Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2022 i Allure

THE WORLD KNOWS CHRIS Appleton as hairstylist to superstars like Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez. But 17-year-old Kitty-Blu just knows him as Dad—and soon, perhaps, as a colleague. The makeup artist-in-training recently moved from England to Los Angeles to live with her dad while honing her craft. Consider this a window into their dining room-table talk. CHRIS: When you were young, I used to practice on you. You’d have these high-fashion looks. At the age of six, you had blue extensions in. There’s a picture of you on the [playground] and you have a ponytail longer than Ariana [Grande]’s. Before I did Ariana’s hair like that, I did yours! KITTY-BLU: I was always that girl with my hair done and a full face of makeup. Because of social media, everyone…

WRAP STAR Kaleidoscopic silk scarves “are a great way to showcase your personality through your hairstyle,” says hairstylist Lacy Redway. They’re also an excellent way to disguise day-three hair. “To secure the scarf, cross two pins behind your ears where they are not very visible,” says Redway. LOUD MOUTH Find the brightest lipstick you can—pink, coral, purple. Okay, good. Now make it even more over-the-top: “Knock out underlying [lip] tones with concealer. This amplifies the brightness while creating a clean canvas for the color to pop,” says makeup artist Daniel Martin. Keep the rest of your makeup pretty bare—but don’t hesitate to bedazzle your earlobes. EYE IMPACT Electric orange and blue eye shadows are even more arresting when drawn in interesting shapes—like the disjointed wings we saw at Chloé and…

Join Allure as we explore the inextricable link between science and beauty — and don’t be surprised if you discover your next favorite serum, hair mask, or scalp treatment along the way. If you’ve always wondered what a wrinkle actually is and how retinol can make it go away, or why your hair is curly and which polymers will give it the most spring, come get nerdy with us! LISTEN & SUBSCRIBE TO THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY WHEREVER YOU GET YOUR PODCASTS THIS PODCAST MADE POSSIBLE BY…

“Call Jasmina Aganovic.” That is what I heard again and again when I asked around about biotech beauty. “She is the leader in this space,” cosmetic chemist Jen Novakovich tells me firmly. Aganovic, who is one of the preeminent researchers in a field that’s growing faster than bacteria replicate in a Petri dish (that’s just a little biotech humor for ya), always had big dreams: “When I was really little, I wanted to be a mermaid,” she says. Deep-sea imaginings aside, she got an MIT degree in chemical and biological engineering, which led to stints at data-driven beauty brands such as Living Proof and Mother Dirt. After that, Aganovic spent two years in a prestigious entrepreneur-in-residence program at leading biotechnology firm Gingko Bioworks. There she realized an even wilder dream:…

SAM VISSER’S VOICE PICKS UP as he talks about Allure images of the 1990s: “The [shoots] that Polly Mellen [styled], with [makeup by] François Nars and Kevyn Aucoin, they highlighted strong beauty, month after month. I was dazzled by them. The techniques were completely different [then]—very balanced, because when you’re shooting on film even a little bit of makeup would show up.” But wait, I interject: “Were you even alive in the ’90s?” Says Visser, “For one month! It was my portal in.” This November 1999 baby grew up on a beauty diet of Allure back issues (“from my friends’ moms”) and early YouTube makeup tutorials, and he’s digested them into an analog aesthetic for a digital generation. Visser’s every makeup move is careful and precise but never stuffy. The…

“MY FIVE O’CLOCK TOUCH-UP IS VERY SIMPLE: A CREAM HIGHLIGHTER AND GLOSS.”…

“I’ve always loved lipstick, since the day I saw my mom applying red lipstick,” says Rihanna. “It was my favorite from the very, very beginning.” This memory inspired The MVP, a fiery shade in her new collection of semimatte Fenty Beauty Icon Refillable Lipsticks. “I wanted to create that perfect shade of red that works with every skin tone, and I love it,” says Rihanna. She’s not alone: “I’m not one to grab a red lipstick,” says one Allure editor. “But, dang! It’s Monday morning, and it’s already on.” Two additional reds and seven neutrals (in taupes and mauves) round out the vanilla-peach scented palette. It’s debatable whether the creamy texture (thanks to hyaluronic acid and vitamin E) or the unique bullet (shaped like RiRi’s Cupid’s bow) is what allows…

I WAS BORN IN TUBA CITY, Arizona. My mom was going to college at Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff, so we were there for a lot of my baby years. After that, we went to Mongolia where my grandparents were. We ended up living there for two years. I eventually became fluent in Mongolian, but before that my mom would put the fashion channel on TV because there were no words, just runway shows. I would sit there in front of the TV, mesmerized. I became so in love with modeling. I was five when we went back to America. We took the Trans-Siberian Railway through Europe and there are photos of me posing in front of Dior and Louis Vuitton. We went back to Arizona so my mom could…

“I ALWAYS CALL THEM MY STREET husbands, my kings and queens,” says Shirley Raines of her beloved clients. The 54-year-old is FaceTiming me bright and early, before she heads downtown, wearing a Malcolm X sweatshirt, fuchsia hair, and eyebrow-skimming lashes. “I feel we’re married, for better, for worse.” Raines’s nonprofit, Beauty 2 the Streetz, has always been about family, both blood and chosen. Raised in Compton, Raines, a self-taught makeup artist and hairstylist (“hood stylist!” she corrects me), began her organization six years ago. “I was dealing with grief and trauma [from the loss of her son], and I started a journey of trying to find purpose for my pain,” she says. Around 2016, she volunteered for a nonprofit that fed tenants of Central City East, a Los Angeles neighborhood…

HUESTICK Ninety-eight percent of our community said that hyperpigmentation and dark circles were their top two concerns. This stick addresses both.” HUEGUARD “Like most people of color, I grew up having to use sunscreens that would leave a white cast on my skin. I have always wanted to create sunscreen so we could confidently enjoy the sun while also protecting our skin—without looking ashy.” SUPERHUE People were yearning for a longterm solution for hyperpigmentation. [This serum stick] has niacinamide and bakuchiol to gently help fade dark spots.”…

Like a Charm Lipstick is the key to our hearts—and now, our homes. The refillable lipsticks from Herrera Beauty by Carolina Herrera double as key chains. Select your shade from an array of soft roses and striking crimsons (in satin, sheer, and matte finishes), then choose your cap. Each one showcases a print that references one of Carolina Herrera’s couture pieces, explains Wes Gordon, the brand’s creative director. “The rainbow cap is inspired by a cape I created for Lena Waithe’s 2018 Met Gala outfit, and the heart pattern uses a motif [from] resort 2019. [Carolina and I] loved the idea of being able to ‘dress your makeup up,’ as it were.” Add a colorful tassel and charm (heart, jasmine flower, or beetle) for a key chain lipstick that’s all…

What’s the point of wearing mascara if it winds up on your lids? That’s a rhetorical question. And one that I—and my oily, hooded eyelids—don’t have to worry about with Blinc UltraVolume Tubing Mascara. The jet-black pigment stays on lashes using trusty tubing technology (tiny polymers wrap around hairs, explains cosmetic chemist Ginger King) for a flake- and smudge-free finish with tons of volume. As easy as it is to wear this foolproof formula all day, it’s even easier to remove: Warm water and gentle rubbing are all it takes to whisk away those tiny tubes. The March Allure Beauty Box includes Blinc UltraVolume Tubing Mascara along with six other products ($23 per month). Go to allure.com/beautyreporter to subscribe to the Allure Beauty Box by March 31 and get this…

You don’t need a chemistry degree to dabble in the world of product formulation these days. With the push of a button, multichamber bottles mix skin-care ingredients in your palm that may not cohabitate well long-term, says cosmetic chemist Ginger King. Clarins Double Serum Eye, for example, houses oil-soluble ingredients (brightening turmeric, moisturizing avocado and squalane) in one compartment and water-soluble ones (antioxidant kiwi, soothing ginger lily, and radiance-boosting horse chestnut) in another. “Usually, mixing oil- and water-based ingredients in one formula requires an emulsifier. By combining them right before application instead, you eliminate the emulsifier, which can sometimes be irritating on skin,” says King. “You’re layering two products without the oily feel of an oil and with more moisture than you could get from a water-based cream alone.” Lancôme…

THERE ARE BEAUTY BRANDS THAT give back—and then there are brands that are created with a specific philanthropic mission at their core. There aren’t many in that second group and even fewer are driven by a global superstar. But when Selena Gomez founded Rare Beauty in 2020, she was passionate about it bringing the world more than silky lip colors and cushiony blushes (though she certainly does that well). “I have bipolar [disorder] and I’m not afraid to say that’s something I deal with. That’s something that I live with,” she told us on a recent call. “I’m gonna take [my experience] and create a space for other girls and boys—whoever they identify as—[so] they don’t go through what I’ve gone through.” Founded alongside Gomez’s makeup brand was her nonprofit,…

OURSELF DAILY DARK SPOT INTERCEPT For this beauty start-up, chemists and engineers specializing in biotechnology have developed a library of peptides with 10 patent filings and claims of fading dark spots and smoothing wrinkles. PRIMA THE AFTERGLOW VEGAN COLLAGEN AND CBD MOISTURIZING CREAM With vegan, fermented collagen—and a nod from Aganovic—this bioengineered moisturizer visibly enhanced skin firmness by 13 percent in one small, independent clinical study. BIOSSANCE SQUALANE + COPPER PEPTIDE RAPID PLUMPING SERUM Fermenting squalane from sugar cane has made Biossance a leader in biotech skin care, says Aganovic. It is the star of the brand’s hydrating range and its newest serum. SHISEIDO ESSENTIAL ENERGY HYDRATING CREAM More than a moisturizer, this is a little piece of biotech beauty history, featuring the groundbreaking Streptococcus zooepidemicus hyaluronic acid patented by…

“It’s very hard to convince big brands to spend money on a small minority group,” says Burke. These products are some of the best options available right now. L’Occitane, which has had Braille on its packaging since the ’90s, and now on roughly 70 percent of its products (including the popular Almond Shower Oil, left), is working on ways to expand this across the line. Olay Easy Open Lids are free, have wings on either side, a grippy top, higher-contrast labels, and Braille text. The design is opensource, so other brands can use it. Cleanlogic exfoliators are identifiable by touch and the Braille on the packaging is high-quality—the equivalent of “crisp, freshly printed, dark-black lettering,” says Burke. Guide Beauty Eyeliner Duo was created by makeup artist Terri Bryant, who has…

A FEW MONTHS AFTER I WAS born, my mom opened up her first salon. I wasn’t even a year old and I was there every day. As soon as I could wipe down a salon chair, I was wiping down salon chairs. I cleaned barber tools and swept up. Then I became a shampoo girl. That was all before I was 10. Everybody used to say I would take over my mom’s store when I got older. But I said, “No, I want to be a doctor.” I never thought of [the salon] for myself at all. But around 2017 or 2018, my mom asked me to color a wig for her and it came out really well. And since I was coloring the wigs, I learned how to install…

UNDERNEATH ROSE-GOLD streamers are pots of glitter and sparkling rhinestones in every color and shape you could imagine—and then some. The plan: “Go nuts.” I am standing in front of the makeup table on the set of HBO’s Euphoria, it’s one of the last days of season two taping, and makeup artist Donni Davy has no concerns about letting loose. Three years ago, though, it was a different story. She had just started her job as makeup department head of a major, new HBO production, and when is the last time your boss told you to “go nuts”? Really? But Davy soon realized that because this show was filmed dark and shadowy, the makeup needed to be dazzling enough to catch light wherever it could be found. She stocked up…

WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB? Scooping ice cream? Selling slap bracelets at Claire’s? A billion dollars says you weren’t booking hairstyling appointments out of your parents’ kitchen in the seventh grade—unless you are Nikki Nelms, in which case that bet is off. The hairstylist behind some of the most inventive looks of recent years started out doing her teachers’ hair after eighth period. “My mother would be like, ‘Why is your Spanish teacher coming to the house to get her hair done?’” says Nelms. After dropping out of college, she got her start in music videos, including Kanye’s “Gold Digger” and Timbaland and Magoo’s “Indian Flute.” Then, soon enough, she found herself with a red carpet–regular clientele. After connecting with Nelms, Janelle Monáe, Zoë Kravitz, and Solange Knowles quickly began…

“I was just thinking about you.” These are the first words that Amanda Gorman says when she sees me on the set of her Allure photo shoot. I have to resist the urge to scan the room to find who she is speaking to since she and I had only met once before, for a total of 30 seconds. Two months prior, we were both appearing on the Today show. It seemed a coincidence: two Black women with natural hair, wearing yellow dresses, taping segments one after the other (I for Allure’s new crop of Best of Beauty winners, Gorman for her children’s book, Change Sings). Of course, we did what our Black mothers taught us and said hello. First there was a nod of acknowledgment, then proper introductions. Before…

For her first-ever television appearance, Gigi Goode wore golden feathered curls, caramel Krispy Kreme glazed lips, and an Evel Knievel one-piece with a neckline that jumped perilously from her collarbone to her navel, made by her mother. “I’m my own goddamn Barbie doll,” she said, with the assured charisma of a self-made star, “and it’s a dream come true. Like, I’m getting paid for this?” But dolls don’t tend to have personalities. Unless they’re haunted dolls, and those are borrowed personalities. Yet Goode is so chock full of humanity, it tends to reveal itself unexpectedly, like a teddy bear shedding its stuffing. She began her run on the 12th season of RuPaul’s Drag Race in a pirate costume and she ended it as runner-up. Her impersonation of a robot was…