Indholdsfortegnelse for December 15, 2020 i Wine Spectator

This issue is an epicure’s delight, featuring mouth-watering coverage of two delicious pleasures: soft cheeses and sparkling wines. Soft cheeses are made in many styles. Some are subtle and fresh; think mozzarella or goat cheese. Others are rich, oozing and funky, like Époisses or Munster. Or they can fall in between, creamy and sweet, such as Camembert and Brie. Our cover package highlights six different types of soft cheeses, comparing classic examples from Europe with rising stars from the U.S. Three experts serve as guides: David Gibbons, who contributes the Cheese column to our Grapevine section; Robert Taylor, assistant managing editor of WineSpectator.com and co-author of our recent cover story “Cheese Across America”; and Owen Dugan, Wine Spectator features editor. In these pages, Gibbons, Taylor and Dugan explain how these…

Ken Evenstad Ken Evenstad, who made his fortune in the pharmaceutical business before building one of Oregon’s most prominent wineries, Domaine Serene, died at his home Oct. 21 after a history of chronic pulmonary issues. He was 77. Oregon’s wine industry was young when Ken and his wife, Grace, arrived 31 years ago, looking for land to plant a vineyard. They settled on a 42-acre property on the southernmost peak of the Dundee Hills. The Evenstads grew the business over the years and today own 1,000 acres, with 300 planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The couple has been instrumental in promoting Oregon wines outside the Pacific Northwest. They also sparked wine tourism in the region and helped create the Center for Wine Education at nearby Linfield College. “[Ken] dared…

Due West Here’s an interesting group of values from the West Coast, with inspiration from Italy and France. Tablas Creek is well-known for its Southern Rhône–style wines, such as the Patelin de Tablas red, yet the white found in this selection takes the Italian name, Vermentino, rather than Rolle, commonly used in southern France. The Sans Wine Co. is sold as a 375ml can. TABLAS CREEK Vermentino Adelaida District 2019 (91, $27) Intense, crisp; poached pear, Meyer lemon, pomelo, white pepper, toasted almond, sea salt J. CHRISTOPHER Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Basalte 2017 (92, $30) Raspberry, crushed stone, herbal tea; refined, expressive MERISI Pinot Gris Los Carneros 2019 (90, $24) Elegant, precise; Meyer lemon, pear, orange blossom, matcha green tea TABLAS CREEK Patelin de Tablas Paso Robles 2018 (90, $25)…

Australia lost a pioneer of new wave wines with the recent death of vintner Taras Ochota. Following a long illness, Ochota died in October, two months shy of his 50th birthday. Ochota was a rock star a few times over. Besides his winemaking creds, he played bass in the punk band Kranktus in the mid-’90s. When the Rolling Stones toured Australia in 2014, they stopped for lunch at Ochota Barrels; before leaving, they bought out Ochota’s inventory, because of course they did. Ochota represented the leading edge of a winemaking movement in the Basket Range of Adelaide Hills that champions fresh, low-intervention wines with modest alcohol levels, made in a lighter style than what Australia is widely known for. The Ochota Barrels wines, made from organically grown grapes purchased from…

As with other types, their historical origins are somewhat obscure. Columella, the great Roman chronicler of agronomy, described recipes for cheeses resembling modern soft ones in the first century A.D.; they emerged in earnest, mostly in France, from the early Middle Ages. Today we group them into three major categories: fresh, so-called lactic types (think Loire Valley goat cheeses like Crottin de Chavignol and Sainte-Maure); bloomy rinds (Brie and Camembert); and washed rinds (Époisses and Munster). Typically made in wheels, weighing a pound or less, they’re the ultimate farmstead artifacts. The fresh and bloomy types were originally made by the farmer’s wife in her kitchen, often from the milk of the family’s single cow, and were intended to be eaten within a week. In the monasteries, additional manpower and economies…

Many consider these decadent, unctuous gems to be the pinnacle of cheesemaking. Yet they literally cannot stand on their own: Without their wood containers they would soon collapse into a gooey puddle. These cheeses are members of the washed-rind contingent, but their pungent top rinds are typically removed and discarded to reveal a glistening scoopable paste that at the firm end bears the texture of custard and that softens both as it ages and as it warms to room temperature. Among the examples are the bark-wrapped subcategory, most of which are available only in the fall and winter. What they all have in common is a cult following smitten by mouthcoating flavors of salty bacon, roast meats, vegetables, butterscotch and nuts. IDEAL SERVING TEMPERATURE FOR CHEESE IS 70°–75° F Cold…

For a socially distanced party AFFORDABLE POURS THAT WILL STILL IMPRESS Peter Carillo WINE DIRECTOR Angler, Los Angeles When I think I’ll need a full case of wine for an event, I typically start with a basic set of criteria: It has to be relatively inexpensive, it has to be crowd-pleasing (as in, easy-drinking), lend itself to pairing with a wide range of foods, and of course be delicious. The wine that comes to mind is Julián Ostolaza Manterola’s flinty and refreshing Gañeta Getariako Txakolina. If this wine were a person you met at a cocktail party, you might not remember their name but you’d certainly find yourself saying, “Weren’t they delightful?” As a bonus, you’ll love listening to your tipsy guests try to read the numerous tongue-twisters on the…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus…

Malbec 95 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae 2017 $140 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 94 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Argentino 2017 $140 Elegant, fine-textured flavors of red fruit and red berry are backed by suave, mediumgrained tannins. Silky midpalate, with a long, mineralfilled finish that features lively sanguine and light savory accents. Drink now through 2026. 1,900 cases made.—K.M. 94 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley Jose Zuccardi 2016 $45 Explosively fruity aromas and flavors of blackberry, dark cherry and plum tart are creamy and filled with rich savory and cooking spice accents. Powerfully structured, showing dark chocolate and mocha on the finish, with hints of dried mint. Drink now through 2025. 5,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—K.M. 92 El Enemigo Gran Mendoza 2016 $90 Well-structured…

90 Covenant Israel Viognier Israel Blue C 2019 $28 Refreshing acidity supports the supple flavors of pineapple, tangerine and white blossom in this aromatic white, with underpinnings of wet stone, honey cream and spice sailing along the finish. Kosher. Drink now through 2023. 700 cases made, 400 cases imported.—G.S. 90 Recanat i Carignan Judean Hills Wild Reserve 2018 $49 This concentrated red shows nice depth, with raspberry tart and ripe currant notes matched with floral, anise and mineral details. Fleshy tannins gain traction on the richly spiced finish. Kosher. Drink now through 2025. 550 cases made, 125 cases imported.—G.S. 89 Recanati Petite Sirah Galilee Reserve 2018 $32 This red shows nice concentration, with ripe boysenberry, mocha and blackberry flavors that are edged with floral, savory spice and briary details. Chewy…

91 Buitenverwachting Chardonnay Constantia Bayten 2018 $20 A riper style, but with great vibrancy from the acidity. Features a creamy texture and notes of persimmon and brioche, with salted butter accents in the background. Balanced, long and creamy, with a seductive savory mineral element on the long finish. Drink now through 2026. 300 cases imported.—A.Z. 91 De Toren Fusion V Stellenbosch 2017 $60 Pure, with grippy tannins behind the lush notes of blackberry, currant and tobacco. Shows good length and depth, but might be a bit grippy for some; definitely for the fans of the firmer style. Still, a well-made red. Best from 2021 through 2028. 4,149 cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.Z. 91 Vilafonte Seriously Old Dirt Paarl 2017 $47 An alluring style, with an old-school hint, showing notes of…

Chardonnay 90 Baileyana Chardonnay Edna Valley Firepeak 2018 $28 Well-spiced, with a backbone of sea salt and savory herbal accents to the dried white fruit and berry flavors. Buttered toast notes on the firm finish. Drink now through 2024. 5,578 cases made.—K.M. 90 San Simeon Chardonnay Monterey Estate Reserve 2017 $25 See Smart Buys, page 91. 89 Baileyana Chardonnay Edna Valley Paragon Vineyard 2018 $20 Quite toasty, with firm white fruit and spice flavors backed by fresh acidity. Savory snap on the structured finish, with quince paste notes. Drink now through 2023. 3,485 cases made.—K.M. 89 Hahn Chardonnay Monterey County 2018 $15 See Best Values, page 91. 89 Lafond Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills SRH 2018 $25 Baked apple and dried pear flavors feature marmalade accents. Spicy finish features honeyed notes.…

Gripping New Wine Documentaries “What do you know about wine?” Serge Hochar, the late, legendary dean of Lebanese wine at Château Musar, asked filmmaker Mark Johnston in 2013. “Nothing,” Johnston confessed, before a tasting that showed him the light. So began the journey culminating in Johnston’s new documentary, Wine and War, which dives into one of the world’s oldest and most dangerous wine regions. Over the course of eight vintages, Johnston and fellow filmmaker Mark Ryan faced real risks: During filming in 2017, nearby Damascus was under heavy shelling, and ISIS battles raged just miles away. Also released in October, Wine Crush (Vas-y Coup!), follows second-generation vigneron Anselme Selosse and his team of beer-drinkers and hell-raisers, who make some of the world’s most coveted grower Champagnes. Filmmaker Laura Naylor wanted…

What are Americans drinking? The U.S. wine market continues to grow, defying predictions of decline. But not all wines are enjoying better times, and this year’s pandemic and economic upheaval are only making things more challenging. The latest report from Impact Databank, a sibling publication of Wine Spectator, shows a complex market, with strong growth from sparkling wines and rosé offsetting slowing table wine sales, particularly for value-priced brands. The U.S. wine market grew again last year, but by a mere 0.1% to 328.9 million cases. According to Impact’s report “The U.S. Wine Market: 2020 Edition,”wine consumption is projected to inch forward 0.2% in 2020 to 329.5 million cases. But the report forecasts consumption will decrease 0.3% by 2025. A variety of long-term factors are at play. Wine has enjoyed…

“I like things that are as difficult as possible,”says Bob Broskey, executive chef of RPM Seafood in Chicago. “I don’t like to be bored.” When the fine seafood restaurant opened in January of this year, he had no idea just how difficult things were about to become—but the same principles that first attracted him to the rigors of upscale dining, and to the delicacy of seafood cooking, have applied to the pandemic too. In a fine-dining kitchen, he explains, there’s really no “normal”to settle into; one can never get too comfortable. “You can’t really rely on what you did yesterday,”he reflects. “Every day, you’ve got to keep pushing forward.” This summer and fall, the restaurant focused on its sprawling 86-seat patio, with sweeping views of the Chicago River and the…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 COLENE CLEMENS Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Margo 2017 $38 OREGON Distinctive for the elegance, yet with subtle power simmering underneath, this offers raspberry and crushed stone notes, with hints of cardamom, building tension toward medium-grained tannins. COLLECTIBLE 97 LOUIS ROEDERER Brut Champagne Cristal 2012 $279 FRANCE A classic beauty, fresh and focused today but with a harmonious grace of form suggesting a long career ahead, with finely detailed flavors of poached quince, Mandarin orange preserves, toasted almond and pickled ginger. SMART BUY 90 SAN SIMEON Chardonnay Monterey Estate Reserve 2017 $25 CALIFORNIA Rich and hedonistic, with a pillowy texture, this is filled with plush white fruit flavors, showing a luscious butteriness on the finish, with roasted pineapple notes. BEST VALUE 89 BODEGAS BRECA Vino de Espana Rose…

Set an Example When setting out whole cheeses for guests, cut the first slice from each piece to indicate how the cheese should be cut. And be sure to provide a separate knife or spreader for each cheese. There’s a subcategory of soft-ripened, bloomy-rind cheeses that comprises extra-creamy versions. These are the doubleand triple-creams. In the simplest of terms, these cheeses are made by adding extra cream before the curds and whey are separated, giving them a signature buttery, spreadable character. In France, a double-cream is by law between 60% and 75% butterfat; a triple-cream is at least 75% butterfat. Brillat-Savarin is the original triple-cream and remains the indulgent category’s flag-bearer. Triple-creams are typically made from cow’s milk, and they’re aged for just a few weeks, resulting in a thin,…

An enthusiastic newbie WINES TO EXPAND THEIR HORIZONS Amy Racine WINE DIRECTOR 701West, New York I think Barolo is a great way to go. Giacomo Grimaldi is a great one, and their Barolo is like 30 bucks. Barolo is such a classic region, so it’s a good place to start, explaining that it’s [made from] a thin-skinned grape and it’s known for being very tannic. I think it’s very aromatic and it’s not something that you struggle to find tasting notes for. If you throw out that it smells like fennel seed and salumi and rose petal and cherry, it’s like, “Oh yeah, I get that right away.” So I think it’s a good confidence-building wine, too. Gabriel Di Bella, DAVIES AND BROOK—It is really difficult to pick a specific…

The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Bollinger Brut Champagne La Grande Annee 2012 $175 FRANCE This goes from zero to 60 right out of the gate, with an intense spine of acidity driving tightly meshed flavors of crushed black currant, ground coffee, candied grapefruit peel and toasted almond. The profile expands on the palate, carried by the fine, raw silk–like mousse. Richly aromatic and expressive from start to lasting, spiced finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2037. 850 cases imported.—A.N. 95 Azelia Barolo Cerretta 2016 $139 ITALY Scents of rose, tar, cherry and black currant rise from the glass of this dense, supple red. Firm, polished tannins take hold as this evolves…

92 Craggy Range Te Kahu Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Hawkes Bay 2018 $22 NEW ZEALAND Sophisticated, with touches of black walnut liqueur, kirsch and spicy tobacco. Cardamom, blueberry and cedar notes linger, with dense, toothsome tannins. Fragrant and balanced on the finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2035. 7,900 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—M.W. 91 Bodegas Faustino Rioja V Reserva 2014 $23 SPAIN Bright and appealing, this red has energy, with lively cherry, berry and licorice flavors accented by spice, floral and citrus notes. Fresh acidity and light tannins keep it focused. Drink now through 2024. 2,000 cases imported.—T.M. 91 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley Q 2019 $20 ARGENTINA This rich red offers a deep well of cherry, dark plum and wild herb flavors…

90 De Bortoli Shiraz-Grenache Heathcote Villages 2017 $25 Rich, with juicy raspberry puree, kirsch, plum compote and matcha green tea flavors that sing out with a mouthwatering acidity, balanced with firm, chalky, earthy tannins on the finish. Shiraz and Grenache. Drink now through 2030. 2,068 cases made, 200 cases imported.—M.W. 90 Levantine Hill Syrah Yarra Valley 2016 $55 Tangy cherry and berry flavors are juicy and vibrant, with a hint of dried lavender, white pepper and white truffle. Earl Grey tea, cedar and baking spice notes linger on the aromatic finish, with velvety tannins. Drink now through 2030. 1,480 cases made, 99 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Cullen Red Moon Wilyabrup Mangan Vineyard Margaret River 2018 $29 Restrained, firm and savory, offering rustic tannins and notes of iron and mineral that complement…

Piedmont 96 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche Riserva 2014 $500 See Collectibles, page 90. 95 Elio Altare Barolo Vigna Bricco Cerretta Riserva 2014 $136 Intense, forthcoming aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberry, tar, iron and vanilla draw you in, while the structure is there, yet not overbearing. This red delivers a little more fruit and less austerity than is typical of the vintage. Best from 2024 through 2043. 292 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S. 95 Azelia Barolo Cerretta 2016 $139 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 95 Falletto di Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto 2016 $250 This pretty red offers distinctive mint, black tea, cherry, tar, iron and tobacco aromas and flavors. Firm and dry, with the tobacco and tea notes echoing on the finish. Shows plenty of…

Rioja 95 Bodega 202 Rioja Ansa 2015 $50 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 94 Larchago Rioja Izarbe Gran Reserva 2006 $70 While displaying mature flavors of tobacco, dried currant and candied orange peel, this is still fresh, remaining fresh and balanced, with mineral and savory elements balanced by fruit and spice. Very few wines from 2006 are new releases, and this bottling shows the virtues of patience in Rioja. Drink now. 1,150 cases made, 450 cases imported.—T.M. 92 Bodegas Bagordi Rioja Navardia Organic Crianza 2015 $21 This aromatic red offers sandalwood, vanilla, nutmeg and tea. It’s supple, with dried cherry, vanilla, forest floor and spice flavors. Light tannins and gentle acidity give it focus without weight. Balanced, elegant. Tempranillo, Graciano and Grenache. Drink now through 2023. 3,000 cases made, 300…

Pinot Noir 94 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Margo 2017 $38 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 93 Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard Block 8 Clone 777 2017 $125 Distinctive and refined, with raspberry and hints of blueberry plus blood orange and smoky tarragon that build sleek richness toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2028. 106 cases made.—T.F. 93 Alexana Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Revana Vineyard Single Clone Pommard 2017 $75 Refined and savory, with structure and expression, this red offers dark raspberry, black tea and spiced licorice flavors that gather richness along the way to refined tannins. Drink now through 2028. 302 cases made.—T.F. 93 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Renegade Ridge Vineyard 2017 $90 Shows polish and a detailed structure, with refined raspberry, orange…

The current crop of California Merlot on the market continues an encouraging trend of improved quality and rising respect for this noble Bordeaux variety. The center of the action is Napa Valley, where the warm, dry growing season and variety of terroirs, from the cool Carneros district to steep mountainside vineyards, produce wines in a wide range of styles. “I continue to believe Merlot has a bright future. Given the dynamics of the current economy, I think Merlot offers a great value with a lot of versatility. It can be a serious wine that will lay down for 20 years or one that will pair beautifully now with your favorite food,”says winemaker Renée Ary of Merlot powerhouse Duckhorn Vineyards. Merlot typically features gentler tannins and more opentextured flavors than its…

The climate of California is defined by seasonal drought: In most of the state, it typically doesn’t rain from mid-April through October or November. The sere hillsides of the dry season are usually transformed into a verdant panorama by cool, winter rains sweeping in from the Pacific. Grapegrowing is (mostly) only possible with supplemental irrigation provided by precipitation captured in ponds and reservoirs during the rainy season. Yet since 2000—and especially since 2010—something seems to have upset this balance. The rains are coming later and later in the fall—if they come at all, with attendant drought conditions. That was the setup for the four years prior to 2017, when a run of devastating fires really took off, hitting wine country especially hard. Consecutive dry years in California are nothing new.…

Unlike aged cheeses, there is no ripening process for fresh cheeses: They’re ready to eat the day they’re made. Many of these fresh cheeses, such as fromage blanc, cottage cheese and ricotta, are staples of our daily lives that are rarely given a critical eye. But one type inspires fierce loyalty and connoisseurship around the world: Mozzarella. Mozzarella is a “stretched” or “pulled” cheese, made in the pasta filata method: Fresh curds are heated in salted water, kneaded together and then stretched, or “spun,” into thick ropes before being divided into balls, which can range in size from perline (large pearls) to ciliegine (cherry size) to bocconcini (golf balls) to ovaline (eggs) to full 24-ounce balls. It’s typically mild in flavor but should be subtly salty and milky and, as…

These are the cheese world’s most notorious characters—the so-called “stinky” cheeses, their intensely aromatic profiles a product of their washed rinds. Reviled by some but revered by fans, their powerful aromas of sweat-drenched socks and crowded cowshed announce their presence from across a room. But beneath their pungent, pinkish-orange rinds lie flavor-packed, fudgy-textured pastes that can span the spectrum from earthy and mushroomy to fruity, nutty, vegetal and meaty.…

“What is California wine?” asks Sonoma-based winemaker Martha Stoumen. “Sonoma Pinot? Napa Cab? There are so many regions outside of those that are not defined yet—and need more exploration.” Stoumen is part of a growing movement of inspired winemakers in the Golden State who are working with red grapes besides Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Zinfandel. This crusade is made up almost entirely of small producers who specialize in single-variety (and in some cases, single-vineyard) bottlings and blends produced from a range of off-the-radar grapes. Many don’t own their own vineyards and work instead with small growers hoping to express their unique sites in low-intervention styles. Over the past year, I undertook my first survey of California’s alternative reds, reviewing more than 100 in blind tastings at our Napa…

Chalonnaise 91 Château de Chamirey Mercurey Clos L’Eveque 2017 $50 This red is firm and tense, yet there is a concentrated kernel of cherry, cherry pit, mineral and oak spice at the core. The saturated fruit along with the dense texture lends a chewy feel. Drink now through 2028. 450 cases made, 80 cases imported.—B.S. 91 Joseph Drouhin Rully 2018 $32 A top note of mint introduces this flowing white, which is brimming with peach, apple and mineral flavors. The texture balances creaminess and lively acidity, and this ends with a lingering pastrylike finish. Drink now through 2024. 600 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Chateau de Chamirey Mercurey Clos du Roi 2017 $50 A pungent mix of cherry, raspberry, iron and earth flavors marks this ripe, fluid red, which is lively and…

Sauvignon Blanc 94 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Section 94 2018 $38 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 90 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $18 See Smart Buys, page 91. 90 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $20 See Smart Buys, page 91. 89 Jackson Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Shelter Bay Estate Stich 2019 $17 Peach, nectarine and yellow apple flavors are mouthwatering on a sleek frame, followed by touches of honeysuckle and dried ginger on the finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Palliser Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough 2019 $20 Ruby grapefruit, passionfruit and pineapple flavors are fresh and juicy on a crisp frame, the intensity gaining on the finish. Drink now. 6,500 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Smith & Sheth Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Cru Wairau 2019…