Indholdsfortegnelse for December 2012 i Bon Appetit

THE BACK-AND-FORTH: LATKE EDITION Sure, we love sharing our opinions about food (maybe you noticed?), but what fun is a one-way conversation? Thankfully, there's Twitter. “Working on the December issue. I’m just gonna say it—the key to great latkes: schmaltz. What else you guys got?” @rapo4 Adam Rapoport, editor in chief, Bon Appétit Cast iron is king (@johnjannuzzi John Jannuzzi, contributing editor, Lucky magazine Carrots, zucchini (though grt) don’t belong. (@lmennies Leah Mennies, food editor, Boston magazine Prosciutto, for the lapsed. Or parsnip. @cettedrucks Charlotte Druckman, author of Skirt Steak Pretty sure cast iron makes every-thing better. @rapo4 Totally agree. I can’t take “creative” latkes. @rapo4 Once did a latke cook-off at Beard House and a woman fried hers in bacon fat. So not fair! @rapo4 Amateurs. #oneoniontotwopotatoesplentyofsalteggandmatzomealfriedinpeanutoil (@kitchensense Mitchell Davis, executive vice president,…

SUGAR RUSH Go beyond candy canes this season with colorful retro treats from boutique makers LICORICE COINS Salty coins for true licorice fans. $15 per pound; thecandystoresf.com CINNAMON PILLOWS Spicy drops in holiday-appropriate hues. $5 for 30; Papabubble, 212-966-2599 MICHEL CLUIZEL SARDINES Go fish, in milk chocolate. $15 for five; atthemeadow.com CARAMELS Buttery squares in unusual flavors. $15 for 12; truffletruffle.com LICORICE SCOTTIES These sweet pups have a fun bite. $13 per pound; dylanscandybar.com LOLLIPOPS Flecked with bacon, hot pepper, or spices. From $5 for four; roni-sue.com LA-DEE-DAHS Swirled nougat, caramel, and chocolate. $6.50/2.25 oz.; whimsicalcandy.com HEAVENLY SOURS Chewy, bite-sized fruit sours. From $4.50; sugarfina.com RASPBERRY CANDIES Drops that taste like sweet ripe berries. $5 for 30; Papabubble, 212-966-2599 SUNDAE MALT BALLS A malt ball impersonating an ice cream sundae.…

WE’RE ALL FOR CREATIVITY, but when it comes to our favorite party cocktails, we’ll take the simple ones our grandparents sipped. We’re not above a little tinkering, though. For each of these traditional drinks, we’ve got three easy upgrades—showstopper glassware, a bottle of booze, and an unexpected twist—that’ll have you sipping in a whole new way. Remember, deliciousness is in the details. 1 MANHATTAN MAKES 1 Combined ¼ cup rye whiskey, 2 Tbsp. sweet vermouth, and 2 dashes Angostura bitters in a glass filled with ice. Stir until outside of glass is very cold. Strain into a Nick & Nora glass; garnish with 1 cherry.* *THE TWIST: These plump, boozy, nottoo-sweet cherries elevate the world’s best drink. Barker & Mills Bourbon Vanilla Cocktail Cherries, $12/9 oz.; thebostonshaker.com THE GLASS: Nick &…

MARCH SAN FRANCISCO “Josh Vogel lets the raw material guide the direction of his hand-carved maple tools, so each piece is unique. Their unusual shapes make them beautiful objects as well as functional kitchen utensils.” -Sam Hamilton, owner Blackcreek Mercantile & Trading Co. kitchen tools, $85-$W; 415-931-7433 TORTOISE GENERAL STORE VENICE, CA “Thanks to its essential function and simple, natural shape, this brass bottle opener has a timeless beauty anyone can take pleasure in.” -Keiko Shinomoto, co-owner Bottle openers, $40-$65; tortoisegeneralstore.com POD BOSTON “For the holidays, I’ll use designer Yumiko Sekine’s linens to wrap up homemade granola or jam-they’re the perfect hostess gift.” -Julie Baine, founder Fog Linen kitchen cloth, $16; shop-pod.com KIOSK NEW YORK “This sugar bowl is made by a family-owned factory in Portugal. I love the fin-shaped…

WORK IN SHIFTS SLICE ONLY HALF OF THE TENDERLOIN TO START. IT’LL LOOK ITS BESTL AND STAY WARM. THE MENU Shrimp Cocktail Roast Beef Tenderloin with Horseradish Cream Garlic-Oregano Knots Kir Royale EVERYONE HAS THEIR OWN Christmas style. Maybe you’re a dress-the-dog-like-Santa person. Maybe you celebrate with a small group. Or maybe you take that whole “the more the merrier” thing to heart. No matter the size of your guest list, this decadent buffet is festive, relaxed, and a great excuse to drink just a little too much. Hosting ten? Follow the recipes as is. Invited 20 or 30? See our tips on scaling up. Shrimp Cocktail ACTIVE 45 MINUTES TOTAL 45 MINUTES 8-10 SERVINGS Poaching shrimp in their shells seals in the flavorful juices. If you’re short on time, use…

i WANT TO TELL YOU about the plump goose I roast every year for the holidays. I want to close my eyes and remember that shatteringly crisp, caramel-dark skin and those comforting muscle-memory rituals of tying, basting, and carving that help mark the passing of yet another calendar cycle and chase the December chill from my kitchen with the soul-stabilizing aromas of the familiar. The problem is that no such goose exists. Not, at least, for me. You see, I am a man without traditions. Oh, there are holiday meal dates that I try to keep every year. There’s the Boxing Day boys’ lunch at Peter Luger that’s often serially rescheduled into slushy mid-March. There’s the gang of old friends who for many years have commandeered a flotilla of tables…

BEURRE & SEL JAMMERS p.95 POOPSITE: Tucker designer Gaby Basora, in one of her favorite fedoras, welcomed friends to her West Village home, then dressed them in her fall and holiday collections. LA VIE EN ROBE: Ballet Beautiful founder Mary Helen Bowers (left) chats with Basora’s sister, film producer Zoe Potkin. CRUNCH BARS p.95 MERVEILLES p.96 WHEN DORIE MET GABY To say that Dorie Greenspan has a cult following is an understatement: There are “Tuesdays with Dorie” groups that cook their way through her books, such as Baking: From My Home to Yours and Baking with Julia (as in Child). And her new Manhattan cookie boutique, Beurre & Sel, has lines out the door. So it’s not surprising that she’s a fan of the fashion label Tucker, which has its…

Some workhorses will never go out of style in the BA Test Kitchen. And then there are fresh spins on old reliables that are well worth a try. Here’s a list of our all-time favorites—and the new standards that share space on our shelves beside them. 7. GRAPESEED OIL BEL ARIA* ($5.50/17 OZ.) The high smoke point of grapeseed oil makes it ideal for sautéing—ask any pro chef. And unlike olive oil, it has a neutral flavor that doesn’t overwhelm in vinaigrettes. We selected Bel Aria for its clean taste and not-too-heavy texture. 8. OLIVE OIL LUCINI PREMIUM SELECT EXTRA VIRGIN ($15.99/500ML) Made from hand-pressed Tuscan-grown olives, this is a great midpriced everyday oil for cooking and drizzling. A nice peppery note reminds you it’s there without stealing the show. 9. FISH…

APPLEBERRY SHRUB Vinegar is the key ingredient in the tart, refreshing beverages known as shrubs. Make the concentrate: Bring 1 pint fresh (or frozen, thawed) raspberries, blueberries, and/or blackberries, 1½ cups Bragg Organic Raw Unfiltered Apple Cider Vinegar, and ¼ cup sugar to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat; remove from heat. Steep for 30 minutes for berries to release their juices. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a glass jar, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Cover; chill until cold. DO AHEAD: Concentrate can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled. MAKES 2 CUPS (16 SERVINGS) For 1 serving, fill a 12-oz. glass with ice; add 2 Tbsp. concentrate. Top with⅓ cup club soda. Gently stir to blend. 35. CIDER VINEGAR BRAGG…

COVER Speculoos Buttons p. 96 APPETIZERS Candied Nuts with Smoked Almonds p. 82 Dan Roman’s Buttery Roasted Chestnuts in Foil p. 104 Grandma Flaxel’s Crispy Fried Oysters p. 104 Greek Yogurt Labneh p. 114 Pigs in Sleeping Bags p. 110 Shrimp Cocktail p. 52 Tandoori Cauliflower p. 20 BEVERAGES/COCKTAILS Apple-Berry Shrub p. 113 Bill Heck’s Old Fashioned p. 104 Kir Royale p. 54 Manhattan p. 32 Moscow Mule p. 32 Mulled Wine p. 85 Whiskey on the Rock p. 32 SALAD Citrus Salad with Fried Rosemary and Olives p. 83 SOUPS Roasted Carrot Soup with Dukkah Spice and Yogurt p. 44 Scott DeSimon’s Lobster Stew p. 104 BREAD Garlic-Oregano Knots p. 54 Nutmeg and Black Pepper Popovers p. 78 MAIN COURSES FISH Oven-Roasted Flounder with Bok Choy, Cilantro, and Lime…

THE GREAT BA TASTE TEST THE MOST MEMORABLE GIFTS aren’t always the biggest, and they don’t always come wrapped in shiny paper. Instead, they’re often the ones you end up using week in, week out for the rest of your life. That’s the philosophy behind the Bon Appétit Seal of Approval, which makes its debut in this issue. The seal identifies those products that the cooks in our test kitchen can’t do without (and, frankly, neither should you), from the finest baking chocolate—cocoa powder and bars—to the addictively funky condiment that every modern-minded cook should keep on hand. (Hint: It’s from Vietnam.) Contributing editor Jenny Rosenstrach, co-author of our family-cooking column, The Providers, was tasked with editing the seal feature. And, as is the case with most projects we embark…

1 GET A LEG UP Serving a whole bone-in harm may seem ambitious, but trust us: You'll be a hero to your meat-eating friends-at least 30 of them! Amercian country harm and prosciutto are great, but we're parital to the Spanish variety. Fermin mountain-cured Serrano ham, 16-18 lb., $325; latiendo.com 2 TAKE A STAND You'11 need a proper wooden stand like this one to anchor the leg for slicing. In the event you have leftovers, store the ham in its holder in a cool, dry place for several weeks. Here’s how: Cover ham with a kitchen towel or cheese-cloth. Wide off any mold with a cloth dipped in vegetable oil. Swivel-grip jamón holder with knife, $199; latienda.com 3 SLICE IT RIGHT Arm yourself with the right knife-and a little slicing…

KINA L’AVION DOR Dress up any liquor cabinet with an opulent orange-scented aperitif. Serve over ice, garnished with a strip of orange peel. $31/750ml; tempusfugitspirits.com for stores RUSS & DAUGHTERS AMERICAN CAVIAR The Russ & Daughters logo is a New York icon, and their caviar tin lends a luxe touch to any party. We love the roe from sustainably raised California sturgeon. $235/125g: russanddaughters.com MARBLEIZED BAR All the wrappers this chocolate company puts out are gorgeous, but this handmade marbled paper is stocking-worthy. $6/1.5-oz. bar; chocolate-editions.com PASTICCERIA MARABISSI PANFORTE Panforte, a chewy dried-fruit-and-nut cake, is great with cheese-if you can bear to tear the fancy wrapper. $31/12.35-oz. cake; marxfoods.com ALMDUDLER LIMONADE Who could resist sparkling lemonade in a quaint can? It’s the only six-pack that belongs on your holiday gift list.…

For Ruben and Isabel Toledo, there’s no line between work and play—or fashion and art. She designs clothes, he’s an artist, and their holiday gift list is one we’d kill to be on Your friends are great cooks. What’s your go-to spot for culinary gifts? RUBEN TOLEDO: I’d walk for miles to get to ' Kalustyan’s on Lexington Avenue in Manhattan, especially to stock up on their fig jam. Any favorite shops away from home? RT: When we travel, we find treasures everywhere: a Japanese hardware store, a Mexican pottery shop, a baking store in France. The world is a bazaar. What do you look for at baking stores? ISABEL TOLEDO: I love giving a collection of baking molds. I put them together like a puzzle. What edible gifts do…

WE HAVE A D . I . Y . HOLIDAY tradition at Canal House. Early in December, we set aside a few days to make gifts for our friends and families. I n past years we’ve cranked out jars of marmalade and preserved lemons, crocks of country pâté, and elegant sugar cookies. This year, we landed on three flavors we adore, hopefully resulting in gifts that the recipients will use for weeks to come: our own teriyaki sauce; a mustard based on a Hirsheimer family recipe; and a homemade version of Nutella. By the time we’re finished, the side table in our studio’s kitchen will be filled with bottles and jars, all lined up with their handwritten labels and tags on them. Everyone who comes to the studio during the…

The weather outside may be frightful, but inside it’s delightful, thanks to a table filled with rustic yet celebratory comfort food. Roasted Fresh Ham with Citrus + Rye NUTMEG AND BLACK PEPPER POPOVERS MAKES 12 For an intensified flavor, substitute duck fat for the melted butter. Whisk 2 cups all-purpose flour, 2 Tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, and 1 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg in a medium bowl. Whisk 3 large eggs and VA cups whole milk in a large bowl until well blended. Gently whisk in flour mixture, followed by 3 Tbsp. melted unsalted butter (do not overmix). DO AHEAD: Batter can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Preheat oven to 425°. Melt 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter; grease…

MAINE LOBSTER STEW P. 104 “Simpler and richer than a chowder, lobster stew celebrates Maine’s state ‘bug’ when it’s freezing outside and summer clambakes are a long way off. The cold winters come in handy for prep, too: The dish is even better if it sits awhile on a chilly back porch.” —Scott DeSimon, SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR “If I failed to serve a roast beast for Christmas dinnerin this case, flavored with a garlicky tapenade made from both green and black olives-the shaming I would be subjected to is simply too much for this mom to take.” -Janet Taylor McCracken, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR CRISPY FRIED OYSTERS P.104 “I eat a lot of oysters, but my grandma’s recipe, which we make every Christmas, is still my favorite. I credit that to…

21. CANNED BEANS GOYA ($1.19/15.5 OZ.) When you don’t have time (or forget!) to fix dried beans from scratch, reach for Goya. Whatever variety you prefer, these beans are tender, reliable time-savers. TURN IT INTO DINNER: Warm a can of chickpeas with sautéed onions and diced tomatoes; serve on garlic-rubbed toasts. 22. TUNA (PACKED IN OIL) WHOLE FOODS 365 WILD TUNA ALBACORE* ($2.99/5 OZ.) The oil adds flavor and richness, lending a luxe touch to the tuna. TURN IT INTO DINNER: Drain and mix with parsley, radicchio, and cooked white beans. 23. TUNA (PACKED IN WATER) CROWN PRINCE SOLID WHITE ALBACORE ($3.49/5 OZ.) Tuna that’s packed in water is a bare canvas, so you can personalize it with the flavors you like. This is our favorite for its firm-buttender texture…

They’re game-changers and umami-boosters, adding a can’t-put-my-finger-on-why-this-is-so-good factor to soups, sauces, sandwiches, and stir-fries. Best of all, with their long shelf life, they’re always there when you need them. 47. ANCHOVIES ORTIZ EL VELERO ($5.99/47.5G) Filleted and packed by hand in Spain, these anchovies deliver saline complexity, a rosy hue, and the highly coveted trait known as “drapeability,” meaning they won’t fall apart (for those who like to eat ’em whole). TRY THEM: Finely chop and add to vinaigrettes or stuffings, or simply toss with breadcrumbs, oil, and garlic to mix with pasta, where they add complexity, not fishiness. CLASSIC CAESAR DRESSING Using the side of a sturdy knife (or a mortar and pestle), mash 1 small garlic clove and a pinch of kosher salt until reduced to a paste.…

Seth Meyers They say all comedians have their vices, and Saturday Night Live star and head writer Seth Meyers is no different—especially when it comes to holiday parties. “I go all out,” Meyers says. “My best state is 45 minutes in, when the first drink is hitting me and I’ve secretly got three in the bank.” Eating is a bit more complicated: “I love cheese plates. Though I actually hate cheese plates. Because I can’t say no to them.” As for choosing a wingman, the approach is simple: “Look for someone in the same energy zone as you. I used to hang out with Andy Samberg. So now I’m looking at the new guys, to figure out who’s worthy. Because I’m really fun. My only regret is there’s not another…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, MY SISTER AND I HAVE EATEN COQ AU VIN IN PARIS, BUT SHE SWEARS THE VERSION AT BISTRO ZINC IN LENOX, MA, WAS BETTER. I WOULD LOVE THE RECIPE. TERESA SIMAS, Stoughton, MA COQ AU VIN 5-6 SERVINGS Wild mushrooms add depth of flavor to this take on the French classic. Make sure your bacon isn’t too smoky; it could overwhelm the dish. 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 5 skin-on, bone-in chicken legs (thigh and drumstick) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise into ⅓” slices 3 carrots, peeled, chopped 3 celery stalks, minced 1 onion, minced 4 cups dry red wine, such as Burgundy, divided ½ cup tomato paste 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth 12 sprigs thyme 6 sprigs rosemary 1 lb.…

DENIM SHOP APRON Pointer Brand has been producing clothing—right down to the fabrics, buttons, threads, labels, and zippers —in Tennessee for 100 years. $22; pointerbrand.com COASTERS These delightful paper disks are printed on a Victorian-era press. $14 for eight; sesameletterpress.bigcartel.com COLOR_BLOCKED CUTTING BOARD The Lostine company of Philadelphia makes cutting boards from Pennsylvania sycamore. $248; anthropologie.com SLICER WITH OLIVE-WOOD HANDLE Houston bladesmith Russell Montgomery forges the custom-made knives for Oxheart, one of our Best New Restaurants of 2012. $300; serenityknives.com IZOLA CANDLES Until your spring herb garden returns, light one of these hand-poured vegetable-wax candles for an olfactory reminder. $35; izola.com CLASSIC TIN CUP The tin cup made by Jacob Bromwell, Inc., is so iconic that the town of Tincup, Colorado, was named after it. $27; jacobbromwell.com TWINE Traditional red-and-white…

1 OYSTERS AT YOUR DOORSTEP Thanks to an American oyster renaissance (and next-day shipping), it’s never been easier to transform your kitchen into a raw bar. Island Creek Oysters from Massachusetts are briny crowd-pleasers; plan for six per person. $84 for 36, $150 for 100; island creekoysters.com 2 SHUCK ’EM LIKE A PRO Learning to open bivalves requires nothing more than the right tool (like a good oyster knife), a little elbow grease, and our step-by-step guide (visit bonappetit/go/oysters). Dexter-Russell Sani-Safe Oyster Knife, $20; surlatable.com 3 LOVE FOR THE GLOVE We’re not going to lie: Accidents can happen. Protect your oyster-holding hand with a medieval-looking stainless-steel mesh glove. It’s way cooler than getting stitches. Savoir Vivre Oyster Glove, $150; cooking.com 4 HOLIDAY ON ICE Oysters are alive, so keep them cold.…

FAST, EASY, FRESH Take a break from the holiday gluttony with light and bright weeknight meals that won’t tip the scales Roasted Squash with Lemon-Tahini Sauce ACTIVE20 MINUTES TOTAL 40 M INUTES 6 SERVINGS Browned edges mean great flavor for this side. If the squash hasn’t browned, roast it a little longer. 1 small kabocha squash or large acorn squash (1 lb.), scrubbed, cut into V-thick wedges, seeded 1 1-lb. delicata squash, scrubbed, cut into V-thick wedges or rings, seeded 7 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1½ tsp. cumin seeds, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 4 scallions, cut into 2" pieces 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. tahini (sesame seed paste) Aleppo pepper or crushed red pepper flakes INGREDIENT INFO: Tahini is available at Middle Eastern markets, natural foods…

TREASURE BEACH, a rural community on Jamaica’s remote southwest coast, isn’t on the resort circuit, and it’s content to stay that way. Fishermen row wooden dories along the reef; goats graze behind driftwood fences on the arid plains; children play soccer on the shore. A boho-chic crowd (one part Brooklyn, one part Euro holiday) bypasses Montego Bay and Negril for the biennial literary festival here. Visitors like vacationing world-music stars and neo-beat poets spend their days traipsing between low-key beaches and kicked-back cafés and restaurants, where just-caught fish and made-to-order jerk barbecue are the attractions. After dark, dancehall queens and bingo sharks rule the rum bars, but the reggae is never too loud to drown out the surf. As Jamaicans like to say, it’s a chill spot. FISH AND TRIP…

I got my latke recipe from my mom, Maxine Rapoport, who got it from her mom, who, I’m pretty sure, got it from her mom. So I guess you could say it’s a family heirloom. But when I moved to New York and began hosting my own Hanukkah dinners, I started toying with it. I wondered if I could get the latkes even crispier on the outside, and more flavorful. I did my research. My good friend Mitchell insisted that the key to great .favor lay in the onion-to-potato ratio, so I upped my Vidalia count. Good call: The onions introduced a subtle sweetness. I fried the pancakes in a mixture of schmaltz and vegetable oil because, well, chicken fat delivers taste. And I added a step that my mom…

BEST IF USED BY OUR LOYAL BA READERS When it comes to brands, you might say those of us at Bon Appetit are particular. We don’t bake brownies with just any chocolate, or sprinkle our eggs with just any salt. Rather, we choose the ingredients we use every day based on reliability flavor, and value (and, sure, sometimes they come in gorgeous packaging...). They’re so important to the way we cook that we decided to make it official—with a seal of approval. Used correctly, these 50 items will upgrade every aspect of your culinary life, guaranteed. A FEW NOTES ABOUT THE SEAL: 1. This is just the beginning. In addition to the 50 products on the list you’re about to read, more will be approved each year. 2. That means…

28. FLOUR KING ARTHUR ($4.99/5 LB.) The flour from this employee-owned company is the foundation-structurally sound and bromate-free—for all the baked-goods recipes we publish in our pages. We favor all-purpose for everything from chewy cookies to the brownies pictured above. In general, we stick with unbleached because, well, why add bleach to your baking when it’s completely unnecessary? Bonus: With this flour in the house, you’ve got what you need to make a roux or bread a cutlet. 29. BUTTER (BAKING & EVERYDAY) ORGANIC VALLEY ($5.69/1 LB.) Since unsalted butter is often the No. 1 or No. 2 most prominent ingredient when baking-meaning you could go through a pound at a time-use the best you can afford. It significantly enhances the flavor of everything from pound cake to pie crust.…

HOW TO ROCK YOUR LOBSTER 1. To remove the whole claw and knuckles: With one hand tightly holding the body, use your other hand to twist while pushing one claw at a time into the body. 2. With a twist of your wrists, separate the body of the lobster from the tail. Save the green tomalley (the liver) and the red or green roe for sauces or to enhance soups. 3. Crack the claws between the second and third spine with the back of a heavy chef’s knife. Twist the knife to separate the shell, allowing for easy access to the meat. 4. Pull back and break the “thumb” joint. Remove it, taking care to keep the cartilage attached to the shell. Remove meat by pulling it through base of…