Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2022 i Allure

Lately, I’ve been thinking a lot about my grandmother and the way she shopped for beauty. She would go to a department store, head straight to the one makeup counter that had sales associates who looked like her (Fashion Fair Cosmetics) and purchase everything she needed. For skin care, she relied on her local Mary Kay saleswoman. Decades later, when it came time for me to wear makeup, my experience was pretty similar. My mother drove me to the nearest mall with a MAC counter (by that time, MAC had become the one brand that every Black woman under 40 relied on for foundation) to get my first set of makeup (foundation, mascara, blush, and my very own Chestnut lip liner and Lipglass combo). For skin care, I headed to…

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On her first-ever red carpet: “I had no reason to be [at that awards show] other than I got an invite from my publicist. I remember just being terrified. I remember my knees shaking aggressively, because it was so strange.” On paring down: “I used to get so embarrassed when I’d open my bathroom cabinet, because I had endless mountains of products that I’d been told to get and hadn’t quite finished, and they just collected dust. So I love that now, I have a really minimal three-, four-step routine that I know works. I definitely encourage a good sunscreen. My favorite is Avène Cleanance Sun Cream SPF50+—it’s in that lovely orange bottle. I wash my face, maybe use a cryoball [facial massager] from the freezer. The Noble Panacea Chronobiology Sleep…

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The model has been in the makeup chair since she was a teen and picked up a trick or two along the way—so much so that she’s done her own glam for past events. “I love the time to myself,” says Huntington-Whiteley. These days, her vanity also serves as a testing ground for Rose Inc, the makeup line she launched last year. Before the products come to life, though, Huntington-Whiteley often puts her ideas on paper, so it’s no wonder she knew exactly what to do when we sent a blank face chart in her likeness. “A soft, feline flick is my signature,” she says, adding that a wash of brown shadow on the outer corners of lids and beneath the lower lash line helps with definition. A dab of…

Fulfilling a campaign promise that had helped propel him to the presidency, Joe Biden nominated Ketanji Brown Jackson to the Supreme Court. She is the first Black woman in history to have scaled this Everest of American Constitutional law. The honor was deeply humbling, as she frequently has said, but more importantly, it was earned. Not that there weren’t indignities to endure along the way. At her confirmation hearings, one senator asked Brown Jackson to define a woman (a favorite transphobic bomb lobbed by the right) and another seemed to need her to explain how internet porn works. Through it all, she maintained a preternatural calm, wearing an expression of composed exasperation on her face that MSNBC host Joy Reid described as “every Black woman ever.” After Brown Jackson officially…

A NEW PODCAST HOSTED BY JENNY BAILLY, EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR, AND DIANNA MAZZONE, SENIOR BEAUTY EDITOR Join Allure as we explore the inextricable link between science and beauty — and don’t be surprised if you discover your next favorite serum, hair mask, or scalp treatment along the way. If you’ve always wondered what a wrinkle actually is and how retinol can make it go away, or why your hair is curly and which polymers will give it the most spring, come get nerdy with us! LISTEN & SUBSCRIBE TO THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY WHEREVER YOU GET YOUR PODCASTS…

Rhapsody in Blue What we call “twilight,” Guerlain calls L’Heure Bleue. We don’t know precisely when perfumer Jacques Guerlain first beheld the fragile minutes after the sun has just set, when the still-warm indigo sky glows like velvet and it’s not yet “night.” But we do know it was 110 years ago that he attempted to bottle the moment with a mix of tuberose and rose that settles in a powdery iris finish. Now, the house has reissued the big, blue hour in a very big, blue bottle that’s velvety to the touch, finished in matte International Klein Blue, as if dip-dyed into the twilit sky itself. (This ultramarine color was trademarked in 1957 by French artist Yves Klein, who created a famous monochrome painting with the shade.) The one-and-a-half-liter…

I’ve always been a creative person and loved nail art since I was little. But I never got to go to the salon. I’ll find photos from when I was 12 to 15 of my badly done nails—and at the time, I thought it was so good. [When I was 18], I enrolled in a fine arts course at Central Saint Martins UAL in Kings Cross, London, specializing in sculpture. It’s mainly a fashion school and everyone is dressed in their own designs. A few of my friends had amazing nails. I’d never seen gems and mirror powder on nails and I wanted beautiful, long nails too. So I bought a polygel kit from Amazon and got good at building a really nice-looking nail. When the pandemic started I had nothing…

My mom, she always loved to dress up, and she was a very big proponent of if you leave the house, you try to look your best. We would always end up being late because she spent so much time getting ready. I started paying attention when I six or seven years old. I remember she would put on foundation and she’d always look so beautiful. That carried over when I started doing drag because I always focus on the skin the most. Becoming Symone took a while because when I started doing makeup at about 16 years old, I didn’t really know what I was doing. There wasn’t YouTube. Well, there was YouTube, but it was nowhere near what it would be a couple of years later, as far…

My homework for the week was to say no—and I couldn’t stop apologizing for it. “No, I don’t want to listen to your sad-boy music,” I told my boyfriend as he picked up our car’s aux cord. “I’m the driver, and I want to listen to Dua Lipa.” (Sorry.) “No, I can’t use my last seven PTO days to go on a trip with you,” I told my mom on the phone. (My bad.) And when the editor of this story asked if my draft was ready, I Slacked back, “Nope, not yet. I need a few more days.” (Okay, in this case I actually was sorry.) I know that no means no. No is, as Instagram infographics have informed us for years, a full sentence. So why did I…

None of us wanted to face it. Yet it had to happen sometime. Serena Williams announced this year not that she was retiring (there are few people to whom that word applies less) but “evolving away from tennis” to concentrate on other pursuits. Millions can remember the particular thrill of seeing her take the court at Wimbledon, Roland-Garros, or the Australian Open. If you were ever lucky enough to witness this in person, the excitement was that much more palpable. And her explosive energy during play was breathtaking. Her farewell match this September in Arthur Ashe Stadium at the US Open seemed to encapsulate 27-plus years of her legend. The 23-time grand slam singles champion and four-time Olympic gold medalist strode onto the court to thunderous cheers and applause that…

When you’re fighting an information war, you don’t turn down an opportunity to reach millions all over the world. Ukrainian first lady Olena Zelenska’s message discipline, whether speaking to the US Congress, the Biden administration, international news outlets, or Vogue has been remarkable. She and her husband, President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, have shown themselves to be tremendously skilled at rallying hearts and minds (leading to dollars and weapons) to Ukraine’s side. Predictably enough, the Vogue shoot attracted criticism—from those who said it glamorized war (it did not) and, bizarrely, from those who thought Zelenska was sitting in an unfeminine way. (Yes, WTAF?) Women supporters of, you know, sanity, began posting pictures of themselves sitting in a similar fashion with #SitLikeAGirl. Zelenska told the BBC: “I believe it is more important to…

TikTok has become known as the birthplace of bonkers trends—bucket bunnies, NyQuil chicken, the corncob challenge. Some are silly and harmless, others bizarre and dangerous. It’s no different with beauty. So we present the 2022 TikTok beauty matrix: Dangerous, harmless, useless, and effective are points on the compass. See if you agree with what goes where. PERFUME AS BUG REPELLENT Yes, Victoria’s Secret Bombshell may repel female mosquitoes, but it could also attract other insects. SKIN CYCLING A four-night regimen that alternates between active ingredients and rest is actually a pretty great plan. GYM LIPS If you want to work out with overlined lips and a heavy dose of balm, no harm done. TANNING NASAL SPRAY Inhaling L-tyrosine to increase melanin production has no proven efficacy—or safety. KIDCORE A refreshing, rainbow-colored…

If you watch old episodes of Inside the Actors Studio, you’ll learn about the method and process that actors use to become other people. Leonardo DiCaprio slept inside an animal carcass to prepare for his role in The Revenant and Tom Holland secretly shadowed a student at a Bronx high school before filming Spider-Man: Homecoming. One thing you won’t hear about is perfume. But it has quietly become a character-development tool on sets and sound stages. Susan Sarandon, who wears a different scent for each of her movies, shared the strategy with Kirsten Dunst, who has used it too. So have Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Emma Stone, and Penélope Cruz. “It’s a wonderful secret weapon,” says Laura Linney, who has also used fragrance to get into a character’s headspace. “It just hits you…

Pigeon dung. Horse urine. Mud. Peroxide and ammonia. Soap flakes, bleach, lemon juice. Gold dust and dye made of saffron, the most expensive spice in the world. All of these have something in common: humanity’s relentless obsession with blonde. People across time and civilizations have subjected their hair fibers to all of the above in pursuit of becoming more blonde. There is something about what it means to have golden hair, to have the kind of beauty that poets have written epics about, the kind that soldiers kept grainy photographs of in foxholes, that makes coating your hair with pigeon dung seem rational. Blonde is a dream to hold on to. Blonde is glamour, sex. When you think of a “blonde bombshell,” you think not only of the woman herself…

THE LOWDOWN Take all the elegance of a ballerina bun and multiply it by 1,000 when you nestle a simple black bow on top, like at Brandon Maxwell’s fall show (right). (Add a little French braid if you’re really feeling ambitious.) This math holds for low ponytails too. Hairstylist Sunnie Brook likes Jennifer Behr’s bow clips or simply tying ribbon to a bobby pin prepped with hairspray. ON THE BRIGHT SIDE No bun skills? No problem. Find inspiration from Sandy Liang’s spring show (left): Take the small section of hair that’s in front of your ear and pull it back with a bow, says Brook, “or the bow can play peekaboo if you pull your hair to one side and secure it almost at the middle-back [of your head]. First,…

Much like makeup can convey a character’s emotions or help drive a story without a word being uttered, nudity itself is becoming a character on television—both literally and figuratively. Take Pam & Tommy, the limited series based in part on the 2014 Rolling Stone article about Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee’s stolen sex tape. Before the premiere, chatter revolved around Lily James’s uncanny resemblance to Pam. After critics were able to preview the show, however, Tommy’s talking, er, Little Tommy became the focus. And the forthcoming phallus walked us right into the penissance of 2022. That level of humanization (several penis puppeteers were involved) is an extreme example of this new cinematic era. But just as New York was almost a character in Sex and the City, nudity is taking…

Creating the hair and makeup looks for the highly anticipated sequel to Black Panther would be a tall order on any day. But filming in Atlanta during the humid days of summer presented a particularly challenging set of circumstances for hair department head Camille Friend and key makeup Kimberly Felix-Burke. Another challenge? Many of the film’s pivotal scenes take place underwater, which required shooting in tanks. “We’d have to get in there and do touch-ups [on the actors],” says Felix-Burke, who notes that the citizens of the underwater kingdom of Talokan were painted head to toe in blue. (It was makeup department head Joel Harlow’s idea to use paint rollers to streamline the process.) Of course, the final looks (including Lupita Nyong’o’s locs and the colorful patterns painted on Danai…

For 30-plus years, Allure has been reporting on those ever-more-frequent moments when beauty bursts from its narrow lane of hair, makeup, and skin-care trends to dominate the news and occupy a central space in popular culture. In 2002, when Botox was approved by the FDA as a temporary treatment for frown lines, the media became obsessed with suburban Botox parties and a free-floating anxiety that human faces would soon lose forever the ability to express emotion. (Apparently, the word “temporary” had temporarily lost its meaning.) Starting with two royal weddings (in 2011 and 2018), the incredible trendsetting power of the Princess of Wales and the Duchess of Sussex ruled the click economy. For eight years (2009 to 2016), anytime Michelle Obama changed her hairstyle, people lost their everlovin’ minds. (On the…

A Rosy Outlook Cheekbones achieve new heights when saturated with color and contrasted against bleached-out brows dusted with yellow shadow. Isa Boulder top. To create a similar makeup look: Artist Color Shadow in Buttercup and Chalk, Artist Face Color in Raspberry, and Ultra HD Lip Booster in Cinema by Make Up For Ever. Blue Note The key ingredient here: Nars Tinted Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base Primer. It holds on to powders for dear life “and it’s totally transparent, so I can use it on dark and light skin tones,” says Gibrien. Icy Hot Warm colors like red, orange, and pink take on a fresh effect when contrasted with a cool metallic silver, says Gibrien. Feeling Flush When you’re wearing a teal micro bob, your statement has been made. So, for her…

…to 1991, when Allure began, and ’80s turquoise shadows with red lipsticks were just starting to give way to the frosted champagne lids and metallic lip colors of the ’90s (déjà vu, anyone?). Here, two of the grunge decade’s beauty heavyweights—makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin and Naomi Campbell—teamed up to help us forecast what would become an enduring trend of the era: “Dramatic eyes and neutral lips make for a striking contrast. But earth tones, not brights, define the look,” Allure wrote in the November issue that year.…