Indholdsfortegnelse for May 31, 2021 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/053121 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS MOTHER’S DAY TIPS Planning a big day for Mom? Celebrate her with new recipes from some of the country’s best chefs, or peruse our 8 & $20 feature, showcasing easy-to-prepare recipes matched to delicious wines priced at $20 or less. Plus, sign up to receive more recipe suggestions in our free, weekly Sips & Tips email newsletter. STRAIGHT TALK WITH WINE SPECTATOR is an Instagram Live series featuring conversations with wine-and-food newsmakers. Recent editions have featured Penfolds’ Peter Gago, Invivo X by SJP co-founder Sarah Jessica Parker, Grammy-winning Sun Goddess Wines founder Mary J. Blige, Lingua Franca’s Larry Stone, California winemakers Andy Erickson and Thomas Rivers Brown, and chefs Eric Ripert and Emeril…

Now In Our IGTV Archives MARCH 10 Alberto Aiello Graci, owner/winemaker of Sicily’s Graci MARCH 2 Sarah Jessica Parker, co-owner of Invivo X by SJP FEB. 24 Miguel Torres Maczassek, general manager of Spain-based Familia Torres FEB. 17 Peter Gago, chief winemaker for Australia’s iconic Penfolds winery FEB. 10 Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, owner of Bolgheri winery Tenuta San Guido, maker of Sassicaia FEB. 3 Annette Alvarez-Peters, former head of Costco Corp.’s alcohol sales; advisor to Wine Unify JAN. 28 Brice de la Morandiere, managing director at Burgundy’s Domaine Leflaive JAN. 26 Olivier Krug, managing director of Krug Champagne JAN. 22 Marilisa Allegrini, CEO of Italy’s historic Allegrini, based in Valpolicella WATCH ON INSTAGRAM Scan the QR code to start watching on our IGTV channel, or visit instagram.com/wine_spectator/channel…

WineSpectator.com/Dogs After Wine Spectator brought the dogs of California wine country to readers in March, we knew vintners were not the only ones who loved their furry friends. We asked readers to share their own canine companions with us. And you released the hounds—more than 1,000 readers sent in photos and information about their lovable pets, from dogs that sniff-out TCA in wineries or protect vineyard sheep to a therapy dog providing comfort to hospital patients. If you’d like to check out hundreds of adorable pooches, visit our special new Dogs section at the url above for all things Winery Dog. And you can share a photo of your own pup by visiting our gallery submission page. We’d love to add your dog to our family of wine lovers’ companions.…

Among the original class of Napa Valley cult Cabernets, Bryant Family has one of the more intriguing histories. The site is located on prestigious Pritchard Hill. Planted in 1968 and 1971, it had fallen into neglect by the time Don Bryant found it in 1985. A St. Louis native who made his fortune in insurance and then amassed a considerable art collection, Bryant is also a wine lover. So he changed course, built a winery instead, and with Helen Turley as winemaker (1992–2001) began producing one of the valley’s most expensive, and soon most collectible, Cabs. Even so, the start was difficult, and a few years into development Bryant was ready to call it quits. But Turley managed to get the project on stable ground; vintages of the mid-’90s set…

Every story is better when shared over a glass of wine. That’s the philosophy behind Anthony’s What’s in Your Glass?, his homegrown YouTube Live series where celebrity guests join him to share wine and conversation. The more than two-dozen episodes so far, which run from 30 minutes to an hour, have showcased sommelier DLynn Proctor (recounting showing off his skills to Jay Z at the 2014 Super Bowl), Jimmy Butler (reminiscing about his trip to the home of Sassicaia) and actor Jamie Foxx (pouring his go-to-Far Niente Cabernet). Anthony talks about each label and vintage he sips, and asks his guests questions about their drink of choice, how they fell in love with wine, and about wine’s place in the BIPOC community. “I love to see people of color get…

Chilean vintners are looking to stand out in a highly competitive global marketplace. They have advantages when it comes to winemaking, starting with a nearly ideal climate for growing grapes, which allows them to deliver a treasure trove of well-priced red wines, headed by Cabernet Sauvignon along with Bordeaux transplant Carmenère. Yet in a bid to attract a growing number of fans, many producers are also moving to organic viticulture, an increasing focus for consumers. One of the pioneers in the organic movement is Veramonte, in the cool-climate Casablanca district east of Santiago. Spain’s González Byass, a top producer of Sherry that has made sustainability a focus of its Spanish operations, purchased Veramonte in 2017 from the Huneeus family. Chairman Mauricio González Gordon says his company decided to invest in…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South…

Many professional athletes enjoy wine, but few are as passionate about it as the subject of our cover story, NBA star Carmelo Anthony of the Portland Trail Blazers. In this issue, “Melo” shares stories from his 17-year journey in the NBA, an illustrious career that recently earned him the No. 11 spot on the list of all-time leading scorers. Anthony’s interest in wine is not as well-known as his basketball career, but it’s nearly as long in the making. He’s been a student of wine for 15 years. He tells the tale of his love affair, from neophyte to evangelist, as he progressed from drinking white wine by-the-glass to becoming a serious collector and aficionado. Many star players in the NBA credit Anthony for sparking their own interest in wine,…

Value Vanguard Chilean vintners are at the forefront of the global push to offer higher quality at affordable prices, and this group of reds features a range of estates and grape varieties. Malbec, more prevalent in neighboring Argentina, is showcased here by Syrah specialist Polkura. VIÑA POLKURA Malbec Marchigue 2018 (92, $23) Vibrant, luscious, effusive; dark berry, red fruit, slate, spice, mineral CONCHA Y TORO Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Marques de Casa Concha 2018 (91, $22) Dark fruit, spice, dark chocolate, mocha, mineral, dried herbs; lithe, plush VIÑA CASABLANCA Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Nimbus Single Vineyard 2017 (91, $18) Toasty; roasted plum, dark cherry, black olive, dried herbs, mocha, cooking spices VIÑA KOYLE Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Alto Royale Los Lingues Vineyard 2018 (91, $25) Plum, black cherry, berry, hoisin…

So, are you ready for some good news? Wineries and restaurants are priming for better days, and consumers are eagerly anticipating a return to the sweet life. “There’s a lot of pent-up demand,” Rob McMillan, executive vice president of Silicon Valley Bank’s wine division, told me. McMillan is one of California’s most-authoritative analysts on the business of wine. More on what he has to say later. First, a refresher course on how we got here and what has made wine country’s challenges unique. It’s been a wild 15 months in Northern California, and the ramifications of COVID-19 and the 2020 wildfires continue to play out. Like most tourist destinations, Napa and Sonoma have struggled during the pandemic, with last year’s fires yet another punch. It’s not news that restaurant wine…

There are many wine lovers in today’s NBA. A peek at some top players’ social media accounts reveals that fine wine is a shared part of the lifestyle: Images of flights, hotels and teammates interspersed with great bottles. New Orleans Pelicans guard Josh Hart’s wine cellar has its own Instagram account. Miami Heat star Jimmy Butler freely admits his infatuation with pricey bottles such as Sassicaia and Château Lynch-Bages. JJ Redick has a soft spot for grands crus Burgundies. “@kingjames,” LeBron likes to post tasting flights of Chassagne-Montrachet, Quintarelli Amarone and Napa’s Mayacamas Cabernet. We caught up with three players at different stages of their wine journey to learn about how and why the NBA is leading the pack when it comes to professional athletes and wine. T.J. McConnell Point…

As a chef and as a home gardener, José Andrés is a huge proponent of getting closer to your food source. The freshest produce is now available to everyone, even if you don’t have a green thumb. A number of companies are making the same technologies used for large-scale urban farming, like hydroponics and LED lighting, available for home growers. “You hear stories about people quitting their jobs and buying a farm so they can have the experience of getting back to nature and reconnecting with their food. With us, you can have that experience without the risk or the cost,” says Lettuce Grow founder and CEO Jacob Pechenik. As people spend more time at home, the pandemic has accelerated the grow-your-own movement. Lettuce Grow notes that sales of their…

Astroll through a liquor store reveals that tequila has been playing a hot hand. Many purists gravitate toward unaged, blanco tequila, its peppery, herbaceous flavors emblematic of the drink’s essential ingredient: agave. At the other extreme are tequilas that bear the designations of añejo (old) or extra añejo: Their extended cask maturation placed Mexico’s popular spirit on solid footing alongside aged spirits like whisky and brandy. But often overlooked in the overall tequila boom is a commendable niche that offers a tasty south-of-the-border experience at good value: Reposado, meaning “rested,” is the middle child of tequila. The legal description dictates two months to a year in wooden cask. In a way it’s like VSOP brandy—not as raw as a VS, but not as nuanced as an XO. It has considerable…

The fascinating thing about California’s Rhône-style reds is the impressive number of grapes winemakers can use to make them. In France’s Rhône Valley, from which these wines take their inspiration, there are dozens of approved varieties, from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre to more obscure grapes such as Carignan, Cinsault, Counoise, Picpoul Noir and Muscardin. Golden State winemakers generally focus on Syrah, followed by Grenache, often in blends that include multiple grapes. “Syrah is a fun variety. I really enjoy making it.”—Elias Fernandez, Shafer Vineyards These wines have gained a passionate following in California over the past decade, among wine lovers as well as winemakers. “Syrah is a fun variety,” says Shafer winemaker Elias Fernandez. “I really enjoy making it.” The good news for those looking to explore these flavorful wines…

ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends 92 Altocedro Malbec La Consulta Gran Reserve 2018 $55 Lusciously spiced and open-textured, with a burnished mix of cherry tart, red cherry and plum flavors that are filled with creamy richness. Finishes plush, with accents of hot stone. Drink now through 2024. 800 cases made, 310 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Kaiken Malbec Mendoza Mai 2017 $80 Big, rich and filled with well-structured dark cherry, plum and blackberry flavors that are backed by firm acidity and ripe tannins. The juicy finish is filled with concentrated Asian spice flavors and dark chocolate notes. Drink now through 2025. 1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—K.M. 90 Finca Decero Malbec Agrelo Remolinos Vineyard 2018 $22 Offers dark cherry and plum flavors that are fleshy and filled with tannic power. Minerally midpalate, with…

Doggone Right The other day a colleague called me and said that Wine Spectator has “gone to the dogs.” I naturally responded by telling her, “go soak your head, that’ll never happen.” And hung up. Well the very next day I received my “Dogs of California Wine Country” issue of Wine Spectator (cover, March 31) and doggone it if she wasn’t right. I’ve always enjoyed Wine Spectator and this will probably become my all-time favorite issue. As I see it, you have two important things that need to be at the top of your to-do list. First is to give an M. Shanken Award of Excellence to the individual(s) responsible for this outstanding idea. The second is to contact someone at Merriam-Webster and have that definition rewritten. As for me,…

Can you trademark terroir? In the case of Napa’s most famous vineyard, a federal court has ruled yes. U.S. District Judge Yvonne Gonzalez Rogers has ruled in favor of Constellation Brands in a suit filed by Jeremy Nickel, owner of The Vineyard House, dismissing his claim that he is entitled to use the To Kalon Vineyard name on his wines based on the location of his Oakville, Calif., winery and vineyards. Following a virtual trial, Gonzalez Rogers issued a ruling Jan. 26 that Nickel did not paint a clear picture of whether his land was once used by Hamilton Walker Crabb for grapegrowing and was considered part of the original To Kalon Vineyard. She found that evidence was weak that Nickel’s land, once called “the Baldridge Property,” had been planted…

Within the Austin, Texas, flagship Whole Foods Market is a cheese counter to rival some of the best anywhere, offering cut-to-order service and up to 1,600 selections. Smaller Whole Foods stores carry as many as 400. Other top-tier grocers have followed suit. But it wasn’t always this way. “People forget what the artisan cheese world was like in 2000,” says Mike Koch of Maryland’s Firefly Farms. “The idea that Whole Foods could buy independently from local producers like us was revolutionary.” Much of the credit for this should go to Cathy Strange, who was working at Wellspring Grocery in her hometown of Chapel Hill, N. C., when it was acquired by Whole Foods in 1992. Strange went along for the ride, as the company grew from 11 stores to more…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 97 SAXUM James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2018 $98 CALIFORNIA A dynamic wine, with a deep structure that unfurls on the palate, offering rich and expressive black cherry and blueberry flavors that draw in accents of crushed stone, garrigue and fruitcake spices. Grenache blend. COLLECTIBLE 97 PIERRE GELIN Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2018 $412 FRANCE Dark and mysterious, with black cherry and black currant flavors backed by a frame of dense, dusty tannins, showing a juiciness and energy that carries this to the lingering conclusion. SMART BUY 92 TAYLOR FLADGATE Late Bottled Port 2015 $25 PORTUGAL This is on point now, with mulled plum, blackberry and black currant fruit flavors forming the core, while bittersweet cocoa, roasted apple wood and briar patch notes underscore the finish.…

On Melo’s team, the star is unquestionably Burgundy. He loves studying the complexity of wines like DRC, Leroy and Dujac. The point guard, Napa Cabernet was Melo’s first deep dive into wine, and he is still a fan today of wines like Realm Cellars and Dominus. Melo says white wine was his gateway to the wine world and he still enjoys it. He loves how clearly Riesling reflects its terroir. Melo transitioned from Napa to Bordeaux after tasting Chateau Petrus. Today he enjoys Mouton-Rothschild, Margaux and Pontet-Canet. Pinotage is not just delicious; Melo says it reminds him of South Africa’s apartheid past and the importance of fighting for social change.…

Avión Reposado, 80 proof, $40 Introduced as a story arc on HBO’s Entourage, Avion is a Highland reposado with rich body, vanilla, dough and pear. Casamigos Reposado, 80 proof, $54 Founded by actor George Clooney and his partners. The pinas are roasted in brick ovens and the tequila is aged 7 months. Flavors of caramel, vanilla and spice are buttery smooth. Cazadores Reposado, 80 proof, $29 Rested in new American oak, this Highland reposado is a nice step into aged tequila styles. Agave meets pears, caramel and cinnamon. Cincoro Reposado, 80 proof, $80 Basketball legend Michael Jordan partnered in this brand. Cincoro matures for 8 to 10 months to achieve creme brulee flavor, spice and cocoa. Clase Azul Reposado, 80 proof, $80 With 11 months of age, this lands with…

2 ounces reposado tequila½ ounce lime juicePinch of saltGrapefruit sodaGrapefruit slice for garnish Put tequila, lime juice and salt in a highball glass full of ice. Fill with grapefruit soda. Stir lightly. Add garnish. IVY’S TIPS: Going off book, she suggests replacing grapefruit soda with the similarly tart blood orange soda from San Pellegrino for its rich flavor and vibrant color.…

CALIFORNIA Grenache & Blends 97 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2018 $98 See Highly Recommended, page 93. 95 Alban Pandora Seymour’s Vineyard Edna Valley 2016 $160 This is rich and supple up front and then layers in the mineral-tinged structure. Bold, this red offers expressive black raspberry, fresh violets and fruitcake spices that fan out toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 180 cases made.—T.F. 94 Saxum Rocket Block James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2017 $148A wine with power and polish, this well-structured red is rich and ripe. Notes of huckleberry pie, smoky herbs and orange zest build tension toward a slow build of bigshouldered tannins on the finish. Grenache, Mataro and Syrah. Drink now through 2030. 253 cases made.—T.F. 94 Saxum G2…