Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2020 i Wanderlust

Perched on the cliffside of the upper Paro valley, the Tiger’s Nest monastery is the stuff of legend. As the story goes, in the 7th century the Second Buddha hitched a ride on a flying tiger to meditate in a mountain cave, fight demons and convert the locals to Buddhism. Ten centuries later, it was turned into Paro Taktsang, a monastery marking the site of his arrival. Hike two hours from the valley floor, following hairpin twists and turns, to stand 3,000m above sea level overlooking the valley. Then explore the three temples and the Buddha’s cave.…

LOCAL HEROES FOLLOW THE LEADERS IN MYANMAR ›BURMA› Let the locals lead you into their culture on Audley Travel's bespoke Classic Myanmar trip. Not only will they welcome you into their homes, showing you how they live and work, you’ll see how your tour combines with charity projects to sustain their traditional way of life. Along the way, you’ll cast nets with fishermen, sleep in stilted teak houses and canoe down Inle Lake at sunset. Then you can cook up a storm on a culinary class with a twist, sourcing your ingredients from Nyaung Shwe villagers, trying your hand at the lingo along the way, before sitting down to dine on your creation. Who? Audley Travel (01993 833105; audleytravel.com) When? Year-round How long? 16 days How much? From £5,890 (including…

1 Costa Rica Named a United Nations Champion of the Earth in 2019 – one of the highest environmental honours – Costa Rica is also set to become the world’s first plastic-free and carbon-neutral country by 2021. Plans include banning plastics and fossil fuels, using renewable energy and growing the country’s protected areas. As one of the most biodiverse places on earth, it’s a must-visit. 2 Bhutan This small nation on the eastern edge of the Himalayas was the world’s first carbon-negative country. While it produces 1.5m tonnes of carbon every year, this is absorbed by planting trees (Bhutan is 72% woodland) and using hydroelectric power and electric vehicles. Visit for its monasteries, ancient traditions and cuisine, but stay for its mountains, forests and fresh air (see p28). Copenhagen This…

1 Svart Norway Located just above the Arctic Circle, Svart will be the world’s first energy-positive hotel when it opens to guests in 2021. The circular property has a 360-degree view of the Svartisen glacier, and aims to reduce its yearly energy consumption by 85% compared to other modern hotels, by using solar energy. svart.com 2 Jetwing Surf Sri Lanka Experience a piece of eco-luxury on the beaches of Arugam Bay on Sri Lanka’s southeastern coast. The hotel’s construction and design has been inspired by nature with structures made from wood, palm leaves and dried iluk grass, built to create as little disturbance to the surrounding vegetation as possible. Where feasible, natural ventilation and lighting is used and waste water is biologically treated to protect the natural habitat.…

Discover the World (01737 888 466; discover-the-world.com ) offers tailor-made self-drive holidays and escorted tours to the north of Iceland. Its 11-night Arctic Coast Way self-drive trip, available between May and September, costs from £1,604pp based on two sharing, including hotel accommodation with breakfast, car rental and exclusive iDiscover App. A 3-hour horseriding tour with Iceland Horse Tours (icelandhorsetours.com) costs 13,000 ISK pp (£82). Scuba diving in Eyjafjörður with Strýtan Dive Center (strytan.is) costs from 30,000 ISK to 40,000 ISK pp (£190–£253), including dry suit and equipment rental. Whale-watching tours with North Sailing in Húsavík (northsailing.is) cost 10,690 ISK (£68). Northern Lights tours from Akureyri with Saga Travel (sagatravel.is) cost 9,900 ISK pp (£63).…

1 Santo António The self-proclaimed ‘world’s smallest capital’ is a warm, smiling place. Sip a cold Rosema beer in a shack bar or dance in a weekend disco to kizomba (from Angola) and kadançe (from Angola and Cape Verde). 2 North-east beaches Praia Boi, with its squeaky-clean golden sand, and Praia Banana are among the planet’s most photogenic beaches. 3 Pico Papagaio ‘Parrot Mountain’ lives up to its name: on the steep, hike to the top of Príncipe’s iconic 680m summit you’ll hear grey parrots and kingfishers. 4 Roça Sundy Just one of the island’s visitable historic estates, this former plantation offers an insight into the colonial system, as well as a chance to understand modern life for many islanders. 5 Baía das Agulhas A…

DUTCH QUIRK “One of the most unusual purchases I’ve made is a pair of bright pink clog slippers from Amsterdam. I haven’t the heart to wear them.” Donna Michael BEARY NICE “I bought a couple of cute glass polar bears while on holiday in Sarasota, Florida. They did look a bit out of place when the temperature was 28°C, but the air con was quite cold inside the shop.” Alan Mees JINGLE ALL THE WAY “My mum is Christmas crazy, so she’s always on the lookout for tree ornaments wherever she goes, at any time of year! I’ve started looking on her behalf and now it’s a tradition in my house too – my Christmas tree is covered in baubles and trinkets from my travels.” Kirsty Jones GLOBAL DRINKS “I…

Where to go... First-timers will want to tick off the usual highlights – Cape Town, the Winelands and the Kruger. For something a little different though, explore the wild flowers and remote scenery of the Northern Cape or head to KwaZulu-Natal, where you can combine the famous battlefields with hiking in the Drakensberg Mountains. Best time to go... When to go depends on what you want to see. For the best weather in Cape Town, travel from November to March. For the best wildlife sightings in the Kruger, go from June to August. For world-class whale-watching, head to Hermanus from June to November. Top tip... Climb to the top of Lion’s Head – it’s less crowded than the path up Table Mountain and you’ll enjoy views over Cape Town that…

To The Lake Kapka Kassabova Granta, £15 Three Tigers, One Mountain Michael Booth Jonathan Cape, £15 The old saying goes ‘we have more in common than which divides us’. Well, some countries did not get that memo. This month sees two travel titles exploring regions largely through the bitter history that has torn neighbours asunder. Kapka Kassabova’s follow up to her plaudit-laden Border, To The Lake is another study of people living on complicated boundaries. She follows her family history back to lakes Ohrid and Prespa, sitting on the crossroads of Albania, Macedonia and Greece, where the people are still counting the cost of the centuries of war. With the benefit of being blood – “Whose are you?” she’s often asked – Kassabova is able to turn generations of vast…

“I can identify about 700 birds by sight and call – it’s like knowing 700 languages” I love to work outdoors. I grew up in the countryside, in Guápiles, so being outdoors all the time is important to me. I wasn’t sure I’d be a guide until I started training and found that I liked to be in contact with the environment and that it would be my future office! After 25 years, it’s still my office! Birds are like human beings. I can identify about 700 birds by sight and call. Their calls are interesting, because they’re quite complex. It’s like knowing 700 languages, but it’s not like I know all of them – it’s about identifying behaviour, too. Knowing the distance, elevation or location also helps me to…

Stefania Urbini Landscape – p12 Since she started her travels, Stefania has been collecting memories with her camera, using it to share her emotions about places she’s been. Her photo shows us life after dusk in Poland’s age-old Bia›owieza Forest. It’s haunting. Most inspiring moment: “Seeing Uluru, the giant monolith in the middle of the Australian outback. Walking the perimeter is a spiritual experience in itself, but taking a break at Mutitjulu Waterhole fills your heart with joy.” Monika Mazurkiewicz Travel icons – p16 Monika finds inspiration everywhere, readily admitting her addiction to the shutter-release button. Her candid shot of London’s palace guards proves that even the best photos can be taken at the back. Most inspiring moment: “I love blue. I remember arriving in Chefchaouen, in Morocco – everything…

60 The percentage of land that is required by law to be under forest cover at all times. At least Bhutan can see the forest for the trees. $250 The price travellers must pay per day ($200 certain months, with up to $40pp supplement for solo travellers and couples). This helps to prevent overtourism, while covering transport, accommodation, food, entry fees and a guide for key sites. 1972 The year former King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, said: “Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross Domestic Product.” Well, if his Majesty says so, who are we to disagree?…

“The Greek Islands’ beauty is completely surprising” How did The Greek Islands series come about? It came about with me sitting at my kitchen counter thinking about my Greek roots and the more than 40,000 words in the English language whose etymology is Greek. I wanted to do a series that explored it a bit, and I thought it was time that my mum had a bit of the action on TV because my Dad’s got all the glory for the walks. What was it like returning to your Greek roots? Me and my mum end up on the isle of Chios, which is where my grandparents are from originally, although they emigrated to Wales. Chios is the world’s exporter of Mastiha, which derives from the mastic tree. The people…

SCANDINAVIA Both of these green destinations appear in the top ten list of the World Happiness Report, so a Scandinavian spring city break ought to put a smile on your face. But, should you opt for Stockholm or Helsinki? VERDICT: There’s much to admire in these Nordic capitals and plenty of cafés to collapse in after a busy day’s sightseeing. Stockholm may have a slightly broader appeal for the classic city break fan, while contemporary design devotees will be delighted with Helsinki. AT A GLANCE Stockholm Population 972,647 Total area 188 sq km Famous for Its island structure, orange-hued old town and being the birthplace of Swedish pop supergroup ABBA Helsinki Population 648,042 Total area 213 sq km Famous for World-class design, bursts of Art Deco architecture and the blindingly…

Explore Georgetown The capital’s British and Dutch heritage has resulted in some beautiful (if crumbling) colonial buildings. Mix in a strong Caribbean influence, and you have a melting pot of culture. Sights are low-key but include St George’s Cathedral, one of the largest wooden structures in the world. Friendly manatees hang out in the botanical gardens and National Park. Backyard Café, Georgetown Chef Delven Adams runs Georgetown’s hippest and tiniest restaurant in his backyard. Reservation needed. Iwokrama Canopy Walkway The Iwokrama Reserve protects one of the last pristine rainforests in the world; around 200 species of mammal, and 500 birds call it home, as well as black caiman, giant river otters and jaguars. The walkway gives a unique perspective of the forest . Community tourism Guyana is a shining example…

1 Hi Fly The Portuguese charter airline has completed its first plastic-free flight trial. It aims to be the first plastic-free airline at the end of this year. 2 Norwegian The airline pledged to become climate-neutral by 2050. It has introduced the option for customers to offset their carbon footprint during booking and have upcycled old uniforms to sell as sustainable products such as toiletry bags. 3 Scandinavian Airlines In November, SAS announced that its new food packaging design will save 51,000kg of plastic a year. Passengers are also able to opt to buy biofuel instead of conventional fuel when booking. 4 easyJet The no-frills airline has announced that it is operating net-zero carbon flights across its whole network by offsetting the carbon emission from the fuel of every flight.…

1 Steppes Travel As well as ensuring they are carbon balanced, Steppes Travel run the Steppes Fund for Change: book any trip and £25 of your money goes towards funding women’s empowerment and wildlife conservation programmes, with another £25 going towards a UK tree planting scheme and a nuclear fusion researcher at Oxford University. steppestravel.com 2 G Adventures G Adventures set up the Planeterra Foundation in 2003 to help the communities affected by the social and environmental impacts of tourism by empowering them to develop and conserve their culture. gadventures.co.uk 3 Responsible Travel Since 2001 Responsible Travel has been an agency representing eco-friendly tours and trips that focus on local culture and people, independent business and wildlife conservation. The organisation campaigns for positive change through its ‘give back’ programme. responsibletravel.com…

1 Geitafell Seafood Restaurant Their signature fish soup is the main draw to Geitafell Seafood Restaurant on the Vatnsnes peninsula. But it’s also worth ordering the Skyrcake, a light, creamy cheese cake with blueberry jam. geitafell.is 2 1238: Battle of Iceland museum The new opened modern exhibition space tells the story of the country’s bloody civil war, with a Virtual Reality set-up so you can get in on the action. 3 Bjorboðin Bjorboðin (the Beer Spa) at Árskógssandur has big wooden bathtubs filled with ‘young beer’ and bath oils for a relaxing soak, with your own beer tap by the tub-side. bjorbodin.is 4 Baccalá Bar Set inside a Viking boat, Baccalá Bar is on the harbour of Hauganes. Try the traditional Icelandic dish that gives the place its…

‘THE BATTLE BETWEEN THE FORCES OF GOOD AND EVIL RAGES FIERCELY ON A TINY AFRICAN ISLAND...’ You see, bad is cool. Fearsome warriors enveloped in hellfire yellow and Hades red stomp and swagger to pounding drums and ear-piercing whistles. They sport Stygian shades and swarthy beards, and shake lances and rattle sabres with chin-jutting brio. There’s Feiticeiro, the Sorcerer. There’s Rei Diablo, Rei Burlante and Rei Tempeste – the Devil King, the Swindler King and the Storm King. Gigante, the Giant, overshadows all. God’s army is a tepid bunch in comparison, clad in wan white and blue, plodding and staid. No wonder the crowd cheers the other side: today, the Devil has the good music. One thing is certain, though: ‘good’ will triumph – it always does in the Auto…

Call of nature I was interested to read in your anniversary edition [issue 200; October 2019] Dr Jane’s comments on bottom-washing. I have seen similar suggestions several times before, but they don’t explain how. So, job done: you are sitting on the toilet seat, knickers or pants around your ankles, jug of water in hand. Presumably the next step is to flex your knees to raise the target area into accessibility, and then you let fly blindly with the water. Even if you manage a ‘beginner’s luck’ direct hit at your first attempt, it leaves two big questions for the uninitiated bottom washer. Firstly, how do you prevent the dirty water from running down your legs and soaking your knickers and pants, and maybe even leaving a puddle on the…

Hidden Places Sarah Baxter White Lion Publishing, £15 What is a hidden place? It’s a question we ask ourselves a lot, but it seems as though travel journalist and longtime regular Wanderlust contributor Sarah Baxter has the answer. Taking us on a wild – and charmingly illustrated – sojourn through 25 obscure locations, Sarah exposes the places we never knew we needed to be. Flip through the artful pages to find secret citadels only reached by foot, the jungle-covered belly of the Mayan underworld, underwater ruins in the Pacific and phantoms in Germany’s Black Forest. It’s a book to help you plan your next adventure – just don’t spread the word. Gibbous Moon over Lagos Pamela Watson Hardie Grant, £15 Out of the villages and into the city is the…

PARAMO Torres Alturo Jacket, £225 Staying warm can mean the difference between a good and a great trip – you don’t want to think back to your journey to the northern lights and simply remember how cold you were. That’s why an insulated jacket is key. Paramo has been ethically making these since the 1980s, giving gainful employment to ‘at-risk’ women in Colombia and working with the World Land Trust to offset all the carbon produced in the running of the business and never using toxic chemical waterproofing treatments. All this and they’ve still made a warm insulated jacket that works well. Due to their Nikwax Analogy insulator fabric (which directs moisture away from the wearer), it will even keep you warm when it gets wet. paramo-clothing.com Special mention: The…

Population: 2.9 million Language: Portuguese Time zone: GMT+0 International dialling code: +351 Visas: UK passport holders and citizens of the EU don’t currently require a visa. Currency: Euro (EUR), approximately €1.19 to the UK£, although it fluctuates. Health issues: There are no major health issues to be aware of, although many visitors avoid the tap water, mainly on taste grounds. Sunburn and sunstroke are real hazards – Lisbon may be a city, but a whole day sightseeing with the sun glaring back off the river offers similar exposure to a day on the beach. Guidebook: Lonely Planet’s Pocket Lisbon is a handily sized guide that’s broken up into easy-to-navigate chapters themed around the city’s different districts. It’s an invaluable companion when used alongside a smartphone and map app. Useful websites:…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at www.wanderlust.co.uk Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at www.facebook.com/ wanderlusttravel magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the…

Remembering a trip to Peru: Machu Picchu is one place that lives up to its hype.” @travellustlarry Recalling Ethiopia’s rock-cut Lalibela: “Was there during the festival of St George. Amazing experience to be there at dawn with the pilgrims who travel from miles around.” @2WeekTraveller Sharing memories of Namibia: “The contrasts and incredible wildlife make this a photographer’s dream location.” Jeremy Painting Remembering his favourite things about Pakistan: “Breakfast at Cuckoo’s Den, Lahore, and a drive through Margalla Hills in Islamabad.” Faisal Amjad…

SAY CHEESE Forget cheese and wine – pair Swiss gouda with Red Panda beer on a tastebud-tickling tour of the fuel-efficient Swiss Farm Project, Bhutan’s one and only commercial cheese factory and microbrewery. Bon appétit! BLOOMING WONDERFUL In winter, snows dusts the Dochula Pass, but in spring, you’ll find the white stuff melts to reveal bursts of white magnolia and scarlet rhododendron littering the forest floor. Budding botanists are sure to be pleased with the scents on show. TAKE A BOW Pick up a bow and arrow and take a shot at the country’s national sport at an archery class in Thimphu or Paro. If you’d rather stay on the rowdy sidelines, head to a bha cho (archery field) in any town or village to see how the locals do…

The Arctic Bath may have been a long time coming (nearly a decade, in fact), but it’s well worth the wait. Now, travellers to Sweden’s far north can sleep under the swinging lights of the aurora borealis or an undying sun at this cosy wellness retreat, the only one of its kind to freeze into the Lule River in winter and float during summer. Created by the team behind the nearby Treehotel, much of the Arctic Bath’s charm lies in the unique floating stance of its spa and cabins – the root of its lengthy wait time – and eco-friendly design. Woven from naturally felled local pine and spruce, the circular spa building reflects a log jam in the river: a reminder of the time when the Lule transported timber…

Air travel: friend or foe? “Flights do emit more carbon emissions per passenger than any other form of transport, but does this mean we shouldn’t fly at all?” To fly or not to fly has become the most pressing question among travellers in recent years. This was highlighted three years ago when Swedish singer Staffan Lindberg announced he had given up flying because the carbon footprint was too great. It launched a nationwide flight-shame movement that has now gained worldwide traction thanks to Greta Thunberg, the Extinction Rebellion protests and a new UK Flight Free 2020 campaign that is currently being copied in France and Canada. Flights do emit more carbon emissions per passenger than any other form of transport, but does this mean we shouldn’t fly at all? Reports…

1Take a river cruise Wendy Wu Tours’ new eco-friendly vessel, Victoria Mekong, is now offering four new group tours and two private tours through Cambodia and Vietnam by river cruise. The boat boasts an advanced water purification system, uses solar power to heat water and aims to reduce its plastic usage. 2 Travel by ferry Ferries are generally a greener option than flying. Norway will see five new electric passenger ferries hit the water in 2021. The new vessels being launched by Boreal Sjø will run between Oslo City Hall and the Osloford islands. 3 Ride in an electric safari car At Ol Pejeta Bush Camp in Kenya’s Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Asilia is one of the first safari operators to launch an electric car safari. Not only is the vehicle…

1 Gorilla tracking in Rwanda and Uganda There are only around 1,000 gorillas left in the wild but, thanks to eco-tourism, numbers are on the rise. The price of visiting is high, and rules are strict, but you’ll not only be experiencing a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, you’ll be helping protect the gorillas and support local communities too. 2 Take a small boat to the Galápagos While too much tourism on fragile ecosystems such as the Galápagos can have a negative impact, the funds generated are also used for conservation in the area. The Galápagos Island NP have strict guidelines to follow to protect the islands’ unique flora and fauna, but small boat trips are a great way to see the wildlife, such as the giant tortoises, and help make a difference.…

Vital statistics Capital: São Tomé city (Príncipe: Santo António) Population: 216,000 (8,000 on Príncipe) Language(s): Portuguese (official), plus several creole languages Time: GMT (no daylight saving) International dialling code: +239 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays up to 15 days. Money: Dobra ($), currently about $28 to the UK£1. ATMs are rare outside São Tomé city, and credit cards are accepted only at major hotels and resorts. Bring euros to change into dobras. When to go June to September: This is the main dry season, although rain is always possible. There’s also a short dry season from mid-January to mid-February, which is rather hotter. During these periods, the sky is often cloudy, so conditions are best for hiking – temperatures remain around 27°C. Humpbacks migrate past Príncipe between…

• Energy efficiency: Save energy and avoid future emissions by switching fuel. Projects to support include funding fuel efficient stoves and clean drinking water programmes, which reduce wood fuel consumption. • Forestry: A number of projects focus on soaking up the CO2 directly by planting trees and working to protect forests. Unfortunately saplings don’t soak up a lot of CO2, so it would take a long time to have any effect; however longer-term it is still helping to offset our actions. • Methane capture: CO2 is not the only greenhouse gas to worry about. Methane is much more powerful and it’s released when organic waste breaks down. Capturing methane from landfill sites can also help offset carbon emissions. • Renewable energy: Funds towards wind farms, hydroelectric and geothermal power plants…

Phoebe Smith An award-winning writer, broadcaster and photographer, Phoebe is Wanderlust’s travel gear expert and chaired the Gear of the Year judging. Dwayne Fields The first black Briton to walk over 400 miles to the magnetic North Pole, Dwayne uses gear regularly on his travels and knows the value of kit that works under pressure. Paul Goodyer Paul founded and ran Nomad Travel and Nomad Travel Clinics. He has also worked as Logistics Assistant for the TV production company who made BBC’s Beyond Boundaries.…

1 Attend Jazzablanca Now in its 15th year, the White City’s most popular music festival showcases world-renowned and rising jazz, pop and indie artists from Morocco and beyond. Jazzablanca (jazzablanca.com) hosts around seven concerts a day, spread across two venues and four stages, alongside talks, workshops and events. 2 Bag a unique stay At Hôtel Le Doge Relais & Châteaux (hotelledoge.com), a 1930s villa has been lovingly restored to its former Art Deco grandeur, with a deep red carpeted spiral staircase and 16 rooms, all individually decorated with period furnishings. There’s also a Moroccan restaurant, rooftop Spanish restaurant and a small spa. 3 Wander around a must-see museum The small but perfectly formed Abderrahman Slaoui Foundation Museum (musee-as.ma) has a unique private collection of Moroccan decorative arts,…