busy and hot. May, June and September still have warm weather, and so are good times to go. Getting there: easyJet (easyjet.com) flies from London Gatwick, London Luton and Liverpool to Palermo, starting from £24.68 per person (one-way, not including baggage). British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com) have single fares from £44 and fly between March and October. Getting around: The Old Town is walkable and easy to find your way around. It’s also possible to rent bikes – a good way to get around quickly and to reach sites a bit further out. There are also buses, trains and taxis (but check the fare first, where possible). Where to stay: Butera28 (+39 333…

• Chapel of the Holy Cross The last resting place of Casimir IV Jagiellon and his wife, Elisabeth von Habsburg (Elzbieta Rakuszanka), also called ‘Mother of Queens’. Veit Stoss sculpted the tomb of Casimir IV from red marble. • Main entrance On the walls of the entrance area are the bones of a mammoth, woolly rhinoceros and a whale, put there to protect the cathedral — although some claim they’re dragon bones. According to legend, as long as they hang there, the cathedral will continue to exist. • Main altar This is where the royal heads of Poland were crowned. At the foot of the altar is the bronze tombstone of Cardinal Fryderyk Jagiellonczyk (Frederick Jagiellon, 1468-1503), a son of King Casimir IV Jagiellon. As the primate of Poland and Lithuania, he was…