Indholdsfortegnelse for Feb-14 i Bon Appetit

COMMENTS GO NEXT-LEVEL Maybe you know that every recipe on our site has a “Your Comments & Suggestions” tab where you can give us feedback and share substitution ideas with fellow readers. But did you know you can also upload your photo of the finished dish? Simply click to add a pic from your desktop, Facebook, Instagram, or Flickr account. Hey, as far as we’re concerned, the more food photos on our site, the better. BATTLE OF THE CHILI BOWL Chili is the ultimate football food. We asked our Facebook fans to take sides: Beans or no beans? The Hashtag “Oysters and chocolate, we’re breaking up with you this year. What should our new Valentine’s Day foods be?” @bonappetit “Live uni in the shell. #seriously sensualfood.” @cimarustila Michael Cimarusti, chef…

Growing up. Baked Potato Night was an event. Every two weeks, my mom would let me stab three potatoes with a fork and rub them with Crisco. While they roasted, the skins would get crunchy and the insides as soft as goose down. Only four toppings were allowed: butter (the more, the better), sour cream (no thanks), and salt and pepper. It’s still the most satisfyingly simple meal I know. These days I toss the spuds in olive oil, Maldon sea salt, and freshly ground pepper before roasting them at 350 degrees for an hour or so. Sour cream still isn’t part of my program—just good butter and the occasional shower of hard cheese. Fancy meals come and go, but Baked Potato Night lives on.…

SALTED PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY BLONDIES “These are really peanut buttery and not too sweet, so the jam on top is a perfect complement.” —Claire Saffitz, assistant food editor Whisk together 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, 1 tsp. baking powder, and 1 tsp. kosher salt. Whisk together 2 large eggs, 11/2 cups light brown sugar, 3/4 cup smooth peanut butter, 1/2 cup melted unsalted butter, and 1 tsp. vanilla extract; fold in dry ingredients. Scrape batter into a buttered 8x8" baking pan. Dollop with 2 Tbsp. strawberry jam; top with 1 Tbsp. chopped honey-roasted peanuts. Bake at 350° until a tester comes out clean, 35-40 minutes. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Makes 16 GREEN PEANUT BUTTER SMOOTHIE “A vegan green smoothie with some depth: I love the subtle savory quality…

THE BOOZE CRUISE Thanks to a new bourbon program, beloved brown liquors pour like water at the genteel Engine Room Bar on the American Queen steamboat. Hitch a ride on its Bourbon & Bluegrass voyage and sip George T. Stagg and Elmer T. Lee while chugging along the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, visiting distilleries along the way. (americanqueensteamboatcompany.com) THE DAY TRIPPERS Cruise ships are designed to keep passengers endlessly entertained, but even die-hard mariners occasionally pine for terra firma. Enter the epicurean shore excursion. At cookbook author Yara Roberts’s cooking demo and dinner in Parati, Brazil, bookable via Azamara Journey, you learn how to make acarajé (blackeyed pea fritters) and other Brazilian street foods. Meanwhile, on the MS Volendam, travelers port at Australia’s Kangaroo Island for tours of Clifford’s Honey…

THE MONDAY AFTER YOUR SUPER BOWL PARTY, will your friends be talking about who won the game? Possibly. That “controversial” commercial? Most likely. And how about the chorizo-studded queso they inhaled by the chipful? Definitely. This addictive Tex-Mex staple, from chef Josef Centeno of Bar Amá in Los Angeles, will steal the spotlight, which is saying a lot considering what else is on tap for the evening: smoky fajitas, celery-spiked guacamole, and a tangy chile-lime cocktail. And, you know, football. Skirt Steak Fajitas with Grilled Cabbage and Scallions ACTIVE 40 MINUTES TOTAL 5 HOURS (INCLUDES MARINATING TIME) 8 SERVINGS The vegetables should still have plenty of bite when you pull them off the grill; you want a mix of textures between the tender steak, crisp toppings, and soft tortillas. STEAK…

The Ultimate make-Ahead Meal There’s a lot to love about stew. You do work on the front and back ends, but mostly the pot just simmers on the stove, making your house smell good. The result is a warm, comforting dinner—the perfect winter meal. But perhaps our favorite thing is how easy, even advisable, it is to make stew ahead. Like those classic dishes that taste better after resting (Bolognese, we’re looking at you), stew almost always benefits from time in the fridge. The flavors deepen as the liquid takes on more character, elevating each pot. That’s why these dishes, all of which can be cooked three days ahead, are ideal for a homey dinner party. They need just a reheat (be gentle—you don’t want to turn the tender ingredients…

TALKING CHOCOLATE Chocolate may be universally loved, but working with it can be confusing. (Dark? Bittersweet? Milk?) We asked Mast Brothers’ director of chocolate, Vesa Parviainen, to break down some common terms and ingredients. CACAO The name of the tree that produces the beans that are the base of chocolate. Cacao beans are transformed by fermentation and dried before processing. Each bean contains a rich nib (see below) and a thin shell called a husk. Note: Cacao and cocoa can be used interchangeably, but generally cocoa is used to describe processed cacao products. COCOA NIBS The foundation of chocolate, these have the look and crumbly consistency of roasted coffee beans (and make a great dessert garnish). All those good things about chocolate—antioxidants, vitamins, and yes, caffeine—are in here. COCOA POWDER…

Though open just six months a year, Spain’s El Bulli received an estimated two million reservation requests—only 8,000 of which were accepted. The restaurant closed in 2011, but its chef didn’t ride off into the sunset. Nope, Ferran Adrià is busy helping his brother, Albert, launch a fleet of eateries in Barcelona and working with his El Taller food lab to document what he describes as “the culinary world from the beginnings of humanity” (no small feat). And then there’s elBulli 2005–2011, his seven-volume, 750-recipe collection, out next month. The catalogue raisonné digs into some of El Bulli’s most influential years, charting its groundbreaking techniques and presentation. Cerebral stuff, for sure, but we’d expect no less from a man who once dreamed about making hot ice cream. “It’s impossible! It’s…

IT’S OKAY TO CHEAT THE FIRST THING I DO when I arrive at the office every Monday morning is ask my assistant, Amiel, what he got up to over the weekend. Amiel is 25, worked in a bar before taking this gig, and now lives in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn, with four roommates. Except Amiel never tells me about what bands he saw or clubs he went to; instead, he tells me what he cooked. There was the time he went to a butcher and bought some lamb heads so he could make tacos—which is not to be confused with the time he picked up some fish heads in Chinatown for a fish-cheek pasta sauce. I can relate to Amiel; I just can’t cook like he does. I’m 44, not 25. I’ve…

Skip the Kitsch “I do not decorate the house, and I’m not into team jerseys or the cakes and cupcakes shaped like footballs and goalposts. We all know we’re here to watch a football game.” Party Everywhere “It’s important to give people space to spread out—don’t crowd everyone in front of one TV. I have a 103-inch flat-screen in the main room, a TV in my kitchen, a TV in the backyard…” Chill in Margaritaville “I bought a Margarita machine at Costco. Not one of those little Jimmy Buffett ones, but like the big ones you see mixing horchata at Mexican restaurants. I fill that and set up a bar and a keg; it seems to suffice.” Teach the Kids to Gamble “I draw a grid on poster board and…

That’s what happens when you marry someone from Norway, which has 303 medals and counting. So, yes, this month I’ll be up at some ungodly hour to watch the winter games live from Sochi, and my wife, Christina, will make Norwegian waffles as part of her good-luck ritual. The kids like theirs topped with brown cheese, or brunost, but I take mine with crème fraîche and strawberry jam. It’s recipe gold. PASTA AMERICANA Pasta used to be a last-resort dinner—and then I discovered Baia (baiapasta.com), an artisanal company in Oakland that makes its dried pasta using organic U.S. flours like durum and spelt. Here, my favorites: ACCORDIONS Try them with creamy pesto sauce or in a pasta salad. MOHAWKS Perfect for macaroni and cheese. LILIES Great with chunky sauces like…

Winter Squash Carbonara with Pancetta and Sage ACTIVE 1 HOUR TOTAL 1 HOUR 4 SERVINGS Kabocha squash is made for purées. For more ways to cook winter squash, go to Prep School on page 111. 2 Tbsp. olive oil 4 oz. pancetta (Italian bacon), chopped 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh sage 1 2-lb. kabocha or butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into ½" pieces (about 3 cups) 1 small onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 12 oz. fettucine or linguine ¼ cup finely grated Pecorino, plus shaved for serving Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pancetta, reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 8–10 minutes. Add sage and toss to coat. Using a slotted…

SYDNEY HAS BEEN A GOOD eating city for decades, but it has only become a truly great one in the last few years. Finally, the city’s young chefs—and its diners—care less about what is happening in Europe and the United States and are instead looking to their Asian neighbors for influence—as well as in their own backyards for ingredients. Nowadays when I return home, choices run from dramatic Cantonese and elegantly subdued Japanese to a wine bar serving wontons. All of these spots are embracing local and lesser-known Australian products—think wallaby and old man saltbush. These aren’t kitsch copies of their Asian counterparts; they’re venues with an irreverence and sexiness typical of Sydney. Some call the city “the capital of modern Asian food,” but what’s really happening here is the…

Photographs by CHRISTOPHER BAKER Since its opening last year, Estela, a so-dimly-lit-you-can’t-Instagram-it spot in NYC’s Nolita neighborhood, has become an unofficial canteen for Bon Appétit’s editors. There, via a menu that meanders through Spain, Italy, and points beyond, we find inspiration in Ignacio Mattos’s unexpected flavors and deceptively simple plating. It’s easy to rave about perfectly cooked steak (which he serves with anchovy). But our next-day recaps always come back to the salads: We admire how Mattos unlocks the potential of even the humblest ingredients. Now, with his fresh ideas for winter salads, you can, too. —JULIA KRAMER Seared Scallops with Avocado and Daikon 4 SERVINGS Make this salad without plating anxiety: Treat the daikon rounds like a deck of cards and let them fall where they may. ½ medium…

For the past decade, I have sought out sea urchin like a zombified bipedal sea otter. I have eaten giant red urchins—uni, in sushi-speak—alive and wiggling in slow motion from the dock in Santa Barbara, California, and I’ve slurped from split shells in the street markets of Catania, Sicily. I’ve eaten it in $15 panini in Manhattan and off of a trompe l’oeil seashore of frozen rocks and ice in Copenhagen. Many times I have heard the sotto voce benediction of “Hokkaido” delivered when the sushi chef hands over that trumping-everything-else piece of uni nigiri. Many times I have thought, Someday. Someday I will go there, to the northernmost island of Japan, and eat that most revered of urchins in full view of the waters from which it was plundered.…

BA STAFF PICK THE CHICKEN BISCUIT AT PIES-N-THIGHS IN BROOKLYN MAY BE THE PERFECT FOOD. THE TENDER CHICKEN IS SANDWICHED BETWEEN AN ANGELIC BISCUIT: GLORIOUSLY FLUFFY AND SMEARED WITH HONEY BUTTER AND HOT SAUCE. —ALISON ROMAN, senior associate food editor FRIED CHICKEN BISCUITS 4 SERVINGS Fried chicken on a hot buttered biscuit—what’s not to like? Success is in the details; learn how to master the biscuits in Prep School on page 112. CHICKEN CUTLETS 1 cup buttermilk 1 Tbsp. hot sauce ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper 4 skinless, boneless chicken cutlets (about 1½ lb. total), pounded to ¼" thickness HONEY BUTTER AND ASSEMBLY ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature ¼ cup honey ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more Vegetable…

WONKI WARE ALL-PURPOSE BOWL Di Marshall Pottery is legendary in South Africa; now it’s available stateside. $79 for four; wisteria.com 2 MARTINE MIKAELOFF BOWL This handsome crackled glaze finish is shot through with aqua. $145; ABC Carpet & Home, 212-473-3000 3 RICE BOWL Commissioned by Husk chef Sean Brock, this bowl’s glaze is made with ash collected from Anson Mills’ burned rice hulls. $72; CBFB Tablescapes, 843-534-8660 4 BRICKETT DAVDA “GARDEN” BOWL Navy is the perfect backdrop for bouillabaisse. $70; March, 415-931-7433 5 “CANTINE” BOWL Jars Céramistes’ emerald dishes brighten up any winter spread. $108 for four; williams-sonoma.com 6 SUE PARASKEVA PASTA BOWL The British potter’s hand-thrown speckled stoneware is right on trend. $84; herriottgrace.com 7 MAE MOUGIN “PATTERNS” SOUP BOWL Try pairing this exotic motif with a Moroccan tagine.…

My husband, Patrick, turned 41 last year. For his birthday, he wanted a dinner party with fondue. I said, "Okay, if we’re I going to do this, we’ve got to do it right." So we combined three cheeses from some of the farms I work with-Spring Brook Farm Tarentaise and Reading raclette from Vermont, and Landaff cheese from Landaff Creamery in New Hampshire-and put two pots on the table, along with baguettes cut into little medallions, local apples, slices of Surryano ham from S. Wallace Edwards, some cornichons, and white wine from France’s Jura region. Our guests were a little trepidatious at first, but once they dove in and started eating, it was a total hit. It was also a total mess, but that’s half the fun. The secret to…

SEAWEED, once best known to most Americans as the papery green stuff in a California roll, has recently made the switch from niche health food to haute cuisine. Restaurants around the country are taking cues from Asian and Nordic chefs who prize légumes de mer for their snappy texture and deeply oceanic, umami-rich flavor. Seaweeds—a loose category of edible saltwater plants that includes nori, kelp, and algae—are washing up all over the place, from the seaweed butter at Nashville’s Rolf and Daughters to the airy, briny tofu and seaweed beignets at Los Angeles’s Alma (both restaurants were on BA’s Hot 10 list last year). Michael Cimarusti, chef at Providence in L.A., likes to fry tendrils of spindly wakame for a crunchy saline garnish, and incorporates powdered nori into a lemon…

THERE IS A FIRE IN MY KITCHEN. Not the tame blue flicker of the gas range, but a roaring mini-inferno of hickory logs burning mesmerizingly bright in the fireplace. Over the flames there rests a custom-built steel grill, heating up as the wood turns to glowing coals. The height of its slatted surface can be adjusted by a handsome, industrial-looking crank wheel set into the matte white tile surround. I turn it around and back, just for the joy of watching the grates go up and down. Never mind that it’s a balmy late summer evening. Or that I am the world’s worst environmentalist, a Hummer of humanity, closing the windows and blasting the AC to keep the room cool. I don’t care. I’ve been waiting a long time for…

Models have posed on Lela Rose’s dining room table. She’s thrown dinners for 68 and has a tequila room for heartier guests. But that’s in New York City. It’s different here in the Catskills. Not long ago, the fashion designer and her husband, Brandon Jones, bought a Frank Lloyd Wright–inspired home down a dirt road as a weekend retreat. So how does the entertainer unwind two hours outside of the city? By hosting parties, of course. The vibe is low-key, as at this lunch with friends, prepared by Rose’s pal, chef Dan Kluger of New York’s ABC Kitchen. (Timesaving tip: Befriend an outstanding chef, invite him to the country, then enjoy.) The pair became friends as Greenmarket regulars, and now Rose hosts her post–fashion show lunches at the restaurant. “What…

FROM P.38 With all the varieties of winter squash at the market, choosing the right type for the right dish can be confounding. We’re here to help: Each of our three favorites has a particular talent, so play them to their strengths. BUTTERNUT Browns beautifully when roasted, enhancing its nutty flavor. Plus, it’s resilient (read: It won’t turn to mush when cooked). KABOCHA Despite its thick, tough skin, kabocha’s fine­grained and sweet flesh yields the creamiest (almost potato-like) puree. DELICATA Has quick-cooking flesh and thin, edible skin, making it ideal for simply slicing and tossing into soups and stews. WHICH FETA IS BETTA? Greece is famous for feta, but good cheese shops offer types from several countries. Sheep’s-milk fetas (the classic) tend to be sharpest; goat’s-and cow’s-milk versions are milder.…