Indholdsfortegnelse for June 2018 i Wilderness

I WAS IN A HUT recently with a group of Wilderness contributors. We’d arranged a tramp in the Tararuas and, due to some fairly bad weather, spent much of one afternoon inside Cattle Ridge Hut. Boredom ensued, right? Actually, no. Two of our companions, Shaun Barnett and David Barnes, began recalling tales of incredible adventure. Rivalries in polar exploration that I had never heard before and could have listened to all day (Barnes nearly won TV’s Mastermind by answering questions on the topic). Unfortunately, I didn’t have much to add to the conversation. In my job, I get to read a lot. There are days where I do nothing but read and marvel at the amazing places the readers of this magazine get to, the trips they do and the…

E-BIKES COULD soon be whirring along new shared-use tracks in Tongariro National Park after the Conservation Authority approved a change to the park plan. Amendments made to the park plan also allowed for three new shared use tracks, and possibly a fourth track which would finally complete the Round the Mountain Track. The new tracks include a trail from Waitonga Falls, below Turoa ski field, through to Ohakune; an 11km loop track from Ohakune Mountain Road to Horopito; and a 600m section of track that completes a trail from Horopito to National Park village. A fourth track, which would link the Round the Mountain Track via Turoa ski field, has also been proposed. Currently, completing the track requires 3.5km of road walking. The new plan means e-bikes will now be…

SHIFTING TO A NEW CITY is never easy, especially when you’re a tramper and the city is Hamilton. In 1993, I’d been living on the West Coast when I landed a job working for the Department of Conservation in the Waikato Conservancy. Bruce Postill was the field centre manager for the Hamilton area and he took me under his wing, arranged a flat for me, gave me some of his furniture, and provided encouragement as I started my first full-time job. It wasn’t long before we began tramping together – something we’ve been doing now for 24 years, usually an annual trip, despite the fact we’ve lived in different cities since I left Hamilton in 1997. Mostly our trips last three to five days, usually on tracks, but there’s always…

NEW ZEALAND straddles two continental plates and forms part of the ‘Pacific Rim of Fire’, where volcanoes abound, eruptions and earthquakes are common, and geothermal activity ensures the landscape is in a constant state of flux. While the South Island features only extinct volcanoes, like those at Mt Somers and Banks Peninsula (now long dead), the North Island has several live or dormant volcanoes. Here are three famous ones. 1- Whakaari/White Island, Bay of Plenty Whakaari has the distinction of being Aotearoa’s most active volcano, and steam issuing from the crater often obscures views of the island from the Bay of Plenty coast. Interestingly, the island was exploited for its sulphur during the early 20th century, but a landslide in 1914 killed 10 miners. One of the miners once described…

THERE IS NOTHING worse than sitting at a desk in Wellington looking out over the sun-drenched Tararua Range and not being able to lace your boots until the weekend. Unable to hold off, friends and I decided to opt for a midweek outing to Kapakapanui Hut via an old possumer’s hut. We left early on a Tuesday and headed for Ngatiawa Road end. Kapakapanui Hut is on a lovely loop track, and we decided to take the slightly longer side of the loop that evening. The track ambles along farmland where lots of blackberries grow. Initially, there is a number of river crossings, followed by quite a steep ascent out of the river. About two-thirds of the way up, just off the track, is an unused possumer’s hut. The hut…

WITH FIORDLAND National Park to the west and Aspiring National Park to the north, the Eyre Mountains are a rarely-visited gem. While the park lacks the spectacular grandeur of its more popular neighbours, it has an excellent network of huts, sprawling open country and drier weather. A weekend trip up the Mataura River to historic Beech Hut makes an excellent midwinter tramp, remaining low enough to avoid too much slushy snow travel. A bony vehicle track allows 4WD access five kilometres up the river to where a large slip put an end to motorised transport and forced us to continue on foot with the snow-capped Mataura Valley stretching out ahead. An easy hour’s walk up the riverbed, with some icy river crossings, brought us to Cowshed Hut, a lovely hut…

IN A WORLD of ever-expanding mobile coverage, coupled with the expectation that you’ll share photos of your latest tramp on social media immediately afterwards, it’s easy to find yourself adding various expensive electronic items to your pack. Here’s how to keep them in good working order. Keep them dry It sounds so simple, but I’ve inadvertently drowned two cameras and a phone on tramps. For peace of mind, use a waterproof phone case and carry other electronic devices inside a dry bag (or plastic snaplock) and bury it deep inside your pack. Don’t assume the outside pocket of your raincoat is fully waterproof – the seams and zip can be weak points, so store your gear in an internal pocket instead. Minimise exposure to dust and grime Dust is the…

Most of the world’s down comes from China, where feathers are collected as a by-product of the meat industry. Once birds are slaughtered for food, their feathers are removed and cleaned for use in products such as clothing and bedding. Some companies claim to only use down which can be traced from farm to feather. Patagonia uses what it calls the ‘Traceable Down’ method, and The North Face, Arc’teryx, Outdoor Research and Montane partner with Allied Feather and Down, which follows the Responsible Down Standard, auditing each step of their supply chain to ensure animal welfare. Macpac and One Planet use the International Down and Feather Laboratory to audit their down and assure it is ethically-sourced. Cactus Outdoor’s down is ethically harvested from Germany, while Earth Sea Sky and Marmot…

1 Copland Track Kiwi partnership Hinetamatea Valley, also called the Copland, is of huge significance to the local Makaawhio, a hapu of Ngai Tahu. Greater iwi involvement in management could take the form of a commercial venture based around Welcome Flat Hut. DOC records show 5500 people walk the Copland Track each year; about half from overseas, and it is popular with school groups as an introductory tramping experience. 2 New two day walk over Mt Fox A possible private/public partnership to develop a two-day circuit, including a new hut and taking in Mt Fox and Mill Creek, near Fox village. Mt Fox is already a popular, albeit it staunch, day trip. According to Costello, the summit is one of the most amazing viewpoints around. He should know, having carried…

1 Blank on the Map, Eric Shipton Shipton and Bill Tilman lead a team exploring and mapping unknown parts of the Karakoram. This is a descriptive book with which to enjoy depths of travel and discovery. 2 Endurance, Alfred Lansing The best-written story of the epic tale of courage and survival after Shackleton’s ship was crushed in the ice on Antarctica. It’s one of the most enthralling stories in the history of polar exploration. 3 Mostly Mischief, H.W Tilman Bill Tilman was one of the 20th century’s greatest explorers. After a long career in mountain travel, he embarked on sailing journeys to islands at high latitudes north and south, and made a number of first ascents. This book covers four major expeditions replete with close-calls and near disasters. His dry…

That’s the spirit It was wonderful to experience such a positive caring atmosphere at Spear-grass Hut in Nelson Lakes National Park over Easter weekend. Because you cannot book a bed in the 16-bunk hut, it is a case of first in, first served. When I arrived with my son and granddaughter, there were three beds left so we said we would use two beds between us. Then another couple arrived and they said there was someone else coming and that they could have the last bed. Then another couple and a family of six arrived and so with some sharing of bed rolls and three tents, and some respectful negotiations, everyone was happy. I haven't laughed so much in my 40-year tramping experience as I did watching three young boys…

A summary of stories published at wildernessmag.co.nz 7 TIPS ON HOW TO ETHICALLY FOSSICK FOR GREENSTONE Chantal Tumahai from Ngāi Tahu reveals the secrets to finding New Zealand pounamu. “I grew up in a family of traditional Māori pounamu fossickers,” Tumahai says. In 1997, the tribe became the legal owner and guardian (kaitiaki) of all New Zealand pounamu. Tumahai explains: “Anyone is welcome to fossick for pounamu – provided they follow a couple of simple rules about where and how to find it.” DIRTY BOOTS IN WAITAKERES COULD MEAN A PRISON SENTENCE All of the major tracks in the Waitakere Ranges are now closed in a bid to save kauri from dieback disease, and trampers who break the rules face fines of $50,000 and a three-month prison sentence. Just 23…

DEEP IN WHANGANUI National Park, spanning the Mangapurua Stream, sits a 40m-long arch bridge. Though built to last, the bridge has only ever supported one vehicle. Today, trampers’ boots tread its weathered concrete surface. The simplest way to get there requires a 40-minute jet boat ride from the village of Pipiriki, some 24km to the south. The ride, through sheer, fern-clad cliffs on one of the most spectacular stretches of New Zealand’s longest navigable river, is an event in itself. Mangapurua Landing, in the middle reaches of the river, gives access to a pleasant 2.5km stroll above the Mangapurua Stream. The bridge appears suddenly, first viewed through a clearing in the dense bush. The structure is a striking visual metaphor for the plight of those it was designed to help.…

CRUNCH, CRUNCH, “AHHH!” We’re hopping from one tussock marshmallow to another as we cross Styx Saddle and every third hop or so sees one of us plunging through the crust into knee-deep snow. It’s mid-winter and freezing, but there’s no place I’d rather be. We’re on day three of a loop tramp up the Arahura River and down the Styx River to the bottom end of Lake Kaniere. The Hokitika catchment, which includes the Styx, Kokatahi, Toaroha, Mungo, Hokitika and Whitcombe rivers, has an excellent track and hut network. All the main rivers are tracked and, with at least 27 huts, the area has one of the highest concentrations of backcountry accommodation in New Zealand. While the larger six to 10 bunk huts are in the more accessible valleys, there…

IN 1856, a gold rush was sparked in the Aorere Valley when a couple of settlers discovered a small amount of gold. More than two thousand men streamed into the ‘tent city’ of Gibbstown over the next few years and headed up the valley. Seven hotels were quickly built, and such was the expectation of fortune that the bay, previously known as Murderers’ Bay and Massacre Bay, was re-named Golden Bay. Gibbstown was to make way for a city called Collingwood, most of which was never built. The Aorere Goldfields Track winds its way through the hillsides where miners worked and there are now remnants from the gold mining era. The track first crosses a scrubby area called Druggans Flat and almost immediately passes a large pile of rocks, marked…

Length If you are looking for an axe to take your tramping above the snowline, a shaft between 60-70cm should be fine. Shorter axes can be used, but are generally designed for more technical climbing. Reverse or classic curved pick? If you’re mainly angling up snow slopes, then a classic curve is more comfortable under your hand. If you are swinging your axe into alpine or water ice, get a reverse pick. SHAFT TYPES A straight or slightly curved shaft is best for tramping and basic climbing – the curve improves hand clearance and emphasises the swing when using the pick. Heavily curved shafts tend to be for specialised use and are not suited to general climbing. Leashes A leash will prevent a dropped axe – it will happen –…

THE WHITE SPIDER Chosen by Dave McKinley, Alpine Guides guiding director THE WHITE SPIDER was the first book climber and guide Dave McKinley read about mountaineering. It helped inspire a lifetime of alpine exploration. “It sticks in my mind,” Mc-Kinley says. “My dad was a mountain rescue team leader, and when I was about 11 he stuck this book in my hand and said ‘read this boy’. “It’s got all of the elements of a great mountaineering book: tragedy, triumph, cooperation.” The author, Heinrich Harrer is best known for his book Seven Years in Tibet, in which he writes about fleeing India during the Second World War, crossing the Himalayas into Tibet where he taught the Dalai Lama, a child at the time. The book was turned into a film…

GET YOUR PHOTO PUBLISHED HERE TO RECEIVE A TUB OF STORM LEATHER CREAM TO WATERPROOF, CONDITION AND SHINE YOUR TRAMPING BOOTS. Learn more about Storm at ampro.co.nz . Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz…

HIGH ABOVE the Dart River, among the ranges of Mt Aspiring National Park, sits an alpine lake with an unrivalled sense of majesty and grandeur. While Lake Unknown might live up to its name for many, once you are familiar with it, have studied the topo map, searched out routes and looked for ways through the tight contours surrounding it, there’s no denying the hold it will have over you. You will want to stand on its shores. Many have tried and failed to get to this lake. From the north, there’s a very steep route through silver beech forest from the Beans Burn to the outlet, where a powerful flow of water cascades over a 150m waterfall. I know of trampers who have used this route – and I…

EVEN THOUGH Mt Oxford lies 50km from Christchurch, it can be viewed from many places in the city – it looms in front of the higher summits to the west like a large dumpling, its rounded summit dropping rapidly to steep-sided spurs and into heavily forested lowlands. This close to the city, it’s a popular day hike at any time of year, and with an excellent network of tracks available there is plenty to suit all ages and abilities. For me, a trip to the summit is a trip I like to do at least every couple of years, to check out the amazing view and to glide through the long avenues of beech forest that cloak the mountain’s southern aspects. At 1364m, Oxford is a modest summit, but when…

FROM THE BARREN flanks of Mt Ruapehu to an idyllic forest-clad valley, the Whakapapaiti Valley Track traverses an interesting variety of terrain in a day. The trail starts on the Round the Mountain Track at 1550m on Bruce Road and finishes at Whakapapa Village. With a little bit of road walking, it can be turned into a fantastic loop track. Starting from the car park, near Scoria Flat, the trail heads through a moonscape of volcanic rock marked by snow poles. It is eyes-to-the-trail walking to pick your way through boulders of every size. But it’s worth stopping now and then to take in the view, with Mt Ngauruhoe, Mt Tongariro, and the smaller volcanic cones of Pukeonake and Pihanga all lining up into the distance. After about 20 minutes,…

Black Diamond Technician $179.99 A four-season rock and ice harness, quick-drying, five gear loops, four ice clipper slots, adjustable leg loops, padded waist and leg loops. 377g. www.southernapproach.co.nz Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate $29.99 Black Diamond’s largest belay and rappel locker with snag-free keylock nose, Munter Hitch compatible, one-hand operation. 85g. www.southernapproach.co.nz Beal Rando Walking Rope Golden Dry 8mm x 30M $149.99 High level walking and glacier crossing rope for easy snow slopes, resistant to ice and water, reduced weight gain when wet, three-year guarantee. 37g/metre. www.southernapproach.co.nz Roca Dominator 9.2 x 60m Dry Rope $399.95 Sport climbing rope for single and double rope use, hydrophobic treatment limits water absorption, Full Dry treatment repels ice, dust and sand from penetrating filaments. 56g/m. www.gearshop.co.nz Roca Monkey SPD 9.0mm x 60m Full Dry $399.99…

Insulation Once bulky and non-compressible, synthetic insulation has come a long way and now offers similar performance to down insulation. At the same time, down is being treated with hydrophobic coatings which prevent it from clumping so it dries more quickly and can still perform, sub-optimally, when wet. Overall, down still offers superior warmth to weight. When choosing a down insulated jacket, take note of the loft, or fill power (the volume that one ounce of down fills when full of air) – it is usually measured between 500 and 800: the higher the number, the greater the warmth with less fill required to achieve it. Baffles Down jackets use baffles to keep the fill from moving around. Some synthetic garments also use baffles as well as other innovative techniques…