Indholdsfortegnelse for January 2018 i Allure

Every night for a week in sixth grade, I tried to make my eyes rounder with a piece of Scotch tape. (Imagine that Clockwork Orange scene but with a clear piece of tape. Beauty torture porn.) Misguided, I know, but I figured that if braces could straighten out my teeth over time, maybe I could train my eyelids to open wider in a matter of time as well. Like so many young girls, I spent years feeling self-conscious about parts of my appearance, but my eyes—so different from everyone else’s outside my family— were a constant target. Once I discovered fake lashes, I loved how they gave me the doll look that’s so popular in—you guessed it—pretty much all of Asia. If they weren’t such a drag to put on…

Most lash strips and extensions today are made of a flexible polymer called polybutylene terephthalate (which sounds scary but isn’t—even the Environmental Working Group gives it a thumbs-up) or sterilized human hair, a popular material among PETA-approved brands like Ardell. Some, however, still use mink or fox hair, because they’re lightweight and mimic natural lashes’ thickness and texture. And although companies often claim to use only hair that comes out when the animals are brushed, “it’s really difficult to know the truth,” says makeup artist Katey Denno. Silk lashes look as realistic —and feel as lightweight—as fur, but they’re not an option either if you’re vegan. Whatever you go with, you want lashes that are soft but not highshine. “Shiny plastic lashes tend to look extra fake next to real…

False lashes are only as good as the glue that keeps them from dangling from your eyelid. Look for a formula free of potentially irritating formaldehyde and drying alcohol (most now are). Makeup artists love Kiss Strip Lash Adhesive and Duo Dark Brush On Striplash Adhesive because they dry black and matte and stay hidden along the lash line. Whether you choose a dark or clear glue (makeup artist Michelle Radow uses a clear version of the Duo Brush On glue to touch up actors between takes on set), follow up with a swipe of water-based eyeliner (try Urban Decay Perversion Waterproof Fine-Point Eye Pen) to hide any traces. “Wax- or oil-based liners, such as pencils or creams, can cause glue to break down,” says cosmetic chemist Ginger King.…

1 NICK BAROSE Apply colorful shadow to your lids and lower lash lines with a damp brush, then switch to a dry brush for the creases so the color fades away. 2 FRANCELLE DALY Fix a broken eye shadow palette with rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. Move the shards back together, spray, then press lightly and let dry. 3 PAT McGRATH Use a fluffy eye shadow brush to blend and buff cream shadow. 4 MALLY RONCAL You can make any color eye shadow multidimensional by layering two textures of the same shade. Press a shimmering powder over a sparkling cream. 5 NICK BAROSE The old rule—to play up your eyes or lips, not both—is begging to be broken. Just keep your eye makeup and lipstick in the same color family and they’ll work together.…

“IT’S NOT ABOUT HOW I APPEAR TO OTHER PEOPLE.” It was hard not to feel overcome with joy when fencer Ibtihaj Muhammad won a bronze medal at the 2016 Summer Olympics. In case you aren’t familiar with her story:Muhammad became the first American woman to medal at the Olympic Games wearing a hijab. But she was also wearing something else that day that caught our attention:perfectly winged inky-black eyeliner. “I always wear it when I compete,” she says. “I believe women should wear and do what makes them feel best. If you feel great, you’ll conquer anything in your path.” The 32-year-old swears by Sephora Collection’s liquid eyeliner. “Some eyeliners can be dull or dry shiny. This one is very pigmented and stays matte.” When asked who her regular makeup…

THE WAY SHE SEES IT MODEL EDIE CAMPBELL TALKS TO ALLURE BOOKINGS DIRECTOR RO PENULIAR ABOUT LIFE, MODELING, AND THE HAZARDS OF MINT LIP BALM. On recently speaking out about abuse in the modeling industry: “The conversation needed to open up beyond just Terry Richardson [the photographer accused of sexual harassment and exploitation]. I hope that it brings about a change. Fashion needs to be more open about the darker ways in which we operate.” On more literal eye-openers: “YSL Touche Éclat gets out all your grim, grungy bits, like the bags under your eyes. That and a little bit of lip balm on your lids and suddenly you look miraculously fresh. It’s horrible when you get a mint-flavored lip balm and you put that on your eyes, though. You’re…

Revlon PhotoReady Insta-Filter Foundation I love my blending sponge. But I’m also very lazy. Happily, this bottle has a cushiony streakerasing sponge built in. Pump it once, and the creamy, mediumcoverage foundation appears in its center, so you can apply and buff it into an almost airbrushed wash of color without the laborious extra step. Which is something of a dream come true. (Did I mention I’m lazy?) Rimmel London Lasting Finish 25H Breathable Foundation The cotton swab is an unsung hero of the beauty world. It’s a brilliant little applicator. And now you can buy foundation with a jumbo version (that’s felted, not cotton). It quickly blended this lightweight, highly pigmented foundation around my nose and redness-prone chin as well as my ring finger once did. Only without any…

jen chae, 33 @frmheadtotoe / Olathe, Kansas I grew up in Kansas. And there was very little diversity in Olathe, Kansas. A lot of my Korean family members used to say, “Your eyes are pretty big for being a monolidded person, so it’s OK.” But it was never “That’s desirable” or “That’s pretty.” It’s important to come from a place of positivity versus negativity. If you’re wearing eyeliner because you’re selfconscious about your eye shape, is that really beauty? Now I have a oneyearold daughter. She’s half white. One of the first things my Asian friends said when she was born was, “Oh, she has double eyelids,” “She has a crease,” or “Some people pay good money for eyes like that.” I think she’s absolutely beautiful. But I don’t want…

We will furrow you disapprovingly or cock you flirtatiously, no matter what shape you come in or the color of your strands. Because, Eyebrow, visual communicator, patch of hair on our forehead: You have come to represent what is most liberating about beauty in 2018. The end of the status quo. The transcendence of trends. The pendulum is no longer swinging from skinny to bushy. Because we tossed the pendulum, and the pressures and expectations that came with it. Think about that for a second. Two years ago we were all smearing on Latisse trying to be Cara Delevingne. The mandate for every celebrity interview: Include a quote about the brow regrets of your teens. Shit, even George Clooney overplucked in the ’90s. (OK, that’s a joke.) Now skinny arches…

FOR FULL, FANNED-OUT LASHES: CoverGirl Peacock Flare. The fine teeth on this wand look more like a comb than a brush, so they’re best at separating and gripping individual lashes to lift them up. The bristles’ lengths are staggered, and the funky undulations look cool but miss some hairs—use the tip of the wand to pull limp lashes up. FOR THICKER, CHUNKIER LASHES: L’Oréal Paris Voluminous X Fiber. This two-step mascara system comes with a black priming formula that doubles the amount of time you’d usually allot to mascara-ing your eyes but adds noticeable girth to lashes. The fiberfilled mascara that you put on next has a formula that’s on the drier side, so it builds additional bulk quickly but can look pixelated or rough if you go overboard (stop…

DON’T TOSS YOUR LASHES AT THE END OF THE NIGHT—YOU CAN REWEAR EACH STRIP UP TO 20 TIMES, SAYS MAKEUP ARTIST AND BEAUTY MOGUL HUDA KATTAN (WHO WEARS A FULL SET OF LASHES AT LEAST FIVE DAYS A WEEK). HERE’S HOW: REMOVE DRIED-ON GLUE, PRESS LASHES BETWEEN COTTON PADS SOAKED IN OIL-FREE MAKEUP REMOVER (IT’LL LEAVE LESS RESIDUE) FOR 30 SECONDS, AND WIPE AWAY LEFTOVER MAKEUP. ONCE THE LASHES ARE DRY, STORE THEM IN THEIR ORIGINAL PACKAGING— THEY’LL BE READY AGAIN WHEN YOU ARE.…

We’re coming up on Bi-Facil’s 30th birthday. Back in 1989, there were hardly any biphase (oil-and-water) cleansers. There was one around then, by the French brand Jeanne Piaubert, and it was so good at taking off all kinds of makeup that my boss at Lancôme asked me to make one specifically for the eye area. You’d shake it, the oil and water phases would mix, and then they’d separate again. I tried so hard to make a pink-and-blue version that would turn violet when shaken, but only the blue color was stable; the pink became transparent. So I went with cool blue —I thought it’d look calming—but it started turning people’s contact lenses blue in the development stage! Back to the drawing board. I spent eight months testing versions of…

They squint in exasperation, crumple in disgust, and deepen with joy. They’re teeny—less than a centimeter wide—but they can be a source of endless frustration or a point of pride. They’re the result of a muscle twitch that’s as uncontrollable as it is fleeting, but whether they’ve sent us to the dermatologist in a panic or reminded us of our mother’s laugh, they’re part of who we are. They go by unpronounceable names (orbicularis oculi contractions) and cryptic ones (Duchenne markers). But the most common, the most weighted, is crow’s-feet. And they’re more complicated, more nuanced, than we ever thought. “When people come in wanting to get rid of their crow’s-feet, we really think through whether this is the best choice,” says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston. “More than…

Watch Ibtihaj Muhammad master her perfect winged liner at allure.com/ibtihaj.…

I worked with Mr. Uemura for many years—after I graduated from university in the ’80s, I began training with him. He especially loved eyes. I think it’s because your eyes are how you convey personality. A lot of the makeup he developed was made to accentuate the eyes. It was always about making a dramatic impression, and for that Mr. Uemura relied on eyelashes, false ones. He had this lash curler in his kit that he’d use on set, but at the time, eyelash curlers were designed for rounder lash lines, not the straighter ones many Asians have. He wanted to make one that would work on any eye, and he did—he engineered a shape that’s slightly wider and a little less curved than a standard curler, so it’s perfect…

A Milder Dye:Clairol Nice ’n Easy The 53- year- old formula has been overhauled in the name of gentleness. Clairol’s scientists replaced PPD and PTD (colorants found in over 90 percent of hair dyes that can trigger allergic reactions) with a new molecule, whose structure is shaped in a way that won’t set off your immune system’s alarms. Bonus:The dye, out next month, now smells pleasantly of lilies, heliotrope, and mimosa flowers, not ammonia. A More Reparative Conditioner:Nexxus Keraphix Treatment The first Keraphix Creme Reconstructor launched in the 1980s, and you can still buy a bottle—if you’re willing to bid $100 or so on eBay. The 2018 remake uses electrostatic forces to bond proteins to negatively charged, damaged spots on the hair shaft, patching up missing proteins in hair destroyed…

There are many cost-effective ways to get dilated pupils or bloodshot eyes—I can think of two right off the top of my head, although neither are legal in the state of New York. And the compassionate, wizened gaze you earn after several decades on this earth is free. But if you’re in a rush, have no illegal drugs, or are Julianne Moore in The Hours, your best bet is Mitchell Cassel, an optometrist who’s turned colored contacts into an art. He’ll hook you up with the hazel eyes you’ve always wanted for a cool thousand. Or if you’re an actor going for demonic possession, he’ll make you look undead for a couple more. And if you have an eye disfigurement, his prosthetic lenses are, well, priceless. Cassel started by outfitting…

Creamy eye shadows and glosses If you don’t have creases, your shadow will never wind up all caked up in them. Take advantage of that by playing with the creamy, glossy formulas that don’t wear well on deeper-set eyes. Quynh’s favorites are Tom Ford Cream Color for Eyes and M.A.C. Studio Eye Gloss. Smudgeproof eyeliners Most women with monolids actually have a shallow, low crease that rubs against the lash line. This means eyeliner has to be extra resilient to stay put. Both Lee and Lin like Em Cosmetics Brush Tip Illustrative Eyeliner for its super fine tip and refusal to budge. Chae swears by Kat Von D’s equally immovable felt-tip Tattoo Liner. Don’t like liquid? Quynh suggests the quick-drying Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner. Lightweight mascaras Many Asian women…

{eyes} {NEW YORK CITY} INJECTABLES Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, Joshua Zeichner. Using a combo of Botox and fillers, Zeichner airbrushes crow’s-feet and tightens undereye bags. Price: available upon request. Address: 5 E. 98th St. Phone: 212-241-9728. BROW SHAPING AND TINTING W. Bob Scott. Ashley Graham and Hannah Fallis Bronfman rely on Scott for full-and-feathery brows (his secret: tinting baby hairs). Price: $60 and up. Address: house calls only. Email: william.scott200@gmail.com. THREADING Shobha. Even stubby brows emerge longer and more elegantly arched. Price: $22 and up. Address: 594 Broadway. Phone: 212-931-8363. LASH EXTENSIONS Envious Lashes, Clementina Richardson. Ultrafluttery, dense lashes à la Naomi Campbell (she’s also a client). Price: $105 and up. Address: 303 Fifth Ave. Phone: 646-397-8877. MICROBLADING Three Kings Tattoo, Bethany Wolosky. Give Bethany two and…

More than five centuries ago, an Italian painter said the eyes “embrace the beauty of all the world.” And if that’s not superlative enough, he went on to say that eyes have “made predictions of future events by means of the course of the stars.” The man was Leonardo da Vinci, and he would create the most famous woman—and the most famous eyes—in the world. She was Lisa Gherardini, now known as the Mona Lisa. “The Mona Lisa is especially striking in her direct address,” says Dennis Geronimus, the chair of the art-history department at New York University. “She makes eye contact with us, even if obliquely. This may not seem so revolutionary now, but it certainly was in the first decade of the 1500s, when Leonardo began the Mona…

COLOR: Black lashes work on most people (you should top them off with a coat of mascara to blend the fake lashes with your own, anyway), but dark brown looks less harsh if you’re very fair. CUT: Look for a strip with hairs that vary in length and thickness, the way your real lashes do. FIT: Choose a band that’s flexible, so it’ll conform to the curve of your lash line, and thin, which makes it easier to conceal than bulky ones. Lash strips typically extend longer than your natural lash line does. Trim the band with small, sharp scissors, or try “trio” lashes, which are about a fifth of the length of a regular strip and can be placed to conform to any eye shape or length. 1911 YEAR…

Accent: Also known as half lashes, these are precut strips for use on the outer half of the upper lash line. Bottom: Sparser, shorter versions of strip lashes designed for, yes, your bottom lashes. Double-stacking: Placing two strips of false lashes on each eye, for megathick fringe. Add one more and you’re triple-stacking—and possibly compromising your ability to keep your eyes open. Individuals: Groupings of several to a dozen lash hairs knotted together in a V shape, meant to add targeted density or fill in gaps. Also known as flares. Knot-free: Individual lashes that are glued together (rather than knotted) at their base, so they’re better camouflaged against your natural lash line. Length: Refers to how far each lash protrudes from the lash line—short, medium, or long. Go shorter for…

13 Milliseconds the human eye needs to be exposed to an image in order to send the brain enough visual input to identify it. 1.3 Millions of Americans who are legally blind. 3 Approximate number of times per second our eyes shift their gaze. 2009Year America’s Next Top Model judge Tyra Banks coined the term “smize”—to smile with your eyes. 4Number of hours it can take Israeli makeup artist Tal Peleg (@tal_peleg) to paint a miniature masterpiece— such as Dali’s The Persistence of Memory—on her own eyelid. 2 Number of eye colors a person with heterochromia (like Kate Bosworth) has. 188 Average number of eyelashes that humans have on each eye. 10 Minutes it takes for LASIK—a visioncorrection surgery performed with a laser—to be done on one eye. 55,127,877 Number of views (and…

1. We shouldn’t have called them “scary crevices.” But we did, in 2006, and then we doubled down with:“The most evil eye skin problems can be combated—without voodoo.” So bonus points for being creepy and weird! Then we just got personal (in the same story):“You don’t have to be a chronic squinter like George W. to end up with crow’s-feet.” 2. We definitely should have thought twice before quoting a plastic surgeon who said this in 2008:”For young people with highly expressive, hyperactive muscles, Botox can stop the expressive muscle activity and thereby smooth wrinkles [like crow’s-feet].” 3. And we probably shouldn’t have been so liberal with our use of the word “simple” in 2009:“The best prevention for this type of wrinkling is relatively simple:Try to relax, wear sunglasses, and don’t read…

1862 Guerlain releases La Pyrommee, the brand’s first kohl powder liner in a tube. It evolves into the Terracotta Kôhl that Guerlain sells today. Early 1900s Russian ballerinas go heavy on the eyeliner in performance. Eye-makeup sales skyrocket. WWII Wartime rationing causes a nylon shortage. American women fake the look of a stocking seam by drawing it on the backs of their legs with eyeliner. 69 B.C. Cleopatra is born. The Egyptian queen will become the poster child for eyeliner in years to come. Her eyeliner—made of lead-based kohl— was thought to ward off the evil eye. 1920s King Tut’s tomb is discovered, and Egyptian beauty becomes a meme of the era. Some women approximate the look with a homemade mixture of petroleum jelly and soot. 1954 Maybelline launches the…

For the morning after you went to bed with makeup on: Neutrogena Deep Clean Purifying Mask’s skin-cleansing moringa-seed extract and softening shea butter remedy bad behavior. For the week your calendar looks like a game of Tetris: The St. Ives Soothing Sheet Mask and Mary Kay TimeWise Repair Lifting Mask team soothing oat extract with water-attracting hyaluronic acid to plump and perk up tired skin. For a back-from-Tulum glow in Cincinnati: Pond’s Hydrate + Glow Sheet Mask’s niacinamide fades dark spots for a brighter complexion, while its papaya extract exfoliates for radiance. For days when your skin is just...meh: Elizabeth Arden’s Superstart Probiotic Boost Mask is loaded with smoothing ceramides and plumping sodium hyaluronate to breathe life into lifeless or dull skin.…

Tresemmé’s new compressed mists emit smaller beads of tacky liquid than most hair sprays, so strands are bound by smaller, more flexible polymers, not solidly lacquered together. Elnett now contains argan oil to leave a softer, silkier finish than its beloved predecessor. OGX’s spray wax reimagines hold, too:Its waxy formula can sleeken a ponytail or keep mussed-up hair exactly as you (un)intentionally left it.…

One day, by mistake, I received a click pen at YSL Beauté. It was mixed in with a lip-gloss delivery, and I had a flash of inspiration. As a makeup artist, I’d mix foundation with toner and moisturizer to give skin radiance. With this pen, I could bottle my recipe and change the rules of concealer. This one would make you look fresh and healthy, as if you’d been napping for hours, and you could brush it under your eyes to brighten them. I’d need luminizing pigments, so I approached labs—and everyone looked at me as if I were crazy. This was 1992, and the look was matte, powdery skin; “radiance” and “glow” didn’t mean anything. I finally found a lab in Japan that would work with me. We made…

kavita mariwalla, 40 “Dark circles are probably the number one complaint of South Asian women like me,” says Mariwalla. “I’ve had them my whole life.” And because the darkness can worsen from little things like leaving the house (sun exposure), breathing (seasonal allergies), and being a human in 2018 (staring at a screen a lot), Mariwalla is diligent about using sunscreen and pigment-inhibiting products. “The dark circles are really a point of self-consciousness for me,” she says. “You don’t want your patients to think their doctor is tired.” her MVPs SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum. “An antioxidant serum boosts the power of your sunscreen.” La Roche-Posay Anthelios AOX Daily SPF 50 Sunscreen. “I apply it up to my eye sockets; blinking brings it up to my lower eyelids.” Dermablend Cover…

Table of Contents, page 4: Max Mara cotton dress, $835. Max Mara, Costa Mesa, California. 800-782-8888. Earrings, $75 each. Istilllove you nyc.com. Winged Victory, page 41: Ellery cotton dress, $1,995. Ellery.com. Juliette Laloë, $150. Juliette laloe.com. Eye Max, page 45: Versace silk jacket, $2,025. Select Versace stores. Page 46: Louis Vuitton silk jacket, price available upon request. 866-VUITTON. Looking Glasses, page 59: Krewe glasses, $315. Krewe.com. Page 60: Dior glasses, $495. Dior stores. Ellery leather jacket, $2,995. Ellery.com. Tory Burch cashmere top, $248. Toryburch.com. Page 61: Miu Miu glasses, $410. Select Miu Miu stores. Louis Vuitton wool jacket and cotton top, prices available upon request. 866-VUITTON. Page 62: Mykita glasses, price available upon request. Mykita, N.Y.C. 212-343-9100. Page 63: Linda Farrow glasses, $750. Lindafarrow.com. Miu Miu leather jacket, price available…