Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2021 i Allure

LAUREN BROWN No matter the story, Allure’s senior visuals editor gets the shot—or, more precisely, makes sure the shot gets got, whether she’s on set in New York or Zoom-ing into a cover shoot in Korea. What’s the secret to flawlessly planning and executing an international photo shoot from afar? Pre-pro! Which just means pre-production. Talking through every detail of production and planning out the shots and glam looks is key. Any challenges? When the Wi-Fi is spotty or the connection gets rough, it can be tough. [And] adjusting to Korea’s time zone was tricky, to say the least. We were up until the sun rose on the CL shoot (page 88). Anything beauty-related you can’t travel without? A decent shower cap! I take mine [from home] with me. DANIELLEK WATENG…

As a perennial purveyor of florals, British brand Erdem has always traded in romance. But what use is romance (or a dress that costs three Gs) when certain destruction looms on the horizon? Erdem’s spring collection was inspired by The Volcano Lover, a romance novel set beneath the roiling peak of Mount Vesuvius—passion underscored and refracted by apocalypse. Makeup artist Jane Richardson mimicked “the otherworldly flush” of main character Emma Hamilton by blending layers of NARS Orgasm Liquid Blush and Exhibit A powder blush “across and down over the cheeks.” Hairstylist Anthony Turner engineered an updo that was elegant but unfussed: Hair was diffused, then dry shampooed, then haphazardly pinned and headbanded—ribbon was wrapped around several times and tied in a bow at the nape of the neck—like a damsel…

Remember back in 2016, when we all said we were moving to Canada? Yeah, we don’t want to mentally return there either. But if you had moved, you might have been inspired to start your own beauty brand—our upstairs neighbor has been experiencing something of a beauty boom. “When I think about the beauty brands coming out of Canada, I immediately think about the physical vastness of the country and the incredible, and often immediate, access to the great outdoors,” says Kathy Chi Thurber, president of Saje Natural Wellness, an essential oil-driven brand founded in Vancouver in 1992. Two new brands from that British Columbia city are reflections of its rocky coastlines and forests: One is Mérv, a line of botanical face oils handcrafted in the province; the other is…

When is a perfume not a perfume? When it’s a portal, perhaps. Some of our favorite scents attempt to recreate the specific (and, often, complicated) fragrance compositions of a single location in time. Hermès bottles a certain Parisian rooftop garden’s magnolias and apple trees. Ever been to Rodrigues Island off the coast of Africa? Neither have we. But when the wind rolls in off the Indian Ocean, swelling with notes of lemon (from local farms) and vanilla (from nearby Madagascar), it smells divine, and we know it.…

After 12 years in New York City, makeup artist Yuui Vision returned to her hometown of Tokyo wearing lemon-yellow and sky-blue shadow, buzzed eyebrows, and electric-pink blush. On her face, and her clients’, she’d developed a penchant for dreamy punk creations (faces covered in chunky glitter; eyes adorned with swirls of multicolored liner) and unusual materials (friendship bracelets for eye shadow; figurines affixed to the cheeks). It made her a head-turner—and a favorite makeup artist of Dior Japan, Kiko Mizuhara, and Stella McCartney, who have all tapped her for ad campaigns. “I [always] wanted to live in the full fantasy world of beauty,” she says. “Learning how to put on makeup felt like real magic.” Working a bit of alchemy requires pigmented products, so Vision’s kit is bursting with innovative,…

As you probably observed during the throes of the pandemic last spring, hair doesn’t stop growing just because there’s nowhere to go to get it cut. And since there’s nothing worse than pushing overgrown bangs out of your face as you, say, measure the depth of an ice cap, scientists and government workers at McMurdo Station in Antarctica built the world’s southernmost salon. Before you dial up your congressperson: Your tax dollars were not spent on gold-plated shampoo bowls. This salon is a modest, one-room, two-chair operation staffed by a single hairstylist. For five seasons (that’s how staffers measure time at the station), that hairstylist has been Alicia Sutherland, who was working in Portland, Oregon, when a client at her salon mentioned that her wife was currently working in Antarctica.…

Once upon a time, Allure ran advice columns by our favorite beauty pros. In celebration of our 30th anniversary, we’re bringing back the tradition, but this time the beauty expert is—us! (We’ve learned a lot over the years.) This is an excellent question and one I’ve been asking myself a lot recently. More and more beauty companies are choosing to address their environmental… Reader, I am so sorry. I can’t continue with this cool and breezy intro. The truth is I am terrified of the climate crisis. Climate anxiety is top of mind at all times, burning like wildfire, booming like thunder, beating against my brain like angry waves against feeble cliffs. This is a terrible way to live and I wouldn’t wish it upon my worst enemy, but the…

“I mist my entire chest with Dior Sauvage [1]. When I jump on the rings in the morning, the aroma comes alive. I feel really energized [after using] The Body Shop Exfoliating Bath Gloves [6]. Unlike [exfoliating] brushes, this feels good. And I think taking care of yourself should feel good.” “I smile a ton. I can’t help myself. [So] my teeth matter a lot. When I stumbled upon Sensodyne [2], I fell in love. It tastes good in your mouth.” “The cornerstone for looking and feeling your best is to embrace yourself. You are number one in your life. You can emulate, love, and admire [others], but you’re still the first person in your life. You want to celebrate yourself.” “The eyes mirror our soul. They transcend so much.…

HAIR SALON TasalaHQ, 1, Muritala Mohammed Drive Former Bank Road, I koyi, Lagos “They really look after natural hair,” Savage says. “Even if you wear wigs or weaves all the time, she conditions really well so that your natural hair is growing underneath.” SPA TREATMENT B Natural Medical Spa, 11 Oduduwa Way, GRA, Ikeja, Lagos Savage isn’t a frequent spa-goer, but she does love getting the occasional hammam treatment (a Middle Eastern-based practice that generally includes a skin- and mood-transforming combination of a steam bath, full-body exfoliation, and light massage). This is her favorite spot to get a hammam in Lagos and she adds, “When I’m in London, I go to Harrods.” HOLY GRAIL PRODUCT R&R Luxury Liquid Black Soap Made from shea butter and oils, this soap from Nigerian-born…

HOUSE OF TARA INTERNATIONAL has been committed to selling everything you need for a full face beat—including complexion products specifically for women of color—since its founding in 1998. In 2004, founder Tara Fela-Durotoye established the brand’s first makeup school in Nigeria. There are now nine locations throughout the country. The minimalist aesthetic may draw you in, but it’s the powerhouse ingredients in HOUSE OF COCO SKINCARE’s formulas that will keep your attention. The brand is focused on treating acne and hyperpigmentation. Founder Chidiogo Sharon Mbelede was inspired to create solutions after dealing with both herself. Olori is a Yoruba word that Toyin Odulate often heard while growing up. “Olori is a prefix commonly used in southwestern Nigeria to refer to a king’s wife, mother, or daughter. It was also a…

For decades, ad campaigns, editorials, and runways paid homage to a very particular type of Brazilian woman: the Supermodel. There were Alessandra, Gisele, and Adriana. Isabeli, Cintia, and Izabel. They had many similarities—towering legs, toned abs, arresting (often light) eyes, a waterfall of “beachy waves.” Today, a new guard of Brazilian women with beauty influence has refreshingly less in common. Meet Magá, Nathalie, Letticia, Daniele, and Roberta. MAGÁ MOURA Moura, an influencer from Bahia, will wear bubblegum-pink braids laced with beads one day, blue lipstick and green locs the next. She’ll sport every color a pixie stick comes in, all at once (her hair, her Nikes, her nails). She’s as disarmingly warm as she is effortlessly cool (she taught herself English by listening to Jay-Z and Eminem). But she wasn’t…

South Korea might be one of the most beautiful places in the world. Few other nations have contributed as much to the global beauty economy as the Land of the Morning Calm, where seas of mist drift between mountains and cherry blossoms dance through Seoul. Korea’s fastidious aesthetic-maintenance standards have given way to a cosmetic culture, one that can be manufactured and exported abroad. Korean brands like Laneige (“the snow,” in French) have succeeded by scrambling the DNA of what a beauty product can be. Lip balm is one thing; a Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask, formulated specifically for nighttime, at once densely hydrating (with hyaluronic acid and shea butter) and lightly exfoliating (with fruit extracts), is an entirely different thing. And we’ll take three, thank you. We first told you…

TIWA IAMISIGO dress. To create a similar look: Intensify Me! Liquid Liner in Intense Black, TruBlend Super Stunner Face Highlighter in Gilded Glory, Exhibitionist Demi Matte Lipstick in Just Sayin, and Exhibitionist Lip Liner in Garnet Red by CoverGirl. Photographed by Lakin Ogunbanwo. Fashion stylist: KK Obi. Assistant stylist: Charles Ndiomu. Hair: Bernard Smiless. Makeup: Ruth Akele. Set design: Anti Design. Production: Funmbi Ogunbanwo. Location: Clear Essence California Spa & Wellness Resort in Lagos, Nigeria. Details, see allure.com/credits. CL Andre Kim dress. Photographed by Peter Ash Lee. Fashion stylist: Ye Young Kim. Hair: Gabe Sin. Makeup: Ji Won Moon. Manicure: Eun Kyung Park. Set design: Hyea Won Yoo. Production: Visual Park. Details, see allure.com/credits. ANITTA To create a similar look: Hypnôse 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Rose Fusion, Ombre Hypnôse Style…

Two words: face yoga. Okay, three more: Hear us out. There is actually a study (in JAMA Dermatology—highly legit) which suggests that sticking to a facial exercise program for 20 weeks can change facial appearance. “Looking refreshed or well-rested, these benefits come from improved circulation you get with facial exercises, including face yoga. It can strengthen muscle groups that would otherwise weaken with age, and you may even hold your face in a more positive way over time,” says dermatologist Doris Day. She’s so convinced she does facial exercises daily herself: “I’ve seen a nice lifting effect, softening of frown lines, and an improved feeling of well-being.” Here, an off-the-mat yoga routine for your face by Ginger Dorsey (who studied yoga and now creates facial yoga exercises for Origins). Prep your…

In the past year, it has become more apparent that Americans with melanin-rich skin are treated differently. This is evident in the criminal justice system—and in the dermatologist’s office. To amplify—and change—this disparity, Allure has launched The Melanin Edit, an initiative devoted to serving Black and brown skin. Here, you will find answers to questions like: What should I do about hyperpigmentation? Where can I find a dermatologist that specializes in skin of color? And, of course, we’ll discuss the intangible truths, like colorism, that come with navigating the world with more melanin. All this can be found on allure.com/the-melaninedit. And if there’s one thing we can’t say enough: You need sunscreen, sis! Melanin is the pigment in our skin that embues it with rich color and protects us. “Melanin…

Anna Petrenko @ANNA.NAILS.BERLIN BERLIN Though moody, chipped manicures are trendy in Berlin, architect-turned-nail-artist Petrenko focuses on clean, colorful designs, like vibrant mosaics, intricate florals, and cheery portraitures. (The smiling face above is inspired by Spanish illustrator Natalia Vico’s vivid work.) “We enjoy good sun here in Berlin, especially after a long, gloomy winter, and sparkly nails are what make spring even more fun,” says Petrenko. She is often inspired by Berlin’s everchanging foliage and the city’s poster-plastered façades. The walls have “amazing graphic patterns with torn edges,” says Petrenko. “These layers of paper mixed with graffiti tags, for me, are a perfect representation of Berlin style.” Samantha Herrera @NAAILARTBAR MEXICO CITY Mercado de San Juan, a food market selling flautas and catch-of-the-day fish, is just down the street from Herrera’s…

I grew up in Bangkok surrounded by color: yellow marigolds, purple lotuses, and green peacocks nearly as common as pigeons. My grandmother would lay out a spectrum of pink Thai silks, a lucky color to wear on Tuesdays, and say, “Which should I wear?” It’s how I choose lipstick today—take out all the fuchsias, pick the right one—and I still think of her. The makeup in this story uses colors that are significant to Thailand—its flowers, its animals—but it also has a message: No matter your skin tone, embrace it. Wear these beautiful, bright colors. If you’re not proud of your skin tone, you’re not comfortable wearing colors. I wasn’t too proud of my own skin tone growing up. I used to mix lime and turmeric to try to make…

IT’S A MARATHON, NOT A SPRINT “You don’t have to be superstrong to become an astronaut,” says Staci Latham, an athletic trainer with the Astronaut Strength & Conditioning and Rehabilitation (ASCR) Program at NASA. Instead, she says, you need to be willing to put in the work, day in and day out, during at least a year of preflight cardio and resistance training. “Consistency trumps intensity every time,” says Latham. For Earth dwellers, that means it’s better to do a virtual dance-cardio class three times a week for 20 minutes than to run five miles once a month. The same principle applies when an astronaut is onboard: Most exercise for about two and a half hours a day, six days a week. Taking time to move nearly every day helps…

I was 14, and I was driving with my mom. I remember this car ride so vividly: We were driving and I asked her, “Can I wear mascara?” And she was like, “What? I don’t know how I feel about you wearing makeup at this age.” When I got to 16, I started experimenting with the Dream Matte Mousse Foundation from Maybelline. I knew nothing about [foundation] at the time, so I just put on the darkest shade and, obviously, they never got the complexions right back then. It was just so funny how pasty I looked, but I thought, Yeah, this with some pink lip gloss. This is going to work. It didn’t work at all. I remember, in 2015, when I came to New York. From Sephora down…

Darian Harvin: How did your career lead you to working with patients who are suffering from the side effects of skin-whitening products? Anita Benson: When I started my residency program in internal medicine [in Delta State, Nigeria], there was this young woman who was admitted [with] a kidney injury. You could see that she had been badly bleached, so it was obvious that she had been whitening for a while. Her kidneys had totally shut down. [Bleaching creams can contain mercury, which is known to cause kidney damage, according to the World Health Organization, or hydroquinone, another popular yet controversial lightening ingredient.] I struck up a conversation with her and she was talking about how she started bleaching because of a guy she liked when she was in high school,…

In the history of Brazilian exports, there may be no truer representation of the nation’s flavor than Anitta. She is not a supermodel, not a movie star, not a muse walking the sands of Ipanema. She is a girl from the favelas, who learned to sing in church, took courses in business administration, and rose to global fame on a wave of grit, determination, and some serious bass-thumping, ass-bumping music. Before Anitta appears for an interview I already know she is likely to be wearing a strapless ruched top and beachy, sun-kissed hair and that her backdrop will be, as the kids say, drippy. Because, like the other 52.1 million Instagram followers who watch her every move, I just saw the IG Story of Anitta, along with her dad and…

SALLVE Cofounded by influencer and TV personality Julia Petit, Sallve’s skin care is all candy colors outside and nourishing ingredients inside. Formulas combine actives to solve problems raised by the brand’s digital community: blackheads, dryness, hangover skin (there’s a mask for that). The fan favorite Hydrating Antioxidant is a serum-gel with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and caffeine. BRUNA TAVARES After many years as a fashion and beauty journalist, Bruna Tavares created a makeup line that understands—and harnesses—the power of the perfect neutral lip color and a richly pigmented shadow. The BT Velvet Liquid Eyeshadow is a favorite of our cover star Anitta. It comes in a mouthwatering—and unexpected—color range, including blackberry, cherry, and tangerine. HELA BEAUTY Entrepreneur (clothes, eyewear) Helena Bordon was having trouble with her sensitive skin so she…

Three years ago, we had the grand idea to create what we called our Out of Office issue. The entire staff would—wait for it—work remotely for the month-plus that it took to produce the issue. The concept was that the team would be dispatched to far-flung corners of the world to report on beauty in other countries. We’d discover sunscreen from Bondi Beach, explore dry-skin secrets near the South Pole, and perhaps forge an editor-exchange program of sorts with our sibling brand, Allure Korea. No one would set foot in our Manhattan offices for several weeks. I mentioned the outlandish project to our then CEO and braced myself for future HR interference. He paused and said, “That’s a great idea. Maybe that’s how we’ll all be working soon.” A few…

I’m a 10-step skincare maximalist, but skinimalism is trending and Augustinus Bader is the Heathers of the beauty world—an instant cult hit. So I put my serums in a drawer and tried this (get ready for a long list…) smoothing, brightening, hydrating, soothing cream. (It’s got amino acids, vitamins, squalane, and hyaluronic acid.) The formula is dense and the price point is steep ($265 for 50 ml), but a little goes a long way. One pump in the morning and another each evening has made my skin gleam without the white cast other rich creams tend to leave on my olive complexion. I don’t use it under foundation (it’s a bit too heavy), but I do use it religiously at night for calming my dry, irritated skin. The May Allure…

*The Allure Beauty Box brings our editors’ favorite beauty products to your door every month (a $100+ value for $23 a month; allure.com/beautyreporter). Inside the May box, you’ll find Wander Beauty Sight C-er Vitamin C Concentrate and more.…

Achieving a great blowout that lasts for days is a lot like gambling: It requires some skill and a whole lot of luck. That’s why Kevin Murphy’s Blow Dry line caught our attention. It includes four spray-on stylers (Bounce, Lift, Thicken, and Smooth), each of which claim to create enduring results—capable even of withstanding washes. Yes, you read that right. Use these stylers, blow-dry, shampoo again a couple of days later, and still get a smooth (or bouncy or full) outcome—without any additional product. We put it to the test on wavy hair: “I styled my hair with Smooth and the sleek results were impressive. But what really amazed me was the next time I blew out my hair,” says beauty editor Paige Stables. “Again, it dried smooth, shiny, and…

A bouquet of lavender and a basket of freshly picked basil—no, these aren’t my favorite finds from a trip to the farmer’s market. They’re the two star ingredients that infuse the ultra-nourishing hair-care line Pantene Essential Oils Lavender Oil & Basil, which is free from any synthetic fragrances, silicones, parabens, dyes, or mineral oil. It’s only the good stuff. Now let’s talk about how it works. My fragile hair is fine, highlighted, and prone to breakage, so it’s been a balancing act for me to find products moisturizing enough to keep my strands soft and shiny without feeling weighed down. A small change to my routine—the addition of a strengthening shampoo and conditioner with supercharged ingredients—has made a big difference. Pantene Essential Oils Lavender Oil & Basil is available at…

“Mumbai, [where I live], was in lockdown through July. I started working in August; I had movie projects to complete. My regular makeup style is less is more. I’m known for my skin work, which is very light, [but] I love color. I think my signature is a red lip and winged liner. That’s a classic wedding look in India. [For this chart] I considered the bridal trends for 2021. It’s no longer about the liner and red lip. The looks are very, very soft, with shades of rose gold and bronze. And [it’s] very eye-specific because of mask-wearing. We have a lot of humidity in India, so if you just use powder eye shadow, it has the tendency to disappear from your skin very quickly. I’ve realized layering creams,…

1 PULL IT BACK It’s what hairstylist David Lopez calls a “forever look”: a tight ponytail that “lines up with your cheekbones and crown.” Keep in mind that if you wear your hair down you may be asked to expose your ears for the photo. (The United States prefers to see them.) Actually, if you want to get into it, it’s not technically against the rules to cover them. But a taut updo is, to Lopez’s point, universally flattering and solves this awkward problem before it begins. 2 BRING FACE Do your makeup at home and do so according to these guidelines from Mai Quynh, a makeup artist known for creating photogenic faces: “Make sure your complexion is flawless, matte, and sculpted. Sometimes the light from the flash can blow…

Paris smells: The cloying scent of garbage cooking on an ancient street, clouds of nicotine exhaled from international lungs, carbon dioxide bubbles rising off the surface of Coke Zero and bursting in my nose. In the black marble lobby of the Hôtel de Berri, nestled in the fashionable 8th arrondissement, the scent of butter drifting off a pile of mini croissants takes me by the collar and yanks me toward the hot butter of my youth, and it’s all very Proustian because, after all, I am in Paris. Parisian sights: a magnificent iron tower that glitters every night, gardens built for kings, streets that could exist only in paintings, and the most beautiful candle stores I will ever see…as soon as everybody is in the lobby and ready for the…

Tiwa Savage’s electricity went out three times during our video call. “Sorry about the power breakup,” she apologizes each time. I totally understand as we’re both connecting from West Africa: Savage in Lagos, Nigeria, where she’s been since the pandemic began; me in Accra, Ghana, where I’ve been for the past two months to be with family. Electricity going out is a regular occurrence in major African cities such as ours. Despite the steady interruptions, Savage’s energy never flags. Our meeting is serendipitous as Savage’s music has actually been a sounding guide, a hymnal of sorts, that subconsciously encouraged me to move across the Atlantic, from New York to the motherland. Last year, I deeply connected to her music because of my desire to get back to my roots. I…

“I’m very experimental with my style,” says Nigerian model and artist Uche Uba. “Makeup for me is, to an extent, an act of defiance. You cannot tell me what I can or cannot do to my face.” In Nigeria, significant parts of queer existence—including sex between people of the same gender, advocating for queer rights, and even associating with queer people—can be criminalized. If prosecuted and found guilty, people can be sentenced up to 14 years in prison and, under Sharia law in northern Nigeria, it can result in death by stoning. In response, some members of the Nigerian queer community have taken to using experimental beauty looks as a way to show resistance. “Wearing makeup for me is largely showing and expressing who I am as a person,” says…

HAIR COLOR Rey Moreira, Salão 1838 Rua Estados Unidos 1838, São Paulo “I like my color to look very natural, so I only go to Rey, nobody else. It could be, like, five months before I can get to my next appointment and I’d still wait to go to Rey.” EXTENSIONS Flávio Priscott, Rua Maria Luiza Pitanga 45, Rio de Janeiro “What Flavio does with extensions is unbelievable. He’s based in Rio but he travels, so clients book him to go to Europe, Turkey, everywhere. He puts the hair at the hairline, so you cannot see it. You can go to the beach, wear it messy, straighten your hair, and it always looks perfect.” PLASTIC SURGERY Dr. Ana Helena Patrus at Clínica Santé, Rua Groenlândia 1759, São Paulo “She is…

The night belongs to Lee Chae-rin. When she finishes working, hours after sunset, she puts her hoodie on and her earbuds in and begins her nightly drift. There’s a path nearby that winds up and down Seoul’s central peak of Namsan; from the top, you can see the city’s toniest neighborhoods sparkle all the way to the horizon. Or so Chaerin tells me. “That’s Gangnam, from ‘Gangnam Style,’” she says, gesturing into the distance, but the glamorous black of her jacket sleeve and the absolute lack of sunlight work in tandem to make it difficult if not impossible to see anything via our video chat, despite my best attempts. You have to imagine that it’s breathtaking, and then you have to imagine Chae-rin gazing over it all, listening to demos…