Indholdsfortegnelse for March 2013 i Bon Appetit

FIND, FOLLOW, AND CONNECT WITH US ONLINE The Hashtag: Chef’s Choice On page 110, we name the 20 most important restaurants in America. But not everybody’s favorite made the list. Here’s what some well-known chefs had to say. #importantrestaurants ANITA LO chef at Annisa, NYC Next, Chez Panisse, & quietly, the misunderstood Jungsik [in Tribeca] for presenting new, globally influenced Korean #importantrestaurants CURTIS DUFFY chef at Grace, Chicago Atera in NYC, Saison in SF, Willows Inn on Lummi Island [WA] #importantrestaurants KRIS YENBAMROONG chef at Night + Market, Los Angeles @bacomercat, @statebirdsf, and @missionstfood (they are asking all the right questions) #importantrestaurants FLOYD CARDOZ chef at North End Grill, NYC Pok Pok, Portland (best Thai), Blue Hill Stone Barns (sustainable), Spago (consistency) are for me #importantrestaurants Hang Out with BA…

Tool and Dye WHEN I STARTED OUT AS A PASTRY COOK, my boss handed me a plastic Matfer bowl scraper. “The only tool you’ll ever need,” he said. It soon became an extension of my hand. It’s flexible enough to get every last drop of batter or whipped cream from a bowl, yet firm enough to cut through brownies, bread, or pasta doughs. I’ve since retired my restaurant apron, but I still use my scraper daily in the BA Test Kitchen—moving vegetables from cutting board to pot, cleaning mortars and pestles, portioning gnocchi. It may not be the only tool I’ve ever needed, but it’s definitely become my favorite. ($5.50; jbprince.com) CUSTOMIZE IT This scraper only comes in clear. But for fun, you can color it (like an Easter egg,…

Savory Pies...The End of Nose to Tail…Peachtree State EVOO… Lose the Stars…and More INGREDIENT OF THE MOMENT Nose-to-tail eating has finally reached its end—literally. Pig tails are my new favorite bar snack. They’re a cross between baby back ribs and chicken wings (in a good way), and in the past year I’ve eaten them smoked, barbecued, fried, braised, and even pickled from places as diverse as Night + Market in Los Angeles and Alla Spina in Philadelphia. 100-WORD RANT I love restaurant reviews, but I hate star ratings. How does a two-star spot compare to one-star? Fancier napkins? And why can’t a pizza joint receive four stars? The Los Angeles Times wisely ditched the system last year, saying, “Star ratings are increasingly difficult to align with the reality of dining.”…

Warm Cauliflower and Herbed Barley Salad ACTIVE 25 MINUTES TOTAL 35 MINUTES 4 SERVINGS We’re seeing gigante beans everywhere. They’re creamy and buttery, and their size adds a dramatic look. ½ cup pearled barley Kosher salt 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. mayonnaise 1 tsp. Dijon mustard 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided Freshly ground black pepper 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets 1 15-oz. can gigante, corona, or butter beans, rinsed ½ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, divided 2 Tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves, divided Place barley in a large saucepan; add water to cover by 2". Season with salt. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, 25–30 minutes. Drain; run under cold water. Set aside. Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, and…

IT WASN’T THE MEMORY of trade winds rustling palm fronds that brought me back. Or of buttery sand between my toes while watching a fiery sun hang above the Pacific. What got me on a plane to travel halfway around the world was the recollection of dense, pungent, freshly baked banana bread. For nearly a decade in the ’80s, I kept a home on Maui. I was living a hectic life in New York, but whenever I felt overrun by the world’s demands, I’d escape there. Maui was my haven, and my small hut beside the beach my sanctuary. They were simpler days (although they didn’t feel simple at the time), and back then, Maui was a simpler, more local place. Those days are gone, but they live in details…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL GRAYDON AND NIKOLE HERRIOTT RECIPES BY ALISON ROMAN GO BANANAS Most things taste better when mixed with sugar and spirits, and the bananas cooked with brown sugar and rye in these parfaits are no exception. Try them in one of these sweets: Pour into a prebaked pie crust and top with chocolate pudding for an incredible twist on banana cream pie. Spoon on top of French toast, waffles, or pancakes for your new favorite boozy brunch. Fold into softened vanilla ice cream, then refreeze until firm. You just whipped up bananas Foster ice cream. Make a simple shortcake: Split a biscuit in half and fill with caramelized bananas and whipped cream. Lemon-Buttermilk Bundt Cake 8–10 SERVINGS With a wonderfully moist interior beneath a crunchy crust and a…

1 MOMOFUKU: NYC AND POINTS BEYOND The Pork Bun that Launched a Thousand Imitators David Chang wasn’t the first to transform brussels sprouts from a side to a star. He wasn’t a pioneer when it came to playing any music he wanted, and loudly. Backless chairs and no tablecloths were nothing new. And his world-renowned pork buns? Chang admits he ripped those off. But Michael Jordan wasn’t the first guy to dunk, either. What Chang did was put it all together and turn a tiny East Village storefront into the most important restaurant brand of the past decade—on his own terms. Momofuku is fun, unexpected, and full of attitude (too bad if you want something served “on the side”). The food avoids easy categories, and it is always evolving. Pork…

I’LL TAKE THAT TO GO GREAT RESTAURANTS don’t just shape the way we eat; they shape the way we live. At least they do for my wife and me. Whenever Simone and I go out to dinner, we always end up walking away with some sort of inspiration—could be for a dish, could be for a decorating touch. And if you come to our place, it’s easy to spot what we’ve nicked. Those kitchen subway tiles lined with black grout? Thank you, Keith McNally, of Balthazar and Pastis fame. (Ditto for those striped kitchen towels that every bistro in America now uses as napkins.) When we entertain, Simone runs to the market for a bale of cherry or quince branches. For years, she arranged the towering centerpiece at Babbo, and…

CHICKPEA, FENNEL, AND CITRUS SALAD “Adding citrus segments takes chickpeas to another level. And I use the fennel bulb, stalks, and fronds in this dish so nothing goes to waste.” —Sue Li, recipe developer Cut peel and pith from 1 grapefruit and 1 lemon; cut between membranes to release segments. Squeeze juice from membranes into a medium bowl; whisk in 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss in citrus, one 15-oz. can chickpeas (rinsed, coarsely chopped), 1 thinly sliced fennel bulb and stalks, and a handful of fennel fronds. 4 servings For a guide to breaking down fennel, see Prep School, page 122. CHICKPEA-YOGURT DIP “Yogurt lightens this riff on hummus. It’s fantastic with pita chips or crudités.” —Chris Morocco, associate food editor…

Cocktail hour at home doesn’t have to mean a glass of Merlot or a bottle of beer. Bring some next-level mixology (yes, we said “mixology”) to your domestic game with our guide to choice gear, pro techniques, and new-school ingredients GO ALL IN THE PORTHOLE Chef Grant Achatz uses this stunning 13-ounce infuser at Aviary in Chicago. It allows combinations of booze, juice, herbs, and fresh fruit to meld as you gradually decant from it. $99; crucialdetail.com Boulevardier Combine 2 oz. bourbon, 1 oz. Campari, and 1 oz. sweet vermouth (preferably Antica Formula) in a large mixing glass filled with ice. Stir until glass is very cold, about 1 minute. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe or a rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Garnish with a lemon…

IMAGINE IF YOUR OFFICE pantry had a professional-grade espresso maker and a popcorn popper instead of a perpetually broken vending machine. Or if the company cafeteria served beer-braised short ribs and roast black rock cod with heirloom-tomato relish instead of soggy turkey sandwiches. As if Google perks like nap pods and on-site masseuses didn’t already stoke your envy, the tech giant has reinvented workday dining. Its offices in Mountain View, California, and Manhattan have more than 35 canteens offering fresh, delicious meals and hundreds of pantry-like “micro-kitchens” stocked with snacks and beverages (including Kind granola bars and Stumptown coffee). And it’s all free. Unlimited breakfast, lunch, dinner (for staffers burning the midnight oil), and snacks sounds like a recipe for the corporate version of the freshman 15. But it’s not.…

PEOPLE ARE BUZZING about Austin. Maybe you’ve heard them? The cool kids insisting that you’ve just got to check out South By Southwest, the ten-day music, film, and digital festival taking place this month. The outdoorsy kids stoked on its swimming holes, extensive running and biking trails, and warm temps year-round. And of course, the food kids. But they’re not just talking up its brisket and iconic tacos. These days, cult-status ramen, a stylish oyster bar, world-class sushi (see page 115), and modern Thai have many outside of the Lone Star State anointing Austin America’s next great food city. We’re guessing the kids wouldn’t disagree. THE NOODLE REVOLUTION Never enjoyed a proper bowl of ramen? Get to Ramen Tatsu-ya, the perpetually packed spot in a nondescript strip mall 15 minutes…

photographs by DITTEIS AGER CHARLOTTE SCOTT’S GRAND EXPERIMENT has turned out beautifully. When she and her then husband left their fashionable London life in the late ’70s to renovate an abandoned 16th-century villa near Seville, Spain, they had visions of raising children who could run wild in the Andalusian hills, entertaining themselves purely with their imaginations. Those four grown children are now creative and cultured, thank you. And Charlotte gradually transformed that ruin into one of the most elegant, low-key hotels in Europe—a place where society-page fixtures go to disappear, and the rest of us go to come to life. Surrounded by hundreds of acres of olive and orange groves, the whitewashed buildings make up a village in miniature. Charlotte, a decorator, turned that breathtaking home into a hotel in…

HONEY BUZZ FROM P. 92 Bees can turn nectar from just about any flower into honey, meaning there are many kinds to choose from. The three you’re most likely to find at the supermarket are clover, wild-flower, and orange blossom, and each has a distinct flavor profile. Here’s a rundown on how to put them to use. —JANET TAYLOR MCCRACKEN CLOVER Mild clover honey is a perfect all-around sweetener and won’t overwhelm the other ingredients in a dish. It’s great in everything from baked goods to salad dressings. WILDFLOWER The flavor of wildflower honey can vary widely depending on what flowers the bees were drawing nectar from. It can be somewhat assertive, so use it to glaze a smoked ham or to make a honey-mustard sauce. ORANGE BLOSSOM Not all…

DEAR BON APPÉTIT, WHAT’S THE SECRET TO MAKING THE FABULOUS BEET MARTINI AT THE DOGWOOD COCKTAIL CABIN IN CRESTED BUTTE, CO? —JOANNE M. KONRATH, Inverness, IL BEETNIK MARTINI 12 SERVINGS If juicing sounds too healthy for you, may we suggest adding booze? The beets turn the vodka a fantastic shade of pink, and ginger adds a flavorful kick. VODKA AND SYRUP 6 medium red beets (about 2½ lb.), scrubbed, trimmed 1 750-ml bottle vodka ¾ cup sugar 2 Tbsp. grated peeled ginger ASSEMBLY 3 oz. fresh lemon juice 3 oz. fresh lime juice 12 lemon slices VODKA AND SYRUP Cook beets in a large saucepan of boiling water until tender, 1–1 ¼ hours. Drain; let cool slightly. Peel and slice. Combine warm beets and vodka in a large 1½-qt. jar…

You think Hollywood starlets don’t eat? Try telling that to Aubrey Plaza—the sofrito-cooking, almond butter–loving, candy-hoarding star of Parks and Recreation You’re half Puerto Rican. Did you grow up cooking traditional food? It’d be a lie to say I “grew up cooking.” But I was around a lot of food. My grandmother has been trying to teach me the basics—sofrito and rice and beans. So what’s the secret to tasty rice and beans? Old-school, Goya Sazón–style seasoning. The kind you get in the back part of a shady Mexican grocery store. Are you confident in the kitchen? I turn into a crazy person. I have a glass of wine to get into a good state of mind. It ends up being an explosion. By the end, I’m covered in flour…

A BLACK GARDEN HOSE curled around his left foot, a thick braid of gold around his wrist, Peter Alexandre is doing that frightening Ginsu thing chefs do to hone their knives. But he’s no chef, and the knife, with its whiteplastic grip and brandless blade, is no chef’s knife. Alexandre is filleting American shad in a cinder-block room behind Crosby’s Seafood on Highway 17 in Charleston, South Carolina. This simple, workmanlike act makes him one of the last links to an American food tradition that stretches back hundreds of years. “Shad is so cheap,” says Alexandre, a hint of the islands in his voice. He’s referring to the silvery shad corpus on the white cutting board before him, not the fish’s roe (a favorite of high-end chefs up and down…

ACROSS THE COUNTRY, a new crop of chefs is reinventing Jewish delicatessen standbys. They’re serving smoked trumpet mushroom Reubens at Wise Sons in San Francisco, and you can order a celery soda cocktail at DGS Delicatessen in Washington, D.C. And if the shmear on your bagel can be made from local, grass-fed dairy, then your Passover menu deserves a touch of 2013, too. This year’s seder gets a revamp from chef Austin Zimmerman of Stopsky’s Delicatessen on Mercer Island, WA. “At the restaurant, we start with the standards,” he says, “then change the technique or ingredients to make a dish relevant to contemporary cooking.” Zimmerman does the same here, enlivening flanken-style short ribs with a flavor-packed chile paste, reimagining gefilte fish with whitefish that’s been smoked and fried, and giving…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY Gentl & Hyers On any given weeknight, there are approximately 17,000 things—from the math worksheet your nine-year-old needs help with to the poor dog begging to be walked—that can stand in the way of family dinner. We get that. Believe us, we get that. We have two daughters who were once babies and who basically made it their mission in life to mess with our evening routine. But somewhere along the line, we decided to take back family dinner. For us, eating together gives purpose to every day. It is our North Star, our article of faith, it had us at hello. It is a moment of decompression, a moment when four lives that have traveled, at light speed, in opposite directions since breakfast, can reconnect, become whole…

photographs by DITTE IS AGER COOK THE COVER CHICKEN KHAO SOI 6–8 SERVINGS A simple curry paste gives this northern Thai–inspired soup surprising depth of flavor. Recipe by Ravin Nakjaroen, Long Grain, Camden, ME KHAO SOI PASTE 4 large dried New Mexico or guajillo chiles, stemmed, halved, seeded 2 medium shallots, halved 8 garlic cloves 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, sliced ¼ cup chopped cilantro stems 1 Tbsp. ground coriander 1 Tbsp. ground turmeric 1 tsp. curry powder SOUP 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil 2 14-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, halved lengthwise 1 lb. Chinese egg noodles 3 Tbsp. (or more) fish sauce (such as nam pla or nuoc nam) 1 Tbsp. (packed) palm sugar or light brown sugar Kosher…

Whether she’s eating barbecue on President Obama’s jet, taking notes on Rush Limbaugh’s table manners, or learning George H. W. Bush’s family Martini recipe, New York Times columnist Maureen Dowd makes a living breaking bread with some of the most powerful people on the planet. Yet despite the illustrious company, Dowd’s personal appetites are decidedly less lofty. Lunch is often a salad at her desk, her freezer is stocked with little more than flavored vodka, and restaurant choices are anything but fussy. “My idea of a hideous night is going to Per Se, where they tell you about the cows that make their butter,” she says. Instead, she’ll opt for french fries (which she mentioned seven times during our interview), hot dogs (three mentions), or a really good minibar. And…