Indholdsfortegnelse for April 2016 i Wilderness

If you’ve been to Mueller Hut, loved it, but want something a bit more challenging and with equally stunning views, then a scramble to Sefton Bivouac is an excellent choice. Aside from some boulder hopping as you enter Stocking Stream; and the steep ascent of the rocky spur leading to the snowfields and bivvy above, a key challenge is finding the right point to access the spur. Just past Stocking Stream Shelter, step off the boardwalk and head west for 15 minutes until the point where Stocking Stream begins to gain elevation. Take care to find the spur trail on the true right of the stream. It is not immediately apparent, but look for cairns. On the ascent, the view to Mount Cook Village and beyond just gets better and…

The pungent smell of marijuana smoke hung in the air around the four young men who sat jovially on the steps of Lake Mackenzie Hut. Their portable stereo broke the otherwise serene environment that is normally the Zen of the outdoors. In hindsight, the already quarter-empty bottle of Jack Daniels should have set off alarm bells about how the rest of the evening was likely to unfold – a night devoid of peace and quiet – but my wife’s twisted ankle made the hut a glorious respite so we didn’t think too much about it. That evening we mingled with the other hut occupants over dinner and a roaring fire, while our four male friends continued to enjoy the company of Jack D. By 10pm we were both in bed…

In January, a group of trampers from Wakatipu Tramping Club decided to take a trip to Lake Wilson. It’s a fabulous location, overlooking Lake Harris where the distant Routeburn Track meanders to its highest point before disappearing into Fiordland. Six hours into the trip, the group had reached Lake Harris where they veered off the Routeburn Track to the Valley of the Trolls. It was here they breathed a collective sigh of relief. For this was the first time they’d had silence on the trip… the first moment without another soul in view. “We were blown away by the number of day walkers on the Routeburn – there were hundreds of them,” explains club president Jude Collett. “There was never a time when we weren’t seeing people all the way…

Michael Taylor lived for the outdoors. Former president and avid member of the Tararua Tramping Club for more than 30 years, he was described as the ‘prince’ of the club. His death on New Year’s Eve in 2011 sent a wave of shock and sadness through the outdoors community; Taylor fell while scouting a new track on Mt Twilight in Mt Aspiring National Park. He was 60. Since his death, Taylor’s contribution to the outdoors has lived on. In his will, he left $443,000 to both the Tararua Tramping Club (TTC) and to the Federated Mountain Clubs (FMC), funding which has allowed both organisations to carry out projects such as hut development, mountain safety programmes, guidebooks and youth scholarships. Taylor was a beloved member of the TTC, and after his…

If you have driven to the Chateau Tongariro, you have seen the Tongariro Forest Conservation Area. But you probably paid it only the briefest glance before feasting your eyes on its glamorous neighbour across the road, Tongariro National Park. Yet Tongariro Forest abounds with recreational opportunities for the adventurous tramper and mountain biker. Criss-crossed by old logging roads, the forest is recovering after nearly 70 years of rapacious logging, but there are pockets of marvellous bush which escaped the carnage. This circuit can be done as a (long) day tramp but, as navigation can be challenging, two days allows a leisurely pace and the chance to take your time over the tricky sections. After leaving my vehicle at the Okupata Caves parking area, a 3km walk back along Pukehinau Road…

The Kepler Mountains lie in a stunning part of Fiordland where lakes, rivers and ranges intersect between the region’s two greatest lakes – Manapouri and Te Anau. These mountains, and their ancillary ranges, make up much of the northern shore of Lake Manapouri and the southern side of the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau, with their foremost recreational feature being the Kepler Track Great Walk. This in itself is incentive enough to visit these high summits, yet there is so much more for the tramper, kayaker and camper. Large, remote alpine lakes are a major point of interest and are associated with numerous post-glacial cirques, large catchments and few tracks; there are challenges here to test all comers. Access is difficult, with the only reliable ground route being via…

1 Start with your feet hip-width apart. Hands on your hips. 2 Step your right leg back about the distance of one of your leg lengths. Try to keep your back toes pointing straight ahead, but if it’s more comfortable on your knee, let your toes turn out slightly. 3 It’s important that your hips are, as best you can, squarely facing straight ahead. You may need to adjust the distance between your feet, turn your back toes out or bend your front knee to make this possible. 4 Keep both legs nearly straight without locking your knees. You can bend your front knee if needed. 5 Press through your front big toe and your back heel. 6 Press down with your hands on your hips. Breathe in as you…

SNUBBED NO MORE LIKE MANY AUCKLANDERS, I have been guilty of snubbing Kaimai Mamaku Forest Park in the Bay of Plenty for grander things further south. That changed recently when a couple of friends and I spent a long weekend traversing the range along the North-South Track. In true backpacker style, we used Intercity buses to avoid a long car shuttle at each end. it took us 71 hours to make our way from Lower Kaimai to Paeroa. It was great tramping and most of the track is well marked, thanks to the volunteer hours being poured in by local clubs. One great thing about the North-South Track is the variety. Every couple of hours the nature of the bush changes completely. From lush rain forest to mamaku stands and…

Both World Wars had a significant impact on the lives of trampers, hunters and mountaineers. Some left home, never to return. Others survived the war, but came back traumatised. With ANZAC day on April 25, it’s appropriate to look at mountains that serve as war memorials. A number of significant New Zealand mountaineers lost their lives in the First World War, some of whom were commemorated by the naming of a mountain or peak. The highest of these is Girdlestone (2658m), the southernmost of Mt Ruapehu’s several summits. It’s named after Hubert Girdlestone, a pioneer of the Tararua Range, who died on the Western Front when a piece of shrapnel pierced his heart while he lay sleeping. Other prominent mountaineers who lost their lives were Jim Dennistoun, and Arthur Talbot.…

Here’s a dangerous question to ask in this magazine. What’s the use of wilderness? Settle down. I’m on your side. I used to tramp the backblocks before I grew a dodgy back, a wonky knee, a tricky hip and a dicky ticker. But suppose someone asks you that question – probably someone for whom wilderness is that stretch between front door and car door. How would you answer? I only ask because recently, at a rather snooty dinner party, I mentioned I liked tramping. One terribly fashionable person exclaimed, “But what’s the point of it?” Another added “Aren’t you bored?” Otago writer and fisherman/tramper Brian Turner probably has the best response. Wilderness is useful because it’s not useful. It reminds us that measuring everything by the profit or utility it…

Copper Spur UL Tent, 1 Person RRP $749.99 These full-featured, ultralight backpacking shelters are truly easy to pack, set-up and inhabit. Single-door, single-vestibule, 3-season, free standing, ultralight backpacking tent. Packed Weight: 1.13kg Packed Size: 11.4 x 41.9cm Copper Spur UL Tent, 2 Person RRP $799.99 These full-featured, ultralight backpacking shelters are truly easy to pack, set-up and inhabit. Dual doors, twin vestibules, 3-season, free standing, ultralight backpacking tent. Packed Weight: 1.42kg Packed Size: 13.9 x 44.4cm Copper Spur UL MtnGlo Tent, 2 Person RRP $879.99 MtnGLO® LED lights illuminate the interior with enough light to sort gear, play cards, and read without being blinded by a single bright light—with almost no added weight! Packed Weight: 1.47kg Packed Size: 14 x 44cm Air Core Insulated Pad, Regular RRP $219.99 Air Core…

The Rimutaka Range is the most accessible high country on offer to Wellingtonians and, while it might not be the loftiest, the range has a rugged Tararua-like aspect to it. With Mt Matthews, 941m, the highest point, even on its summit you don’t breach the tree line, which is normally around 950m. But you still get a lovely view through the moss-draped beech trees of the south coast and the Wairarapa. There are also views to be enjoyed en route. From South Saddle, at 545m, and between the valley walls, you can see Palliser Bay to the south and an expansive northward panorama. But it’s not just the views that make Mt Matthews worth a visit. Despite its close proximity to Wellington, beyond the Turere Bridge it’s still a rugged…

When Captain Cook sought refuge in the Bay of Islands in 1769 he was entranced by the 800km of sheltered bays and inlets. He saw it as a bay of abundance, offering ‘every kind of refreshment’. Today, the bay is well known as a holiday destination for boaties, divers, fishing enthusiasts and those just wanting to chill. Its glistening, sheltered waters, relative proximity to Auckland (3.5hr), and rich history make it a place packed with visitors in summer. But locals say the silly season lasts just six weeks – a bizarrely short time given the warm climate (the average high in April is 20°C and, even in the depths of winter, temperatures stay above 15°C). Those wishing to stretch their legs on a weekend trip here are spoilt for choice.…

PROFILE Makes 10-12 squares Prep time 10min Cook time 15-20min Cost $8–$10 INGREDIENTS 1 cup sunflower seeds2 tbsp chia seeds3 cloves garlic, crushed1 tsp soy sauce1 tsp smoked paprika1 tsp turmeric½ tsp rock salt1-4 tbsp water METHOD Preheat oven to 160›C. In a food processor, grind sunflower and chia seeds until they resemble coarse, grainy flour. Add crushed garlic, soy sauce, paprika, turmeric and salt, and pulse to mix through. Slowly add water one tablespoon at a time (you may not need all of it) until mixture starts to form a ball. Rollout mixture between two sheets of baking paper until it’s about 5mm thick. Remove top sheet of paper and slide bottom sheet with mixture onto a baking tray and score into squares with a knife. Bake for 10-15min…

SEND YOUR PIX Get your photo published here to receive a set of four Light My Fire Sporks – one for you and three for your friends! Learn more about Spork at ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz…

If patience is a virtue, then Mark Nee-son and his team at the Walking Access Commission (WAC) must be virtuosos. To become involved in something as potentially tedious as negotiating land access requires staying power of geological proportions. Nothing happens overnight. Like waves wearing down a cliff, the commission slowly permeates an important message into the culture of relevant authorities: that access to the outdoors is part of our heritage – part of who Kiwis are. The required patience can be the most difficult part, explains Mark Neeson, who retired at the end of February from his role as the commission’s first chief executive. “The biggest frustration is the time it takes to achieve results,” says the 65-year-old. “We find there’s a 2-3 year time lag, so cases we started…

Adelaide Tarn is arguably one of the most spectacular settings in the mountains of Aotearoa. The lake-let is cradled in an alpine amphitheatre, surrounded by a series of gnarly peaks named Trident, Douglas and Needle. The effort required to reach this remotest of locations is offset by the jaw-dropping mountain architecture of rock and tussock. Here, the hills reach into the sky at absurd angles; none more so than the Dragons Teeth, just a couple of clicks to the south. The easiest route is from the Aorere Valley, over Boulder Lake Track then up Arena Creek to Green Saddle. From here, a well-cairned route sidles south. This ground trail punches through tight scraps of bush, popping out onto sharp ridges which feature unusually-angled rock tors. Slipping through a rock gut…

To some, it’s a pit stop on the way to Christchurch or the West Coast, after navigating the Otira Gorge or Porter’s Pass. It’s a toilet break, a takeaway coffee. To others, it’s a weekend retreat, where one trades the hum of the city for a quaint, rustic family bach. It’s a fire, red wine and Scrabble. To an increasing number of Te Araroa walkers, it’s a place to send food parcels, their hefty contents to be shouldered and lugged north or south. To about 30-odd people, or 30 odd people (a local joke), the alpine village of Arthur’s Pass is home. Despite being within just two hours’ drive of Christchurch, Arthur’s Pass is a place of extremes. In winter, pipes freeze, cars get stuck and roads close due to…

The route along Robert Ridge to Lake Angelus Hut is one of the busiest tramping highways in the country. My partner and I were drawn by the amazing views over Nelson Lakes National Park but were apprehensive of the impending hubbub. As it turned out, the route offered lots of solitary camping opportunities even in the high season. All it needed was a little planning and basic route finding skills. The first two hours up Pinchgut Track are a steady climb on a perfectly maintained path. The track zigzags in and out of beech forest on the north-west facing slopes of Mt Robert and there are great views of St Arnaud. The crowds thinned considerably once we were up on the ridge. From there it was nice and relatively level…

Mount Peel dominates the distant view from our Timaru living room window and is one we have always wanted to climb. Locally, the mountain is talked about as being three parts, namely Little, Middle and Big. Little is well-known to many visitors to Peel Forest but Middle and Big are less frequently climbed and require greater resolve and fitness. They also fall outside the DOC administered Peel Forest Park and follow a largely unmarked route. There is a short but steep walk up a metal road from the Blandswood Road car park to the start of Deer Spur Track. The walk up Deer Spur is relatively straightforward, and dry conditions meant the track provided good footing and fast travel. There are some steeper sections, but generally the track is well…

Kaikoura is astonishing. Rising behind the township a gaunt 2500m high mountain range almost touches the ocean. The only other place in New Zealand you will find such high mountains so close to the sea is Fiordland. The ranges, ocean currents and depths dramatically influence the climate of this region of Canterbury as well as providing the spectacle that draws many visitors to the once sleepy hollow of Kaikoura. During the summer months, it is a bustling tourist town brimming with activities and excursions for tourists and adventurers, most of them intent on sighting the whales common here throughout the year. Approaching Kaikoura on a fine clear day, of which there are many, you will be drawn by the intensity of light, space, and the sheer spectacle of mountains and…

If you’re setting out into the backcountry for the first time, packing for your trip can be intimidating. You might be asking yourself: How much food do I need? What kind of shoes should I wear? To answer some of these burning questions, Wilderness enlisted seasoned gear guru and packing expert Aaron Whitehead from Adventure Consultants. First of all, “wear a pair of boots that won’t slaughter your feet,” Whitehead urged. A sturdy, well-fitting pair of boots is crucial, he said, but don’t forget to bring a pair of sneakers or sandals to wear when you get to camp. On that note, decent socks are vital. “They make a huge difference. I just bought some new ones recently and wondered why I hadn’t changed my old ones sooner.” Make sure…

VAUDE MOST SUSTAINABLE German outdoor clothing and equipment company Vaude has been voted that country’s most sustainable brand. The prestigious award is endorsed by the federal government and is under the patronage of Chancellor Angela Merkel. Vaude was the winner in 2015 in recognition of the company’s commitment to a sustainable corporate philosophy through all its business segments. Vaude has been following such a path since 2010 and integrates sustainable practices in such areas as textile choices, product life cycles, a carbon emission footprint for its Tettnang headquarters and employee work-life balance, with its own employee child-care centre. It operates under industry standards such as bluesign – for textile manufacture – and Green Shape – Vaude’s guarantee that its products are made from sustainable materials by resource-conserving processes. Vaude’s CEO,…