Indholdsfortegnelse for August 2015 i Wine Spectator

Visit www.winespectator.com/083115 to find links to all of the following resources. Free resources for all of our WineSpectator.com readers: RESTAURANT SEARCH The complete 2015 Restaurant Award listings are searchable in our online database. Find the perfect dining spot by location, award level, wine strengths, cuisine type and more. SOMMELIER TALKS Meet the people behind the world’s great wine lists: Get pairing advice and find out which wines excite them most. 2015 VIDEO CONTEST Creative with a video camera? Submit your shorts to Wine Spectator’s Annual Video Contest and you could win great prizes. Our editors will select the finalists and post them on WineSpectator.com, where viewers can vote for the winning video. Entry deadline is Sept. 7. Check out the rules and previous years’ finalists online. MOBILE-FRIENDLY WINE SPECTATOR VIDEO…

A Note From Napa It was an honor to be included with so many of my favorite Napa Valley destinations in your recent Napa Valley travel article (“Choose Your Own Adventure,” June 15). It was a wonderful way to show your readers a more eclectic side of Napa Valley. You definitely got it right; there is a different tasting experience, restaurant and activity for any type of wine lover. We are lucky to live in this beautiful place. Emma Swain CEO, St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery Napa, Calif. Arsenic Analysis I just read Ben O’Donnell’s article “Wineries Fight Arsenic Lawsuit Claims” in the June 15 issue. As a chemical engineer, I was aware that arsenic is a naturally occurring element in the air, soil, foods and water. I found…

Gillian Sciaretta has been named director of Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards program. She is charged with enhancing the reach and authority of the wine list awards, the gold standard for the world’s top restaurant wine programs. “This step will help us take our Restaurant Awards program to the next level,” said Marvin R. Shanken, editor and publisher of Wine Spectator. “Gillian has the skills and the passion to build on our 30 years of success.” Sciaretta, 30, a graduate of Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration, joined Wine Spectator in 2012. Currently associate tasting coordinator, she began working with the awards program in 2013. “I am very excited to work on such an amazing program,” Sciaretta said. “The world of restaurants and wine is more dynamic than ever, and I…

This year’s glitzy Auction Napa Valley combined great wines and a performance by Grammy winner John Legend to keep its spot as America’s top charity wine auction. The four-day event by Napa Valley Vintners (NVV), now in its 35th year, raised $15.8 million for local nonprofits focused on community health and children’s education. The live bidding on June 6 fetched $13.3 million. At $850,000, the top individual lot of the evening was dinner and a private concert for 30 at the home of Raymond proprietor Jean-Charles Boisset and his wife, Gina Gallo, along with signed bottles of the inaugural Legend Vineyard Exclusives, a new collaboration between Legend and Raymond. Another lot, tripled so that three high bidders could win, was the auction’s all-time top seller, bringing in $2.4 million. Opus…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 Turley Petite Syrah Paso Robles Pesenti Vineyard 2012 $35 CALIFORNIA An intriguing mix of sandalwood, frankincense, candied ginger and espresso flavors wrap around a dark core of huckleberry, blackberry and boysenberry. COLLECTIBLE 95 Azelia Barolo Margheria 2011 $80 ITALY Sweet, vibrant and firmly structured, this shows woodsy aromas of wild herbs, tobacco and tar, with a core of cherry on the palate. SMART BUY 91 Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley Dry 2014 $17 AUSTRALIA Taut, sleek, polished and lively, this spicy white offers black and white pepper, floral and citrus flavors. BEST VALUE 87 Les Jamelles Chardonnay Pays d’Oc 2013 $10 FRANCE Glossy-textured, with medium-bodied flavors of apple cobbler, pear and spice matched with beeswax and lanolin undertones. IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE You’ll find 9 classic…

Wine lists are as diverse as wine lovers. Some stick to the classics— Bordeaux, Burgundy, the faithful companions. Others are explorers, looking for adventures in small, obscure regions and from rarely encountered grapes. And some take both approaches, depending on where the best value can be found. The personality of a wine list is shaped by many factors, including the flavors on the menu and the tastes of the wine director. But the general wine culture also has an influence, and today’s culture emphasizes inclusion. This year, the Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards Program has recognized more than 3,600 restaurants, from all over the world, with wine lists that cater to all kinds of wine lovers, from the traditional to the cutting-edge and everywhere in between. The Restaurant Awards program comprises…

Bruce Marder, who helped establish Venice and Santa Monica, Calif., as dining destinations in the 1970s with West Beach Café, Rebecca’s and DC-3, opened Capo in 1998. It was his most ambitious idea, marrying ingredient-driven Italian cuisine with California sensibilities. The menu, executed since the beginning by chef Ricky Moreno, relies on well-sourced ingredients and uncomplicated recipes rooted in Italian cooking. Vegetables sing with freshness and character. Meats and poultry come from producers that value natural growing and processing. A rich steak managed to avoid being sweet or fatty, and a vegetable salad with burrata shone with flavor clarity. Marder discovered fine wine on trips to Europe. Inspired, he compiled a cellar full of older Bordeaux, Napa Cabernet, California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at West Beach Café, then skimmed off…

For years Plumed Horse had the finest wine list in Silicon Valley, winning a Wine Spectator Grand Award in 1987. But the wine program lost focus and dropped to a Best of Award of Excellence before tech entrepreneur Aki Fujimura bought the restaurant, situated on the quiet main street of Saratoga, in 2006. Significantly, the remodeling centered on a two-story, 8,000-bottle glassed-in wine cellar. Sifting through the 15,000 bottles left from the previous collection, new general manager Josh Weeks recalls “a vast amount of wine, but it wasn’t the right wines, the right vintages, the great producers. We wanted to be a Michelin star–quality restaurant, and at the same level with the wine.” Peter Armellino anchored the new team as chef and partner, and his kitchen is one of the…

ABOUT THE AWARD LEVELS To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered. Lists that meet these requirements are judged for one of our three awards. AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2,563 winners Our basic award, for lists that offer a well-chosen selection of quality producers, along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style. Typically these lists offer at least 90 selections. BEST OF AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 973 winners Our second-tier award, created to give special recognition to restaurants that clearly exceed the requirements of the Award of Excellence; many are close to the Grand Award level. These…

93Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $28 NEW ZEALAND Stylish and generous, exhibiting a complex array of flavors, from white grapefruit and lemon curd to candied ginger, lemon verbena, honeysuckle and lime zest. Achieves elegance, power and refreshment in lovely harmony. Drink now. 44,000 cases imported.—M.W. 92Apex Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2012 $30 WASHINGTON Supple, opentextured and generous, with pure currant and blackberry flavors on a deftly balanced frame. Violet nuances linger against powdery tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 2,212 cases made.—H.S. 92Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $22 NEW ZEALAND A smooth, fleshy mix of honeysuckle, ripe melon, dried mango, peach and nectarine flavors, with a squirt of lemon juice. Succulent and complex, offering a whiff of smoky tea and celery leaf notes on the finish.…

ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends 92 Vina Cobos Malbec La Consulta Bramare Rebon Vineyard 2012 $90 Redolent of chocolate mousse, this offers flavors of dark plum, blackberry and cherry tart, filled with plenty of creamy notes. Luscious and spicy midpalate, with a snap of black licorice on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 90 cases imported.—K.M. 92 LTU Malbec Uco Valley 2011 $65 Offers a spicy aroma, with rich flavors of blackberry, dark plum and cherry tart, matched to plenty of toasty notes. Chocolate mousse and Asian spice details flood the finish, supported by medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2021. 600 cases made.—K.M. 91 Altocedro Malbec La Consulta Finca Los Tanos 2012 $35 This dense and rich-tasting red shows brooding flavors of plum tart, dark cherry and Asian spice, featuring plenty…

93 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $28 See Smart Buys, page 149. 92 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $22 See Smart Buys, page 150. 89 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $18 An appealing note of ripe peach complements the core of crisp lemon and lime flavors, with a touch of peppery white flowers. Shows nice focus and persistence on the finish. Drink now. 550,000 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Saint Clair Pinot Noir Marlborough 2013 $20 Starts off with crisp cherry and raspberry flavors that are tangy and refreshing. Grace notes of fresh earth, mineral, spice, gingerbread and black tea crescendo, leaving a complex, velvety finish. Drink now through 2023. 2,000 cases made.—M.W. 88 Framingham Pinot Noir Marlborough 2013 $30 Streaks of earth and mineral run through the core…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Brand Napa Valley Proprietary Blend Napa Valley 2012 $225 Deliciously rich and layered, with seductive mocha- and espresso-laced oak wrapped around a dense core of currant, blackberry, licorice and vanilla flavors, providing torque and finesse. The flavors gain depth and nuance. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2032. 91 cases made.—J.L. 95 Brand Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Brio 2012 $125 An exciting expression of layered Cabernet fruit, with tiers of dense, chewy, rich dark berry and pretty touches of mocha and cedar. Gains depth and focus, ending with a long push that shows hints of mineral and black licorice. Drink now through 2030. 234 cases made.—J.L. 93 Myriad Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Elysian Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard 2012 $150 At…

Pinot Gris 90 Maysara Pinot Gris McMinnville Arsheen Momtazi Vineyard 2014 $16 See Smart Buys, page 151. 90 Silvan Ridge Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2013 $17 Fresh and generous, with effusive pear, melon and floral flavors, lingering with intensity on the fine-grained finish. Drink now through 2017. 1,020 cases made.—H.S. 89 Hawks View Pinot Gris Chehalem Mountains Hawks View Vineyard 2013 $26 Crisp, tangy and somewhat dense for the varietal, this version packs in apricot-accented apple and lime flavors. Lingers well. Drink now. 725 cases made.—H.S. 88 Rainstorm Pinot Gris Oregon 2013 $14 Fresh and tangy, with cantaloupe, citrus and floral flavors on a tight frame, finishing with generosity. Drink now. 11,000 cases made.—H.S. 88 Raptor Ridge Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2014 $20 Light and silky, with pretty pear and…

Summer in America means baseball, and, increasingly, baseball means wine. For a second year, Major League Baseball teams have partnered with wineries to produce an MLB Club Series of bottlings. Last year, seven teams were represented; this year the lineup has grown to 19. Produced by Wine by Design, most of the wines, available through www.mlb.com/wine, cost around $20 a bottle—a decent price for a tailgate wine. Just don’t try to take them into the stadium. Here are some of this season’s new and returning players. NEW YORK YANKEES The Bronx Bombers are again drinking local, off ering a Finger Lakes Riesling from Anthony Road Wine Company. An up-and-coming region like the Finger Lakes makes sense for more than just its proximity: The Yanks are hoping for new stars to…

If you think that cheese ice cream sounds a little weird, think again. Italian cookbooks have featured it for centuries; it’s the most popular ice cream flavor in the Philippines; chef Ferran Adrià, the molecular gastronomy pioneer, made Parmesan ice cream sandwiches one of his signature dishes; and the late, great Charlie Trotter was lauded for his goat cheese ice cream with roasted figs. Ice cream, as it turns out, is among the most intriguing and delicious ingredient applications for our favorite dairy product—a great way to surprise and impress guests at a summer feast. What comes as no surprise in today’s Internet-stoked foodie world is the number of recipes available online, Trotter’s included. I played around with a basic Parmesan recipe and another made with blue cheese, topping off…

He can joke about it now, but Richard Arrowood had an inauspicious beginning in the wine business. While studying chemistry in college, Arrowood asked family friend Adolf Heck, then the owner of Korbel Cellars, for a summer job in the winery laboratory. On his first day of work, Arrowood realized that there had been a misunderstanding. “I had to clean the bathrooms,” Arrowood says, laughing. “He thought I’d said ‘lavatory.’ ” It’s a good story, and Arrowood has plenty of them. These days the veteran vintner is in a reflective mood. To mark his 70th birthday, in December, he and his wife, Alis, have staged a series of retrospective tastings throughout the year to bring together the winemakers and wines Arrowood has worked with over the decades. “It doesn’t seem…

The arrival of winemaker Matt Courtney at Arista Winery in 2012 has taken this Sonoma producer to the next level. In sports, the expression is one player away. It’s the missing ingredient separating good teams from great ones. Some teams do cross the line into greatness, but it’s often difficult to pinpoint the exact moment when things changed. The same is true for wineries. Yet for Arista’s McWilliams brothers—Mark, 37, and Ben, 34—that moment is clear. Both agree that their winery found the missing link in 2012. That was the year they hired Matt Courtney, 44, to oversee their winemaking operations in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. Arista had been around for a decade, yet before Courtney’s arrival the wines had never risen to where they are now. His addition has…

Nestled within the Grand Parça, at the center of the MGM Macau’s indoor courtyard and away from the hustle and bustle of the resort’s casino, Aux Beaux Arts offers the refined atmosphere and casual sophistication of a classic brasserie. Themed to Old World Europe, the restaurant celebrates the traditions and heritage of French gastronomy with a well-executed menu and extensive selection of wines. Aux Beaux Arts’ Paris-inspired cuisine includes tempting options from both land and sea. Buttery escargot ($10) is a signature starter, and meat dishes also evoke French classics, with presentations such as duck leg confit with green peppercorn sauce and potatoes sautéed Lyonnaise-style ($29), and beef tartare served with frites, green salad and toasted baguette ($30). Guests can opt to take their meal in the elegant dining room…

The moment he saw the plate of shrimp scampi leave the kitchen, Marcello Fiorentino told his mother, “We’re in trouble.” It was 1996, and his father had just died, so Fiorentino was helping out in the dining room of his parents’ Italian restaurant in Florida’s West Palm Beach. His mother had recently hired a pair of French chefs to manage the kitchen, and when Fiorentino saw their interpretation of scampi, he knew things needed to change quickly. Within days, he fired the Frenchmen and started cooking good, authentic Italian food himself. He hired his wife, Diane, a bookkeeper at a nearby restaurant, to manage the finances. And he began buying wine—a lot of wine. The wine list Fiorentino inherited offered just 12 reds and 12 whites. “A friend told me,…

95 Clarendon Hills Grenache Clarendon Romas 2009 $75 AUSTRALIA This has terrific presence, with dark berry, cherry and floral flavors on a taut frame, expanding on the finish against nubby tannins that linger expressively and intensely. Best from 2017 through 2021. 500 cases imported.—H.S. 95Clarendon Hills Syrah Clarendon Brookman 2009 $75 AUSTRALIA Dense and sharply focused, with a powerful whoosh of blackberry, rhubarb and guava fruit, shaded by white pepper, licorice and floral notes. The detailed finish keeps up the intensity in this long and complex version. Best from 2017 through 2024. 500 cases imported.—H.S. 95Turley Petite Syrah Paso Robles Pesenti Vineyard 2012 $35 CALIFORNIA Delivers an intriguing mix of sandalwood, frankincense, candied ginger and espresso flavors, wrapped around a deep, dark core of huckleberry, blackberry and boysenberry, with accents…

Burgundy / Chablis 92 Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Clos de Lechet 2012 $40 Razor sharp and clean as a whistle, with lemon, Granny Smith and stone notes fused to the vivid structure. Balanced in a slim way, this stays mouthwatering and minerally on the long aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2026. 800 cases made.—B.S. 90 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis 2012 $28 A steely version, delivering mineral, green apple, lemon and oyster shell aromas and flavors. Stays taut and linear through the long, stone-tinged aftertaste. Drink now through 2022. 300 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot Chablis Mont de Milieu 2012 $40 Fresh, enticing aromas of seashore, ripe apple, melon and citrus give way to a rich texture and firm structure. Turns compact on the long finish, with a tart lemon…

Ordering wine in restaurants can be intimidating. Luckily, we live in a golden age for wine programs, and there’s one simple way to ensure that you’ll drink well every time: Enlist the help of the staff. Don’t be afraid to explain what you like, request suggestions and be specific about how much you’re willing to spend. DR. VINNY Dear Dr. Vinny, When a sommelier at a restaurant assists you, what is the proper etiquette for tipping? Do you tip the sommelier separately? If so, do you then tip the waiter with the price of the wine excluded from the overall bill? —Steven, Pittsburgh, Pa. Dear Steven, If a restaurant has a sommelier, you can assume that there is some sort of policy in place for him or her to receive…

United States CALIFORNIA Acquerello Grand Award since 2012 Addison Grand Award since 2009 Capo Grand Award since 2015 The French Laundry Grand Award since 2007 La Toque Grand Award since 2014 Patina Grand Award since 1994 Plumed Horse Grand Award since 2015 Restaurant Gary Danko Grand Award since 2001 Restaurant 301 at the Hotel Carter Grand Award since 1998 RN74 Grand Award since 2010 Saison Grand Award since 2014 Sierra Mar Grand Award since 2012 Spago Beverly Hills Grand Award since 2010 Spruce Grand Award since 2015 The Stonehouse Grand Award since 2014 Studio Grand Award since 2014 Valentino Grand Award since 1981 The Village Pub Grand Award since 2013 COLORADO Element 47 Grand Award since 1997 Flagstaff House Restaurant Grand Award since 1983 FLORIDA Bern’s Steak House Grand Award…

DOWN UNDER From First Drop to Xabregas, this tour around Australia covers more than just fanciful names. Riesling, Shiraz, even Tempranillo and a few blends—all for $25 or less—offer plenty of flavor and personality. Slake your thirst with a sleek, tangy Riesling or fire up the grill and open a fruity red. The proprietary blends are variations of Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro. FIRST DROP Shiraz Barossa Mother’s Milk 2013 (92, $20) Black cherry, cassis, gingerbread spice; supple, expressive KILIKANOON Riesling Clare Valley Mort’s Block 2013 (92, $20) Pear, peach, citrus ANTHROPOLOGY Shiraz New South Wales 2012 (91, $10) Currant, plum, peppercorn THE CHOOK Shiraz-Viognier Australia 2013 (91, $18) Licorice, mineral, blackberry; taut D’ARENBERG Riesling McLaren Vale The Dry Dam 2014 (91, $17) Sea salt, lime, nectarine DANDELION Menagerie of the…

A compelling story adds a dimension of understanding and appreciation. And that, in turn, makes you pay attention. If someone said, “Can you tell me in a single sentence one of the truths of wine?” I would reply, “People don’t drink the wine, they drink the story.” Let me give you an example. I’m a big fan of Spanish white wines. I admire their individuality, coming as they do from grape varieties seen nowhere else. I also like their reasonable prices and, in many cases, their lack of oak. Not least, I love their remarkable stories. French wines tend to have wonderfully romantic, historical stories involving generals (Napoleon), writers (Rabelais) or a constellation of kings, queens and Rothschilds. Spain, for its part, specializes in stories of resurrection and redemption, of…

Perched on southern England’s River Test, the new home of Bombay Sapphire at Laverstoke Mill sheds the staid image of gin as the Queen Mum’s tipple in favor of a Willy Wonka– like fantasyland, designed to welcome a new generation of gin fans in style. Renovated from a derelict, 300-year-old paper mill, the stately brick buildings have been augmented with two biomorphic glass greenhouses. Each has a specific climate, one tropical and one Mediterranean, designed to house Bombay Sapphire’s critical ingredients—10 living botanical specimens basking in the warmth produced by the copper stills, pampered like the trophies of a Victorian orchid hunter. This is today’s gin, a spirit once labeled a scourge upon 18th-century London society, reborn into an era of civility and boundless creativity. Genever, the precursor to gin,…

The Bowery, one of the oldest areas of New York City, is not the most picturesque part of Manhattan. Some blocks are commercial or industrial, others simply neglected. But a handful of ambitious, forward-thinking restaurateurs are bringing change and infusing new energy into this stretch of the Lower East Side. Pearl & Ash is at the forefront of this movement. Partner and wine director Patrick Cappiello, who has called the neighborhood home for more than 15 years, has created a real diamond in the rough. The original concept of Pearl & Ash, Cappiello explains, was to “give industry people the opportunity to go to one place and enjoy many fun, exciting things on the menu in a spot with a comfortable environment. A place where they could be themselves with…

Passersby on a quiet block of posh Presidio Heights in San Francisco would hardly realize that a big, lively restaurant exists behind Spruce’s small, gated foyer. But the neighborhood, and the city at large, quickly discovered how good the food and wine were when the doors opened in 2007. It was a first foray into San Francisco by Bacchus Management, owner of seven restaurants and a bakery scattered around the Bay Area, including Wine Spectator Grand Award holder the Village Pub. The restaurants attract different crowds. At the Village Pub, Silicon Valley venture capitalists and tech leaders go for high-end wines. Andrew Green, responsible for wine in all Bacchus restaurants, says the regulars at Spruce “have their comfort zone. It’s the wine they discovered on their first trips to wine…

88Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay Columbia Valley 2013 $11 WASHINGTON Fresh, deftly balanced and expressive, with pretty pear, grapefruit and white pepper flavors, finishing soft. Drink now through 2017. 645,200 cases made.—H.S. 88McWilliam’s Chardonnay South Eastern Australia Hanwood Estate 2013 $10 AUSTRALIA Lean, sharply focused, seamless and harmonious, offering a tangy mouthful of lime-accented apple and quince flavors. Floral and spice overtones add to the long and expressive finish. Drink now through 2017. 25,000 cases made.—H.S. WINESPECTATOR.COM For more than 321,000 wine ratings, use WineSpectator.com’s Wine Ratings search, where members can search by winery, wine name, region, variety, vintage, price and score. Find it at www.winespectator.com/wine. 87Les Jamelles Chardonnay Pays d’Oc 2013 $10 FRANCE Medium-bodied, offering flavors of apple cobbler, pear and spice matched with beeswax and lanolin undertones. Glossy-textured, with…

91 Alpha Estate Florina S.M.X. 2011 $30 This ripe and powerful red delivers dense, refined flavors of dried raspberry, currant and roasted chestnut that lengthen out with medium-grained tannins. Floral and mineral notes show on the finish. Drink now through 2019. 4,000 cases made.—K.M. 90 Alpha Estate Malagouzia Florina Turtles Vineyard 2014 $18 Rich and flush with fresh-cut green apple, honeydew melon and grapefruit flavors that feature a vibrant minerality. Delivers hints of savory herbs, leading to a lush finish of cream and spice. Drink now through 2018. 8,500 cases made.—K.M. 90 Lyrarakis Vilana Crete 2014 $13 This ripe, almost unctuous white is filled with tropical fruit and ripe citrus flavors, along with engaging savory notes. Offers a plush mouthfeel, with a fresh, engaging finish that lingers with dried mint…