Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2016 i Wilderness

Heavy snowfall from winter storms has done a number on Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tãne Conservation Park. Several tracks were damaged, making access to tracks and huts difficult. DOC has 16 current alerts for the East Coast park, most of which refer to sections of tracks that have been washed away or blocked by treefall. Kohu Kohiti, a DOC ranger from the Whirinaki district, said the weather this year has been the worst experienced in 10 years. “It’s brought down a whole heap of trees, mainly in our backcountry section,” Kohiti said, adding that there are also several areas of washout. Most of the tracks are still open despite the damage, but he says travel time is now increased by at least a couple hours on most tracks to negotiate the treefall…

The new, improved, and recently renamed Te Ara Pataka walkway is being celebrated in conjunction with a centenary event acknowledging the track’s pioneer, Harry Ell. On November 26, the Rod Donald Trust and DOC will celebrate the formal opening of the walkway with Ell’s granddaughter, Paula Jameson as the keynote speaker. Ell was a Christchurch conservationist who built the Sign of the Packhorse Hut in 1916 as a rest house on the proposed Summit Road, a recreational route from Christchurch to Akaroa along the ridge of Banks Peninsula. In 2013, the trust teamed up with DOC to give the Summit Walkway a facelift by building Rod Donald Hut and upgrading the tracks with markers and signage. The track, was also renamed Te Ara Pataka in order to reflect the cultural…

Along the scenic coastal highway linking Greymouth and Westport lies some of the most spectacular ocean, river, forest and mountain scenery to be found anywhere in New Zealand. This is the Paparoa Range and national park, extending from the Buller River, just south of Westport to the Grey River, which flows to the sea at Greymouth. The geography here isolates the ranges from the Southern Alps and provides a unique climate that is more mild than would normally be expected at this latitude. The warm Westland Current, originating in the Coral Sea, flows close to the coast and provides an almost frost-free winter and a subtropical environment. This, together with intense rainfall and high sunshine hours, nurtures the nikau palms and tree ferns that grow in profusion throughout the seaward…

I stood there for a while, on the edge of a massive scree slope far above the raging Timaru River, trying to muster up enough courage to take the next step. The track in front was barely wider than my feet, a thin slanted line covered with loose rocks. Despite the brisk morning air, sweat dripped down my back. Focusing on every step, I walked slowly, each movement of my body calculated with care. My legs quivered but didn’t give out. I inched my way forward, but didn’t freeze up and I finally made it across. And all the way to Bluff. Last year, I spent five months walking the Te Araroa Trail. It was a life-changing experience. Negotiating the perilous sidle above the Timaru River was one of many…

That screech – like a football rattle going off in a tin – has to be a kaka. In fact, it’s a pair of them, alighting in a beech tree just ahead. “This is all for you guys,” says Maryann Ewers. A gentle rain of bark and beech bits falls as the kaka start prospecting for grubs. We’re halfway through a line of traps set and maintained by the volunteers of Friends of Flora in the east of Kahurangi National Park. It’s going to be a long day: it took two hours and a 400m climb, practically to the summit of Mt Hodder, just to reach the start of this line of DOC 150 traps (downtime Ewers begrudges as “dead walking”), and though there’s only 35 of them, they’ll bring…

With its dramatic views, windswept cliffs, and rugged tracks, Cape Brett Peninsula is an escapist’s dream tramp. Or, for a group of nine-to-fivers from Auckland, it’s the perfect getaway for the weekend warrior. The launching point for this Northland track is Te Rawhiti, just 30km from Russell. Many do the tramp in one of two ways; either walk in and get a water taxi back, or the opposite – which is more popular – taxi in and walk back with lighter packs. We opted for the former. Hardier trampers will walk both ways, a notion that few in our group felt was necessary. The night before we started, we piled into the Kaingahoa Marae’s 100-year-old school house in Rawhiti, a modest structure with a fully-equipped kitchen, large sitting room, and…

The Adams Wilderness Area straddles the Main Divide of the central Southern Alps. It’s a place of dense rainforests, fearsome gorges, high glaciated plateaus and some of the country’s most formidable mountains. I always think of the Adams Wilderness Area as John Pascoe country. During the 1930s, the Canterbury mountaineer made his name by leading expeditions to the area and ascending some of its most testing peaks. In 1934, he, Gavin Malcolmson and Priestley Thomson claimed the first ascent of Mt Evans, then the highest unclimbed peak in the Southern Alps. Pascoe and his companions also bestowed the names ‘Garden of Eden’ and ‘Garden of Allah’ on the two most significant ice plateaus, and the biblical theme continued with other names like the Devils Backbone, Satan Saddle, Eves Rib and…

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PURPLE IS HERE TO STAY I BELIEVE THE innovations in lightweight clothing and equipment (‘From purple fleece to pimped GPS’, October 2016) that took place in the 1990s made tramping accessible to a far greater number of people. There was no longer a need to keep those expensive, heavy boots in the cupboard until their next outing or hide away that heavy ugly ‘sweaty’ waterproof until it was needed out on the hills with the serious walkers. The new clothing, boots and equipment were comfortable, easy to wear, stylish, colourful and fashionable. They could be worn on a regular basis. Now, 20 years later, fleece, waterproof jackets, down jackets and hiking shoes are accepted as standard everyday dress for all. Now, it is not only the serious trampers who explore…

It was a shark bite that changed Sam Judd’s life. An avid surfer, he was living in South America, fixing up surfboards and living the good life on San Cristóbal Island in the Galapagos. In December 2007, he was out surfing when a tiger shark sunk its teeth into his upper right thigh. He was evacuated to Quito, and despite enormous pressure to fly home, he stayed. Judd says he knew that if he didn’t force himself to go back to the island and face the wave again, he might never get back on a board. Prior to his brush with death, Judd had been part of a big beach clean-up that collected 1.6 tonnes of rubbish. After the accident, he was asked to help organise another trash pick-up, this…

If you’re seeking a feeling of remoteness, without having to lug a heavy pack for days, then the route linking Dundas Ridge and Cattle Ridge in a loop from Putara Road end over two long days could be just the ticket. The loop covers rugged country, with a lot of climbing and descending, plenty of time on the tops and magnificent viewpoints. With four huts along the route, there is the option to slow down and take your time, too. On a weekend dash, the obvious place to overnight is the midway point at Dundas Hut. Your first view of the hut, if coming from 1125m Herepai (doing the loop anti-clockwise) is just before the summit of Pukemoremore, which, at 1474m, is the highest point on the route. From here,…

Not so long ago, the old huts of Kahurangi National Park wore the weariness of decades; their timbers were gaping; floors, rotten. One was leaning like a miner on moonshine. Now they are standing strong. But the new, exterior timber cladding bears the random cuts of hand-wielded tools. The corrugated iron roofs are rusty; the fireplaces look newly made and 100 years old; they still breathe woodsmoke and hunters’ tales. It seems a bush-builder has stepped in from the 1930s because there is no sign of a modern restoration – no perfectly machined edges, no barcode from a hardware store. The work is new; the skills are old. Here, a bush-builder describes how to clad a hut the old way: “Look for a tree, about two-foot diameter – you want…

From an early age, Craig Potton had a green thumb. Like many other kids his age, he spent every weekend outside. He surfed. He climbed. He tramped. But he also worried. Potton’s intense love for the wilderness was plagued with pangs of fear for its protection. “I, sadly, had to acknowledge that we were destroying nature,” he says. So began his lifelong passion for conservation. Along with environmental activism, Potton is well-known for his photography. He also has a successful publishing company, and is considered one of the most prominent voices in conservation today. But, he still worries. Today’s version of outdoor recreation doesn’t sit well with him. Gone are the days of quiet walks in the woods; these days, Potton cringes when he sees the way young adventure sports…

A20-minute boat ride from the marina at Paremata was all it took to reach Mana Island. We skimmed across the sea, the houses behind us faded away and the island came into sharper focus. The charter boat drew up close to the stony beach and the crew put out a gangway so we could walk straight onto the beach. No wet feet. Our biosecurity checks were done at home and again at the marina – we’d made sure our boots were clean, any velcro free of seeds and that our packs weren’t home to rodents. We crunched up past the historic woolshed, a reminder that the island was farmed up until the 1980s. Near the landing area, a flat section of the island includes the ranger’s house and other buildings…

1. Plan ahead and prepare “Think about where you’re going and what your food needs might be,” he says. “When you go to get your food, consider, ‘what are the most important things for me to do so I can have an ethical tramping trip?’.” North says that includes buying food with minimal packaging, and to aim to buy from local companies when possible. One way to minimise waste is to buy food from the bulk sections of the grocery store, North suggests. 2. Travel and camp on durable ground When traveling through the backcountry, stick to tracks as often as possible in order to prevent additional erosion. Wet tracks are easily damaged, so avoid travelling by bike or in large groups in such conditions. 3. Dispose of waste properly…

ACCESS AND VESTIBULES Tunnel tents have a single door while domes generally have two. The fly creates vestibule storage directly outside the door. GUY POINTS Guylines help maintain tent shape in adverse weather. There should be multiple guy points – one or two at each corner and on the sides. VENTILATION Mesh inners work with vents on the fly to reduce condensation and regulate temperature. Fly vents should be positioned for maximum airflow without the risk of rain blowing inside. Most vestibule doors unzip from top and bottom to create airflow when needed. FLOOR Tub floors will keep water and snow out of the tent. Like the tent’s fly, floors are waterhead rated, generally between 2000mm and 10,000mm. Lighter floors are nice to carry but can allow seepage in very…

The Summit Road Society of Canterbury has just purchased a 233ha farm in the Port Hills with the aim of turning it into a public park with walking and mountain biking tracks. The purchase of the farm was made possible thanks to a large donation by the society’s president. Bill Woods gave $600,000 to help secure the Tussock Hill Farm, which he says is one of the largest pieces of private land in the Port Hills region. “We have intentions to turn it back into its natural state” Woods said, adding that they’ll be improving the tussock and other vegetation on the property, and will conduct plantings near streams to improve the water quality and prevent further erosion. Woods’ donation helped round out the $1.8m parcel of land, which he…

The male rifleman (titi pounamu), at a mere 6g in weight, claims the title of being New Zealand’s smallest bird. Little wonder they are difficult to spot – compounded by the fact they spend most of their time fairly high up in the canopy foraging for a large variety of small invertebrates, particularly beetles, spiders, moths and caterpillars. Found predominantly in mature, higher altitude forests – especially beech, kauri, kamahi and podocarp – the South Island rifleman populations are found throughout forests of the Main Divide but are less common in the east of the island. The North Island rifleman survives as only three geographically isolated populations, all situated north of the Kaimai Range. One is in Warawara Forest in Northland, one on Little Barrier Island and the third on…

The six-bunk John Reid Hut lies on a south-facing bench, at the bush edge on the flanks of the spectacular Arthur Range in Kahurangi National Park. At an altitude of 1250m, it has an unobstructed view of what I consider to be one of the best mountain panoramas in New Zealand. This view encompasses much of the Wangapeka catchment and, notably, the Mt Owen Massif – a stunning assortment of grey summits jutting above the Rolling River Valley like a series of gun turrets, primed and ready to fire. Most of the routes in are over well-marked and tracked ridges. However, that’s not to say the journey is easy; it’s a full-on climb from the valley floor to the bush edge, requiring around 1000m of ascent. CHUMMIES TRACK This is…

The Historic Kill Devil Pack Track gives trampers a rare opportunity to do a four-day walk with minimal evidence of modern interference, amid traces of the gold mining days. The track runs from Uruwhenua to Anatoki, both in Golden Bay – or vice versa. From Uruwhenua, it’s a long, uphill zigzag for about three hours with an ever-expanding view of the Takaka Valley. Midday in summer, there is limited shade so take plenty of water. Once on the ridgeline, the track is an easy lope with far-reaching views into the Salisbury Valley – it is mountain drama of steep valleys to the Stanley River below. After an hour along the ridge, the track reaches the turn-off to Tin Hut. Another hour and it reaches the turn-off to Riordans Hut, 15…

In the New Zealand backcountry there have been several notorious plane crashes. Sometimes the wreckage was removed; sometimes it is still there waiting for an adventurous tramper to discover and then reflect on how the aircraft came to grief. Our party visited the lofty heights of Johnston Peak (1647m) to search for the remains of ZK-AFE, the first commercial airline disaster in New Zealand. We had made the journey from Nelson in good time, and forded Top Valley Stream in bare feet. We ascended the logging road for an hour to reach the top car park. After hauling ourselves up an unforgivingly steep spur, the track through beech forest eventually evened out as we picked our way along a knife-edge ridgeline towards Richmond Saddle Hut. Light rain fell as we…

Drinking in the views as we wandered up the Ahuriri Valley on a crisp clear day, I commented that many trampers say ‘just a valley walk’ in a pejorative way, and those that see it that way were missing days and places like this. We’d bailed out of a three-day tops trip in Fiordland on the back of a foul forecast, and scouted around for a trip that offered reasonable weather prospects. Fresh snow followed by warm temperatures suggested that going high would at best mean snow wading and at worst avalanche hazard. So there we were, valley walking, lapping it up in the Ahuriri, albeit for just two days. We’d driven to Ahuriri Base Hut on Friday night. The DOC sign at Birchwood homestead said 4WD vehicles only, but…

A number of yoga poses can help build core strength and arm strength. Core strength includes all the muscles surrounding your mid-section that help stabilise your back. The side plank pose offers these benefits and it's fun! 1 Start sitting on your right hip. Bring your right hand to the floor underneath your shoulder. Spread out and point your fingers straight ahead. Press through your fingers and the top of the palm of your hand in order to protect your wrist. 2 Step your left foot in front of you with your toes pointing to the left side. Your left hand can rest on your left knee. 3 Keep your lower right leg straight. Flex your right toes towards you. 4 Press down through your right hand, your left foot…

If you are looking for variety and some really delicious flavours, then try these hot-smoked mussel fritters on your next weekend tramp. They make an excellent quick lunch, or a more substantial main meal with a side of rice, pasta or couscous. Vacuum-packed smoked mussels can be found in most supermarkets. In cool conditions, they keep well for several days unopened. PROFILE Serves 4 (12 medium fritters) Weight 500g INGREDIENTS 1 cup chickpea flour 1 cup plain flour 1 tsp Thai herbs Salt and pepper 150g manuka smoked mussels ½ spring onion (sliced) ¼ cup grated carrot 20ml rice bran oil ½ cup sweet chilli sauce (optional) AT HOME Pack into plastic bags and label. Keep the pasta separate. METHOD At home: Combine all the dry ingredients in a plastic…

FLY Compared to three season tents, a heavier ripstop fabric is used to handle strong winds and snow-loading. A silicone coating raises the waterhead (hydrostatic pressure) rating. The vestibule should be large enough to store all gear away from the elements. GUYLINES Multiple guyline attachments will be added to provide extra stability. SIZE Choose a tent for the size of your party – four season tents are heavy and due to the environment they are used in, dead space is wasted space. FLOOR A tub floor will keep rising water at bay and will have a waterhead rating of up to 10,000mm to prevent any seepage. Lower-rated floors may require a groundsheet. VENTILATION Small windows and vents with Velcro or zip closure will allow condensation-reducing airflow. When possible, a through-breeze…