Indholdsfortegnelse for December 31, 2017 i Wine Spectator

This issue features our annual Top 100 Wines of the Year—the most exciting wines we blind-tasted among the nearly 17,000 new releases we reviewed in 2017. The No. 1 wine in the 2017 Top 100 is Duck-horn’s Merlot 2014 from Napa Valley’s Three Palms vineyard. It’s the second Merlot to be crowned Wine of the Year, follow-ing the Paloma Spring Mountain District 2001, which earned the top honor in 2003. Merlot may not have the stature of Cab-ernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir in California, but when it’s done right, it can be spectacular. What makes the 2014 Duckhorn so special? First, of course, its quality. At a classic 95 points on our 100-point scale, it’s the top-scoring California Merlot we reviewed this year. Second, its relative value. In 2017, 14…

Artisanal chocolate producers, for all their great work elevating quality and enlightening the public, have sloughed off one of chocolate lovers’ great pleasures: the box. Single-origin bars represent a lot of work, and demand the consumer’s attention, and so are sold alone. That’s fine, but it precludes grazing. I have found something that satisfies both sides of this problem. Askinosie Chocolate, a singular bean-to-bar producer in Springfield, Mo., has the Chocolate Library (www.askinosie.com; $140), a pine box with 15 single-origin bars, including white, dark and flavored versions. It represents their broad range handily, with several unusual offerings like a malted milk bar made made in collabaration with Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams. The man behind this barely decade-old company is Shawn Askinosie. As with many American chocolatiers, this is a second…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 Bodegas LAN Rioja Edición Limitada 2013 $50 SPAIN This inky red is ripe and concentrated, with currant, kirsch and boysenberry flavors framed by espresso, licorice and black pepper notes. COLLECTIBLE 96 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2013 $135 ITALY Round and smooth, featuring leather, licorice and underbrush flavors surrounding a core of cherry, with tobacco and mineral accents. SMART BUY 90 Poet’s Leap Riesling Columbia Valley 2016 $20 WASHINGTON Snappy and refined, this has expressive star fruit and slate aromas and sleek, lingering apricot and spice flavors. BEST VALUE 89 Sauvion & Fils Vouvray 2016 $12 FRANCE An enticing white, with a plump hint to the racy green apple, pear and quince flavors. This ends with a light honeysuckle note. IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE You’ll find 24 classic…

The life of wine is—or should be, anyway—the life of the table. The key point is one you already know: The setting is critical, context is all. Without food (and friends and laughter) wine is a one-dimensional experience. The wines on my list this year suffered no such sterility. All were savored and richly appreciated in memorable settings, with enjoyable company. Did that affect my assessment of the wines? I doubt it. Welcome or not, a certain professional remove is always present when I’m tasting a wine. One last point: This year all of my wines are white. I have no idea why. Quintodecimo Falanghina Irpinia Via del Campo 2015 ($50) The Setting: Pierluigi restaurant in Rome, tucked into a small, intimate piazza. Outdoor tables are covered with white umbrellas…

95 POINTS | $98 | 3,170 cases made Merlot is back, and deservedly so. Despite the comic derision heaped on the variety in the popular film Sideways, Merlot can make extraordinary wines in California. Duckhorn’s Three Palms bottling in the excellent 2014 vintage is ample proof. Duckhorn Vineyards was founded in Napa Valley in 1976, and Merlot has been its specialty from the start. Since its first vintage, in 1978, the winery has tapped one of the valley’s most storied vineyards: Three Palms, named for the trio of palms that grow in its midst. San Francisco socialite Lillie Hitchcock Coit owned the site in the late-19th century and planted the palms. But for Margaret and Dan Duckhorn, Three Palms was the anchor that helped them build one of Napa Valley’s…

WINESPECTATOR.COM Visit our Top 100 website to find matching recipes, videos and in-depth articles related to this year’s Top 10. Take a look back through wine history with our full set of Top 100 lists back to 1988. And enter Wine Spectator’s sweepstakes for a chance to win a bottle of each of the Top 10 of 2016! Find the whole package at top100.winespectator.com.…

Every year the world of wine gets bigger. Emerging regions, unfamiliar grapes and new wineries constantly appear on the scene, while established producers build on their past successes. Against this ever-changing backdrop, value can be a moving target. Are the regions you looked to last year still producing affordably priced wines, or has greater demand driven up costs? What are the up-and-coming regions and grapes that offer the highest quality for the price while delivering unexpected pleasures? The wines in this year’s annual roundup of 100 top values each answer these questions in their own distinctive way. All of them are rated 88 points or higher, priced at $20 or less and made in large enough quantities to be widely available. Another 23 wines in this year’s Top 100 also…

Light Whites Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Albarino, dry Riesling Goat Cheese Ricotta Queso Fresco Mozzarella Feta Rich Whites Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, white Rioja Camembert Brie Pecorino Taleggio Époisses Gruyère Elegant Reds Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sangiovese, Tempranillo Manchego Comté Morbier Ossau-Iraty Parmesan Cheddar Big Reds Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, Grenache, Zinfandel, Douro reds Aged Gouda Dry Jack…

90 $20 TENSHEN Rose Central Coast 2016 California Expressive and fun to drink, this rose has crisp nectarine, smoky spice and watermelon flavors. Syrah blend. (T.F.) 89 $14 FERRARI-CARANO Sangiovese Sonoma County Rose Dry 2016 California Effusive aromas of spicy cinnamon and strawberry lead to crisp and zesty raspberry flavors. (T.F.) 89 $20 CHATEAU D’AQUERIA Tavel 2016 France This sports a plump core of strawberry and red currant notes, flanked with high-pitched rose water and floral accents. (J.M.) 88 $11 14 HANDS Rose Columbia Valley 2016 Washington Expressive raspberry and watermelon aromas combine with snappy, easygoing flavors. Syrah and Grenache. (T.F.) 88 $12 MATUA Pinot Noir Marlborough Rose 2016 New Zealand Light, juicy watermelon and apple skin flavors are wrapped around fresh berry notes in this rose, which is vibrant…

Washington 14 Hands First vintage: 2005 Cases made in 2016: 2 million Winemaker: Keith Kenison Anew First vintage: 2012 Winemaker: K.D. Organ Chateau Ste. Michelle First vintage: 1967 Cases made in 2016: 3.4 million Winemaker: Bob Bertheau Col Solare First vintage: 1995 Partnership: Marchesi Antinori Winemaker: Darel Allwine Columbia Crest First vintage: 1984 Cases made in 2016: 1.2 million Winemaker: Juan Munoz-Oca Domaine Ste. Michelle First vintage: 1974 Winemaker: Paula Eakin Drumheller First vintage: 2014 Winemaker: Tim Jones Eroica First vintage: 1999 Partnership: Dr. Loosen Winemakers: Bob Bertheau and Ernst Loosen Intrinsic First vintage: 2014 Winemaker: Juan Munoz-Oca Northstar First vintage: 1994 Winemaker: David Merfeld Seven Falls First vintage: 2010 Winemaker: Doug Gore Snoqualmie First vintage: 1984 (acquired 1991) Winemaker: Joy Andersen retired in July; no successor yet named Spring…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 2013 $62 ITALY This pretty red offers delicate flavors and subtle power, evoking flowers, red berry, mineral, tobacco and tar on the nose and palate. Firmly structured, this remains harmonious and long on the mineral- and tobacco-tinged finish. Best from 2020 through 2036. 500 cases made.—B.S. 96 Le Macchiole Toscana Messorio 2013 $225 ITALY An impressive array of plum, cherry, vanilla, toast and stone flavors are the hallmarks of this powerful yet polished red, showing excellent concentration and purity matched to freshness and length. There is a sense of youthful harmony that should improve as this mellows with time. Merlot.…

The reviews that follow are the on-release tasting notes for the wines of the 2017 Top 100. Ranking is indicated by the number in the red box to the left of each note. Prices given are release prices. The date in parenthesis indicates the issue in which the wine was first reviewed. An overview of this year’s Top 100 and profiles of each of the selected wines begins on page 50. 1 95 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley Three Palms Vineyard 2014 $98 A powerful red, with concentrated flavors of red plum, cherry and boysenberry that are layered with plenty of rich spice and mineral accents. Touches of slate and cardamom make for a complex finish. Drink now through 2023. 3,170 cases made. —K.M. (11/30/17) 2 95 K Syrah Walla Walla…

DR. VINNY Dear Dr. Vinny, If a party guest brings a wine that doesn’t fit with what I’ve planned, is it rude not to serve it? —Anthony M., Holtsville, N.Y. Dear Anthony, It’s funny how a kind gesture can become so complicated. When you show up to someone’s house and give them a gift (as you should), it’s considered a host/hostess gift to thank them for their hospitality, and it is for them to enjoy privately, later. If you want to bring something to be consumed that evening, you need to clear it with the host beforehand. Whether you’re bringing a dessert or a bottle of wine, you should work it out ahead of time with the host. Either ask what they are serving and pick something to complement it,…

Faced with this challenge, I prefer to give newbies a sense of hope. I describe wine learning as an adven-ture, with disappointments and pleasant surprises, but one nonetheless worth pur-suing. One can learn from any wine experience, good or bad. And let us not forget that people’s tastes change with exposure. Wines that are de-lectable today become ordi-nary or tired a year from now, and new wines come to fill their space in the favorites list. How long have any of us stayed in love with a particu-lar wine or even a particular winemaker? It is only after many years that we have con-firmed favorites. In the meanwhile, the ad-venture is certainly worth the time and effort. Let us never forget that it’s all about enjoyment and learn-ing, and that…

As the namesake star of Woody Allen’s 1977 film, Annie Hall, Diane Keaton plays a version of herself, a restless free spirit who leaves New York—and Allen’s lovelorn alter ego, Alvy Singer—to pursue a career in Los Angeles. The geographic underpinnings of the Academy Award–winning actress’ actual life are animated by a similar dynamic tension between the rival cities—and by a proclivity to wander. Born in L.A. and raised in the suburb of Santa Ana, Keaton was fond as a young girl of joining her real estate agent father on visits to open houses. She moved to New York in the 1960s to pursue acting, then went back to L.A. in the 1980s, where she’s lived since. But she spent 15 of those years flipping houses—buying a neglected home, renovating…

GUS ANDREW ANDERSON (1930–2016) The San Francisco orthodontist found a piece of land he loved near Napa’s Howell Mountain and established Anderson’s Conn Valley in the 1980s. HENRI-LOUIS BARRUOL (1928–2017) The father of Rhône star Louis Barruol showed the world what Gigondas could be at Château de St.-Cosme. L. PIERCE CARSON (1940–2017) His 50-year career at a Napa Valley newspaper helped chronicle the wine industry’s rise. DONALD CARANO (1931–2017) The casino owner and hotelier, with his wife, Rhonda, built Ferrari-Carano winery, elevating Sonoma’s Chardonnay and hospitality. DOMENICO CLERICO (1950–2017) One of Barolo’s so-called modernists, Clerico helped reshape expectations with his vineyard-designated wines. LIVIO FELLUGA (1914–2016) The widely esteemed patriarch of northeastern Italy’s Friuli brought his region’s wines back to life with an ambitious vision for viticulture, winemaking and marketing. DENNIS…

Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, the seventh-largest wine company in the United States, accounts for roughly 60 percent of Washington’s production. But it is hardly monolithic. The company’s Washington portfolio spreads across 16 unique labels rich in very good to outstanding wines. Each has its own niche, as well as a winemaking team assigned to create and maintain its style. As a result— and very much on purpose—the wines are clearly distinct from one another. That’s been true since the company’s first spin-off, Columbia Crest, which debuted in 1984. UST, the tobacco company that owned Ste. Michelle at the time, had planted 1,800 additional acres in Horse Heaven Hills by 1981 and had broken ground on a winery big enough to double production of the flagship label, Chateau Ste. Michelle. Allen…

2 K Syrah Walla Walla Valley Powerline Estate 2014 95 | $45 | Washington The first release from a new vineyard, Powerline Syrah is a bold statement from winemaker Charles Smith. But what do you expect from the bad boy of Washington wine? Located just south of Walla Walla at an elevation of 1,200 feet, the 30-acre vineyard was planted by Smith in 2012. The site is an ancient riverbed containing well-drained soils, thick with cobblestones, sand and gravel, that produce about 2.5 tons per acre. Smith fermented the 2014 with native yeast and soaked it on the skins for 41 days before aging the wine 27 months in French puncheons, 53 percent of them new oak. 1,319 cases made. 3 CHÂTEAU COUTET Barsac 2014 96 | $37 | France…

92 $15 RAPAURA SPRINGS Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2016 New Zealand A lip-smacking and juicy white, offering flavors of mango, lemon and pineapple that are bold and energetic. Finishes crisp and bright. (M.W.) 90 $15 YEALANDS Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Peter Yealands 2016 New Zealand Whiffs of smoke and honeysuckle add an aromatic accent to the core of peach, pear and mango flavors in this white. (M.W.) 90 $16 DOMAINE DU SALVARD Cheverny 2016 France Chiseled, with chive and flint notes backed by a zip of sel gris through the bracing finish. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. (J.M.) 90 $17 WAKEFIELD Riesling Clare Valley 2016 Australia Citrus and floral notes mingle on a lithe body, with white pepper and green apple peel details, finishing with a crescendo of acidity. (M.W.) 90 $18 RAVINES…

This selection of reds and whites attests to the breadth of offerings from Spain. From the triedand- true wines of Rioja to more modern upstarts like Volver and Orowines, there is a lot to like. And don’t shy away from the Monterrei Red, a Mencía-based blend of local varieties. ABADIA RETUERTA Viño de la Tierra de Castilla y León Selección Especial 2014 (93, $28) Dense, structured; plum, currant, dark chocolate, mineral BODEGAS SIERRA CANTABRIA Garnacha Rioja 2014 (92, $23) Plum, blackberry, anise, espresso, mineral, smoke; austere, ripe BODEGAS TOBÍA Rioja White Óscar Tobía Reserva 2013 (92, $25) Fresh, firm; dried apple, chamomile, orange peel, lanolin, vanilla BODEGAS LA EMPERATRIZ Rioja Crianza 2013 (91, $19) Plum, licorice, forest floor, smoke; plump, polished J.L. MATEO GARCÍA Monterrei Red Candea 2015 (91, $23)…

In the middle of a calm October evening, as harvest was winding down in Napa, the winds began to howl. They grew stronger and stronger, building to gale force. Suddenly smoke choked the air, making it difficult to breathe. By dawn the gales had eased and the air had cooled. For a moment the lazy white clouds of smoke could be mistaken for typical morning fog. Until you breathed. Then there was no escape from the eerie scent of charred terrain and the sting to the eyes. Looking skyward, a surreal burntorange glow tinted the sun, then the full moon. Looking to the ground you saw graying particles of dusty ash. The signs of the fires were everywhere. Everyone had the same look of shock and disbelief. It happened so…

The rejuvenation of a winery founded four decades ago (No. 1). A new estate created in an area where no vineyards existed (No. 41). A French red that leans toward Italy (No. 72). These are just a few examples on the impressive list of wines whittled down from the thousands of bottles tasted by Wine Spectator editors in 2017. Of the nearly 17,000 wines under review this year, more than 5,600 rated 90 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale. From that starting point, we looked for wines that excelled in four criteria: quality (based on score), value (based on price), availability (based on cases either made or imported into the U.S.) and, most importantly, a compelling story behind the wine, something we call X-factor. The result is our…

Hugh Davies was born into wine. In 1965, his parents, Jack and Jamie Davies, bought the historic and—at the time—ramshackle Jacob Schram property on Diamond Mountain and established Schramsberg. Hugh arrived a month later. “It’s fulfilling to be part of something that’s enduring, with roots that go far back, and at the same time be part of the future,” says Davies, who became full-time winemaker in 1996 and has run the winery since the passing of his parents. It’s not often that a California winery with a history as distinguished as Schramsberg’s remains at the top of its game after all these years. With its most recent releases, Schramsberg continues to set a high standard; 14 of its wines in this report earned outstanding ratings of 90 points or higher…

91 $17 KUNDE ESTATE Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma Valley Magnolia Lane 2015 California Perfectly ripe peach, mango and melon flavors are intense and fleshy, with bright acidity and floral and honey details. (M.W.) 91 $20 VINA ERRAZURIZ Chardonnay Aconcagua Coast Max Reserva 2016 Chile Minerally and rich-tasting, with finely crafted flavors of apple, citrus, pear and spice that are supported by fresh acidity. (K.M.) 90 $12 HESS SELECT Chardonnay Monterey County 2015 California Exuberantly spicy, with plenty of cream and tropical notes to the ripe pear, apple compote and dried apricot flavors. (K.M.) 90 $15 A.A. BADENHORST FAMILY Chenin Blanc Swartland Secateurs 2016 South Africa Brightly defined, with quince, persimmon and green almond notes forming the core, threaded with quinine and white ginger details. (J.M.) 90 $20 COLLEMASSARI Vermentino Montecucco Melacce…

92 $20 PETER LEHMANN Shiraz Barossa The Barossan 2015 Australia This dense red offers sink-your-teeth-into-them tannins and fleshy notes of spiced plum and wild blackberry. (M.W.) 90 $16 HESS FAMILY LATIN AMERICA Malbec Salta Amalaya 2016 Argentina Creamy and lush, showing vibrant red fruit flavors, with good cut and length on the peppery finish. (K.M.) 90 $17 CASAS DEL BOSQUE Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Gran Reserva 2015 Chile Powerful and rich-tasting, with concentrated flavors of dried raspberry and plum tart accented by plenty of toasty notes. (K.M.) 90 $17 VOLVER La Mancha 2015 Spain Flavors of black cherry and red plum flavors mingle with cocoa and licorice notes in this generous red. A fruit-forward style, with depth. (T.M.) 90 $18 ANTIGAL WINERY & ESTATES Malbec Mendoza Uno 2014 Argentina A…

CHAMPAGNE: The Essential Guide to the Wines, Producers, and Terroirs of the Iconic Region By Peter Liem (Ten Speed Press, 328 pages, $80) Champagne is primarily, and successfully, an in-depth reference volume to the world’s most celebrated sparkling wine. But it also offers thoughtful deliberation on many of the issues that are catapulting the Champagne industry toward new frontiers. “While the twentieth century was about perfecting cellar practices, the twenty-first century is focused on the region’s vines,” Liem writes, “and it’s in the vineyards that Champagne’s contemporary philosophical, cultural, and intellectual debates are taking place.” Liem approaches other topical subjects too, mostly as small inserts throughout the book. Topics range from broad issues such as house-produced Champagne versus those made by individual growers to more specific debates such as fermentation…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue. Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. How We Do the Tastings Wine Spectator editors taste approximately 20,000 wines each year. Wines…