Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2018 i Allure

By the time you read this, the world will likely have been thrust into full royal-wedding mania. It feels slightly strange to be writing about a royal wedding in an issue devoted to disruptors. After all, the British monarchy is ultimately a throwback—a reminder of an antiquated, complicated ruling class that feels like the antithesis of modern values. But I’ve got princesses on the brain, so let’s discuss. As the mother of a daughter, I’ve seen firsthand how princess-dom is sold to little girls. Princess parties and Jasmine/Rapunzel/Anna costumes flew into our lives between preschool and kindergarten. As a woman who was raised on a steady diet of fairy tales, I vividly remember watching Cinderella for the first time at a church in my small hometown. All wasp-waisted and wispy-limbed,…

NEWS FLASH Gucci Westman In a perfect, always-fashion-week world, we’d have Pat McGrath on glitter duty, Charlotte Tilbury painting our cat eyes, and—without a doubt—Gucci Westman on glowy-skin patrol. Luckily, we can now get a kind-of-sort-of backstage pass with Westman Atelier, the makeup artist’s own collection of complexion-focused products, like bronzers and foundations. Our favorite is the Super Loaded Tinted Highlighter (shown here), a velvety, peach-tinged cream that blends like a dream and leaves you with a shimmery, iridescent flush (and also works on eyelids). —LOREN SAVINI SMELL RICH LIKE BATHING IN DOM PÉRIGNON, ROSÉ, AND PEARL DUST: EXTRAVAGANT SUMMER SCENTS THAT ARE BRIGHT, GRACEFUL, AND TOTALLY INDULGENT.…

Like every custom hair-care thing, Prose’s site has a loooong questionnaire that takes into account your hair type, your scalp’s oil profile, everything else about your life (your fitness proclivities, your wildest dreams), and your favorite scent (yes, “none, thank you” is an option). Unlike every other custom hair-care thing, it also formulates products for you based on the water hardness and humidity at your ZIP code. MOTOR CITY TWO NEW MACHINES MAKE BASIC RITUALS MIND-BLOWING. Foreo UFO Smart Mask. Snap a custom sheet mask (hyaluronic acid for day, ginseng and olive oil for night) into this Roomba-like device and glide it along your face for a mini massage and skin-rejuvenating LED light show. T3 Cura Luxe Hair Dryer. Close your eyes and imagine a hair dryer that pauses when…

Last month, a big man in an even bigger tank top gave me my first tattoo. I was told it wouldn’t hurt, that it would be “soothing.” (It did; it was not.) Getting a tattoo feels like somebody dragging a needle across your skin repeatedly because that is exactly what is happening. And that was only the second most uncomfortable thing about the whole experience. The first most uncomfortable thing was when people began to ask about my tattoo’s meaning and I had nothing to offer them. My tattoo does not honor a dead relative, a lover’s penmanship, or the Chinese characters for happiness, my favorite emotion. It is an outline of a pair of jeans on my thigh because I wear a lot of jeans and I thought it…

Before the three-month waitlists and clients from both coasts, there were just the five Smith sisters, who moved from Guyana to Kansas City. That was over 25 years ago, and the oldest, Glynnis, was beginning to play with a new form of braiding hair. A bubble braid, she’d call it. Her brother’s girlfriend begged her to braid her hair in the same style, and demand zipped through the neighborhood. Glynnis soon found herself braiding for 10 to 12 hours a day, six days a week, and still had to turn away clients. In 2006, she opened Braid Heaven, a five-chair salon on Kansas City’s Lloyd Street. BUBBLE-BRAIDING CREATES THE ILLUSION OF A FULL, FLUFFY HEAD OF NATURAL HAIR. Glynnis Smith has only ever shared her bubble-braiding technique with her four…

There’s been a lot of talk about black-owned and inclusive makeup as a new phenomenon, but the three of you were doing it 15 and 20 years ago. What inspired you? Cynde Watson: “I started as a model—that’s really how I got into makeup artistry. I would be with other models of color, and I would do their makeup because the makeup artists couldn’t. I launched my own line in 2007, and then I moved on to working with Becca. I want to wake up other brands, make them hear our voices, understand what our skin looks like and what it needs in terms of [foundation] tones and formulas.” Danessa Myricks: “I started as a makeup artist back in 2000, when there was [almost] nothing in the store for women…

Talking mirrors are nothing new. They’ve been hanging around, offering blunt appraisals since the year 1812. That’s when the Brothers Grimm first published their shadowy, too-menacing-for-children children’s story about a virginal beauty, a vindictive queen, and an autonomous reflection on the wall. The tale of Snow White has been revisited and reimagined countless times since the early 19th century, with one fictional element kept faithfully intact: Things never end well for the person who consults the magic mirror. Also, no one ever blames the mirror; it assumes zero responsibility for helping a serial narcissist fly into a jealous rage. One has to wonder—with all its omnipotence and insight, why couldn’t the glass just have glossed over some details? (“The fairest of them all? That’s a really subjective question….”). But the…

“THERE’S SO MUCH YOU CAN DO WITH SOMETHING THAT’S SO SIMPLE. IT ALWAYS AMAZES ME.” MAKI RYOKE, MAKEUP ARTIST, “THE BOLD ONES,” PAGE 104 Hometown: “Kagoshima, Japan.” The product she uses every day: “Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 to get rid of dead skin.” The most disruptive moment of the past year: “The #MeToo movement.” The thing that inspires her to break boundaries: “Colors—once you understand how they complement each other, the possibilities become endless. There’s so much you can do with something that’s so simple. It always amazes me.” Kit staple: “Alexandra Soveral’s organic skin-care products hydrate so well and smell heavenly.” The most unexpected item in her kit: “My facial cupping tools. I use them on clients before every shoot to help reduce lines and tighten skin.” On-set playlist:…

Scars are stubborn with a capital S, but if you want to minimize yours, a helper could be in your kitchen cabinet. According to a study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, massaging a blend of oils (in this case, safflower and olive oils were the main players) into a nonkeloid scar (the kind that’s not raised—those need to be injected with cortisone if you want results) can improve its appearance by 14 percent in eight weeks. Oils can provide an optimal healing environment for collagen-building and scar improvement by lubricating and protecting skin, says New York City dermatologist Ellen Marmur. —JESA MARIE CALAOR FIRM ANSWERS THREE NEW PATHS TO TAUTER, PLUMPER, SMOOTHER, SKIN. The tightening gel: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Lift and Firm Sculpting Gel. The gel’s rolling applicator…

Every now and then, a new makeup artist comes along whose work is so whimsical, so color-splashed, so unpretentious that they remind us how delightful makeup can be. And we’re not surprised when they get hired to do 15 shows in a single fashion season. But before makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver was on seemingly every backstage call sheet, he had to hone his craft. “As a teenager, I used to go to warehouse raves and do club-kid makeup on myself and my friends,” he says. “I’d drip blue paint across my eyes and wear smudged lipstick. It was all about being free and having fun.” And after that, he had to get discovered: “I started working the door at an East London club and would wear loads of makeup.…

I TELL HER I WANT TO LOOK LIKE A SNAPCHAT FILTER, AND SHE LAUGHS, WHICH IS AN APPROPRIATE RESPONSE. Let me start by saying that I think my face is doing OK, looks-wise. It is mostly symmetrical except for the bottom half, which is covered by a beard anyway, so you can hardly tell. If you spin around three times and glance in my direction, I bear a passing resemblance to a budget Ryan Reynolds. Google “nose” and the image results look similar to mine. All things considered, I’m doing fine. Or I was, until I downloaded Instagram for the first time and discovered I was a swamp goblin fraudulently squatting in a Utopian, beautiful-people kingdom. There are infinitesimal angles from which to take a photo of your face, and…

ONE OF THE BIGGEST ADVANCES IS A BOUT COLOR, NOT CONVENIENCE. Somewhere between the Kennedy administration and today, lasers went from being the stuff of Russian-spy novels to a staple in dermatologists’ offices. They can erase blotchiness, soften scars, and tighten skin, and they’re now one of the top nonsurgical cosmetic procedures in the country. In some cities, you can duck in for a “laser facial” that’ll take roughly as long as a blowout—30 minutes, in and out. (Though doctors recommend going to trained dermatologists for the service.) But one of the biggest advances is about color, not convenience: For decades, lasers were recommended, pretty much exclusively, for use on lighter skin tones. The ones that targeted pigment in the skin would damage dark skin (or, in the case of…

upward bound Cecilie Bahnson dresses and shorts. Walt Cassidy Studio earrings. Opposite page: Anna Zwick sweater. Necklace (worn as headpiece) from New York Vintage. Makeup colors: Brow Stylist Boost & Set Brow Mascara in Dark Brunette, Infallible Pro Sweep & Lock Setting Powder, and Colour Riche Shine Lipstick in Glossy Fawn by L’Oréal Paris. Details, see Shopping Guide. These pages: Fashion stylist, Beth Fenton. Hair: Nai’vasha Johnson. Makeup: Jen Myles. Manicure: Nettie Davis. Set design: Bryn Bowen. Production: Hinoki Group. Sasha Lane is a total Libra. Astrology is a nonsense system that I wholly buy into, and everything about Lane being a Libra is true: She would disagree with this characterization, as she does when we meet, because that is a classic Libra attitude: They have a steel sense of…

330 B.C. Approximate year Alexander the Great lined his eyes with kohl. 1960 Year John F. Kennedy won the first televised presidential debate against Richard Nixon—with some help from a little makeup. Nixon refused it and looked tired onscreen; made-up Kennedy looked rested and tan. 0 Number of battles Alexander the Great lost. $30,000 Approximate amount French president Emmanuel Macron reportedly spent on makeup services in his first three months in office (that’s about $330 per day). 2000s Era the word “guyliner” was first used in goth circles. 9,679,310 Views (and counting) of one of Patrick Starrr’s most popular makeup tutorials on YouTube, in which he makes up half of his face, leaving the other half bare and unshaven. 19 Number of times it’s appeared in The New York Times since.…

1. Sand & Sky Brilliant Skin Detoxify + Brighten. It’s easy to see why this had a waitlist after it launched last year: The lilac clay toned down our redness and oiliness right off the bat. 2. Yes to Carrots Vitamin-Enriched Kale DIY Powder-to-Clay Mask. It’s the boxed brownie of face masks—add water to powder and get a skin-smoothing kaolin clay and kale paste. 3. Kiehl’s Ginger Leaf & Hibiscus Firming Mask. This overnight mask is the richest of the bunch—perfect for making skin extra soft. (Give it 20 to sink in so it doesn’t rub off on your pillow.) 4. Chantecaille Gold Recovery Mask. Combines skin-firming peptides with anti-inflammatory gold. 5. Kate Somerville Wrinkle Warrior Pink Plumping Mask. This glittering pink gel (so ’80s Jem) plumps lines with hyaluronic…

We first looked at these shimmery turquoise and pink brow creams and thought: Hahahaha! Haha. Ha. Ha? But then: Maybe these are actually amazing. In fact, maybe putting the words “metallic,” “eyebrow,” and “paint” together isn’t weird at all. Yes, the point of makeup is to feel good and enhance our features, but it’s also more than that. Today, makeup is…whatever the hell we want. And sometimes what we want is a pair of powerful, brilliant, Technicolor eyebrows. —LOREN SAVINI LAB REPORT Hair-Loss Pills There’s no “cure” for hair loss, but a prescription from your dermatologist may be on the horizon. An observational study in the International Journal of Dermatology suggests that taking low doses of both spironolactone (a drug used to treat high blood pressure) and oral minoxidil (the…

In a business that’s all about standing out, Halsey stands out. After her featured vocals on the Chain-smokers’ 2016 single “Closer” made her a hit with every pool-party household in America, this radically transparent pop star spent last fall touring for her chart-topping album Hopeless Fountain Kingdom. Earlier this year, she delivered a powerful spoken-word performance at the New York City Women’s March, detailing her own experiences with sexual assault. If you haven’t seen it yet: YouTube. “A Story Like Mine.” Go now; we’ll wait. OK, so there you go: Halsey has no use for falsehoods or obfuscations. In honor of a newly minted collaboration with Yves Saint Laurent Beauty, we asked her to speak her beauty truth and track her evolution from that first major performance to today—with all…

When she was just 22 years old, perfumer Calice Becker (creator of Tommy Girl and Dior J’adore) consulted a cosmetics executive about breaking into the rarefied world of fragrance. She spoke to him about extraction techniques, raw materials, and the innate sensitivity of her nose. The man listened with a finger poised senatorially against his cheek and then offered some sobering advice. “He told me, ‘You are a woman, not connected to the industry, and way too nice to succeed,’” she says. “‘I can see you are not a bitch. It will be difficult for you.’” The first option (being a man) was out of Becker’s control; the second (being a bitch), out of character. Equally offensive to her purist’s sensibility was the fact that the man’s suggestion displayed a…

On Iskra Lawrence, left: Sonia Rykiel dress. For jewelry credits throughout, see Shopping Guide. Makeup colors: Hydro Boost Hydrating Concealer in Light and Hydro Boost Hydrating Lip Shine in True Nude by Neutrogena. On Lily Nova, right: Marc Jacobs dress. Makeup colors: Beyond Perfecting Foundation + Concealer in Linen and Pep-Start Pout Perfecting Balm in Clear by Clinique. Details, see Shopping Guide. These pages: Fashion editor, Coquito Cassibba. Hair: David Colvin. Makeup: Maki Ryoke. Manicure: Honey. Set design: Juliet Jernigan. THE FIGHTER + THE MUSE Body-shamers and comment trolls beware: This model is not afraid to take you on. Iskra Lawrence (opposite page, left), 27, deemed somewhere between “not skinny enough” and “not big enough” by several modeling agencies, decided: You know what? That is totally normal. “Once you accept…

Cover: Attico dress, $1,212. Opening Ceremony stores. Sophie Bille Brahe earrings, $5,880. Dover Street Market, NYC. 646-837-7750. Zoe Chicco earrings, $350. Zoechicco.com. Foundrae ring, $3,495. Foundrae.com. Table of Contents, page 6: Simone Rocha dress, $2,020. Simon Rocha, NYC. 646-810-4785. Marques’Almeida boots, price available upon request. Nordstrom stores. Crown from New York Vintage, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage.com. Becoming Halsey, page 47: Eye M by Ileana Makri earrings, $265. Eye-m-ileanamakri.com. Catbird earring, price available upon request. Catbird nyc.com. Page 48: Annelise Michelson earrings, price available upon request. Annelisemichelson.com. Catbird earring, price available upon request. Catbirdnyc.com. Sasha’s Time, page 98: Cecilie Bahnson dresses and shorts, prices available upon request. Hlorenzo.com. Walt Cassidy Studio earrings, $225. Waltcassidy.com. Necklace from New York Vintage, price available upon request. Newyorkvintage.com. Page 101: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi…