Indholdsfortegnelse for Sep-15 i Bon Appetit

The 2015 Archetype Angela Dimayuga, Mission Chinese Food, NYC Tall toques? Crisp white coats? Chefs are about as interested in that uniform today as they are in aspic. Just look at Dimayuga, who expresses her personal style on the line with vintage Levi’s, D.I.Y. jewelry, and street-worthy clogs. (To check out her kitchen comrade Danny Bowien’s style, see page 16.) EVEN MORE FOOD + FASHION! What better time to debut a chef-approved outfit than Fashion Week (September 10–17)? Go to BAfeastorfashion.com for access to exclusive Hot Table reservations, custom menus, and VIP treatment at participating New York restaurants.…

Knives are tools. The simplest kind of tools, really: wedges used to break food into pieces more quickly and easily than you could with your bare hands. But watch any professional chef breeze through even the most mundane prep work, and you start to get the sense that it’s a little bit more complicated than that. The fact is that in skilled hands, well-made, well-maintained knives make cooking look like ballet: effortless, elegant, artful. What’s the only thing separating home cooks like us from that level of competency? A little bit of knowledge. Which is why we called upon the nation’s expert knife makers, knife-store owners, and the ultimate knife evangelists— chefs—for their razor-sharp advice on shopping for, sharpening, and skillfully wielding the most important tools in your kitchen. If…

The Bar Method Practice it with us: Make a batch of these seed-and-nut-packed energy bars. Reach for one any time snack cravings strike. Repeat as often as necessary Sesame-Peanut Bars ACTIVE 15 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN (INCLUDES COOLING TIME) MAKES ABOUT 16 Butter an 8x8" glass baking dish; line with parchment paper, leaving a generous overhang on all sides. Mix 1 ¼ cups white and/or black sesame seeds, ¾ cup unsweetened shredded coconut, ¼ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts, and ¼ tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Mix ¼ cup honey, 2 Tbsp. creamy peanut butter, and ¼ tsp. vanilla extract in a small bowl. Add to sesame seed mixture and mix well. Scrape mixture into prepared baking dish; press firmly into an even layer. Bake at…

GAVIN KAYSEN SPOON AND STABLE, MINNEAPOLIS “Every year during open-fishing season in Minnesota, we’d crust walleyes with crushed Ritz crackers and fry them—there’s still nothing better on the planet. But I love the nuttiness that the wild rice adds. Puff some extra wild rice for folding into cooked rice so you get those two textures.” Wild Rice–Crusted Halibut ACTIVE 30 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 4 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided ½ cup wild rice 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 large eggs 4 5–6-oz. skinless halibut, hake, or cod fillets Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper Lemon wedges (for serving) Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium skillet over medium-high. Add rice and cook, tossing occasionally, until grains have popped open like popcorn and are lightly browned, about 2 minutes.…

FOR THE ADDRESSES OF THE SPOTS IN THIS STORY, SEE SOURCEBOOK ON PAGE 176. “If you say, ‘Oh my God, I’m so hungry!’ to someone in Singapore, they’ll laugh in your face. Walk in any direction here and you’ll find something good to eat.” This is the first piece of advice I receive upon landing in Singapore, courtesy of my cab driver. For the next 20 minutes, he rattles off food suggestions while I scribble them down. This scenario will repeat itself a half dozen times during my 12-day eating tour of the tiny island nation, an ethnically diverse citystate that’s celebrating 50 years of independence. The country continues to develop at a dizzying clip, the crown jewel being the unveiling of a new National Gallery this fall. The food…

MEET THE NEW MODEL for what used to be called fine dining, the intimate, scrappy, and refreshingly unintimidating Semilla. Some might miss the white tablecloths, bone china, and hushed tones of the country’s finest restaurants. But not me. What chef José Ramírez-Ruiz and his partner and pastry chef Pamela Yung’s 18-seat spot lacks in grandeur, it makes up for with an ambitious and inventive set menu. For $75, you receive ten works of art. I’m not exaggerating. Each visit featured several dishes that I didn’t know whether to eat or simply admire (the sliced, roasted, and reassembled carrots were an Instagram slam dunk). Meat plays a supporting role—think radish with a whipped foie gras dip—while workhorse vegetables like onion, celery, and potato are given star turns, prepared in ways that…

IDISLIKE BRUNCH. Actually, check that—I loathe brunch. It’s not just the gloppy eggs Benedict, it’s the entire concept. I mean, why wait in line with a bunch of Yelping strangers out for bottomless mimosas when I could make most of the food better at home? And then Milktooth happened. Now I’ve got egg on my face. How did this place, housed in a light-filled former garage, make me a believer? For starters, Milktooth goes all-in, exuberantly serving brunch—and only brunch—six days a week, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. It’s not an afterthought, it’s their only thought. The servers, judging by their smiles, are all morning people. (Damn them.) Maybe they’re dipping into some of Milktooth’s no fewer than 25 house cocktails. But it was chef Jonathan Brooks’s menu—including a…

IT’S TIME TO START WEARING AN APRON Apron fever took hold this year, with statement pieces in everything from tie-dye to denim. Tilit made these for the staff at NYC tasting-menu spot Contra, and now you can buy them. The waxed cotton stands up to spills and splashes but is lightweight enough to keep cool. Contra Apron; tilitchefgoods.com HOURS OVER A STOVE DON’T EXACTLY COUNT AS A FACIAL The heat and grease of a restaurant demands some skin TLC. Angela Dimayuga (see previous page) swears by this rose toner for hydration and revitalization. Gypsy Rose Toner; poppy andsomeday.com IT’S IN THE BAG Would you head to work without putting the finishing touch on your outfit? Kitchen pro Paul Qui of Qui in Austin doesn’t, either. Big enough to hold his…

JESSE HOUSTON SALTINE , JACKSON, MS “On nights off, I’ll make my version of ramen for the family. It evolved over time to be a mash-up of ingredients common to Japanese (hon-dashi), Korean (kimchi), and Southern (smoked turkey wings) cooking. I don’t use ramen noodles: Spaghetti actually holds up really well in the broth.” Ramen with Smoked Turkey Broth ACTIVE 45 MIN - TOTAL 1 HR 30 MIN 4 SERVINGS BROTH 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 6 garlic cloves, peeled 1 lemongrass stalk, tough outer layers removed, chopped 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, sliced ½ jalapeno, sliced 1 handful cilantro stems 2 lb. smoked turkey wings 1 Tbsp. (or more) hon-dashi (bonito stock powder) 1 Tbsp. (or more) soy sauce SOUP AND ASSEMBLY 2 baby bok choy,…

ANNIE WAYTE WHITE HART INN, SALISBURY, CT “I love the combination of spices in this compote, but if you don’t have these exact ones, just go with the flow of whatever you have in your house—and don’t be shy. You’ll be surprised how well the sweetness of the compote pairs with a rich, fatty meat like duck or pork.” Apple and Peach Compote ACTIVE 35 MIN - TOTAL 35 MIN 4 SERVINGS 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, each cut into 8 wedges 2 ripe peaches, each cut into 8 wedges 2 Tbsp. sugar ¼ tsp. ground cardamom ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon ¼ tsp. ground ginger ¼ tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ cup apple cider 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Toss apples, peaches, sugar, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger,…

GALANGAL-BRAISED PORK BELLY WITH TROUT ROE P.117 AT AL’S PLACE, an unassuming 46-seat restaurant on a sleepy corner of San Francisco’s otherwise buzzing Mission District, things can get complicated. Consider the french fries: First, large new potatoes, grown for the restaurant, are passed through a fry cutter. Then they are brined for 96 hours in 68-degree water that has been inoculated with salt and cabbage leaves to accelerate fermentation. Next, they’re fried for about five minutes at 325 degrees in rice bran oil. Finally, when an order comes in, they are fried again at 375 degrees for exactly one minute. They are served with a smoked apple barbecue sauce whose creation is equally involved. I had no idea about all of this when I first bit into them. All I…

Try this at home! Find the recipe at bonappetit.com/hot10 “THIS IS NOT YOUR GRANDMOTHER’S BIBIMBAP. WE’RE TAKING A HUMBLE DISH AND MAKING IT MORE THOUGHTFUL AND EXCITING.” —BEVERLY KIM IM USUALLY A LITTLE more disciplined, but I didn’t stand a chance against that bing bread. The second order seemed like the right move, until it wasn’t. Don’t get me wrong: I’d do it again. Parachute’s crispy, greasy-in-just-theright-way, pancake-like bread, loaded with potato, bacon, and scallion and served with sour-cream butter for slathering, was easily the most addictive thing I ate all year. Johnny Clark and Beverly Kim’s modern Korean-American restaurant is the latest of the Avondale neighborhood’s overachieving, no-nonsense spots. Sit at the long concrete table and start with the house pickles paired with a slightly fizzy pét-nat wine from…

ON MY FIRST VISIT to Rintaro, I basically spent the night. I drank ice-cold Asahi beers, snacked on yakitori made from every part of the chicken, and gazed at the smoke rising from grills in the open kitchen. Maybe I was missing the experience that I’d had a few weeks earlier on a trip to Tokyo. Maybe it was those last sips of sake. But I had a visceral reaction to the place. A month later, I returned to chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett’s izakaya. This time it was with a clear head and lots of questions. Turns out there’s a story everywhere you look at Rintaro. The space—think Shinto shrine meets tree house—was built by Brackett’s father using ancient craftsmanship. That bar I’d been holding up? It was hewn from…

LEMON OMANI (DRIED BLACK LIMES) Sun-dried limes lend a subtle sour-bitter note when added whole to a curry. They can also be powdered and dusted over everything from salads to rice for a unique brightness. ($5 for 3 oz.; kalustyans.com) To Swap or Not? The Gluten-Free Flour Question Not every baked good can handle a cup-for-cup sub with one of those miraculoussounding allpurpose glutenfree flour blends. So when can you swap? Our test kitchen has learned that any wet, sugary batter can take a gluten-free mix and leave no one the wiser. (For the record, we love those from Bob’s Red Mill, Cup4Cup, and King Arthur.) But when structure and texture are at stake? That’s going to need a whole new recipe. Use this cheat sheet. —BELLE CUSHING DO IT!…

SEE OUR HOT 10, PAGE 109 1 Where’s the Beet? Vegetables are no stranger to the spotlight these days. The latest MVP? The humble beet, which can do anything that pork, chicken, or beef can do. 2 ROPE ’EM IN The obvious way to anchor a nautical theme? Knotted boating line, used to decorate dining spaces (and, yes, to occasionally wrap too-hot-to-lean-on radiator pipes) at seafood-heavy spots like Lupulo in NYC and Sink | Swim in Chicago. 3 Supermarket Sweep Are we in a restaurant or a Costco aisle? Chefs are making magic with some of the world’s least sexy ingredients. BUTTON MUSHROOMS Spotted at: Aldine in Philadelphia, thinly sliced raw, sheltering beef medallions BOURSIN Spotted at: Helm in Philadelphia, stepping in for goat cheese in a salad with beets and peppers…

THE BREAK-UP At home, slice through any meringue, nestle it on a bed of whipped cream, and add berries. Shattered Pavlova! the PRO JESUS PEREA Cosme / NYC The Most Instagrammed Dessert of the Year almost wasn’t. When Cosme pastry chef Jesus Perea made a batch of corn husk meringues, they came out of the oven broken, creating a jagged canyon destined to be filled with corn cream. THE YIN & YANG the PRO ZACH POLLACK Alimento / Los Angeles Pollack shifts the center of gravity, swiping his Marsala-spiked chicken liver mousse along one side of the plate, bringing it right up to the edge. The asymmetrical structure anchors the dish—and has a dramatic look. SWITCH IT UP Create a similar effect with softened butter or labneh. Spoon the ingredient…

Rosemary-Concord Shrub Bring 1 cup Concord grapes, ⅓ cup sugar, and ½ cup water to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until reduced to ½ cup, 10–12 minutes. Strain grape syrup and let cool. For each cocktail, place 4 rosemary leaves, 2 oz. vodka, 1 oz. grape syrup, and . oz. apple cider vinegar in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Cover and shake until shaker is frosty, about 30 seconds. Strain into a rocks glass filled with ice; add 2–3 oz. club soda. Makes 4 Black Grape Compote Bring 2 star anise pods, 3 cups seedless black grapes, ⅓ cup sugar, . cup fresh lemon juice, and a pinch of salt to a boil in a large skillet, stirring to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally,…

BRIAN LUSCHER LUSCHER’S RED HOTS, DALLAS “You don’t have to buy dry-aged Wagyu to have a good piece of meat! Just take a nice, flavorful cut and season it up. This dry rub is something I’ve been tinkering with since blackening was a craze back in the ’80s: It loves beef, and beef loves it back. Use it on ribs, skirt steak—even pork chops.” Dry-Rubbed Flank Steak with Grilled Corn Salsa ACTIVE 40 MIN - TOTAL 50 MIN 4 SERVINGS DRY RUB 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. ancho chile powder 1 Tbsp. paprika 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 tsp. granulated garlic 1 tsp. English mustard powder ½ tsp. ground coriander ½ tsp. ground cumin STEAK AND SALSA 2…

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: One 3¼"-diameter cutter, one 1¼"-diameter cutter, a deep-fry thermometer Matcha Doughnuts MAKES 8 ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 ¾ tsp. baking powder ¾ tsp. kosher salt 2 cups cake flour, plus more for surface 1 large egg ½ cup buttermilk 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Vegetable oil (for frying; about 4 cups) Matcha Sugar Topping, Sweet Matcha Powder, or Matcha Glaze (see instructions, left) Whisk granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, and 2 cups flour in a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add egg, buttermilk, and butter. Using a wooden spoon or a spatula, gradually incorporate dry ingredients until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and knead a couple of times or so until no wet spots remain (be careful…

FROM MY SEAT, I swear I can see the Eiffel Tower. There are half-drunk bottles of Burgundy on the bar and classic French dishes like steak au poivre, escargots, and jambon chablisienne on the menu. The s’il vous plaîts and mercis are flying. But I’m not in Paris. I’m in a strip mall in Hollywood—next door to a place called Yum Yum Donuts. And that Eiffel Tower view? Bof. I’m looking out at a 76 gas station. Still, I feel transported. Such is the power of Gallic chef Ludo Lefebvre’s sardine-size (just 22 counter seats) love letter to Parisian bistros. There’s marble on the bar, mirrors on the walls, and globe lights hanging from the ceiling; he’s added French hip-hop and a list of cocktails heavy on the pastis. The…

YOGURT-MARINATED GRILLED CHICKEN plain whole-milk yogurt, ¼ cup vinegar-based hot sauce (such as Crystal), 4 finely chopped garlic cloves, 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, and ½ tsp. garam masala in a large resealable plastic bag. Add 1 Dai Due’s Master Brined Chicken (see recipe page 142), backbone removed, and turn to coat. Seal bag, pressing out air; chill chicken 8–24 hours. Prepare grill for medium heat; lightly brush grate with vegetable oil. Remove chicken from marinade, wiping off any excess, and grill, skin side down, until skin is lightly charred and releases from grate without tearing, 10–15 minutes. Give bird a quarter turn and continue to grill until skin is nicely charred and crisp and thighs are starting to…

BACK OF THE NAPKIN NANCY MEYERS Director Nancy Meyers spends six months in an editing room fine-tuning her movies—and eating out of plastic containers. “We eat takeout for lunch and dinner six nights a week. I get so sick of it,” says the mastermind behind films like It’s Complicated and Something’s Gotta Give. It’s no surprise then that mealtime is an event when she’s in civilization, including lunches at New York’s ABC Cocina while filming The Intern (in theaters September 25). And then there was the cast and crew dinner at Nobu Malibu to celebrate the film’s wrap. “Everybody kept saying, ‘Look at these real plates! We have actual forks!’” she recalls. The only thing she never lacks on set: dessert. “The director’s chair has pockets where you’re supposed to…