Indholdsfortegnelse for Jul/Aug 2017 i Bake from Scratch

ONE LOOK AT MY PHOTO, and you might be wondering why I’m wearing a sweatshirt in the summer heat (to be fair, the photo was taken in April). But as soon as I saw Martha Stewart and Snoop Dogg wearing them, I knew I needed one, too. I’m also wearing it to celebrate our 2017 Baker’s Dozen list—representing the movers and shakers of our incredible baking world. You’ll learn about the person behind the sweatshirt design and so many others on page 43. For our “Bakery Profile” in this issue, we take you to Detroit, Michigan, to share the amazingness of Sister Pie and the important role they’ve played in the rebirth of the Motor City. Imagine a place where Instagramworthy pies meet a “pie-it-forward” movement driven by a James…

The undisputed champion of tang in the baking world is none other than the versatile, wonder staple known as buttermilk. This prized liquid, traditionally what’s left after churning fresh cream into butter, gets its star power from its ability to collude with baking powder and lift biscuits to new heights. Buttermilk breaks down gluten to soften the crumb of your favorite cake, while the lactic acid and its signature zing makes pies, scones, and breads sing. Buttermilk ain’t too proud to play backup, either. It often employs subtle nuances to add depth and complexity of flavor to whatever it is added to. What is considered buttermilk today is not what it used to be. For a better understanding, let’s look at traditional buttermilk and the butter churn before refrigeration. When…

South Africa’s blessed sunny weather has led to its most popular cuisine: braai. Equal parts social gathering and food extravaganza, a South African braai most closely resembles our American barbecue block party. Family, friends, and neighbors join together to grill meat over an open flame—not on a gas grill mind you, but a traditional charcoal or wood-fueled flame where a braai grid (much like a grill basket) is placed. But before the meat can be served, hungry guests are treated to roosterkoek (pronounced roor-stir-cook), a yeasted bread heated over the coals until cooked through and branded with the grill grate. The finished product is torn open while still warm, offering a perfect pocket for chutney, relish, or other condiments. TRADITIONAL ROOSTERKOEK Makes 16 Roosterkoek, which roughly translates to griddle cake,…

Long before she was a James Beard Award-winning author, Sarah Owens was a gardener. Sarah spent six years as the curator of one of North America’s largest and loveliest rose gardens, the Cranford Rose Garden in Brooklyn. Now, with her latest cookbook, Toast & Jam: Modern Recipes for Rustic Baked Goods and Sweet and Savory Breads (Roost Books), Sarah brings the simple pleasures of botany and harvesting back into the kitchen. With recipes like Violet Petal Jam and Dandelion and Turmeric Jelly, Sarah hopes to inspire home bakers to preserve new elements of nature—everything from weeds to flowers to shrubs. First time preservers can rest easy. We talked to Sarah to get her tips and tricks to turn canning rookies into all-stars. SARAH’S TOP FIVE PRESERVING TIPS 1. THE BEST…

CHADWICK BOYD Chadwick Boyd is a food and lifestyle expert, TV host, and author. He has appeared on Food Network, the daytime talk show Harry, NBC, Fox, PBS, and Lifetime, sharing recipes and entertaining tips with viewers. He currently is promoting his new recipe collection, Entertaining with Vegetables. Chadwick helps organize the Southern Food Writing Conference and International Biscuit Festival. Go-to dessert for a summer cookout: “Pinot soaked berries with fresh garden mint—for biscuits, shortbread, and cold, cold vanilla bean ice cream.” DEVRA FIRST Devra First is the food editor of The Boston Globe, where she was previously the restaurant critic. Recently recovering from her life of anonymity, she now gets to spend a lot more time in her kitchen playing with dough. A New York native, she continues her…

I have eaten the plums that were in the icebox and which you were probably saving for breakfast Forgive me they were delicious so sweet and so cold Creative bakers can find ideas everywhere: childhood nostalgia for one of mom’s favorite recipes, a talented chef’s savory creation, or even just a foray through the farmers’ market on an abundant summer day. But that spark of inspiration can come from less likely sources as well. Take, for example, this Plum Icebox Cake, whose cold, creamy layers pay homage to “This is Just to Say,” one of our favorite poems by William Carlos Williams: Who doesn’t relish a cold, juicy plum on a hot summer day? Taking this idea and running with it, we’ve baked up crispy, aromatic Tarragon Vanilla Wafers, which…

Not all buttermilk is created equal. Here are some of the best producers in the United States who still make the real deal. Cruze Dairy Farm Knoxville, Tennessee A beloved Southern buttermilk made from Jersey cows. cruzefarm.com Animal Farm Orwell, Vermont Buttermilk straight from the churn; distributed throughout New England by Provisions International and found at Saxelby Cheesemongers in New York City. animalfarmvt.com Milky Way Farm Starr, South Carolina Certified raw milk dairy with thick, creamy buttermilk. scmilkywayfarm.com Kate’s Old Orchard Beach, Maine Three generations of family, churning fresh cream. kateshomemadebutter.com Pittsford Farms Dairy & Bakery Pittsford, New York An old-fashioned dairy producing fine buttermilk for over a century. facebook.com/PittsfordFarmsDairyBakery…

The Maker ARON FISCHER Facture Goods | Columbia, Missouri facturegoods.com From jam spreaders to café au lait bowls, Facture Goods owner and artist Aron Fischer brings an artist’s eye to utilitarian kitchen tools. Using just his own two hands, he creates small batch kitchen wares and utensils with hardwoods, clay, and metal. Here, Aron gives us the scoop on what makes his products come to life. EBONIZED BRASS & WOOD MEASURING SPOONS My goods are primitive modern. The hammered brass bowl can be looked at as more clean and modern, while the wood handle is more primitive and rustically carved. THE BRASS: I like the juxtaposition of different aesthetics, like brass and wood. Brass is awesome because it looks so Mid-Century modern when it’s paired with wood in certain…

CELERY GRUYÈRE GOUGÈRES Makes about 30 Celery is my favorite vegetable, and it is often misunderstood and underutilized. There is something lovely about celery’s unique pungent flavor, especially when it mellows while cooking. These French “puffs” celebrate every part of this vegetable, from its crunchy stalks to its tender leaves. This recipe is inspired by one of Julia Child’s favorite flavor combos—celery, butter, and cream. Here, celery and butter are cooked down until soft and turned into a traditional gougères batter swirled with rich bits of Gruyère cheese and laced with pieces of celery leaves, which provide a distinct yet delicate flavor. The glossy dough balls are sprinkled with dark celery seeds and flaky Maldon sea salt, and then placed in a hot oven to puff into airy, crusty, cheesy…

When you think about Boston cream pie, think of Ho Chi Minh. The dessert—layers of pastry surrounding a spill of custard, the top glazed in chocolate—is often said to have been invented at Boston’s Omni Parker House, where the future Communist revolutionary worked as a baker around 1912. His marble-topped pastry table can still be seen on display at the hotel. (Malcolm X would later work there, too, as a busboy. Something in the water?) Imagine it: A jazz band plays in an ornate dining room, while politicians and upper-class swells dine on scrod, baked beans, and a confection once prepared for guests by a man who would go on to fight for Communism and lead North Vietnam. How rich. Parker House opened in 1855, employing the uni-named French chef…

Visiting Sister Pie, a bakery on Detroit’s east side, gives rise to philosophical questions. Questions like: Can a bakery be too welcoming? Can it be too down-home-meets-Pinterest, too Instagram perfect? Is this even for real? This gives way, almost instantly, to a second question: Can one die from consuming too much pie? On any given morning, the former beauty salon is bustling awake along with the stable residential West Village neighborhood in which it resides. Head baker and owner Lisa Ludwinski usually arrives before dawn from her nearby apartment, and flicks on the pink neon sign above the door. Soon, the walls of windows flood the shop with early light as its bakers get to work in an open kitchen, turning out batches of handmade pastry. The early hours are…

BOURBON-BRAISED PINEAPPLE DOUGHNUTS Makes about 18 Our adult version of a classic doughnut receives a little help from the Bluegrass State’s signature spirit. We braise fresh pineapple in a brown sugar-bourbon sauce for a tangy, boozy glaze. ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter 2 cups plus 3 tablespoons (525 grams) whole milk ¼ cup (56 grams) vegetable oil 3 large eggs (150 grams), lightly beaten 2 tablespoons (18 grams) plus ⅛ teaspoon active dry yeast 7⅓ cups (931 grams) bread flour ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (174 grams) granulated sugar 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Peanut oil, for frying Bourbon-Braised Pineapple Glaze (recipe follows) 1. In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Whisk in milk, oil, and eggs; cook until mixture registers between 100°F (38°C) and 110°F…

PEACH ALMOND CAKE Makes 8 servings Fresh, juicy peach halves give this vanilla and buttermilk cake bursts of color and concentrated sweet-tart flavor, while the addition of brandy to the homemade marzipan lends just the right amount of kick. 1 cup (286 grams) Brandy Almond Marzipan (recipe follows), room temperature 6 medium fresh peaches (900 grams) 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 3 large eggs (150 grams) 1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean paste 2½ cups (313 grams) all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk ½ cup (57 grams) sliced almonds 1. Prepare Brandy Almond Marzipan. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with parchment paper, letting…

PLUM-AND-PRETZEL CHEESECAKE PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie Salty pretzels are an excellent base for this slightly sweet mascarpone cheesecake. The plums macerate in a mixture of brown sugar and nutmeg then bake directly on the cheesecake batter. Finish this dessert with an orange-scented glaze for a pretty presentation. 4 large plums (360 grams), pitted and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices 6 tablespoons (84 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar, divided ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 2 cups (186 grams) finely ground pretzels 10 tablespoons (140 grams) unsalted butter, melted ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar 1 (8-ounce) container (226 grams) mascarpone cheese, softened ½ (8-ounce) package (113 grams) cream cheese, softened 1 large egg (50 grams) 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract 1 teaspoon orange zest…

Baking with bananas is nothing new. With a natural sweetness and tender texture, this yellow fruit is a familiar friend in every baker’s kitchen. What recently caught our attention—and what we are celebrating here—is how bakers are showcasing bananas. Baking length-cut bananas into the top of a baked good not only honors the fruit’s natural shape, but also gives your treat a unique look without sacrificing any flavor. Take a peek at the baking blogosphere or scroll through Instagram. You can’t miss this gorgeous trend: bakers everywhere are going bananas for bananas (sorry, I had to), and we are no exception. From the time I was a child, my mom has been making homemade Bananas Foster for me at special occasions, so we let that inspire the flavor for our…