Indholdsfortegnelse for May 31, 2020 i Wine Spectator

We are now living in a golden age for Napa Valley wine. It feels so powerful that it’s hard to believe how recently the region began its ascent—in the 1930s, just after the Repeal of Prohibition. In fact, this extraordinary era can be traced in a single life span, through the remarkable story of Robin Lail, the subject of our cover story in this issue. Lail is the daughter of John Daniel Jr., who as the owner of Inglenook made some of Napa’s best wines in the 1930s and onward through his sale of the estate in the mid-1960s. Robert Mondavi hired Lail in the 1970s, and she later worked for Bill Harlan, helping him transform Meadowood Estate into a gathering place for Napa Valley vintners. Now she is running…

Icons of Chile Chile’s heritage is rooted in France, primarily Bordeaux. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère are the key varieties, along with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. All of the wines here are varietal bottlings, which must be 85%. The Pinot Noir from Concha y Toro is the lone offering not inspired by Bordeaux, though still tracing its lineage to France. CONCHA Y TORO Pinot Noir Limari Valley Marques de Casa Concha 2018 (91, $25) Red fruit, berry, spice, forest floor, mineral; lithe VIÑA TARAPACÁ Carmenere Maipo Valley Gran Reserva 2018 (91, $18) Concentrated; dark fruit, Asian spice, dried mint, bittersweet chocolate COUSIÑO-MACUL Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Antiguas Reservas 2017 (90, $17) Cherry, currant, plum, mineral, green herbs; lithe, focused VIÑA MONTES Carmenere Colchagua Valley Alpha 2018 (90, $22) Intense,…

ALDO SAYS Sauvignon Blanc is a little tricky because it’s a louder variety. Sauvignon Blanc has a lot of green components; it’s very floral. For me, it often has passion fruit, pineapple, gooseberry and bell pepper. It’s very aromatically loud.” Jean Pabiot & Fils Pouilly-Fumé Domaine des Fines Caillottes 2018 | 89 | $28 WS Classic aromas and flavors of grapefruit and gooseberry mark this vibrant version, with bright acidity running throughout. Spice notes emerge on the well-defined finish. Drink now through 2025. 4,000 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—A.Z. ALDO You can see what heat does. It was a long, hot growing season. It’s a father and son, all-biodynamic [producer]. Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough Te Muna 2018 | 90 | $22 WS Peach, pear and pineapple flavors are fresh…

96Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2016 $500 FRANCE This is fragrant and complex, exhibiting sandalwood, vanilla, violet, black cherry and black currant aromas and flavors. Supple and fluid, balanced by fine supporting tannins and a long, fruit-, spice- and mineral-tinged aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2043. 144 cases imported.—B.S. 95Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas La Louvée 2017 $110 FRANCE This brims with velvety açaí berry, blueberry and blackberry reduction flavors that spill forth easily, guided by violet, lavender, bay leaf and singed san-dalwood notes. The long finish reveals a tug of fresh earth, flowing through beautifully. Best from 2022 through 2040. 420 cases made, 100 cases imported.—J.M. 95Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Gravas del Maipo 2017 $70 CHILE Precise and powerful, with fleshy richness to the dark…

90Casas del Bosque Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley Reserva 2019 $13 CHILE Plush, with juicy energy to the ripe apple, pear and gooseberry flavors. Creamy midpalate, leading to a finish that lingers with dried green herbal notes. Drink now. 10,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—K.M. 90Dashwood Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $15 NEW ZEALAND Aromatic and distinc-tive, with a thread of honeysuckle and litsea oil mingling with Meyer lemon, peach and apricot flavors that are gen-erous and intense through the finish, showing a touch of savory sea salt. Drink now. 80,000 cases made, 30,000 cases imported.—M.W. 90Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley 2019 $14 NEW ZEALAND Whiffs of spice and smoke add a savory accent to the core of pear, lemon and tangerine flavors. Fresh, juicy acidity and a dash of hon-eysuckle…

94 Clemens Busch Riesling Auslese Mosel Marienburg Falkenlay 2017 $68 375ml Richly flavored but maintains elegance, featuring a firm backbone of acidity and minerally details. Stunning and multilayered, with new elements emerging with each sip. Slate, apricot jam, burnt sugar, honeysuckle and kumquat fruit notes are the most prominent, leading to a long, mineral-laced fin-ish. Drink now through 2040. 20 cases imported.—A.Z. 94 Immich-Batterieberg Riesling Mosel Zeppwingert 2017 $68 Shows wonderful integration of acidity, with subtle sweetness, but the crunchy miner-ality and silky texture make this truly outstanding. Offers notes of passion fruit and persimmon, as well as floral hints. Best from 2021 through 2032. 84 cases made.—A.Z. 94 Egon Müller Riesling Spätlese Mosel Scharzhofberger 2018 $236 Moving graciously on the palate, combining intensity and grace, this spätlese features orchard…

Back Issue Bonus I have been a subscriber to Wine Spectator magazine since 1999 and have saved every issue, as I enjoy referring back to them for information and ideas about wines and wine regions. For example, we recently took (another) trip to Sonoma County. I perused my library of back issues and found the June 15, 2018, issue, which featured the history and attractions of Sonoma County. We re-read the articles, taking notes on wineries to visit and places to eat. I applaud Wine Spectator for featuring wine destination travel and hope the great issues keep coming. Kevin Stein and Amanda Heilbron Atlanta, Ga. Great Wine North In 2019, Canada imported CA$484.9 million of California wines and grape must as the No. 1 single-country export market for California wines.…

From the earliest episodes of Julia Child’s The French Chef to the game-changing competition shows Iron Chef and Top Chef, cooking shows have become a television genre in their own right. But have you had the opportunity to dine at a restaurant run by one of the chefs you’ve followed on screen? Helmed by colorful characters you’re sure to recognize, the six establishments profiled below also boast robust Wine Spectator Restaurant Award–winning wine lists that offer something for everyone. Grand Award Daniel 60 E. 65th St., New York Telephone (212) 288-0033 Website danielnyc.com Open Dinner, Monday to Saturday Esteemed French chef Daniel Boulud runs his elegant flagship restaurant alongside head sommelier Raj Vaidya. Boulud called his TV show, After Hours With Daniel Boulud, a “show without a script,” but at this restaurant, the prix-fixe menus and…

In 2019, worldwide wine and spirits auction totals (including sales held in the U.S., U.K., Geneva and Hong Kong, plus online) rose to $521 million, up 9% from $479 million in 2018. That’s bullish, if not as dramatic as 2018’s 26% surge. Burgundy continued to boom, while Bordeaux remained a solid draw. But the biggest growth came from the small but flourishing market for rare spirits. Sales in New York climbed a hefty 20% to $157 million. In Europe, London and Geneva, they rose a combined 19% to $55 million. Hong Kong totals increased 17% to $160 million. And online was up 8% to $81 million. (All figures rounded for this story.) Among the major auction houses, Zachys led the pack, with a substantial $122 million in overall sales (up…

Dick Arrowood has been a leader in Sonoma winemaking for 55 years. Now he’s leaving the biz for good. Richard Arrowood is about as Sonoma County as they come. He was raised here, and his family has called the county home for generations. His mother and grandmother both attended tiny Alexander Valley school. It was just a technicality that Arrowood wasn’t born in Sonoma—his mother was on a shopping trip in San Francisco when he surprised her. He recalls riding as a child in the family’s ’53 DeSoto to Sebastiani Winery, where his dad refilled the Arrowoods’ empty wine jug. In his 55 years of winemaking, Arrowood focused almost exclusively on Sonoma. His Chardonnays at Chateau St. Jean in the 1970s helped set the standard for the category in California,…

Château Lynch Bages Pauillac 2009 | 96 | $150 WS Tight and backward, this has dense, almost chewy layers of fig, currant and plum cake behind a very solid wall of cedar, roasted vanilla and charcoal notes. There’s serious grip on the finish, with an iron edge that won’t quit. Best from 2015 through 2035. 31,500 cases made.—J.M. ALDO It’s interesting to see Old World technique and philosophy. This is a benchmark. The tannins grip for a long time. Corison Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2013 | 88 | $90 WS Aromas of loamy earth, clay and road tar underscore the moderate ripeness. Anise- and graphite-laced plum flavors form the core. Expands slowly. Drink now through 2028. NA cases made.—J.L. ALDO They’re in that camp of big Cabs, but [vintner Cathy…

After withstanding years of hail, frost and drought, Burgundy domaines were blessed in 2017 with a Pinot Noir harvest that provided quantity as well as quality. It was the first vintage to deliver on both fronts since 2009, with the past several harvests resulting in cellars that were half-empty, or worse. But in 2017 there were smiles on vintners’ faces as their cellars were once again full. Louis Jadot technical director Frédéric Barnier noted in January 2019 that the 2017s were a good example of a vintage made by aging. “The reds went through malolactic early, before Christmas,” he told me at the time. “Some people said it’s a year you want to bottle early, but I won’t touch the wines before March or April [of 2019]. They need time…

93Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $17 NEW ZEALAND Stylish, generous and intense, featuring lemon curd, apricot and lime sherbet flavors that are vivid and mouthwatering, accented by details of matcha green tea, white pepper and passion fruit. Shows excellent follow-through on the finish. Drink now. 48,000 cases made, 12,000 cases imported.—M.W. 92Bodegas Godeval Godello Valdeorras 2018 $19 SPAIN This bold white has a rich texture, backed by firm acidity. Pear and passion fruit flavors are supported by ginger, mineral and spice notes. Shows a tropi-cal character, yet remains focused and clean. Drink now through 2023. 3,000 cases made, 800 cases imported.—T.M. 92Soléna Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Grande Cuvée 2018 $30 OREGON Sleekly structured and savory, with expressive raspberry, violet and smoky tea accents that pick up speed toward refined…

95 Hickinbotham Cabernet-Shiraz McLaren Vale The Peake 2017 $150 Aromatic, detailed, gen-erous and plush, featuring notes of cream soda and milk chocolate that add a touch of polish to the concentrated kirsch, spiced plum and blueberry flavors at the core. The details of cigar box, espresso and palo santo show appeal-ing precision, exhibiting harmony on the long, expressive finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now through 2035. 120 cases made, 100 cases imported.—M.W.94 Two Hands Shiraz Barossa Valley Coach House Block Single Vineyard Seppeltsfield Road Greenock 2017 $125 Fragrant and distinctive, with wild blueberry and açaí berry flavors at the core, accented by details of Earl Grey tea, white pepper and cocoa powder. The tannins are dense but polished, imparting a wonderful sense of power and seamlessness that runs through…

93 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $31 Vibrant and expressive, with bold Key lime, passion fruit and tangerine flavors that are succulent and show off details of litsea, lemon verbena and makrut lime leaf, accented by a vibrant thread of acidity. Drink now. 65,000 cases imported.—M.W. 93 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $17 See Smart Buys, page 94. 92 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Wild Sauvignon 2017 $29 Succulent white peach, apricot and lemon curd flavors are wonderfully lush and complex, with whiffs of beeswax, powdered ginger and lemongrass that linger on a juicy frame. Drink now. 700 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough The Paper Nautilus 2017 $49 Succulent and rich up front, with flavors of peach preserves and candied ginger that end up vivid and refreshing.…

92 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Bellows 2018 $34 Peach, singed almond and beeswax notes give this a rich yet tense feel, with a zing of grapefruit oil lining the finish. Drink now through 2024. 50 cases made.—J.M 91 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry Peach Orchard 2018 $28 This is focused, with nectarine and bitter almond notes spliced together, backed by citrus oil and jasmine accents on the finish. Sneaky long. Drink now through 2023. 130 cases made.—J.M. 91 Forge Riesling Seneca Lake Dry Railroad 2018 $28 Lively and unctuous, with a mix of clemen-tine, nectarine and jasmine oil notes, backed by a pink grapefruit detail on the finish. Outgoing and distinctive. Drink now through 2023. 100 cases made.—J.M. 90 Fox Run Riesling Seneca Lake Hanging Delta 2016 $30 Quince, almond…

New leadership at Brunello’s Biondi-Santi is investing in the future while respecting the iconic estate’s past. In 2017, when French luxury firm EPI bought majority ownership of Montalcino’s iconic brand Biondi-Santi and the historic Il Greppo estate (where Brunello di Montalcino was created), the deal attracted a lot of attention from the press and local community. However, the denomination’s flagship property got a much-needed injection of capital. After the initial transition—which retained Jacopo Biondi Santi and his son Tancredi—Giampiero Bertolini, a 16-year veteran of Marchesi Frescobaldi, was hired as CEO. In May 2019, EPI bought the remaining Biondi Santi family’s shares, retaining Tancredi as brand ambassador and part of the technical team blending the wines. “We were … very clear that we do not do revolution, but only evolution, and…

ALDO SAYS Champagne is one of the most food-friendly wines. You could do a whole menu with just Champagne. You can’t do that with white Burgundy. Most people love fried chicken. Sparkling wine has sugar. The bubbles cut through the fat. The sugar kind of coats the fat, a little bit like foie gras. You take something that is typically a little heavy and you give it shine and brighten it up.” Nino Franco Brut Vino Spumante Grave di Stecca 2012 | 90 | $49 WS An aromatic sparkler, with rich minerality and hints of spice and tea rose to the green melon and lemon curd flavors. Finely knit and elegant overall, with a lasting finish accented by mineral and spice. Drink now through 2021. 917 cases made.—A.N. ALDO To…

All agree that rosé has come a long way over the past decade. Many of the category’s fans were drawn initially to the wines’ accessible character and painless pricing. But increasingly, wine lovers are looking beyond low-priced quaffs to more serious bottlings from myriad grapes and top producers around the world. With so many choices, it can sometimes be hard to winnow the field. Here, sommeliers from Wine Spectator Restaurant Award–winners steer you toward the promised land of ageable pinks, diverse styles and intriguing pairings. How has the rosé section of your list evolved in recent years? Rosés from Provence, including the subregions of Bandol and Cassis, are typically blends starring Grenache and Mourvédre. BRIAN PHILLIPS Corporate wine director, Darden Restaurants 126 RESTAURANT AWARD WINNERS In the past, rosé may…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of addi-tional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus…

92 Domaine Labruyère Moulin-à-Vent Le Clos 2017 $68 An elegant Gamay, with a focused, miner-ally undertone flanking the raspberry and currant flavors, interwoven with smoke, espresso and herb details. Hints of cola, spice and black tea linger into the brooding fin-ish. Drink now through 2025. 50 cases imported.—G.S. 91 Domaine Labruyère Moulin-à-Vent Coeur de Terroirs Vieilles Vignes 2017 $28 Light-bodied, with complexity to the glossy currant and cherry notes, accented by smoke, mineral and savory spice details. Light, supple tannins encase the herb and floral accents on the lightly tannic finish. Drink now through 2024. 225 cases imported.—G.S. 90 Stéphane Aviron Morgon Côte du Py Vieilles Vignes 2017 $25 This light-bodied red shows charm, with an aromatic profile displaying raspberry, peach and spice notes, lined with rose water and mineral…

93 Lewis Chardonnay Napa Valley 2018 $55 Well-knit and powerfully structured, with unctuous fla-vors of ripe pear, apple pastry and dried mango, filled with toasty notes. The creamy finish lingers with hints of dried sage and quince paste. Drink now through 2025. 2,400 cases made.—K.M. 92 Ram’s Gate Chardonnay Russian River Valley El Diablo Vineyard 2017 $70 Plush and open-textured, with crunchy acidity backing the apple pastry, dried mango, ripe citrus and pear flavors. Spicy midpalate, leading to a complex, layered finish that offers angel food cake and sage cream accents, showing some mineral com-ponents in the mix. Drink now through 2024. 590 cases made.—K.M. 91 August Briggs Chardonnay Carneros Leveroni Vineyard 2018 $30 This pure-tasting style offers loads of minerality, featuring crisp apple and pear flavors that create a…