Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2021 i Allure

LINDA WELLS EDITOR IN CHIEF 1991-2015 In a word, how would you describe your editing style? Exacting. I’ve talked to people who say they’re still haunted by my edits. You’re the founding editor of Allure (page 104). How do you feel about being a beauty authority? I’ve always felt like “authority” seems wrong for beauty, because it’s so personal. And that’s one of the greatest things that’s happened in the past 10 years, is that what’s personal has become the definition of beauty. I don’t think you can have authority and individualism together. Any beauty products you’ve used since your editor days? Many, but I especially love L’Oréal Voluminous mascara. I love it so much. I go away and then I come back. PATRICIA TORTOLANI SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR 2003-2017 Your…

In September 2017 we declared we were banning the A-word (as in anti-aging) from our vernacular. “Changing the way we think about aging starts with changing the way we talk about aging,” wrote editor in chief Michelle Lee at the time. Almost four years later, the issue’s cover star, actor, and L’Oréal Paris spokesperson Helen Mirren (near left) considers how the conversation has progressed: [The term anti-aging] is anti-life, isn’t it? We’ve got to create a world where all the steps in life are to be enjoyed—and aging is a part of that. We shouldn’t be anti-anything. Let’s just enjoy the beautiful complexity of what it is to be a human being. My mum always said that when you’re 16, the idea of being 26 is just awful. But when…

In February of 1997, a Procter & Gamble engineer ducked into a meeting with the company’s chief technology officer, a smile on his face, and a secret in his pocket: a strip of translucent food wrap coated in a peroxide whitening solution. Inspired by public interest in dental whitening procedures—and in part by the fact that Colgate was “cleaning their clocks” in the R&D department—P&G, the behemoth behind Crest, had assigned Paul Sagel the task of whitening American smiles independent of American dentists. Just a few decades before, the concept of at-home teeth whitening barely existed. It was discovered by accident when a dentist administering trays of peroxide-rich Gly-Oxide to help treat his patients’ gums observed that it also made their teeth beam. By the late ’80s, the price of…

“You could say it was ‘the Beri’ before it was ‘the Cameron.’ And it was ‘the Cameron’ before it was ‘the Rachel.’ But the haircut goes down in history as ‘the Rachel’ because people saw Jen on their TV every week and they were obsessed with her, and with Friends. The truth is, I didn’t invent the haircut for Rachel Green. I was just able to convince my client and friend Jen to add some layers and try something different. “My first memory of the haircut was when Ward, the rock god of hair, gave the midlength shag with face-framing layers to Beri Smither, who was a major model in the ’90s. I gave a similar cut to Cameron Diaz. And then I gave it to Jen. That’s when Pandora’s…

In-store beauty sampling has long battled a dirty reputation, but in the COVID era, communal swatching and swiping is truly over. But that doesn’t mean you can’t try before you buy—artificial intelligence is stepping further into the beauty spotlight. Ulta Beauty is promoting GLAMlab, a virtual try-on experience in their app, as a safe alternative to shade-swatching. Sephora is encouraging the use of its Virtual Artist, an AR tool available to download as an app on your phone that also facilitates at-home testing, shade matching, and product education. The L’Oréal Paris Makeup Genius app offers similar features, as does the YouCam Makeup app, which has seen “record-high activity” during the pandemic.…

Serious and/or immediate allergic reactions have been reported. They include: itching, rash, red itchy welts, wheezing, asthma symptoms, or dizziness or feeling faint. Get medical help right away if you are wheezing or have asthma symptoms, or if you become dizzy or faint. Do not receive BOTOX® Cosmetic if you: are allergic to any of the ingredients in BOTOX® Cosmetic (see Medication Guide for ingredients); had an allergic reaction to any other botulinum toxin product such as Myobloc® (rimabotulinumtoxinB), Dysport® (abobotulinumtoxinA), or Xeomin® (incobotulinumtoxinA); have a skin infection at the planned injection site. Tell your doctor about all your muscle or nerve conditions, such as ALS or Lou Gehrig’s disease, myasthenia gravis, or Lambert-Eaton syndrome, as you may be at increased risk of serious side effects including difficulty swallowing and…

1992 Pamela Anderson jogs down the Baywatch beach, bouncing breast implants into the bigger-is-better arena. The same year a voluntary moratorium on silicone implants is announced in the U.S., surrounding consumer fears that leaks are leading to systemic illnesses like rheumatoid arthritis. 1996 Saline-implant surgeries have increased 72 percent since 1992, but silicone isn’t totally forgotten: Two years later, researchers in the U.S., Denmark, and Sweden find no convincing evidence that silicone leaks cause disease. 2002 Plastic surgery becomes a spectator sport: Extreme Makeover brings graphic footage of breast augmentation surgeries to the small screen. And it is far from a deterrent. That year, 249,641 women get implants—that’s 147 percent more than five years earlier. 2006 Silicone is back. The FDA grants approval to two silicone implants and manufacturers get…

Let’s start with facts: In a study conducted by Dove in 2019, 80 percent of Black women surveyed reported having to change their hairstyle from its natural state to “fit in at the office.” From the postal service to the military to Fortune 500 corporations, racial discrimination has been forbidden since 1964, when President Lyndon Johnson signed the Civil Rights Act. And yet. Hair, a physical representation of our racial differences, has remained a barrier to entry—coils and kinks stretching toward that glass ceiling but too soft and springy to break through. When a Black child is sent home from school because of their cornrows or a woman is denied a promotion because of her Afro, it serves as another economic hurdle for Black people to overcome. That’s why the…

1990 THE DAWN OF PERFECTIONISM The advent of Adobe Photoshop ushers in a new frontier for image manipulation. Pascal Dangin, who founds his digital imaging company Box Studios in 1996, is perhaps the most notable practitioner of the art of retouching, helping to create a new standard of photographic perfection that transcends reality, but just slightly. “It is known that everybody does it, but they protest,” Dangin tells a reporter in 2008. Debate about the ethics of image editing looms throughout the decade, but post-production becomes the norm as nonphotographers accept digitally smoothed-over zits and sculpted arms. The first commercial camera phone in North America arrives in 2002: a Japanese Sanyo model serviced by Sprint. 2006 THE MYSPACE PIC Named for the pioneering social media platform, “from 2006 to 2009,…

Early 1990s Kevyn Aucoin’s tweezers have a very long reach. “We decided together that everyone needed to look like Carole Lombard and have really skinny eyebrows,” recalls designer Isaac Mizrahi years later in a documentary about the legendary makeup artist. “And the next thing I knew, [Aucoin] was plucking everybody’s eyebrows.” When he tweezed Cindy Crawford’s into oblivion, “it was a real crisis for Cindy’s career. And then literally overnight, somehow it just changed and she started getting more bookings. And then everyone started tweezing their eyebrows.” 1996 The Spice Girls’ “Wannabe” makes a whole lot of us wanna get eyebrow piercings when Mel B’s single hoop takes them from punk to pop. 1998 Madonna and Oprah credit their full, balanced arches to L.A. brow groomer Anastasia Soare (who, not…

Jennifer Lopez apologizes for being late. She explains that she’s been “running around with all the things.” We’re doing our interview quarantine-style, and when Lopez pixelates into view, she’s sitting in what I assume is her living room. Her hair is pulled up into a restrained topknot, her brows as angled as weaponry, her posture as formed as a ballerina’s. Hers is the kind of vast, tasteful living room (one she shares with fiancé Alex Rodriguez) that makes for nice turn-page art in Architectural Digest—like the time it was, in fact, in Architectural Digest. Behind her hangs a four-foot- (five-foot?) tall Keith Haring. “All the things” seems like a good explanation for her life. All the things pretty well sums up the commonwealth known as Jennifer Lopez. Take over 30…

* The celebration of diversity and inclusion in the beauty industry deserves at least three spots on our list. I come from a family of firsts. My mother was among the first generation of commissioned Black female officers in the U.S. Army. My sister is the first Black female oncologist in the state of Michigan. And both my father and mother were the first people in their families to go to college. So in my family, there was always a sense of relying on your ancestors and the power of education and then propelling your children forward in order to break barriers. I started modeling when I was 19, after I got to New York on a scholarship to Parsons. I always wanted to model and my mother always said…

1994 In 1975, 19-year-old, soon-to-be supermodel Iman arrived at a photo shoot and was asked if she had brought her own foundation because the makeup artist didn’t have one that would work for her skin tone. From that point forward, Iman always brought her own base (a blend she mixed herself) to set. Decades later, the experience inspired her to launch Iman Cosmetics, a groundbreaking makeup line made specifically for women of color. 2004 When Dove debuted its Campaign for Real Beauty—with advertisements celebrating women from a range of ethnic backgrounds and body sizes—it sparked conversations at dinner tables and in classrooms. Dove was also among the first major consumer brands to commit to zero digital distortion in its imagery. 2010 Often considered China’s first supermodel, Liu Wen became the first…

1 Garnier Fructis Sleek Shot In-Shower Styler “I’ve been flatironing my hair for as long as I can remember. But (perhaps we’ve mentioned this unfortunate truth to you before?) using direct heat on your hair every day can be super damaging. So now, when I skip the flatiron, my long hair looks frizzy. But after mixing my shampoo with the Sleek Shot styler and blow-drying, my hair looks smooth and shiny—no flatiron needed.” —ANGELA TRAKOSHIS, COMMERCE WRITER 2 Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask “The morning after I slathered on this dense balm before bed, I awoke to a surprise: My tiny lip lines were visibly diminished. I also use it during the day. The shea butter-rich formula is extremely thick but doesn’t have a sticky finish, so it feels lovely on…

Early 1990s Syringes are filled with collagen derived from cows to plump lines—but only for a few months (and injections require an allergy test). 2003 Fillers as we know them are born when Restylane, the first nonanimal hyaluronic acid injectable, gets FDA approval—“promising, even miraculous, new cosmetic treatments seem to debut every week,” we write at the time. 2004 “A substance called Sculptra fills smile lines for years rather than months and stimulates the growth of new collagen in the skin,” reports Allure. It is made of polyL-lactic acid (a powdered version of dissolvable sutures). 2007 Beauty is pain, they say…. but dermal fillers don’t hurt as much now that lidocaine starts getting mixed into them. 2011 The softest hyaluronic acid filler yet, Belotero Balance, gains FDA approval. Its unique…

1990s Whole Foods expands beyond Austin, and its beauty aisles let us pick up aluminum-free deodorant rocks and lavender-sprig-studded soaps along with our organic kale. 1991 Two decades before clean beauty dominates the lexicon, Burt’s Bees’ now-iconic beeswax lip balm launches at drugstores. 2008 Gwyneth Paltrow presses send on a little newsletter featuring a great banana-nut muffin recipe and Goop soon drives a “clean living” rebrand from crunchy to cool. 2010 Clean beauty retailers begin to command our attention—and beauty routines. The Detox Market’s pop-up shop in Venice, California, becomes three more locations, and in the next five years Follain and Credo open boutiques around the country. (Because there’s no regulated or agreed-upon definition of “clean,” each retailer must decide which ingredients it will reject; Credo’s “Dirty List” is over…

Melchiorra Melchiorra Gentile, who lived with her four sisters and widowed mother in a flat expanse of East Cleveland, ironically known as Mount Pleasant, went shopping one afternoon in 1950. For the occasion, she wore a red coat trimmed in fur. The Gentiles lived on the fringes of poverty, but when it was time to go shopping, they donned hats and gloves and high heels—the cosplay of socialites. A trip to downtown Cleveland was more about the excitement of the trip itself than the goods acquired. The streetcar system heaved with passengers, pulsing around the city, delivering them to offices and monuments and hundreds of shops: Halle Bros., Taylor’s, Bond’s. Higbee’s department store had bronze-tiled ceilings and glorious colonnades. A downtown mall was walled by magnificent public buildings in the…

Early 1990s SPF 30 becomes available (before that, your main options were SPF 15 or lower). 1998 World, meet Britney Spears. The video for “…Baby One More Time” debuts, ushering in a new bronze era. The public health implications are real: Indoor tanning causes skin cancer, but a whole lot of teens partake before prom. 2006 The FDA approves Mexoryl SX, an ingredient that blocks UVB and UVA rays and doesn’t break down in sunlight the way other chemical sunscreens can. L’Oréal Paris, which owns the formula’s patent, starts selling it in La Roche-Posay Anthélios SX in the U.S., and beauty insiders no longer have to smuggle the cult-y lotion from overseas vacations. 2009 Tan culture jumps the shark on Jersey Shore (GTL y’all), just as every step of our…

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT, ALLURE Beauty Tip: “Pop sheet masks in the fridge before applying for soothing, cool relief. Trust me, it will feel amazing on the skin.” Mantra: “Hydrated hair is healthy hair. Keeping my curls moisturized is major for me.” OUR HIGHEST-VALUE BOX! OVER $250 VALUE* FOR ONLY $23 ALLURE.COM/BOX Includes retail value of new member gift. New members will receive a fragrance from Viktor & Rolf’s Flowerbomb collection; Amorepacific Treatment Cleansing Foam or Vintage Single Extract Essence. On sale February 1-28, 2021. All while supplies last.…

1993 Sleeves of temporary tattoos on Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway helped inspire one of the ’90s’ most controversial tattoo trends: so-called tribal tattoos that are permanent records of cultural appropriation. 1997 “It’s illegal to get a tattoo? I mean, come on,” one local tells The New York Times. Then, finally, the city’s nearly 40-year tattoo ban (blame a 1961 hepatitis B outbreak) is lifted. 1999 Cher gets a laser procedure to remove all of her 16 tattoos. “I had my first tattoo at 27, and at that time it was a statement,” she says. “Now, just about everyone has one, and it’s boring.” Early 2000s Fairies and butterflies grace the lower backs of Gen X, framed by low-rise jeans and midriff-baring tops. 2005 The drama! Five tattoo artists open shop…

Every single thing we know about makeup today we owe to the art of drag. For decades, the makeup artistry vanguard toiled away on the fringes of the mainstream, usually late after sunset, in the dressing room of a bar you wouldn’t walk into by accident. Until 2009, when RuPaul’s Drag Race turned the feminine performance into…a reality competition The show, now in its 13th year and umpteenth season, put its performers on the world stage, inspiring a new generation of queens. The queen of queens: Chicago-based Shea Couleé, who snatched her own crown last year. “I love manipulating [my] face,” Couleé tells Allure. Lucky for us, she also loves to share.…

1992 PUBLICITY PHOTO FROM IN LIVING COLOR “This is my first publicity shoot for the Fly Girls on In Living Color. I remember thinking that the clothes were so cool. I felt like I had arrived, to be honest. My hair was my natural, curly hair. ” 1997 ANACONDA PREMIERE, LOS ANGELES “I was kind of new to premieres. I was just finding myself, my own style. I loved that dress. I remember it was way cut-down low. Little did I know how low I would go later in my career! I had to sew it up.” 2000 BAMBOOZLED PREMIERE, NEW YORK CITY “It was a Gucci jacket. I was very into Gucci at the time. I still am. And it just became my signature look, very monochromatic, basic, sexy.…

In the ’80s, the only things more audacious than the shoulder pads were the makeup looks—lipstick (so red!), eye shadow (so blue!), foundation (so thick!). Then makeup artist Bobbi Brown came along, launching her first products in 1991. They were 10 understated lipsticks, each a mini revolution of subdued red or pink or brown. Our collective eye shifted: Makeup could enhance, not mask. The lineup was anchored by the radically simple shade, Brown (above). It is still one of the greatest, most universally flattering lip colors in history. The “natural look” is defined a little differently today, and Brown (the woman, not the lipstick) is on to her next act: Jones Road, a makeup line that includes shimmering liquid shadows and multi-use balms. (Brown left her namesake brand in 2016.)…

Depending on where you are, I’m already 30. Technically, I turn 30 on September 23, but in Korea I’m actually already 301. When I was younger, I thought I would be someone’s husband or a father by now. Thirty years old seemed so grown-up. My parents got married when they were 28. I’m already late. I can’t even imagine that now. I didn’t think I’d still be a singer at 30, actually. When I looked at other artists I noticed by 30 most of their careers would start to dwindle. I didn’t think I would still be doing this so actively. But, you know, I still feel like I’m 18 years old. Nothing has changed. When I was younger, I was a quiet, observant type, always busy watching other people’s…

Arguably, the biggest mistake I made during my senior year in high school was sneaking Mr. Baron’s Jaguar XJ6 out of the garage so that Natalia and I could hit South Beach with our newly acquired fake IDs. The second-biggest mistake: cutting off all my hair to get in character for the adventure. You see, Miami in the mid-’90s was a city on the verge of supercoolness. There were Cosmos and inside-out California rolls, Camel Special Lights to consume, and nightclubs to sneak into. And if you were an irresponsible, deceitful, ever-so-slightly entitled teen with the moxie to steal your best friend’s dad’s car to go out for sushi on Ocean Drive in the hopes of glimpsing Stephen Dorff or Matt Dillon, you were going to do it in peak…

1990 Ulta Beauty opens its first brick-and-mortar store in Lombard, Illinois, and for the first time high-end, mass-market, and salon products live under their own roof. 1998 Almost 30 years after its grand opening in Paris, Sephora lands in the U.S. and sets down roots in New York City. 2005 Amazon Prime, referred to as “all-you-can-eat express shipping” by founder Jeff Bezos, begins to alter our expectations for how long we have to wait for shampoo to arrive at our door. 2008 Rodan + Fields relaunches with Independent Consultants (aka 21st-century Avon Ladies). Top salespeople are known for their white Lexuses and Facebook promo tactics. 2012 Soko Glam, among America’s first major K-beauty retailers, fuels the biggest skincare revolutions we’ve seen in recent years. Hello, sheet masks and jelly cleansers.…

UNDER OUR NOSES: In April 1998, Allure extolled the benefits of the fragrance sample. “The only way a person is going to buy is if they try,” said one Chanel executive. That reality hasn’t changed—but the MO is very different. Then: aggressive in-store spritzers and towelettes soaked in Lancôme Trésor. Now: discovery sets delivered directly to your door. Each is filled with about five sample-size scents that are more substantial than typical single-spray testers (and some companies count the price toward the purchase of a full-size bottle). MAKING THE LIST: In a June 1999 story, Allure suggested browsing online before going to stores to make a shopping list and avoid falling prey to the in-person pitch. Today, of course, you can skip the pen-and-paper list—and also save some cash. Beauty…

“The history of skin care may one day be divided into its own epochs: B.B. (Before Botox) and A.B. (After Botox).” Truer words have never been written—in the beauty realm, at least. That sentence, published in December 2007, is one of 331 times that we at Allure have critiqued, exalted, and investigated Botox since the FDA green-lit it for vaporizing wrinkles in April 2002. Botox is the brand name of the first neurotoxin injectable and those five letters are beauty’s Google or Kleenex or Frisbee. There may now be other neurotoxins that smooth away lines by blocking the nerve impulses that cause muscle activity, but Botox is the name that’s etched into our minds, imaginations, and cultural consciousness. Here, our nine favorite moments in Allure’s reporting on exogenous chemical neurological…

*We’re giving four spaces on our list to the four most beauty-revolutionizing (so far) social networks: MySpace, YouTube, Instagram, and TikTok. About a century ago, Egon Schiele—Expressionist artist of the human form, patron saint of a “send nudes” aesthetic—considered why he was so drawn to painting self-portraits. “I have it in me to record,” he noted. “So I am constantly creating more, seemingly endless new works out of myself…. I am so rich that I must give myself away.” With the richness of the blessed hours that we alone have with our faces, isn’t it actually selfish not to spend time capturing them for posterity, for our friends, lovers, enemies, our mothers? Isn’t it selfish not to share? Allow me to put forward a confident but incalculable premise: More self-portraits…

You know how they look even if you’ve never watched an episode of their show or seen their Instagram feeds. You’ve seen their aesthetic details replicated on innumerable faces around the world: the stenciled, arched brow; the baked-powder contour; the inner glow that comes from carefully charted concealer; the gradient of the neutral lip pencil, overdrawn just so, topped off with a sheer brown gloss. For most of the past decade, makeup artists have been inundated with requests for these effects, and more. In the beauty school textbooks of the future, the 2010s will be accompanied by the faces of the Kardashian-Jenner clan, who have more than once been called “America’s royal family”—which would be apt if magazines spent as much time covering the body shapes of the Windsors as…