It’s been a long mile, trudging uphill in the rain, across uninspiring fields, past rickety ruins of long-abandoned farm buildings, mud slowly working its way up my waterproof trousers.
Sometimes walking is like this: you take the rough with the smooth, the dreary with the wonderful. On this occasion, though, it feels like a message. After two days’ walking under azure skies in the nearby Yorkshire Dales, I’ve come to Pendle, scene of one of Britain’s darkest, cruellest trials, and it’s hammering down… “Welcome to witch country!”
I’ve been staying at HF Holidays’ Newfield Hall, near Malham, using the walking tour operator’s reassuringly detailed route cards to explore the National Park by myself. Today, however, I’ve ventured into the Forest of Bowland National Landscape to visit an area I’ve heard…