PHOTOGRAPHY BY JERED GRUBER
In the morning, we depart a realm of hazelnuts, bound for a land of grapes. We’re riding from Cortemilia to a lunch in Barbaresco, the source of one of Italy’s greatest wines. Like its noble brother Barolo, Barbaresco is made from the nebbiolo grape, which has proven successful only here in Piedmont, southeast of the Alps.
Piedmont, or Piemonte, means “foot of the mountains,” and as that implies, we have some hills to tackle before gustation can commence. First is a climb of 800 feet to the town of Castino, followed by a switchback descent to the rushing Belbo River. Next, a tiny road that could pass for a driveway takes us 1,000 feet skyward in fewer than 3 miles.
Panting uphill past precipitous vineyards, barking…