Indholdsfortegnelse for September 30, 2021 i Wine Spectator

On a warm Saturday evening in June, OperaWine gathered 186 top Italian wine producers for a gala tasting in Verona. It was the 10th edition of the event, created by Wine Spectator in partnership with Vinitaly, the national trade fair. Normally, OperaWine kicks off Vinitaly, that nation’s most important wine trade fair. But in 2020 the event was canceled, and while Vinitaly returns in 2021 it’s not until fall; organizers have scheduled the “VinItaly Special Edition” for Oct. 17–19. So the OperaWine tasting served as an important marker that life, and business, will move forward with enthusiasm and hope. “We needed this event,” said Lamberto Frescobaldi of Marchesi Frescobaldi. “We producers haven’t been able to see each other for more than a year. It’s great to be back together.” Wine…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 BODEGAS Y VINEDOS VALDERIZ Ribera del Duero 2018 $40 SPAIN This velvety red has generous layers of cherry reduction, espresso, clove and loamy earth notes flanked by licorice, graphite and floral hints. Shows freshness and concentration. COLLECTIBLE 96 DIAMOND CREEK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Three Vineyard Blend 2013 $350 CALIFORNIA Distinctive, with a breezy floral and herbaceous side, melding with a denser, grippier element and a racy core of gently mulled red currant and black cherry fruit. SMART BUY 91 FAMILLE PERRIN Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2018 $20 FRANCE Ripe and expressive, with a lovely beam of plum puree and violet racing through, laced with subtle mineral and anise hints along the way. Ends with a late whiff of dried garrigue on the finish. BEST VALUE 88 ANTINORI…

95 pts. William Larue Weller Kentucky Straight (Buffalo Trace Antique Collection 2020) (67.25%, $99) A very limited and highly coveted annual release, this Bourbon is dense with flavors of leather, cherry and licorice, with a long finish of dark chocolate. 94 pts. Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight (Batch A121) (61.8%, $60) A previous batch of this Bourbon was Whisky Advocate’s Whisky of the Year. While each batch varies, the generous flavors, heaps of spice, and nicely polished oak are consistent hallmarks. 94 pts. Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch (2020 Release) (55.7%, $150) A highly regarded annual release, this is soft, sweet and approachable barrel strength, with refined flavors of vanilla confections, leather and spices that suggest cola. 94 pts. Old Ezra 7 year old Barrel Strength (58.5%, $60) Ezra Brooks’ first effort…

Darling Cellars is less than 10 miles from the Atlantic Ocean on South Africa’s Western Cape. But it was wine, not water, that flooded the winery May 4 when a 50,000-liter wine tank collapsed, unleashing a frothing stream of red wine and initiating a calamitous domino effect that ended in the loss of 250,000 liters of wine and substantial structural damage. The chain reaction likely started when the stand supporting one of the 50,000-liter steel tanks collapsed, causing the first tank to knock over an adjacent tank, which knocked over another adjacent tank, which … well, you get the picture. Some of the tanks also smashed through the winery’s concrete walls and damaged pipes. No humans were injured, but a whole lot of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cinsault went to…

Not a week goes by that I don’t enjoy a Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. I find that these delicious reds go with pretty much every meal on my table. I realize that that may break some rules of tradi-tional wine matching, but it’s how I feel. For our cover story this issue, Kim Marcus, our lead taster on California Pinot Noir, ventured off the beaten path, traversing seemingly endless miles of gravel roads and steep slopes into the rugged terrain of the northwest Sonoma Coast. Many of the earliest-planted vineyards here date only to the 1980s. There is little in the way of tasting rooms, restaurants or accommoda-tions, but the terroir is proving ideal for Pinot Noir—especially the remote appellation called Fort Ross–Seaview. It’s the source of standout wines from…

There’s a lot to discover about the Sonoma Coast and its great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, so in May I set out on my first big exploration of a California vineyard region post COVID-19 vaccine. In four separate trips from my base in Napa Valley, I clocked more than 1,000 miles on the road to eventually focus on one small sliver: the amazing Pinot Noirs of the Fort Ross–Seaview appellation, as detailed in this issue’s cover story, beginning on page 60. For a time, I had grander visions to delve into the intricacies of what can be considered the true coast, which basically stretches from the border of Mendocino County in the north to the headlands of Bodega Bay in the south and about 5 to 10 miles inland. But…

Browsing the growing selection of Bourbon labels on liquor store shelves, there’s no shortage of clever descriptors—small batch, reserve, craft, limited-edition—all words that are open to interpretation. But there is one designation worthy of your attention: barrel strength. Also referred to as “cask strength” and “barrel proof ” this phrase is restricted to whiskeys that have been bottled straight from the barrel, without the addition of water after aging. What this means for the drinker is full throttle, undiluted flavor. Bourbon doesn’t happen to emerge from the barrel with a whole number proof like 92, the equivalent of 46% alcohol by volume (ABV). To achieve these standardized proofs, the Bourbon is adjusted with water. Because barrel strength Bourbons don’t have any water added at the time of bottling, their proof…

It was hours past the scheduled delivery time and Jim Lancaster’s shipping container was missing. In it, spread across nine pallets, was the wine collection he had spent years assembling while living in the Netherlands, where he and his family had moved in 2012. Lancaster returned to America in 2016, but his wines stayed behind while he built a new cellar for them stateside. Now, the space in his Indiana home was finally ready for them—but standing by his storage facility on a May morning, worry and uncertainty reigned. “We thought it was going to show up at 9 o’clock, coming out of Chicago,” Lancaster recalls. “We’re out there waiting, waiting. Nothing happens. We see a container go by, think it’s ours, but it’s going the wrong direction.” Moving a…

Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution. 89 Cune Rioja Crianza 2018 $15 SPAIN Crisp acidy defines the cherry, currant and orange peel flavors in this inviting, medium-bodied red, with wild herb, spice and tea details combining on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 375,000 cases made, 15,000 cases imported.—G.S. 88 Antinori Toscana White Villa Antinori 2020 $14 ITALY Made in a crisp, fruity style, with a touch of carbonic gas adding lift, this fresh white boasts apple, peach and citrus notes. Trebbiano, Malvasia, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Riesling. Drink now. 8,800 cases imported.—B.S. 88 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills 2017 $15 WASHINGTON Snappy and fruitforward, with blackberry and spicy mocha flavors. Drink now through 2025. 500,000 cases made.—T.F. 85 Castle Rock Pinot Noir California Cuvee…

Burgundy / Chablis 94 Christian Moreau Pere & Fils Chablis Les Clos 2018 $132 Not showy in any way, this white is harmonious and graceful, yet with an underlying intensity that keeps building on the palate to a long conclusion. Peach, melon, lemon and baking spices are punctuated by a stony, minerally saline element that caps the lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 2,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Christian Moreau Pere & Fils Chablis Valmur 2018 $124 Opulent and creamy, this white features flavors of peach, honey, apple pie and lemon that are backed by lively acidity, unfolding to the lingering, spicy finish. Drink now through 2025. 830 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. 92 Albert Bichot Chablis Les Clos Domaine Long-Depaquit 2019 $134 Round and intense, this evokes…

Tuscany / Toscana 97 Castello dei Rampolla Toscana d’Alceo 2016 $180 See Collectibles, page 109. 95 Bindi Sergardi Toscana Mocenni 91 2016 $75 This red is intense, offering black cherry, blackberry, rosemary, menthol and iron aromas and flavors that permeate the supple texture. Vibrant and mouthwatering, ending in a fresh, savory aftertaste of olive, wild herbs and tobacco. Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2032. 300 cases made, 120 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Luce della Vite Toscana Luce 2018 $135 Well-marked by toasty, spicy new oak, this dense, dark red is saturated with black cherry, plum and iron flavors. Firm yet refined tannins lend support, as does bright acidity, with fine length. Sangiovese and Merlot. Drink now through 2032. 750 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Ornellaia Toscana White 2018 $260 Rich and almost viscous…

Pot Perspectives When I received my copy of the June 15 & 30 issue, promising a report on “Cannabis in Wine Country,” I rolled my eyes. Was this to be an essay of where to buy buds or advice on marijuana/wine pairings, or perhaps the launching of Dope Spectator? I have no doubt that some readers would have been pleased had this been the case. However, Aaron Romano’s section was really fascinating, raising very important political, economic, and social issues that affect the competition between these two agricultural powerhouses and the way that different locales handled this “invader.” I was captured by his profound and balanced reportage, as well as the bravery of the editors to assign the project. Of all of the articles that I have read in the…

Of Italy’s iconic pasta dishes, perhaps the most universally admired, foolproof and delicious—not to mention, quite literally, the bacon-and-eggs of the bunch—is carbonara. Like its cousins all’Amatriciana, cacio e pepe and alla gricia, it originated in working-class Roman kitchens but has been embraced and celebrated worldwide for nearly a century. To concoct an authentic, traditional version of this classic, we turned to Fabio Trabocchi, one of America’s most distinguished Italian chefs, whose flagship restaurant Fiola in Washington, D.C., is a Grand Award winner since 2019. Trabocchi, 47, grew up in Osimo, a hilltown in Le Marche about three hours north of Rome by car. Of carbonara, he says, “Yes, it’s a Roman dish, but everybody claims to have invented it. There’s a pasta with a pure pork ingredient in every…

El Tesoro Perhaps the biggest treasure of Spain’s vineyards is the vast array of grapes they grow—from north to south, west to east—yielding a range of wine styles. This group is merely a glimpse into that diversity, spreading across the country’s northern regions from Rías Baixas to Rioja. The Lagar de Fornelos is a blend of traditional grapes Albariño, Caiño, Loureiro and Treixadura. BODEGAS TRUS Ribera del Duero Crianza 2018 (93, $25) Concentrated, graceful; blackberry, currant, anise, graphite, loam, espresso, spice BODEGAS EMILIO MORO Godello Bierzo El Zarzal 2018 (92, $28) Lychee, orange blossom, papaya, honey, mineral, herb, vanilla; focused BODEGA BURDIGALA Rueda Campo Eliseo 2019 (91, $22) Creamy, enticing; mango, papaya, honeysuckle, coconut, blanched almond LAGAR DE FORNELOS Rias Baixas Pazo de Seoane Rosal 2020 (90, $21) Pineapple, apricot,…

In June, I took my first European trip in 16 months, traveling to Verona, Italy, for Opera Wine, a tasting of Italy’s finest wines chosen by Wine Spectator in conjunction with Vinitaly and Veronafiere. It was the 10th anniversary of the event, first staged in 2012. The 2020 edition was canceled, along with Vin italy, in April of that year; northern Italy was particularly hard hit with COVID-19 in the early months of the spread of the virus. To celebrate the 10th edition, we invited the complete list of 2020 producers and added all the wineries that participated in past events: 186 in all. As vaccinations proceeded rapidly in the United States, Covid cases began to decrease. Europe was slower to get shots in the arms of its inhabitants, however…

Pinot Noir has hit a new pinnacle in California, powered by the high quality of the 2018 and 2019 vintages, both of which feature impressive single-vineyard bottlings from multiple regions. The best wines offer the vivid structures and concentrated flavors that have made Pinot Noir the most versatile red wine from the Golden State. Even higher rungs of quality are potentially in the offing as vintners pursue ever more selective bottlings from their prime vineyards. On the northern Sonoma Coast, both Marcassin and Flowers are preparing to release new single-bloc bottlings this fall that are poised to elevate Pinot Noir to the next level. There are hundreds of outstanding wines to go around from 2018 and 2019, which dominate the nearly 650 new releases I have blind-tasted since my previous…

Raw Ingredients Bourbon is fermented from a minimum of 51% corn, with other grains. It can be produced anywhere in the U.S. About 95% comes from Kentucky, according to the Kentucky Distillers’ Assoc. Distillation After fermentation the liquid is passed through a still to concentrate the alcohol. Bourbon cannot be distilled above 160 proof. Barrel Entry Before being placed in new, charred oak barrels Bourbon must be diluted to no more than 125 proof. Some producers dilute it more, which is costly because it requires more barrels and warehouse space. Maturation As Bourbon barrels rest, they lose liquid, often refered to as the angels’ share. In warmer climates like Kentucky’s, water is lost at a faster rate than alcohol, causing proof to increase. Barrels in the hottest part of the…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South…

92 Vina Cobos Malbec Uco Valley Bramare 2018 $42 Big and rich, with concentrated blackberry, dark cherry and plum pastry flavors that are loaded with intense slate and pepper accents. The creamy finish shows plenty of chocolate mousse notes. Drink now through 2024. 9,900 cases made.—K.M. 91 Bodegas Escorihuela Gascon Malbec Mendoza Escorohuela 1884 Limted Production 2018 $26 A pure, vibrant style, with fine-grained flavors of cherry tart and dried berry that are fresh and well-spiced. White pepper notes midpalate lead to a finish that lingers with hints of dried sage. Drink now through 2024. 5,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—K.M. 91 Bodega Septima Gran Reserva Mendoza 2017 $35 Lithe and juicy, with creamy richness to the blackberry, cherry and dark plum flavors that are filled with chocolate and Asian…

93 Kunstler Riesling Trocken Rheingau Hochheimer Domdechaney 2019 $51 A tad richer than its peers, this features peach and apple fruit augmented by floral and savory spice notes. Expressive and balanced, with a lingering finish that offers vivid acidity and spice elements. Drink now through 2032. 300 cases made, 50 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Schloss Lieser Riesling Mosel Niederberg Helden GG 2019 $65 Aromas and flavors of peach, floral, slate and brown spices are matched to a supple texture and juicy acidity. These components make for an expressive, harmonious white, with terrific balance and length. Drink now through 2033. 600 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Robert Weil Riesling Trocken Rheingau Kiedrich Turmberg 2019 $55 This focused white is packed with peach, apricot, floral and mineral flavors shaped by the bracing…

Ribera del Duero 95 Bodegas y Vinedos Valderiz Ribera del Duero 2018 $40 See Highly Recommended, page 109. 93 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Maximo 2016 $115 This generous red is broad and dense, with berry compote, steeped cherry, espresso and loamy earth notes supported by suave tannins. Rich elements of mocha and licorice echo on the creamy finish. Drink now through 2033. 150 cases made, 30 cases imported.—G.S. 93 Bodegas Trus Ribera del Duero Crianza 2018 $25 This concentrated, graceful red offers a thread of graphite and loamy earth that weaves through the blackberry, currant and anise notes, with details of espresso and spice carrying through the velvety finish. Drink now through 2036. 6,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—G.S. 92 Bodegas Arrocal Ribera del Duero Angel 2016 $55 Black…

Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Three Vineyard Blend 2013 $350 See Collectibles, page 109. 94 B Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Ehrlich Vineyard 2018 $130 This is loaded with steeped black currant, fig and blackberry fruit flavors that are liberally laced with roasted cedar and alder notes. The grippy, tar-fueled finish might be slightly rugged for some, but this has fruit to burn. Best from 2023 through 2036. 500 cases made.—J.M. 94 B Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2018 $125 Lightly steeped red and black currant form the core, while singed apple wood, savory and dried anise notes skitter throughout. There’s a fine-grained feel through the finish, with a late iron twinge. Drink now through 2035. 430 cases made.—J.M. 94 Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Napa…

94 Evening Land Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills Summum Seven Springs Estate 2018 $100 Sleek and impeccably structured, with vibrant apple, lemon verbena and fresh saline accents that build richness on the compelling finish. Drink now through 2024. 151 cases made.—T.F. 93 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Adriane 2018 $55 This unfolds slowly, with expressive raspberry and pomegranate flavors that draw in accents of crushed stone and savory bay leaf, building toward broad-shouldered but refined tannins. Drink now through 2030. 780 cases made.—T.F. 93 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Victoria 2018 $70 Deep and densely structured, but the intensity of the cherry and pomegranate flavors suggests a bright future, with accents of crushed stone and rose petal that build toward broad-shouldered tannins. Hands off for now. Best from 2022 through…

92 Gorman The Devil You Know Columbia Valley 2018 $30 Combines finesse with a gutsy structure, offering deep flavors of black raspberry that show black tea and orange zest accents. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. From Washington. Drink now through 2030. 1,000 cases made.—T.F. 92 Keuka Lake Vineyards Riesling Finger Lakes Dry 20 Rows Vineyard 2019 $35 Bracing in feel, with a mix of fennel, green apple, slate and yellow plum notes working nicely together, while racy acidity is inlaid deeply through the mouthwatering finish. Should lose a little of that tangy edge with cellaring, as this has the stuffing to wait a bit. From New York. Drink now through 2025. 85 cases made.—J.M. 91 Bookwalter Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Readers 2018 $28 A gutsy Cabernet, with lively blackberry,…