Indholdsfortegnelse for August 31, 2019 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/083119 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL OUR WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS HAVE YOU SEEN OUR NEW WEBSITE? We’ve redesigned WineSpectator.com to be more useful, intuitive and enjoyable. The new layout makes it easier to find what you’re looking for, whether on desk-top, tablet or mobile devices, and we’ve added exciting new sections and features such as Wine IQ, Wine & Culture, Know Your Grapes and Winery Intel. Take a tour at WineSpectator.com! THE WORLD’S BEST WINE LISTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards app helps you find res-taurants with the world’s leading wine lists. Every dining destination in this app—covering all 50 states as well as 79 countries—has earned a Wine Spectator award for its commitment to wine. The app allows you…

San Francisco’s Finest I very much enjoyed your May 31 cover story on San Francisco women chefs, and particularly appreciated the balance that Mr. Steiman achieved between a focus on their creative menus and a broader exploration of the personal perspectives that motivated many of these pioneering women. I am surprised and disappointed, however, at the exclusion of San Francisco’s dynamic chef and restaurateur Gabriela Camara. Well-known for her Mexico City restaurants, including the world-famous Contramar, Camara moved to San Francisco and opened Cala in 2015 to immediate acclaim. Beyond her world-class cuisine, Camara is known for her commitment to the societal role her restaurant can play. She maintains a comprehensive training program for both kitchen and front-of-house staff, many of whom she hires through a program for ex-offenders. Her…

The Italian Job Chianti Classico figures prominently in this group from Italy, a tribute to the superb 2016 vintage. Lovers of heartier reds should check out the Aglianico, while those looking to put a sparkle in their day would do well to try the two outstanding values in bollicine. ISOLE & OLENA Chianti Classico 2016 (93, $29) Broad, complex, vibrant; plum, black cherry, almond, leather, earth ROCCA DELLE MACÌE Chianti Classico Famiglia Zingarelli Riserva 2016 (93, $27) Plum, black cherry, leather, earth, macchia; ripe, expressive CASTELLO DI MELETO Chianti Classico Meleto 2016 (92, $20) Fresh, muscular; black cherry, blackberry, plum, mint, tobacco, earth LA MONTINA Brut Franciacorta Saten NV (91, $26) Black cherry, orchard blossom, blood orange zest, spice box; creamy, lip-smacking SAN MARTINO Aglianico del Vulture Arberesko 2016 (91,…

The majority of wine lovers subscribe to the popular logic that the place for sweet wines is at the close of a meal. But if you think, as I once did, that dry wines with crisp acidity are the only matches for main courses, ask yourself if you sweeten your iced tea. As it happens, I’ve always added a squeeze of lemon to my iced tea, but sweetened iced tea also pleases my taste buds with, say, barbecue or fried catfish Southern-style. The day I realized that red wine could be sipped happily with fish and that white wine could do just fine with a grilled pork chop clinched it: I quit following arbitrary rules. So for those of us who can get past the belief that everyone should drink…

After a series of scorchingly hot growing seasons, Washington received a welcome break from the heat in 2016. The cooler temperatures are reflected in the year’s red wines, which as a group show more finesse and dimension than versions from 2015 and 2014 without losing any of Washington’s trademark vibrant fruit character. Though the state’s signature reds—Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—performed well in 2016, Rhône reds such as Syrah, Grenache and various blends thereof account for most of the top wines in this report. That’s the upshot based on my blind tastings of more than 530 wines in our Napa office since my previous report on the category (“Sun Shines on Washington,” Aug. 31, 2018). I give 2016 a 91-point rating on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, extending Washington’s streak to…

Entrepreneur Tilman Fertitta set a goal of building one of the world’s top wine programs at his new Houston steak house. In less than two years, he did it. Fertitta’s Landry’s restaurant group owns 17 Mastro’s steak houses across the United States, and if you’ve been to one, the new Houston location will feel instantly familiar. Set in Fertitta’s massive and luxurious Post Oak development, the vibe is more modern than that of a typical steak house. The bar area is usually packed, and there’s live music every night. While the menu here has twice as many items as sibling locations, it similarly highlights bold cuisine and big portions, from the giant sushi tower to the Wagyu tomahawk steak. But when you pick up the wine list, it becomes clear…

Reaching Ristorante Cracco requires navigating past fashionistas window-shopping at Prada and tourists snapping selfies under the ornate four-story glass-and-iron roof of landmark Milan shopping area Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. But upon arrival, a hostess whisks you upstairs via a short elevator ride (only one reservation at a time, please), to enter a series of luxuriously appointed, intimate rooms, a calm oasis from the bustle below. It’s quite a transition, one that sets the stage for a truly elevated dining experience, delivering a world-class wine list, outstanding cuisine and exceptional service, all in a graceful setting. The 2,500-selection list is a candy store for wine lovers who dream of getting their hands on bottles from storied producers, vineyards and vintages. “We want the reference point wines, because these are the names…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. James Laube California Harvey Steiman At large Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia,…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $425 See Collectibles, page 169. 96 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Reserve 2016 $150 See Collectibles, page 170. 96 Macdonald Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2016 $175 Very concentrated, this moves slowly but with authority, as the core of cassis and mulled plum fruit is laced with plum pit, stony mineral, light savory, alder and incense notes. Youthfully tight, but with a long echo of sweet fruit that plays out while serious cut and loamy grip hold a rock-steady rhythm. Should cruise in the cellar. Best from 2021 through 2042. 369 cases made.—J.M. 96 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2015 $125 See Highly Recommended, page 169. 95 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2015 $395 This packs a wallop of blueberry,…

Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards program has two goals: Honor restaurants with out-standing wine programs, and guide diners to establishments where they can find the wines they want to drink. We established the awards back in 1981. The program has had real impact, to the great benefit of all wine lovers. This year, nearly 3,800 restaurants in the U.S. and abroad have earned recognition for their commitment to wine, in one of three tiers of achievement: the Award of Excellence; the more selective Best of Award of Excellence; and our pinnacle, the Grand Award. While our focus is on the wine lists, we know that restaurant wine programs involve more than bottles in a cellar. Created by entrepreneurial owners and passionate wine directors, serious programs help develop and support communities of…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 96 MAYACAMAS Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2015 $125 CALIFORNIA Youthfully compact, this red offers tightly wound black currant, bitter plum and dark blueberry notes that show streaks of charcoal, bay leaf and tar, ending with mouthwatering cut on the finish. COLLECTIBLE 97 ANTINORI Toscana Tignanello 2016 $130 ITALY A big, lush style, this red is supple, showing pure flavors of black currant, cherry, violet, flint, tobacco and baking spices. Sangiovese blend. SMART BUY 92 ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Anderson Valley NV $27 CALIFORNIA A sleek and luxurious sparkler, this features expressive flavors of Asian pear, strawberry blossom and roasted hazelnut that build richness on the opulent finish. BEST VALUE 89 MATUA Pinot Noir Marlborough 2017 $12 NEW ZEALAND Tangy cherry flavors are vibrant and energetic in this Pinot, with…

Red Mountain and Walla Walla are the stars of Columbia Valley, but this large winegrowing region also includes 11 smaller American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). Thomas Vogele believes one of those AVAs, Wahluke Slope, is overdue for a little love. “Wahluke Slope is producing some very nice wines and I thought it was time to plant a flag there,” says Vogele, whose Luke label focuses exclusively on the region. Vogel is not alone in his affection for Wahluke. Producers such as Milbrandt, Fielding Hills, Januik and K Vintners bottle wines from there too. With Luke, Vogele is not only highlighting the untapped potential of Wahluke Slope but also the value the region offers compared with more high-profile appellations in Columbia Valley. The three current Luke releases retail for $25 a bottle…

“It’s a long story, but a good story,” says Maria Trabocchi of how she and her husband, chef Fabio Trabocchi, started their relationship and, eventually, Fiola, their flagship restaurant in Washington, D.C. Maria, born and raised in Mallorca, Spain, was a senior at Georgetown University’s School of International Affairs in the mid-1990s when she and some friends were invited to dine at a restaurant in the city. During dinner, they were introduced to the restaurant’s new, 20-year-old Italian chef, Fabio Trabocchi. The two immediately hit it off. After they married, Fabio went on to work in restaurants in Virginia and New York, and in 2009, the couple returned to D.C. with hopes of opening their own restaurant. Soon, they got word of an available space they knew they couldn’t pass…

Tucked away in a back corner of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse in Houston’s downtown is a walkin freezer that is chef Catarino Torres’ pride and joy. This is where he dry-ages his steaks. Standing inside it recently, unfazed by the low humidity and the 31°F temperature, he points to rib eyes and New York strips that have been resting on racks for nearly a month, developing complex flavors. Then he points out some cuts of meat up top, visibly darker. These have been aged for more than 80 days. They’re for a special Burgundy-themed dinner the restaurant’s wine team is planning, and Catarino believes the steaks will match those wines perfectly. “It’s all about highlighting the wine here,” he says. Pappas Bros. is a classic steak house. The interior features dark…

The 2020 Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards program will accept new entries and renewals from Dec. 1, 2019, to Feb. 1, 2020; all entries must be postmarked by Feb. 1. To enter, restaurants must submit a copy of their current wine list and dinner menu, plus a cover letter that describes their wine program. The letter must include the restaurant’s phone number and email address, and must be in English. A nonrefundable processing fee, payable either by check or credit card, is also required. Additional information and general applications are available at Restaurants.WineSpectator.com. FIRST-TIME ENTRANTS: All first-time entrants can go to Restaurants. WineSpectator.com, where they’ll be directed to fill out the online new applicant form. After completion, this form will need to be printed, signed and mailed in along with the…

AUSTRALIA Red 92 Barossa Valley Estate Shiraz Barossa Valley E&E Black Pepper 2015 $95 Espresso and dark chocolate notes add richness to the date, kirsch and malty flavors. Dense, velvety tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2032. 850 cases made, 18 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Dalrymple Pinot Noir Tasmania Pipers River 2017 $53 Fresh, with strawberry and raspberry flavors, accented by dried lavender, matcha green tea, forest floor and white pepper hints, set on a supple frame. Drink now through 2029. 5,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.—M.W. 91 Living Roots Grenache McLaren Vale Grevillea 2017 $26 Toffee and black tea aromatics add a pretty accent to supple and creamy cherry, raspberry and green tea notes in this red. Finds harmony on the long finish. Drink now through 2029. 231 cases…

Dustin Valette is on a cosmic quest for delicious. The chef-owner of Valette restaurant in Healdsburg, Calif., develops each dish by mentally mapping a solar system in which every element on the plate is a planet with a gravitational pull. In the case of his lamb loin with currant sauce, caramelized onions and lamb’s lettuce, shown here, “Lamb is like the sun—that’s the driver, the main force,” he explains. “You have Jupiter, which would be the currants, and you have Mars, which is the cipollini onions. All these different elements are intertwined with that main flavor, and they’re all connected with these little invisible strings.” The goal of the visual is to find balance. Add more butter in Venus and its richness could tip the whole system out of orbit;…

WORLD’S GREATEST RESTAURANT WINE LISTS Wine Spectator’s Grand Award, founded in 1981, honors outstanding restaurants with extraordinary wine programs. In 2019, 100 restaurants have earned Grand Awards; listed here, they represent 17 countries and 14 states plus the District of Columbia. For more information about these distinguished restaurants, turn to the Restaurant Awards listings beginning on page 77; comprehensive coverage is also available at Restaurants.WineSpectator.com. UNITED STATES CALIFORNIA Acquerello San Francisco Grand Award since 2012 Addison San Diego Grand Award since 2009 Capo Santa Monica Grand Award since 2015 The French Laundry Yountville Grand Award since 2007 La Toque Napa Grand Award since 2014 Madera Menlo Park Grand Award since 2018 Murray Circle Sausalito Grand Award since 2016 Patina Los Angeles Grand Award since 1994 The Plumed Horse Saratoga Grand…

It’s 9.a.m, and six glasses of neat gin sit before me. I’m in a beautiful spot 260 miles north of Stockholm, seated in a pretty little distillery painted in the traditional Swedish style of Falu red and white. Jon Hillgren, founder and master distiller of Hernö distillery, is encouraging me to nose and taste spirits at this unseemly hour. My brow furrows: The first two taste passably mediocre and lack the vim I was anticipating. Fortunately, before any awkwardness ensues, Hillgren lets me off the hook and confesses that these are mainstream gins poured for contrast against his handmade artisanal spirits. To my great relief, Hillgren’s gin bursts into life with a bright floral bouquet, citrus and rounded juniper notes and peppery spices. The vitality, freshness and balance of his…

I hadn’t seen sunshine in weeks the first time I drove north from San Francisco into Sonoma County. It was the third week of February, 1989, and the skies were blue, the breeze fresh and the mountains the sort of green that made you want to move to Ireland. Fruit trees were blooming and the daffodils were up. Meanwhile, back in Ohio, where I’d been living, the snow was dingy and the people cranky from a tedious winter. I have no regrets about moving here those 30 years ago. Sonoma has grown and evolved, certainly, but I still think of it as the county I first knew. Much of what makes it a distinctive place and wine region has changed less than you might think, albeit in recent years Sonomans…

Nature is a critical factor in the world of wine. When the weather is good, the results are glorious, and a vintner’s hard work throughout the year is rewarded. But nature is unpredictable, and a vintage can be compromised, or worse, in the blink of an eye. Winemakers expect this delicate relationship. But what about restaurants? A series of natural disasters over the past few years, from fires to earthquakes to hurricanes, have devastated lives and businesses. Many Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners have been affected by these unfortunate events. Some have closed permanently, but others not only vowed to rebuild but also did what restau-rants do best: Serve their community. One of many examples is Firefly in Panama City Beach, Fla., which had its roof torn off during Hurricane…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 96 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2015 $125 CALIFORNIA Youthfully compact, with tightly wound black currant, bitter plum and dark blueberry notes, this needs time to meld with the charcoal, bay leaf and tar streaks, but the mouthwatering cut on the finish suggests that won’t be a problem. Offers a long echo of juniper at the end. Best from 2023 through 2040. 2,250 cases made.—J.M. 95 Force Majeure Parabellum Coulee Red Mountain 2016 $40 WASHINGTON A red with style and presence, offering a big but refined structure, with vibrant blackberry, smoky meat and cracked pepper flavors that build plushness and richness on the finish. Syrah and…