Indholdsfortegnelse for November 2017 i Allure

After Chanel’s haute couture show—yet another dazzling display of set design (a re-creation of the Eiffel Tower) and those signature tweeds—house perfumer Olivier Polge explained the impetus behind the brand’s latest scent, Gabrielle: “There’s a larger way of putting on fragrance [today] that calls for a more stretched identity,” he said. “You influence the breeze.” Scrolling through Instagram, it eerily feels as if everyone is following the same algorithms and formulas to, well, “influence the breeze.” That’s why actress Kristen Stewart, a Chanel ambassador and the face of Gabrielle, feels like (forgive me) such a breath of fresh air. Stewart has carved her own distinctive path, forsaking her Twilight years for an impressive list of smaller projects (Clouds of Sils Maria, Still Alice) that have won her critical acclaim. But…

Makeup “Kerry has perfect skin,” said Daly, who used the palms of her hands to heat up a tinted moisturizer before applying it to Washington’s skin. On the lids, she blended gold eye shadow with another shade that approximated Washington’s skin tone. Daly then groomed the brows and finished the look with a mauve lip color. “We wanted to make little changes—like eye shadow, eyeliner, or lipstick—each time to keep it fun,” said Daly. Hair Hairstylist Takisha Sturdivant-Drew blow-dried Washington’s hair, keeping the integrity of the actress’s naturally curly texture. Then the fun began. She adorned Washington’s hair (which she first braided and then brushed with a toothbrush to look undone) with gold before transforming her with wigs that she’d made (from her line, TSD Hair Extensions). The final look…

I want to tell you a story about science, determination, and beauty. I first met Francesco Clark at Mademoiselle magazine, where he was the assistant special projects director and I was a senior editor. He eventually left for a gig at Harper’s Bazaar, and I departed the next year. Soon after, on Memorial Day 2002, he jumped headfirst into the shallow end of a swimming pool at his friend’s time-share, mistaking it for the deep end because the ladders were wrongly placed on that side. His chin hit the bottom, shattering two vertebrae. His left lung collapsed and his left vocal cord was paralyzed and surgeons told him he wouldn’t live through the night. Against all odds he survived, but at 24, Fran was paralyzed from the neck down. After…

MacGyver never set out to obliterate lipstick clichés with a repurposed tool (he was always tied up with more trivial things, like rescuing civilians). Which is why we’re lucky to have Pat McGrath. The makeup artist has spent her career MacGyvering—nay, McGrathing!—aspirational makeup looks from raw materials on hand. And Maison Margiela, a brand that continuously draws inspiration from crazytown, is in many ways her fashion analogue. For its couture show, McGrath layered her (very new, very good) Lust MatteTrance lipsticks in Elson and Obsessed underneath crimson foil to create truly dimensional shine. It was a feat of ingenuity, daring, and, yes, bravery. Plus, it just looks insanely cool.…

How do you turn Eminem’s laundry into a career as a celebrity makeup artist and beauty entrepreneur? It’s complicated. First, you’ll need to score the laundry-room night shift in the costume department for 8 Mile. At least this is how it went down for AJ Crimson. Then work hard enough that the boss, Oscar-winning costume designer Mark Bridges, offers you his Los Angeles guest room so you can pursue your Hollywood-makeup-artist dreams. Then you buy a $250 Greyhound ticket out of Detroit and hit Sunset Plaza every day to network your way into a makeup gig with will.i.am. Parlay that into a regular post with will.i.am’s friend Fergie. Start touring as a makeup artist for Christina Milian, and Hilary Duff, and Estelle. That’s when you’ll want to meet Forest Whitaker’s…

“Those platform shoes, honey! I would live in those shoes. I want to be buried in them.” FAVORITE THINGS JEWELRY: “Anything with crystal or stone.” accessory: “Backpacks in every color, shape, and size.” FOOTWEAR: “Birkenstocks with socks.” DENIM: “Midrise with elastic blend, because no amount of full denim will fit my bootay.” FRAGRANCE: “Lavender.” MAKEUP: “Nyx liquid eyeliners because they come in damn near every shade. One day I’m going to walk out of the house with rainbow eyes. Just wear them all at once.” INSTAGRAM ACCOUNT: “Anything that has to do with animals.” BOOK: “Get a Life That Doesn’t Suck by Michelle DeAngelis.” CHEAT MEAL: “Tacos. Or spaghetti Bolognese.” FILM: “Tie between Fight Club and Coming to America.” vacation: “Sedona, Arizona. I used to spend summers there growing up.”…

Table of Contents, page 4: Ji Oh cotton top, $395. Jiohny.com. Mara Hoffman cotton top, $250. Mara hoffman.com. Lemaire cotton top, $490. Lemaire.fr. A.W.A.K.E. cotton-blend top, $545.Neimanmarcus.com. Cover Look, page 20: Gucci Jacquard dress, $3,850. Gucci.com. Dior silk organza dress, $20,000. Dior stores. Oblik Atelier earrings, $195. Oblik-atelier.com. Prada cigaline technical dress, $1,700. Select Prada stores. Page 23: Prabal Gurung silk chiffon top, $1,095. Prabal gurung.com. Talking Beauty With Constance Wu, page 30: Zero + Maria Cornejo viscose silk dress with belt, $1,195. Zero maria cornejo.com. The2Bandits earrings, $48. The2 bandits.com. Page 33: Gabriela Hearst cashmere top, $595. Gabriela hearst.com. Altuzarra triacetate polyester jacket, $1,995. Nordstrom stores. Elements of Style, page 52: Marni alpaca coat, $15,030. Marni stores. Emilio Pucci embellished jumpsuit, price available upon request. Emilio Pucci stores. Fendi…

With her melodic name and sultry vibe, you might think French makeup artist Violette is a master of smoky eyes and smudgy red lips. You wouldn’t be wrong, just like you wouldn’t be wrong if you said Einstein was good at math. It’s when you see Violette reach into her kit and pull out a turkey baster, some scraps of denim, and sidewalk chalk that you realize this 33-yearold has a whole lot of tricks up her Isabel Marant sleeves. The newly appointed global beauty director for Estée Lauder is not short on surprises. She’s been known to splatter neon powders across models’ eyes and cheeks until the features morph into abstract art and to pile on glitter until eyelids look like miniature disco balls. In “Mouthing Off” (page 100),…

What does your daily skin-care routine look like? “I have eczema, and I’ve been going to a dermatologist since I was eight years old. I’ve had a long time to think about moisturizing and things like that. The routine that I stick to religiously is that I never, ever sleep with makeup on. At the very least I take it off, but I try to really wash my skin after that.” And your daily makeup routine? “Well, I’m lucky that I get to wake up and put my shoes on and then go sit in a chair and have somebody make me look beautiful, you know? When I’m not working, I try to not wear a lot of makeup. I have my foundation and moisturizer, and that’s it.” What hair…

I don’t like how my skin looks when it’s powdered,” says Wu. “I prefer dewy skin over matte.” Her favorite base: Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation (right). “There is no part of your anatomy, be it breasts or genitalia, that makes you a real woman.” M y small breasts don’t bother me. In fact, I love them. But I didn’t always feel that way. I grew up at a time when people said, “Real women have curves.” But I didn’t have curves. Did that mean I wasn’t a real woman? I couldn’t look up to models, either, because they were tall and waifish. I’m short, and I’ve always had a soft belly. So in high school, in an effort to be a “real” woman, I started wearing padded bras. When…

Health-food-inspired beauty potions can be a little absurd. (Remember kale-infused nail polish? We barely do, either.) But turmeric-laced skin care, like Clarins’s newest Double Serum and Julep Cushion Complexion 5-in-1 Skin Perfector, isn’t that. Studies have shown that curcumin, a chemical compound found in turmeric, can decrease UV damage (it’s a natural antioxidant) and clear up acne (it’s also antibacterial) when applied to the skin. It may also reduce collagen breakdown when taken orally, says Rachel Nazarian, a dermatologist in New York City. In fact, we know several dermatologists who take a turmeric supplement every morning. “It can prevent conditions —from skin redness and hair loss to cardiovascular disease —caused by inflammation,” says Kavita Mariwalla, a dermatologist in West Islip, New York. She’s a believer—she pops a 500-milligram pill daily.…

Swivel Beauty: This free app helps you find stylists in New York City and D.C. (and next year, on the West Coast) who can braid, weave, twist, or cut textured hair. I tried (and loved) Ancestral Strands in Brooklyn, where owner Tamara gave me a regal beads-and-braids style with Ethiopian and Fulani influences. Form Beauty: This Web-based hair-care line promised to customize my curl regimen via an online questionnaire. I pulled the trigger on all six suggestions. The selection (a curlelongating cream, a moisture-sealing pomade) was spot-on, but the only product I permanently added to my lineup was the leave-in lotion spray—it keeps my coils amazingly soft and moisturized all day.…

“ PROBIOTICS AREN’T JUST A MARKETING PLOY.” Ever wondered how much impact one person can make in the world? Consider Jamie Lee Curtis. Isn’t she the one single person who taught us all about probiotics in yogurt in the first place? Before those Activia ads, few of us even knew we had a microbiome. In case you didn’t watch a lot of TV a few years back, a refresher: The human microbiome is composed of the bacteria in your body that keep your digestion regular and your body healthy. And that includes your skin. In fact, we’re landlords to more than 10,000 different microbial species at any time. These are the bacteria that help your complexion stay clear and glowing. In theory. With that in mind, I decided to make…

Don’t put too much stock in fancy claims. There are no FDA definitions that govern the use of terms like “hypoallergenic” and “noncomedogenic” on skin-care products; a company can do extensive testing or not, and use them. If you have sensitive skin, avoid products with fragrances or known allergens, like parabens and propylene glycol. If you’re prone to breakouts, look for liquid and gel textures, and be wary of “oil-free” claims—a product can be poreclogging and not contain oil. And there are no specific federal definitions for “clinically proven” or dermatologist-tested” either. So what to do if you want a super effective product? Keep reading. Read to the end. Ingredients are listed in order of their concentrations, “except for ones that are less than 1 percent of the formula and…

the reorganizer Laura Carstensen is the director of the Center of Longevity at Stanford University and the author of A Long Bright Future: Happiness, Health, and Financial Security in an Age of Increased Longevity (PublicAffairs). The average life span has already increased dramatically. What are some of the realities of living longer that we need to address right now? “Life expectancy nearly doubled in the 20th century. And that happened so fast that the culture that guides us through life hasn’t had time to catch up. It does a pretty good job until we reach about 50, which is what life expectancy was 100 years ago. Now, we suddenly have 30 extra years, and we’ve been as unimaginative as we possibly could be in using them. We tacked them all…

it’s like the Serengeti,” Kerry Washington said, arriving on set of what was definitely not a desert in sub-Saharan Africa. We were on location for Allure’s November cover shoot at the Joughin Ranch in California’s San Joaquin Valley. Or, on that day anyway, the San Holy Moly It’s Hot Here Valley. Washington’s Shih Tzu– Yorkie mix, Josephine Baker (“Josie B.”), sat next to her as the crew battled the stifling heat—and, unexpectedly, extreme fatigue—with water and handheld fans. “Kerry [told me that she] worked all night long on Scandal and came straight here,” makeup artist Francelle Daly said. And then added, referring to Washington or possibly her famous alter ego, Olivia Pope, “It’s amazing how resilient she is.”…

24 Number of products beauty vlogger and CoverGirl spokesperson James Charles used to re-create Snapchat’s galaxy filter with makeup. 1962 Year the Lovelace Woman in Space Program was terminated because of a lack of funding—and concerns over how women’s menstrual cycles would affect their ability to work in space. 0.007 Seconds slower humans age in space than on Earth, due to relative velocity time dilation—the phenomenon in which time slows as speed increases. 100 Number of tampons NASA engineers planned to pack for Sally Ride’s one-week mission when she became the first American female astronaut to enter orbit in 1983. (She let them know that half that amount would be more than enough.) 50 Percentage of the 2016 class of astronauts at NASA that was female. 33 Feet in the…

My jawline has never been chiseled, despite my small frame. I’d tried everything— zappy microcurrent facials, intense facial massages, sweaty mustard baths—to give it some definition. In the end, all it took was a piece of porcelain. Gua sha is a traditional East and Southeast Asian healing technique in which a smooth, credit-card-size “board” is pressed along the skin of the body, and it’s been adapted for the face and neck at studios like Treatment by Lanshin in Brooklyn and WellStream Acupuncture in Los Angeles. The idea is that light pressure releases fascial and muscular tension and moves sluggish lymph fluid. After my first 60-minute treatment, my neck looked longer and thinner, and my jawline cut a sharper silhouette—for two months. While gua sha’s benefits haven’t been clinically studied, practitioners…

Just before he got married in the fall of 1792, German merchant Wilhelm Muelhens received a bottle of aqua mirabilis from a Carthusian monk as a wedding gift. Back then, aqua mirabilis was a tonic, made with extracts of bergamot, lemon, and orange, that was believed to have healing powers—but above all, it smelled amazing. Muelhens decided to make his own aqua mirabilis in his home on the Glockengasse in Cologne. In 1794 Napoleon’s forces swept through. One of the lesser-known side effects of an invasion by a notorious French general soon to be emperor: His forces numbered all the buildings in the city, effectively giving them addresses. Muelhens lived at what was marked 4711, which later inspired the name of the scent. As ruler, Napoleon demanded that all internal…

How do you know someone is a vegan? Don’t worry, they’ll tell you. That’s the old joke, of course. As it turns out, even if they don’t announce it, their clear, luminous skin might. For a long time, dermatologists struggled to prove what their vegan patients suspected and science is finally catching on to. “The rates of hormonal acne I see have gone up so much,” says Miami dermatologist S. Manjula Jegasothy. “It’s all coming from the hormones that the animals we eat are being fed or injected with.” Nonorganic hamburgers and chicken can cause hormone imbalances that really get the oil glands going, which means breakouts and the massive cystic honkers that everyone hates. Sure, some vegans live on French fries and Oreos (yup, they’re vegan), but those are…

“WITH THIS NEW DISCOVERY, I FEEL TRULY HOPEFUL FOR THE FUTURE OF ACNE TREATMENTS.” ANTIOXIDANT CURES Whitney Bowe, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York City, researches free radicals and acne. “Cutting-edge antioxidant skin patches are being developed: Tiny needles on the underside of the patches pierce your skin and—according to a handful of early but promising studies—push antioxidants deep into the skin. The needles then melt away without a trace. These patches may offer a better, faster way to smooth and brighten skin at home than anything we can hope to achieve with traditional serums, which tend to work wonders in labs but rarely yield those same results in patients. Patches that enhance the penetration of…

Google “cosmetics tested on animals in 2017,” and amazingly, you won’t get zero results. While almost no companies still test on animals inside the U.S. and the practice has been officially banned in the E.U., there’s one major reason you’re still going to get all those hits: China. “China’s regulatory agencies require animal testing of imported cosmetics and domestically manufactured ones, with some exceptions,” says Erin Hill, a cofounder and the president of the Institute for In Vitro Sciences, a company that promotes non-animal testing. Hill recently signed a memorandum of understanding with the Chinese government on adopting nonanimal testing methods. In other words, she’s lobbying against the country’s animal- testing mandate. “One reason the Chinese authorities are cautious about changing regulations is that the burden of safety in China…

$30.06 The price we paid for 18 Kylie Lip Kits on dhgate.com. 1 The number of typos on the box. 4,016 The search results for “Kylie Lip Kits” on dhgate.com at press time. 2 The hours it took for our lips to stop tingling after we used one of our new kits. $522 The price of 18 lip kits on the Kylie Cosmetics site. 10 Years you could spend in prison for selling counterfeit products just once.…