Indholdsfortegnelse for Your pruning Year 2024 i BBC Gardeners' World

Once the risk of hard frosts has passed, you can cut back hardy fuchsias and other ‘sub-shrubs’. These plants are half-way between herbaceous perennials, which die back to ground level in winter, and shrubs, which have a permanent woody structure. These plants should be pruned annually, otherwise they can become leggy and liable to splitting under the weight of new growth. In colder parts of the UK, or in harsh winters, the stems may have been killed right down to ground level, but will re-sprout in spring. 1 Prune back thicker stems to just above a ‘node’, or pair of buds, low down on the stem. This allows stems that have survived the winter to heal, and prevents dieback down into the plant’s crown. 2 Remove all the thinnest, weakest shoots,…

Like many spring-flowering shrubs, philadelphus carries its blooms on short sideshoots, produced from strong stems made in previous years. But this doesn’t mean you have to leave all the old stems in place. Removing the oldest, thickest ones at ground level, along with any that are dead or damaged, will reduce the shrub’s overall size. It will also stimulate strong shoots to sprout from low down, which will take over in future years. The aim is to create a succession of stems of different ages, over a cycle of about three years. 1 Prune out three or four of the oldest, thickest stems at the base, to encourage new ones to form. When done annually, this creates a succession of flowering stems for future years. 2 Thin out the younger stems…

Fruit trees don’t have to take up a lot of space. By planting trained trees, in shapes such as espaliers, cordons and fans, you can fit apples, pears and more into the smallest of gardens. Either growing against a wall or fence, or as a garden divider, they make an attractive feature. Even when deciduous, they look good all year round, with blossom in spring, ripening fruits and foliage colour from summer to autumn, and bold structural shapes over winter. They’ll also give you a surprisingly large crop in a small space, if pruned correctly. You can buy ready-trained trees from fruit nurseries or train them yourself from scratch. PROJECT ONE Train an espalier Espaliers need to be trained along horizontal wires fitted to a fence or sturdy posts. These trees…

Pruning straight after planting is known as formative pruning, as it directs the future shape of the plant. The aim is to develop a balanced structure of branches. Unpruned growth can become overly long and straggly. Most trees need some formative pruning, but take care not to cut out the main stem or leader. Creating a shapely plant isn’t the only reason to prune. When new trees and shrubs are buffeted by wind, their small root system is easily loosened, which prevents it getting established. Reducing the plant’s size reduces the risk, and with less top growth to support, the plant has more energy to make new roots. PROJECT ONE Prune a young tree It’s all too common to see mature or semi-mature trees with serious structural flaws. But many…

Apple and pear trees benefit from being pruned twice a year – once in the dormant season and again around midsummer. Winter pruning involves thinning out overcrowded branches and fruiting spurs, removing any damaged or diseased stems, and cutting back vigorous shoots by half. Hard pruning in the dormant season encourages vigorous regrowth in spring. Aim to cut around 10 to 20 per cent from the canopy each winter, working evenly around it. Start with sharp tools so you only make clean cuts. 1 First remove any dead, dying or diseased shoots. Then thin out any overcrowded branches to leave fewer, healthy shoots. Cut back to a main branch or a healthy, outward-facing bud. 2 Prune out branches and shoots that are growing into the centre of the tree. This…

Pruning regularly is the best way to keep trees and shrubs in good shape. But when a shrub gets overgrown, the only option is to give it a hard prune. This involves removing up to half of the stems at the base, then reducing the rest by about half. You may be tempted to dig out the shrub instead, but unless you learn how to prune, you’ll soon have the same problem again. Rejuvenation pruning is the answer, and for hardy deciduous shrubs, winter is the time to do it. PROJECT ONE Renovate a neglected shrub Before you start pruning, take time to examine your shrub (such as this deutzia) to identify the oldest stems, any damaged, diseased or crossing branches, and plan how you’ll tackle the rest. Aim to…

Make the right cut Leaf bud or flower bud? Most plants produce two types of buds: flower buds and leaf buds. Knowing one from the other is key to ensuring you always prune for optimum flowering and fruiting. Pruning cuts are usually made just above a leaf bud, stimulating a new shoot to form from this point. On some plants leaf buds occur in pairs on opposite sides of a stem, on others they may alternate on opposite sides up the stem. Stem colour Stems react differently to pruning at different times of year. Cutting young, green stems stimulates branching; in summer, on reddishbrown stems, it reduces vigour and encourages flower buds; in winter, on dark, rigid stems, it stimulates vigorous growth. SPRING In spring plants start into growth, making…

Shrubby dogwoods or cornus are prized for their vibrant winter stems. The colour is at its best on young shoots, so the aim of pruning is to encourage plenty of vigorous new growth. This is done by pruning all the stems back hard every year in early spring. Once your shrub is a couple of years old, start pruning it annually to create a permanent, low framework, from which vibrant shoots will sprout each year. After the winter display, prune these back hard to stimulate a new flush of colourful shoots to enjoy the following winter. 1 Make your cuts carefully, positioning the secateurs just above a pair of buds and cutting at a downward slant. New stems will sprout from the buds, so it is important not to damage them.…

These shrubs are deservedly popular, both for their hardiness and sheer volume of blooms. However, like many other spring-flowering shrubs, weigela can outgrow its place in the garden. Still, if pruned annually it can be grown in even the smallest gardens. It’s best to prune as soon as the last blooms begin to fade, so that more of the plant’s energy is channelled into new growth. Before you start, stand back and assess the shrub to work out which are the oldest, thickest branches, as these need to be removed. 1 Reduce the longest woody stems by about half, cutting just above a new shoot. This will thin out the shrub, so you can get in closer to the centre and clearly see the framework of branches. 2 Use loppers to…

Most hedges should be cut in summer, although yew (pictured) can be left until autumn if preferred. Hedges produce lots of sideshoots when the main stems are trimmed. If clipped twice a year, the top and sides should develop a solid ‘surface’, composed of the bases of these shoots, covered with masses of new buds that will quickly clothe the hedge in new shoots. You need sharp shears or a hedgetrimmer, and should usually remove 10-15cm of growth. The soft clippings are rich in nitrogen, so decompose well on a compost heap. 1 Put a guide line in place to ensure you get a level, even cut. Push several tall canes down through the front of the hedge and into the ground. Position them at regular intervals along the hedge. 2…

Summer-fruiting raspberries, like most cane fruits, crop best on stems (or canes) produced the previous year. So if you remove all the old canes after harvesting, your plants will channel their energy into the new stems, which will fruit next year. It’s also beneficial to thin out these new canes, as they can get overcrowded. Leave only strong, well-spaced new canes, and tie them to supports, as they can grow tall and flop over. Autumn-fruiting raspberries, by contrast, fruit on the current year’s stems, and are best pruned in late winter. 1 First identify the old canes – look for stems that have fruited and turned woody grey-brown. Remove them all, cutting right down at the base. Take care not to damage the new green canes. 2 Go through the remaining…

This rampant climber can put on several metres of twining growth in a year, which can soon turn into a tangle of stems with few flowers. If you want to extend the main framework of your plant, tie some of the new growth to the supports. Then cut the remaining long stems back hard. You can do this at any time during the dormant season, from late October to March. To further restrict its vigorous growth and encourage flowering, wisteria should be pruned a second time, during July every year (see p41).. 1 Check over the plant, tying in any long shoots that you want to keep to extend the main framework. Also replace any existing ties that are too tight and are cutting into the stems. 2 Leave the short,…

Pruning is essential for the overall health, vitality and appearance of roses, and February is a key time for routine pruning of all types, except ramblers. Modern shrub and English roses tend to be larger than bush roses (such as hybrid teas and floribundas), with thornier stems. They need only light pruning annually, once a good framework of branching stems has been created, from which they produce flowering shoots. The more shrub roses are cut back, the more leafy growth they’ll produce, at the expense of blooms. 1 Modern shrub and English roses can become tall and straggly, so cut out one or two of the oldest stems at the base each year, to encourage vigorous new replacement shoots from low down. 2 Prune back a third of the remaining…

Types of blades Secateurs are available in two main styles, with different cutting actions. Bypass secateurs are the most common type and have a cutting blade that is sharpened on one side. This cuts with a scissor action. Anvil secateurs have a blade sharpened on two sides that cuts down onto a flat plate. Features…

Hydrangeas should be pruned in spring, as the old flowerheads must be left in place over winter. This is because they protect the vulnerable buds and stems from cold. Hydrangea stems are particularly prone to freezing, as their cork-like structure holds moisture,. Left unpruned, hydrangeas soon become a tangle of branches with fewer, smaller flowers held on the tips. But if you cut out a few of the oldest stems every year, you’ll keep the shrub in good shape, with vigorous young stems that carry lots of large blooms. 1 Use secateurs to remove three or four of the oldest, most branched stems, right down at the base. The older stems tend to produce smaller blooms than the younger shoots 2 Select the tallest two-to three-year-old stems and prune them back…

If there’s one thing that will give any garden year-round good looks, it’s topiary. During summer, these living sculptures create dramatic contrasts to colourful flowers and act as visual punctuation marks in a busy border, but topiary is invaluable during winter too. Just when you think your garden is running out of seasonal steam, a whole new shapely evergreen landscape is revealed, with topiary as its star. Creating focal points and novel leafy links, topiary adds structure, style and form. PROJECT ONE Shape a box ball If you’re new to topiary, this is a great starting point. Box is the ideal plant to use, and a simple sphere lets you try out the basic techniques and see fast results. Within a couple of years you’ll have a box ball to…

The biggest benefit of summer pruning is that it limits the size of the tree. But there are other benefits too – it decreases the amount of soft leaves drawing up water, so moisture can be directed into the swelling fruits, and it helps to ripen the fruits by exposing them to more sun. The aim is to reduce this year’s leafy growth all over the tree. This will slow down the growth of the tree, yet allow it to form a framework of more fruiting stems. 1 Assess the tree’s shape before you start. Aim to remove excess growth from the centre, and here and there in the outer canopy, to improve air circulation, as this will deter pests and diseases. 2 Check over the tree for any damaged,…

Left to their own devices, blackcurrant bushes will grow into large, woody shrubs, taking up a lot of room on your plot. Yearly pruning will not only allow you to grow a tasty crop in a small space, but will also result in bigger currants that are juicier and easier to pick. The aim is to remove the oldest, fruited stems and leave between five and seven of the younger, strongest stems to crop next year. By thinning out the stems and opening up the centre of the bush, you’ll also improve air circulation to keep your plants growing healthily. 1 Use loppers to remove some of the stems in the centre of the bush, cutting them down to the base or back to a main branch. This will help air…

These ever popular climbers are best pruned annually to keep them in good shape and flowering well. Timing is crucial though, and varies according to when they flower. Late-flowering varieties, such as Clematis viticella hybrids and Clematis texensis, should be pruned in late winter, around February, when the buds and new stems are beginning to emerge. The late-flowering varieties are classed as ‘Group 3’ clematis – this is the only clematis group that needs to be cut back hard in this way. 1 Untangle the mass of last year’s growth from its support, cutting through any strings and removing ties that have been used for training. Lay the top growth on the ground. 2 Roughly chop off the top growth, initially leaving the stems around 50cm long. Take care not to…

Powering your tools PETROL These trimmers are good for large or overgrown hedges that are not near a power source. Look for models that have an easy-start function, anti-vibration handles and quiet operation. Also look for 4-stroke engines so you don’t have to mix oil and petrol. They are very powerful and ideal for large hedges, but can be heavy and tiring to use. ELECTRIC These are lightweight and easy to use, especially in small to medium gardens where hedges aren’t too far from a power socket. Look for models that cut stems up to 20mm thick, with double-action blades for a neat finish. Always plug it into an RCD, to protect you if you accidentally cut through the power cord. BATTERY These are as easy to use as electric…