Bon Appetit Apr-14

1. TRUST YOURSELF “Whether it comes to a roast or a particular bean, it’s all about what you like—not about what someone is telling you you should like.” 2. GRIND IT RIGHT “If you want to nail consistently great coffee, invest in a better grinder. Either conical or flat burrs can do an awesome job.” 3. STEADY THE WATER TEMPERATURE “When brewing pour-over or drip, aim for the higher end of the 195–205 degree range—but not boiling.” 4. WATCH THE TIME “You don’t have to split hairs over milliseconds, but there’s a reason recommended brewing times—and kitchen timers—exist.” THE HASHTAG You never know what will elicit heated opinions on Twitter. Case in point: a recent query from our Twitterer in Chief. “Can someone explain to me glass cutting boards?” @rapo4…

A REAL PROJECT MY WIFE HAS THIS FRIEND Meeghan Truelove, who, besides having a brilliant name, throws a helluva dinner party. I like that she does the opposite of what I do. I’m always telling people to cook what they know—to play it safe when guests are coming over. Meeghan goes big. On a snowy night last winter, she threw a cassoulet party: 15 or so friends, each bringing a bottle of red, a long, rambling table with candles and mismatched plates and cutlery, and two big crocks of bubbling cassoulet. One recipe came from the estimable Paula Wolfert, the other from Canal House. Meeghan had never made cassoulet before, but this didn’t stop her from grinding her own Toulouse sausage, sourcing authentic Tarbais beans, and confiting duck legs, and…

READERS’ FAVORITE RESTAURANT RECIPES —GEORGE D. MCCOY, Raleigh, NC GRILLED HANGER STEAK WITH CUCUMBER SALAD 4 SERVINGS We’re hooked on the juicy and crunchy textures and sweet and spicy flavors in this steak and salad pairing. HANGER STEAK 1 2" piece lemongrass, tough outer layers removed, lightly smashed, very thinly sliced ¼ cup (packed) light brown sugar 3 Tbsp. fish sauce 2 Tbsp. Asian sweet chili sauce 1½ lb. hanger steak, center membrane removed (see page 109), cut into 4 pieces CUCUMBER SALAD AND ASSEMBLY ½ cup unseasoned rice vinegar 2 Tbsp. Asian sweet chili sauce 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 medium cucumber, thinly sliced 1 medium carrot, peeled, julienned ½ small daikon, peeled, julienned ½ small red onion, thinly sliced Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ½ cup…

PHOTOGRAPH BY DANNYKIM METAL OF HONOR A recent move from Manhattan to Brooklyn forced me to downsize my kitchen. One thing I was unwilling to part with in the clean-out was my carbon-steel skillet. Lighter than cast iron and more versatile than nonstick, it does the job of both—evenly conducting heat like a diner griddle and easily releasing even the most delicate fish. Its preseasoned surface gets better with age, and more important, it helped me perfect my omelet game. That alone is enough to earn it a spot on my list of kitchen essentials. —ALISON ROMAN Lodge makes excellent seasoned carbonsteel skillets in 8-, 10-, and 12-inch models ($40–$50, williamssonoma.com).…

All Cracked Up Don’t let those leftover Easter eggs go to waste. Instead, chop them up for a Middle Eastern salad, toss with pasta, or get downright devilish with pickled chiles CAMPANELLE WITH EGGS AND CAPERS ¼>ej" YebZ" eh heec temperature, I love the briny bite of the capers and anchovies against the creamy eggs.”—Dawn Perry, senior food editor Cook ½ lb. campanelle (or other short pasta) until al dente; drain, reserving ’ Ykf fWijW Yeea_d] b_gk_Z$ >[Wj ¼ cup olive oil over medium heat. Add 4 anchovy fillets, 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, 2 Tbsp. capers, and ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until anchovies dissolve, about 2 minutes. Toss in pasta, ¼ cup finely grated Parmesan, and 2 tsp. lemon juice, adding pasta cooking liquid…

QUESTIONS FOR Okay, let’s do this. What’s the last thing you ate? “One of those thin bagels with lox, and an iced tea.” Death row meal of choice. “I make this super-garlicky pasta with red peppers, zucchini, and Parmesan. They probably wouldn’t let me make my own pasta on death row, but I would ask anyway.” World’s greatest food city. "Rome. But right now Chicago is killing it.” Your go-to movie snack. “Usually I’ll just eat popcorn, but if theaters would sell me goat cheese and garlic with Triscuit crackers, I’d give them all my money.” What was the cause of your last hangover? “Extra-dirty vodka Martinis. They’re so easy to drink! I should really just drink olive juice; it’d be safer.” Greatest food hates. “Beets. They look so appealing,…