Indholdsfortegnelse for October 15-31, 2017 i Wine Spectator

Visit www.winespectator.com/101517 to find links to all of the following resources. Free resources for all WineSpectator.com readers: VOTE IN THE 2017 VIDEO CONTEST! Original short wine videos have been pouring into Wine Spectator’s 11th annual video contest. On Sept. 11, we’re posting the finalists so you can vote for your favorite. The winner will receive a pair of tickets to our spectacular Wine Experience weekend. The top video will be revealed on Sept. 19. In the meantime, check out the entry guidelines and previous years’ finalists. THE WINE WORLD, UNFILTERED Love wine and spirits? Into pop culture? Get the scoop on how drinks intersect with movies, TV, music, sports, politics and more in our weekly Web column and its companion email newsletter. Sign up so you don’t miss a word!…

E. Guigal Buys Châteauneuf-du-Pape Estate E. Guigal, one of the largest and best-known négociants in France’s Rhône Valley and owner of some of the most coveted vineyards in Côte- Rôtie, has purchased the historic Domaine de Nalys in Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Groupama, a French insurance conglomerate. The deal includes 124 acres of vineyards. The sale price was not disclosed. “We visited the Domaine de Nalys a little over a year ago,” managing director Philippe Guigal told Wine Spectator. “For my father and myself, it was love at first sight.” Although the Guigals have been bottling Châteauneuf- du-Pape since 1946 with purchased fruit, this acquisition makes them first-time proprietors in the Southern Rhône. —Emma Balter Belgian Investors Buy Poggio Antico Montalcino’s Poggio Antico, a winery that includes one of Tuscany’s highest vineyards,…

FRENCH OPEN Here’s an open invitation to explore France through several major regions stretching from the Loire Valley in the north to the Rhône Valley and Languedoc in the south. This selection includes whites in both dry and dessert styles and reds that run the gamut in terms of approach, from savory to jammy. CHÂTEAU D’EPIRÉ Savennières 2015 (93, $21) Pure, racy; mirabelle plum, yellow apple, white peach, mineral, verbena PIERRE AMADIEU St.-Joseph Les Capelets 2015 (92, $28) Crushed plum, boysenberry, fig, graphite, tobacco; dense, mouthfilling FRANÇOIS CAZIN Cour-Cheverny Moelleux Le Petit Chambord Cuvée Renaissance Vendanges Manuelles 2014 (92, $23) Dessert style; creamed Bosc pear, green apple, fig, piecrust, elderflower, verbena EMMANUEL DARNAUD Crozes-Hermitage Mise en Bouche 2015 (92, $25) Ripe, fleshy; dark plum, blackberry, raspberry confiture, anise, singed apple…

Many wine lovers— and I count myself among them—are convinced that you can never fully understand a wine until you’ve laid eyes (and feet) on where it’s grown. For some, it’s a matter of getting the literal lay of the land by seeing and walking the topography. Think the plunging hillsides of Piedmont’s Langhe zone or the flat, maritime, château- truffled landscape of the Médoc. Or it might be a matter of getting a feel for, and recognizing the influence of, the local culture. Anyone who’s visited California knows that there’s a freewheeling spirit of place that’s like nowhere else in the world. Of course, it goes without saying that we all should visit any wine zone creating wines that tantalize our palates. The list that follows is just one…

Dominick Antonelli is chairman of the board of Roosevelt & Cross, Inc., a firm dealing in municipal securities, founded in 1946 by Archibald Roosevelt, son of President Theodore Roosevelt. The roots of the firm date to 1797, when Roosevelt & Son was founded in Manhattan as a hardware company. Antonelli joined the company in 1961. He spoke with executive editor Thomas Matthews about his long-view perspective on life and work in lower Manhattan. Wine Spectator: What was your first experience of lower Manhattan? Dominick Antonelli: When I was in high school, my family lived in Park Slope, Brooklyn. When I was 14, I found an after-school job at a law firm at 111 Broadway, right next to Trinity Church. It was only five stops on the subway to Wall Street,…

Gotham Bar and Grill New Yorkers are quite free with advice. Tell them where you’re going for dinner and you’re likely to be told which table to demand and what dishes to order. Tell them you’re going to Gotham, however, and you’ll get a faraway romantic look, as if an evening there resulted in a very happy marriage indeed. Dinner here does have a glow to it. It’s a big open room on a quiet Village street. There’s a long bar up a couple of steps on the left and steps down to the dining room on the right. Lampshades like inverted cream-colored parachutes hang from the high ceiling, quiet jazz tinkles in the background and there’s a happy murmur. It has the warm stability of a place that’s been…

The intersection of Broadway and Amsterdam avenues and 71st and 72nd streets is a study in controlled chaos. There’s an entrance to a major subway station in the middle of myriad crosswalks splicing the two major avenues. Traffic crosscuts in all directions; sidewalks are full of pedestrians. Surrounding it all is a coterie of coffee shops, apartment buildings, dry cleaners, a Trader Joe’s, a dance studio and more. And it all flows, day in and day out, with the grit and glitz that defines the Upper West Side. Running from 59th Street north, and west from Central Park West to the Hudson River, the Upper West Side is Manhattan’s most densely populated neighborhood. The sidewalks spring to life early in the morning as families drop their children at school, and…

David Walentas, 78, founded Two Trees Management in 1968. The private, family-owned company, with a net value of $3 billion in real estate, has had investments in Dumbo since 1978. David’s wife, Jane, 72, is an artist who restored the carousel in Brooklyn Bridge Park. Their son, Jed, 42, spearheaded the company’s purchase and development of the Wythe Hotel and the Domino Sugar Factory in Williamsburg. Assistant editor Emma Balter spoke with the Walentases about Dumbo’s success story. Wine Spectator: What made you come to Dumbo? David Walentas: I had a partner [at Two Trees] and we started buying crappy old buildings in Manhattan. We were in SoHo; we found the artists. They were always in front of the real estate trend. I asked: SoHo, NoHo, what’s next? And somebody…

New York is a whirlwind metropolis that strains at the seams with history and culture and visions of the future. It’s extraordinary. There’s no other city like it. In many ways, visitors have an enviable perspective compared with hurried and harried locals, who might shrug when reminded that they live in a city that offers some of the world’s best— everything. Newcomers move less quickly, and they certainly don’t dart across the street last-minute as the light changes. Instead, they take the time to explore all the city has to offer. And it begins with where they choose to stay. A tour through New York’s finest hotels reveals striking diversity, even as hospitality is consistently outstanding and the accommodations polished to a sheen. Focuses vary; from boutique to corporate, different…

Neither of us were born in New York. But we have made our homes and our lives here and we are very proud to be New Yorkers. With this issue, we share our city with you, our readers. Marvin was born in New Haven, Conn., and educated in Miami and Washington, D.C. He moved to New York soon after earning his MBA and, following a stint on Wall Street, founded his publishing business. There were lean days at first. He lived and worked in a small apartment in Midtown. Like many newcomers to this city, he struggled, but persisted and ultimately succeeded. He now lives on the Upper West Side with his wife, Hazel. They enjoy being close to Lincoln Center, where they have season tickets to the Metropolitan Opera,…

Domenico Clerico, a renowned vintner who helped build a new wave of enthusiasm for Barolo wines, died July 16 at his home in Monforte d’Alba after a long battle with cancer. He was 67. Clerico, who considered himself more a grapegrower than a winemaker, produced rich, dense Barolos from his 52 acres of vines in Monforte. His Barolos—Ciabot Mentin and Pajana from the cru Ginestra vineyard; Percristina, named after his late daughter and sourced from the Mosconi vineyard; and Aeroplan Servaj from the Baudana cru in Serralunga— expressed their sites, showing purity of fruit, minerality and structure for aging. Clerico’s Barolos have routinely scored outstanding (90 points or more) on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale. Clerico’s Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra 2006 was No. 8 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of…

With worldwide album sales surpassing 30 million copies, four Grammy nominations and consistently soldout shows on some of the world’s biggest stages, Josh Groban has been a star vocalist since his teens, with singles like “You Raise Me Up.” His acting chops are nearly as impressive: Groban, 36, earned his first Tony Award nomination this year—Best Actor in a Musical—for his performance as Pierre in Broadway’s Natasha, Pierre & The Great Comet of 1812. But what even his most loyal fans may not know is that the baritone balladeer is pursuing a quieter art: winemaking. Groban’s big break in that field came earlier this year when he met boutique Sonoma winery owner Ross Halleck, who offered to produce a limited-edition wine to benefit Groban’s arts–education charity, the Find Your Light…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Côte 2015 $54 FRANCE Gorgeous, with layers of fig, pear, quince, nectarine and yellow apple fruit coursing through. Opulent yet focused. COLLECTIBLE 97 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Vigna le Rocche Riserva 2011 $400 ITALY This alluring red starts out with rose, cherry, raspberry and menthol flavors, all harmonious, before picking up tar, tobacco and mineral. SMART BUY 90 Mason Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Yount Mill Vineyard 2016 $19 CALIFORNIA A lip-smacking mix of pear, melon and Key lime flavors, this is clean, smooth and crisp, with plenty of intensity on the finish. BEST VALUE 87 Stonecap Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2015 $8 WASHINGTON A supple and easygoing red, showing zesty cherry and coffee flavors. IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE You’ll…

From world-class art and architecture to globe-spanning food and wine, the great city of New York delivers the goods. The great challenge is knowing where to look. Locals and savvy visitors know that the metropolis is actually a collection of distinct and varied neighborhoods, each with its own unique character and diverse treasures. The Upper East Side is home to famous museums; Midtown holds Broadway’s iconic theater district; Chelsea offers the High Line; Brooklyn boasts a scenic new waterfront park. Here, in 100-plus pages covering seven key neighborhoods in Manhattan and Brooklyn, Wine Spectator’s New York–based editors celebrate the best restaurants, hotels, wine bars, food and wine stores, and attractions the city has to offer. The focus is on places of special appeal to lovers of food and wine. New…

The action starts early on market days in Union Square Park. More than 100 farmers, fishmongers, bakers, buskers and artists set up shop, serving 50,000-plus New Yorkers a day at the city’s premier farmers market. Founded in 1976, the Union Square Greenmarket planted the culinary seed that grew the neighborhood into an incubator of fine dining. Since 1865, sculptor Henry Kirke Brown’s bronze equestrian George Washington statue has kept vigil over Union Square, memorializing Evacuation Day, when Washington reclaimed the city from the British. Beneath his gaze, the first Labor Day was celebrated in 1882. Workers’ and women’s rights rallies have been held here since the late 19th century, and the park’s southern plaza regularly draws protests and demonstrations that compete with head-spinning break-dancers, castling chess masters and mantra-chanting Hare…

At first glance, Manhattan’s Midtown area appears to be populated solely by business people and tourists. Skyscrapers full of offices pack the neighborhood’s central north-south corridors. The Midtown Tunnel and Grand Central Terminal funnel multitudes into the city on the east side. Others arrive via the Lincoln Tunnel or Pennsylvania Station on the west side. If not heading to work, they are flocking to Midtown to see a show and enjoy the extensive shopping—or at least some window-shopping. Part of what makes Manhattan vibrant is the interlacing of different aspects and focuses of life, and this is readily apparent in Midtown, a swath roughly defined by 34th Street to the south and 59th Street to the north and encompassing a number of smaller neighborhoods within that span. Most of Midtown’s…

Rockefeller Center and Radio City Music Hall One of New York’s most familiar images is a live shot of Rockefeller Center shown every time NBC program content changes. Most of the year, viewers see the clean-cut limestone buildings and the ring of flags representing United Nations’ members. Over the holidays, the image is dominated by the 95-foot Christmas tree bedecked by 45,000 twinkling lights, and skaters on the ice rink below. Centrally located between 48th and 51st streets and Fifth and Sixth avenues, Rockefeller Center is populated equally by meandering tourists and purposeful locals on any given day. The complex’s buildings hold restaurants and retail locations at street level, while myriad businesses rent office space on the higher floors. The construction and development of Rockefeller Center’s 22 acres in the…

Known as a neighborhood of musicians, artists and academics, the Upper West Side also has a reputation for keeping its residents long-term. It’s a distinct phenomenon, and one that Toshiko Akiyoshi and Lew Tabackin ably represent. Akiyoshi, 87, is a Japanese- American pianist and jazz icon. Also a bandleader, composer and arranger, she has received 14 Grammy nominations and released countless albums. In 2007, she was named an NEA Jazz Master by the U.S. National Endowment for the Arts. Philadelphia-born Tabackin, 77, is a noted flutist and alto saxophonist who has played with Akiyoshi for decades in addition to pursuing his own projects. Both musicians still play locally and abroad. They’ve also lived in the same apartment on the Upper West Side since 1982. With 35 years of life in…

Collectors’ Corner The July 31 issue (“The Art of Collecting, cover) was great. What I enjoyed [most] were “The [Path to Wine] Collecting” and “[Built to Age].” They were all very well done, but the cellar I liked the best was Dina Given’s, and she hit the nail on the head when she said she wanted a cellar where she could drink a glass and not be freezing. My hat goes off. We have been in the wine and liquor business since 1966 and have seen many cellars, but Dina’s was the top one. Giacomo Butera Sr. Owner, Margaux and Associates Dallas The various articles about collecting and collectors were interesting. But to us the most enjoyable aspect is purchasing a case or more of a particular favorite when it’s…

The team at Pedroncelli Winery celebrated its 90th anniversary in late July. For close to a century, the family has been producing dependable and affordable wines in northern Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma. Founders Giovanni and Julie Pedroncelli initially acquired 25 acres of vines in 1927 and sold grapes to local home winemakers during Prohibition. Son John Jr. took over as winemaker in 1949 and made the first Pedroncelli-labeled wine. His brother Jim joined as sales manager in 1955. Today the third and fourth generations run the business. The celebration began with tasting flights of library wines spanning four decades, followed by a new vineyard dedication, and concluded with a dinner. Guests told stories and praised the family for its commitment to quality and affordability. Several winery employees have been…

In 2014, vintners in Paso Robles subdivided their large region into smaller bites, creating 11 American Viti cultural Areas. It has been difficult to know what to make of these partitions. Praise them as a bold vision for the future? Dismiss them as a recipe for confusion? Conclude that they could be both? None of the AVAs are well-known. Some of them, such as Templeton Gap, ring distant bells but no hard wine connections. The success of each new AVA will depend, of course, on the quality of its wines, but no one can say how these divisions will impact the region as a whole. For now, the best we can do is look to the past as a guide to the future. Paso is the midway point between San…

Stone Street runs a mere two blocks in lower Manhattan. But if you happen to wander across it on a sunny day in late September, you could find crowds of people slurping oysters and hoisting pints of beer while struggling not to trip on the cobblestones underfoot. The small-scale setting—old buildings, briny breeze, an easy, lived-in conviviality—might convince you it has been this way for centuries. And in a way, it has. Stone Street is one of the oldest streets in New York City, dating to the mid-17th century, when the Dutch owned Manhattan. The English built a tavern here in 1670. Many of the buildings currently standing were constructed after the Great Fire of 1835. This enclave has witnessed most of Manhattan’s four-century history. Yet today’s Stone Street is…

One World Plaza Lower Manhattan is the oldest part of New York City, and also the most striking example of its ability to reconceive, rebuild and renew its character no matter what challenges or tragedies its citizens may encounter. The terrorist attack of Sept. 11, 2001, was the most recent catastrophe: The twin towers of the World Trade Center were destroyed, and nearly 3,000 people died. In the aftermath, the site was named Ground Zero. But other cataclysms have struck the area over the years. In 1993, a bombing at the World Trade Center killed six people and wounded more than 1,000. In 1613, a Dutch ship called the Tyger burned in the Hudson River; the stranded crew built the first European settlement on the island that became known as…

Not for nothing is it called “the Village.” This broad swath of Manhattan— from 14th Street to Canal Street, river to river—lassoes a number of distinct, well-preserved neighborhoods, each full of history and character. Buildings are lower than elsewhere, and many streets skew off the grid. • While this section covers a very large area, it’s best appreciated in pieces, and on foot. Most of these neighborhoods support a jumble of attractions, and the way to find them is simply by wandering. You might window-shop for clothes, pop into an art book store, then stop off at a wine bar for an afternoon constitutional. Most neighborhoods have historical sites, and it’s edifying to pepper your walkabout with them. I sometimes punctuate my Saturday stroll to the Greenmarket at Union Square…

Tenement Museum There is no more goosebump-inducing museum in the city than the Tenement Museum. If you’ve ever wondered about immigrant life in New York, a visit to this place will enlighten and move you. The Tenement Museum brings to striking life the overcrowded apartment buildings called tenements in which waves of new immigrants lived and toiled beginning in the 19th century. To tell their stories, it preserves the occupants’ belongings and offers three ways to experience this singular place: A guide can accompany you on a tour of the building; you can visit with an actor playing the role of a former tenant; or you can take a neighborhood walking tour on a theme (the food one is especially good). All are recommended but the first is a must-do.…

Junoon Just south of the east side’s Murray Hill neighborhood there’s a stretch of Lexington Avenue affectionately nicknamed “Curry Hill.” The bustling collection of Indian restaurants and shops grew up around Kalustyan’s spice emporium, founded in 1944, and became the epicenter of one of New York’s quintessential ethnic-food experiences. But you don’t have to travel as far east as Lex to find Junoon, Café Spice founder Rajesh Bhardwaj’s contemporary finedining temple to Indian cuisine and the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence–winning wine list tailored to its menu. “[Curry Hill] paved the way for us to take Indian cuisine to the next level,” he says. “Those establishments should get the credit for putting the cuisine on the map; restaurants like Junoon are the natural progression.” Bhardwaj’s ambitious restaurant has…

Danny Meyer is CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group. The St. Louis native moved to New York in his twenties and turned his passion for fine dining and hospitality into a career, opening Union Square Cafe on East 16th Street in 1985; Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park (sold to chef Daniel Humm and manager Will Guidara in 2011), the Modern, Maialino, Untitled and more followed. Meyer spearheaded the revitalization of Madison Square Park in the early 2000s, anchored by Shake Shack, his hugely popular burger stand. He took the fast-casual restaurant public 10 years later. Its $21-ashare IPO more than doubled on the first day of trading in January 2015, and shares were trading at $90 within six months, when Forbes estimated that Meyer had netted $600 million on the…

On a sunny June day, bistro Le Bilboquet on East 60th Street was packed with smartly dressed men and women of all ages, many tanned from weekends in the Hamptons or other recent travels. Around the corner, elegant women who could grace the pages of Vogue slipped in and out of shops such as Barneys, Bottega Veneta, Moncler and Tod’s. There is no mistaking the tony vibe of Manhattan’s Upper East Side, but it’s far from one-dimensional. Amble west from Le Bilboquet and you’ll find eager tourists lingering at the entrance to Central Park. Head north and east of 60th Street and Madison, and the neighborhood changes dramatically. Between 72nd and 86th streets on Second Avenue, the overflowing bars and crowded restaurants are reminiscent of downtown, if less edgy than…

“There’s a whole New York that you haven’t experienced until you visit Brooklyn,” says Marty Markowitz, Brooklyn borough president from 2002 through 2013. Once considered foreign territory by visitors (as well as by many city residents), Brooklyn has emerged over the past decade as a destination for food and culture, and a refreshing alternative to Manhattan—one far from the skyscrapers and glittering lights. The Brooklyn waterfront, which is at the fore of the borough’s revival, is the focus of this story. The first time I went to Dumbo, a small riverfront area whose name stands for “Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass,” it was by accident. I was living in Manhattan’s Lower East Side and, engrossed in some reading on the subway, I missed my stop and ended up on…

A steak dinner should feel like a gustatory Olympic event. With a richly dressed salad, a molehill of mashed potatoes and a goblet of inky Cabernet, it’s a feast to slake hunger, and then some. And New York is, in myriad ways, a hungry city, and then some. The late 19th century saw the rise of the “beefsteak,” an intially all-male ritual of great excess: Attendees drank beer, smoked, sang, and ate as much as they possibly could of beef loin, lamb chops and kidneys, with their hands, no napkins permitted. The beefsteak fell out of fashion, but its better-mannered cousin, the chop house, powered on—and leveled up, the venue of choice for bankers, lawyers, socialites, politicos, mafiosos and anyone else grasping at the levers of power and influence. “There’s…

COUSIN VINNY Dear Cousin Vinny, I’m coming to New York! Got any advice? —Dr. Vinny Yo Doc! Don’t let the gruff rep fool ya—we’re a friendly lot and we can be real helpful if you ask the right person, for instance, yours truly! First off, you should know that we really are the city that never sleeps: Many of our bars can stay open ’til 4 a.m.! Did you order a bottle of beer? Leave the barkeep a buck. Did you order a physics-defying cocktail with eight components, one of which is on fire? You better tip more than a lousy clam if you want another one. Should you stay until 4 a.m.? Get outta here! You should also know that you can’t buy wine at the supermarket in New…