Indholdsfortegnelse for November 30, 2021 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/113021 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS TOP 100 COUNTDOWN On Nov. 8, we begin unveiling the Top 10 Wines of 2021—complete with videos, tasting notes and more—culminating with the Wine of the Year on Nov. 12 and the complete Top 100 list on Nov. 15. Don’t miss the year’s most exciting wines! STRAIGHT TALK WITH WINE SPECTATOR is an Instagram Live series featuring conversations with wine-and-food newsmakers such as winemakers Andy Erickson and Thomas Rivers Brown, chefs Eric Ripert and José Andrés, and wine industry leaders Barbara Banke and Rob McMillan. Tune in to Straight Talk on Wine Spectator’s Instagram page and check out the chat schedule at WineSpectator.com/LiveChatCalendar. WINE SPECTATOR IS NOW ON YOUTUBE Watch all our great wine and recipe…

Now In Our IGTV Archives SEPT. 22 Alberto Antonini, consulting enologist and producer SEPT. 15 Valentina Abbona, owner and marketing manager, Marchesi di Barolo SEPT. 8 Tiquette Bramlett, president, Vidon Vineyard SEPT. 1 Barbara Banke, chairman and proprietor, Jackson Family Wines AUG. 25 DLynn Proctor, sommelier and director of Fantesca Estate & Winery AUG. 18 Chris Kajani, winemaker, Bouchaine Vineyards AUG. 11 Christian Moreau, founder, Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils AUG. 4 Braithe Tidwell, wine director, Brennan’s Restaurant JULY 28 Rob McMillan, founder, Silicon Valley Bank wine group JULY 21 Michael Browne, co-founder, Kosta Browne Winery WATCH ON INSTAGRAM Scan the QR code to start watching on our IGTV channel, or visit instagram.com/wine_spectator/channel…

Americans often scratch their heads over the Iberian reverence for canned seafood. Isn’t great food supposed to be fresh and local and in peak season? Well, think of bacon, which is preserved in salt and often smoked. For that matter, think of wine, in which alcohol preserves the fermented grape juice. Canning simply extends the shelf life. Portugal has been renowned for the quality and abundance of its sardines since at least the time of the Roman Empire, and preservation by canning began in the 19th century. Today, this mineral- and vitamin-rich fish is as much a national icon as bacalhau (salt cod). Both are central to the culture, and entire bars brim with a great variety of the cans for predinner snacking. George Mendes, chef at Veranda in New…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 96 AZELIA Barolo Cerretta 2017 $149 ITALY Decadent aromas of cherry and currant signal this complex and vibrant red, whose core of ripe fruit defines the palate, supported by notes of eucalyptus, leather, licorice, tar and mineral. COLLECTIBLE 96 LOUIS ROEDERER Brut Champagne Cristal 2013 $279 FRANCE Exotic hints of tangerine and candied ginger accent a finely meshed range of ripe green apple and cassis fruit in this vivid Champagne, which is sleek and graceful. SMART BUY 91 CHEHALEM Chardonnay Willamette Valley Inox Unoaked 2020 $20 OREGON This white bursts with aromas of peach blossom and lemon zest, taking on a lush, succulent texture toward the crisp finish. BEST VALUE 88 VIÑA MONTES Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Classic Series 2019 $12 CHILE Moderately rich and ripe, with concentrated…

The prince knows the value of a good story. If in a screenwriter’s terms, Quintus is an original screenplay and Le Clarence a sequel, then Château Haut-Brion is an epic, a mix of history and myth. Robert is now embedding Haut-Brion’s story in the larger narrative he is creating for Domaine Clarence Dillon. He is touching almost everything. He has rebuilt wineries, redecorated châteaus, redesigned wine labels, written the annual holiday cards. He is extending the tale both deeper into the past and more dynamically into the future. He hired a resident historian, Alain Puginier, and went looking for documented references to the wine of Haut-Brion. He wanted to know whether mentions went further back than the 1660–1661 cellar book of King Charles II, which inventories 169 bottles of “vino…

This puree takes a bit of time but can be made a day in advance. It evokes the “very holiday-esque” experience of sipping warm soup by the fireplace and highlights one of Michael’s favorite vegetables. As with the other recipes, not much can go wrong here. “It’s really just slowly caramelizing sunchokes so they get this richness and nuttiness, a little touch of the Madeira, then adding some cream and some stock and blending it,” he says. Sun-chokes should be available in most parts of the United States, but they can also be swapped out for celeriac or potatoes. 1 stick unsalted organic butter½ of 1 lemon, seededSalt to taste¾ pound of skin-on sunchokes, thoroughly washed, patted dry and sliced ⅛-inch thick (also slice any protruding nubs to ensure even…

The holidays are for relaxing and enjoying, so don’t spend time overthinking the wine pairings. Rather than matching bottles to specific dishes, put your guests (and yourself) at ease by setting out a selection of wines and letting everyone pour what they like. People tend to gravitate toward certain styles of wine, so we’ve picked four of the most popular—bubblies, bright whites, chillable reds and richer reds—to please any crowd. Festive Bubbly Olivier Horiot Sève Rosé de Saignée Champagne NV “One of our favorite discoveries in Champagne over the past few years. Olivier and Marie Horiot craft wonderfully idiosyncratic wines, and they specialize in producing saignée rosé. Saignée, meaning ‘bleed,’ are Champagnes produced by lightly macerating red grapes before bleeding the juice from the skins, as opposed to the more…

RON ABUELO XII TWO OAKS (Panama, 40% ABV, $60) Ron Abuelo’s portfolio showcases special finishes. This 12-year-old starts in former Bourbon barrels, then goes to new, deep-charred American oak casks. It boasts maple, caramel, coffee and nut notes with a spicy component of ginger and cloves smoothed by the virgin oak. APPLETON ESTATE BLACK RIVER CASKS (Jamaica, 43% ABV, $65) Appleton’s thousand-acre estate supplies 10 types of sugar cane. This newly released 15-year-old takes its name from the water of the limes-tone-filtered Black River. Melding pot- and column-stilled spirit, it is a mix of orange and banana notes, plus pineapple, ginger, bread dough and a subtle nuttiness and pimento. BACARDI RESERVA OCHO SHERRY CASK (Puerto Rico, 40% ABV, $33) The 159-year-old Bacardi now targets the ultrapremium market with its long-aged…

This issue’s cover personality, Prince Robert de Luxembourg, may not be a familiar name to every wine lover, but his flagship estate certainly is: Château Haut-Brion is one of the five elite first-growths of Bordeaux. Robert joined the company in the 1990s and is now firmly in charge of a growing enterprise. He continues a long family tradition. The Dillon family has been faithful stewards of Haut-Brion since banker and financier Clarence Dillon bought the Bordeaux estate in 1935. The family has also long been part of Wine Spectator’s community. In 1995, a vertical tasting of Haut-Brion was a highlight of the Wine Experience. Douglas Dillon, Clarence’s son and a former U.S. ambassador to France, with longtime winemaker Jean-Bernard Delmas, presented eight vintages back to the legendary 1961. Joan, Douglas’…

Harvesting grapes often starts before the sun rises, as workers cut bunches by hand and load hoppers, working quickly to bring in the fruit in as fresh a condition as possible. Skilled seasonal workers toil long hours. Photographer Leigh-Ann Beverly captured this image at a Ridge vineyard in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma. She was Wine Spectator’s featured photographer on our Instagram account for the month of August. Check out more harvest pictures @wine_spectator.…

For casual snacking, you want to match to the time of day and your mood, rather than strictly to the food. The sun is dropping in the sky but dinner is a ways off, so maybe you open a frosty beer as Mendes recommends. It’s refreshing and light: a good sundowner. A crisp, minerally white wine makes a by-the-book match and together with the fish stirs the appetite. Try an Alvarinho from Portugal’s Minho region. A fruity Malbec on the cold side of cellar temperature works well too, but as a counterpoint. The fish is strong and the wine stands up to it.…

Recent vintages in Germany point to the profound impact of climate change on the country’s wines. The past three harvests—2018, 2019 and 2020—have all been hot, albeit with varying levels of rainfall and botrytis as well as varying yields. Naturally, the style of the wines has changed too, due to higher sugar levels. This means that kabinette are often declassified spätlesen, spätlesen declassified auslesen and so on. There is also greater uncertainty as to whether a vintage will have the optimal conditions for the development of botrytis, a mold that shrivels and concentrates grape components, creating the exquisite dessert wines Germany is renowned for. Botrytis thrives in cool, wet, humid weather, so the country’s changing environment indicates a shift in the emergence of this “noble rot.” Yet far from showing…

The first time I drove into Willamette Valley, on Highway 99W, it seemed like home. That was years ago, but it still feels that way. I grew up in the rural Midwest and there’s something about farm country that translates from place to place. I returned to the valley in August, after a two-year absence—it was good to be back. I tasted with veterans such as Ken Wright and Lynn Penner-Ash, but I focused on winemakers and growers I’d never met and wineries I’d never visited. While I’m plotting the stories I’ll write in the coming months, here are some preliminary observations. The 2019 Pinot Noirs are a return to form, more old-school Oregon than recent vintages. They’re generally lighter-bodied, less showy and lower in alcohol than the 2018s, with…

Origins The story of Haut-Brion begins like all the best wine stories do: with a sense of place, the intertwining of geography, climate and history—in a word, terroir. The place that came to be known as Haut-Brion emerged after the intense glaciation that began a million years ago had shaped the land that would become Bordeaux. The Garonne river carved the landscape, leaving behind clay, sand, limestone, shell marl and, most importantly for our story, river stones and pebbles, laying the groundwork for vines to flourish. If the ancient peoples who subsequently inhabited the region noticed something remarkable in the gravel soil, they left no sign. But the arrival of the Romans changed everything. It helped that the gravel terrace was located between the Serpent and Peugue rivers, which opened…

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan 2018 98 / $612 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan White 2018 98 / $857 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan 2018 96 / $359 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan White 2018 97 / $720 CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2018 94 / $159 Pessac-Léognan White La Clarté de Haut-Brion 2018 92 / $90 CHÂTEAU LA MISSION HAUT-BRION Pessac-Léognan La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion 2018 93 / $87 CHÂTEAU QUINTUS St.-Emilion 2018 92 / $135 St.-Emilion Le Dragon 2018 89 / $45 CLARENDELLE Pessac-Léognan 2016 89 / $20 Monbazillac 2015 88 / $NA/500ml Bordeaux Rosé 2020 87 / $15 Bordeaux White 2020 87 / $17 Bordeaux 2017 86 / $19…

In a twist on a bite that’s been offered in some variation at Quince for the past three years, brioche is toasted in butter for richness, then topped with whipped crème fraîche and caviar. If they’re available, edible flower petals beautify this extremely easy appetizer. (And since brioche has a high butter content, you could even skip the stovetop step and simply brown the bread in a toaster or oven.) These can be prepared in advance, but Michael says they’re better à la minute: Set out all the toppings as you’re toasting the brioche and let everyone partake in the fun of building their own: “Your guests will want to make them themselves after trying the first bite.” 6 slices brioche, ¼-inch thick, with crust removed (can save for stuffing…

Arancini are an ultimate crowd-pleaser. Pumpkin, mushrooms and saffron create “a little taste of fall” in a risotto that’s then formed into bite-sized balls and fried. The Tusks forage for various wild mushrooms, but virtually any kind or combination will work, including cremini, porcini or black trumpets—you can even throw in some rehydrated dried varieties. Make the rice mixture and let it cool in the fridge the day before, so all that’s left to do day of is form, bread and fry. 20 strands or small pinch of saffron5 cups vegetable or turkey stock4 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced and kept refrigerated (divided)1 cup diced pumpkin, grated on large holes then minced until about the size of rice grainsSalt to taste1 cup chanterelle or button mushrooms, chopped roughly into ½-inch pieces1…

Many Americans got their introduction to rum in some setting less than conducive to thoughtful appreciation of a classic spirit that’s been part of New World culture for four centuries. They sipped it beachside in fruit cocktails. They tippled multilayered Tiki drinks in faux Polynesian bars. Or worst, they disguised the alcohol by drowning it in cola. And that’s a shame. But it can be remedied. A wealth of rums that are worthy of sipping neat or on the rocks are now being made all over the world. Throughout the Caribbean, Central and South America, even the United States and some distant places on the other side of the globe, rums are emerging that are accessible to drinkers of wine, whiskey and brandy. New entries and better access to venerable,…

The epicenter of Portugal’s wine industry, the Douro Valley, has long been known as the home of Port. Yet these days, the region is increasingly recognized for its table wines, including powerful reds and distinctive whites. The energy driving this transformation is now permeating Portugal’s lesser-known regions, which are garnering acclaim in their own right. Having blazed a path for Portuguese table wines on the world stage, the Douro is inspiring these other areas to showcase their unique terroirs by marrying traditional winemaking practices with modern techniques. Since my previous report on the table wines of Portugal (“Age of Discovery,” Nov. 30, 2020), I have reviewed nearly 225 wines from across many of the country’s regions. With a median score of 89 points on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale and a…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South…

ARGENTINA 93 Luca Malbec Uco Valley Old Vine 2019 $35 See Smart Buys, page 92. 92 Domaine Bousquet Malbec Gualtallary Ameri 2019 $36 There’s lots of spicy richness to the concentrated dark plum and blackberry flavors that feature medium-grained tannins. Open-textured midpalate, with a plush-tasting finish that shows cocoa powder accents. Drink now through 2025. 200 cases made, 100 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Luca Malbec Uco Valley Historia de Familia 2019 $75/1.5L Big, rich and zesty, this red is filled with brambly red fruit and spice flavors that are well-knit. Juicy midpalate, with good lift on the focused finish that shows plenty of lithe minerality. Drink now through 2025. 200 cases made, 100 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Bodega Noemía de Patagonia Malbec Patagonia 2017 $120 Svelte and well-structured, with lively acidity backing the dried…

Name That Bottle I have been a subscriber for years, and I know nothing about basketball, but I have to say that your profile of Carmelo Anthony (cover, May 31) was one of my favorite articles I’ve ever read. His curiosity, humility and thoughtfulness regarding his journeys through both sports and wine were refreshing and compelling. His mentorship of fellow players and his “What’s in Your Glass?” platform are prime examples of how wine can spark conversations and connections, becoming so much more than a beverage. The photo on page 43, of Anthony, Dwyane Wade and Jimmy Butler with an impressive array of wines, was so inspiring that I shared it with my husband and two friends (wine buffs all), and we challenged ourselves to identify each of the bottles.…

Lynda and Stewart Resnick have built an $8 billion fortune through shrewd investments and marketing. In 1978, Stewart bought farmland in the Central Valley. Lynda marketed the crops with companies such as Halo mandarin oranges, Wonderful pistachios and POM Wonderful pomegranate juice. In 2010, they entered wine, buying Justin. A year later, they acquired Landmark Vineyards in Sonoma. They’ve also harvested controversy, particularly by buying up water rights in the Central Valley that have now proved precious after years of drought. And in 2016, workers at Justin cut down an estimated 100 acres of oaks. The Resnicks issued an apology, calling it “a lapse in judgement” and began planting 5,000 oak trees on their Paso lands.…

This is a great time for fine American bean-to-bar chocolate. Early artisan producers, mostly based in cities, tended to hew to the European model of fine, high cacao percentage chocolate. Today’s artisans are forging their path in new locations and with a broader taste spectrum, having relaxed, and maybe refined, their own tastes as well as those of consumers. Fruition Chocolate Works in rural Shokan, N.Y., is a leading example of the next wave of American chocolate. “When we started, the trend was strictly two ingredients, single origin, no vanilla, no milk chocolate, definitely no white chocolate,” says Bryan Graham, co-founder with his wife, Dahlia. “I found that to be extremely limiting. We wanted to make all our own chocolate, but not just high-percentage darks, which was really common. Out…

California Dreamin’ This group from the Golden State includes a range of whites and reds. The whites show richness, yet with enough cut to pair with roasted fish and white meats, while the reds are robust and spicy, begging for long braises and hearty stews. GAMBLE FAMILY Sauvignon Blanc Yountville Gamble Vineyard 2020 (92, $28) Fleshy, ripe, succulent; melon, peach, mango, honeysuckle HUSCH Zinfandel Mendocino Old Vines Garzini Ranch 2019 (92, $25) Briary cherry, smoky anise, cracked pepper; old-school, zesty MASSICAN Annia Napa Valley 2020 (92, $30) Beeswax, dried mango, pineapple, fennel pollen, grapefruit, green apple; mouthwatering SEGHESIO Zinfandel Sonoma County Sonoma 2019 (92, $26) Plump, structured; wild berry, underbrush, briar, licorice DRY CREEK Zinfandel Sonoma County Heritage Vines 2019 (91, $26) Blackberry, licorice, toast, underbrush; lively MARKHAM Merlot Napa Valley…

The restlessness that drove a young Robert de Luxembourg around the world and the creativity that made him a successful screenwriter have blended to fuel a steady stream of new ventures, built on the firm foundation of Château Haut-Brion. “Haut-Brion is important,” he explains, “but the rest is just as important. We’ve grown from being a farm, when I started to become involved, to now being a group of companies. That growth has been a significant part of my journey.” Domaine Clarence Dillon has created successful businesses in many aspects of the wine trade, from production through distribution to retail shops and a highly regarded restaurant. “In the years I’ve been here, we have multiplied our revenues and profits by more than 10,” Robert says. (For more on the growing…

For a different topped-toast item that’s equally straightforward, baguette slices are lightly crisped in the oven, rubbed with garlic and dressed with a lemony whipped butter and anchovy. “It’s just a great combination. It’s simple and easy and delicious,” Michael says. “I’d eat that any day of the year.” 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature1 teaspoon lemon zest and ½ a lemon1 baguette1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil1 clove garlic, crushed with skin on12 anchovies, packed in oil1 star anise (optional) 1. Preheat the oven to 400° F. 2. Place softened butter in a bowl with the lemon zest and a little squeeze of lemon juice. Using a small whisk, whip the butter until airy and light. Set aside at room temperature. 3. Cut the baguette on the bias…

Caviar “Tsar Nicoulai Golden Osetra Caviar is the best. It’s a sustainable caviar from the Sacramento Valley in California and you can order directly from their website. We’ll also be adding some of their products to the Cotogna website in the coming months. Good alternative options are Petrossian, Black River or Solex Fine Foods.” ▶ Tsar Nicoulai Golden Osetra Caviar: tsarnicoulai.com ▶ Petrossian: petrossian.com ▶ Black River: blackrivercaviar.com ▶ Solex Fine Foods: solexfinefoods.com Smoked Fish Michael says that if caviar is too pricey, feel free to substitute it with a smoked fish such as salmon, trout or sturgeon. “Russ & Daughters delivers nationally. If someone were looking for another source, I’d recommend checking out your local specialty grocers and fish mongers. They’ll have the highest quality product and be able to provide specific recommendations.”…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 96 Azelia Barolo Cerretta 2017 $149 ITALY Decadent cherry and currant aromas signal this vibrant, complex red, whose core of ripe fruit defines the palate, with supporting roles from eucalyptus, leather, licorice, tar and mineral. The tannins are dense and alive, while the finish goes on and on. Best from 2026 through 2050. 300 cases made, 195 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta 2017 $90 ITALY This red boasts a beautiful balance between its cherry, strawberry, floral, eucalyptus and mineral aromas and flavors. Supple and elegant, despite the resonant tannins and lively acidity that boost the lingering aftertaste, with fine length. Don’t think about pulling the cork…