Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2017 i Bon Appetit

THE CHEF SAYS “Cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins are all in the gourd family, so they complement each other even if it seems strange. Pepitas bring that full-on crunch to the soft, sweet cantaloupe.” _SAM SMITH, chef, Tusk CANTALOUPE AND CUCUMBER SALAD 4 SERVINGS Savory fruit salads are officially a thing. See the sidebar on page 24 for more proof. (And, for the record, cucumber is a fruit.) ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup Champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar 1 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1/8 tsp. ground cardamom ½ large cantaloupe, rind and seeds removed, flesh cut into 1" pieces 1 large English hothouse cucumber,sliced on a diagonal ½" thick 2 Fresno chiles, thinly sliced ½ cup unsalted, roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)…

SEEN AT: Tai Chi Jianbing, San Francisco (pictured); Bing Mi, Por tland, OR; The Flying Pig, NYC 1 Crunch Wrap Supreme Keep an eye out for jianbing, the savory Chinese crepe popping up more and more stateside. The soft mung bean wrapper, typically layered with eggs, scallions, bean paste, and a crispy wonton cracker, is a popular breakfast in Beijing, but here it’s catching on as a portable anytime snack. _ASHLEY MASON…

Biscuit queen Felicia Doster behind the counter at the Chevron gas station. Felicia Doster arrives at 4:30 a.m. to start making the day’s biscuits. The first batch, mixed from scratch and rolled out by hand, will number about 50. By the day’s end, a little after lunch, she’ll have sold 300 crackling, butter-brushed biscuits stuffed full of splitpork sausages or tenderloin or, of course, bacon, egg, and cheese. For years, her regulars, everyone from construction workers to bank executives to farmers, knew where to find her: at the back counter of the Chevron at the corner of U.S. 78 and Troy Smith Road, just east of Between, GA. When she moves her operation a few miles down the road to the Marathon station in Monroe in June, many will follow.…

I HAD NEVER BEEN TO FRANCE. I know, who cares? Plenty of people never go to France, and they’re just fine. But I’m a wine writer, and French wines are my everything. Any given glass can send me spiraling into the kind of wide-eyed crush usually reserved for seventh-graders. Every bottle I open might spark an obsession that has me back at the wine shop the next day, grabbing every neck left on the shelf. But why? Was it the romantic notion of terroir or something technical like carbonic maceration, or, as some truly terrible people say, a certain je ne sais quoi ? Yeah, I drink French wines from the corner of my couch in Los Angeles daily, but I knew that I’d never really understand them—or my love of…

SUTTLE LODGE Sisters , OR Some go for the postcard-worthy lakeside setting in Deschutes National Forest, about a three-hour drive south of Portland. Others go to unplug and drink wine in front of a fire in one of the cozy cabins. Us? We go to the 15-acre Suttle Lodge for the Fish and Chips Sandwich. Chef Joshua McFadden of Portland’s Ava Gene’s takes a fillet of trout, crusts it in crushed Kettlebrand potato chips, then deep-fries it to golden, crunchy perfection. It comes tucked into a soft potato roll with tartar sauce, pickles, and crisp iceberg lettuce. And yes, it tastes as good as it looks. If you ask nicely, they’ll add heirloom tomatoes (summer only!) and cheddar.…

No, this isn’t a super -cute shop in town, it’s the Honor Pantry at Rivertown Lodge. Think of the Honor Pantry at Rivertown Lodge like a hallway vending machine, if vending machines were filled with things like small-batch Talbott & Arding pimiento cheese and Piggery cured ham, all made in (or very close to) Hudson, NY. Then there’s the fact that there’s no eye-gouging markup: Everything from La Esquina salsa to Newburgh IPA six-packs are priced comparably with a corner store.…

Dinner Tonight CHEF ALON SHAYA has Monday nights off from Shaya, his New Orleans restaurant, but you’ll find him in the kitchen all the same. He and his wife, Emily, kick off the week by hosting a feast for family and friends, taking the opportunity to cook, well, whatever he wants for a change. “Last week I made soup dumplings,” says Shaya, who made his name cooking bright veg-forward Israeli food. “I like to break out of my comfort zone.” Whatever’s on the menu, his approach to home cooking is the same as it is at his restaurant, which means sauces spiked with fragrant spices and big hits of acidity—think an aromatic harissa that has the power to kick up any weeknight protein. (Chef, we’re free next Monday, so you…

Marinated Goat Cheese with Herbs and Spices 6 SERVINGS 8 oz. fresh goat cheese 1 tsp. allspice berries ½ tsp. coriander seeds 3 garlic cloves, smashed 2 3" strips orange zest 2 fresh bay leaves 1 star anise pod 1/3 cup olive oil ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 baguette, sliced ½" thick on a diagonal Flaky sea salt Gently break goat cheese into large pieces; arrange in a serving bowl. Let sit at room temperature while you infuse oil. Crush allspice and coriander with the flat side of a chef’s knife. Place in a small saucepan along with garlic, orange zest, bay leaves, star anise, oil, and red pepper flakes. Cook over low, swirling pan occasionally, until garlic is golden, 15–20 minutes. Pour over goat cheese. Let sit…

IF THERE’S ONE THING I DO to make my life easier during the week, it’s make a sauce. I fix a small jar’s worth, stick it in the fridge, and rest easy knowing that I’ve got a dependable, phone-a-friend lifeline for after-work meals. A sauce breathes life into humble rice and perks up roasted vegetables. It complements rich meats, makes salads sing, and completes a grain bowl in one swoosh. There are a million ways to make an herb sauce; this is the version I’ve got on speed dial right now. It’s basically a combination of the ingredients I reach for most often (miso, tahini, honey) blended together with herbs into a single condiment. The result is tangy, vibrant—I may go as far as to say it’s addictive. The flavor…

THE DOUGH Letting some of the flour ferment with the yeast and most of the liquid (a mixture called a sponge or pre-ferment) before adding the rest of the ingredients creates deeper flavor you’ll taste in the baked buns. THE FLOUR Incorporating whole wheat flour into the bread flour means the dough will be nutty and complex, and have a stretchy pull when you tear off a piece. THE SHAPE Cutting the dough at a slight angle gives the treats a topsy-turvy look, which is more fun than your average bun. THE TOPPINGS A coating of honey butter and a sprinkling of fine sanding sugar at the end add crunch and sheen. THE FLAVOR Magic happens when you combine vanilla, citrus zest, and warm spices like cinnamon and cardamom. The…

What started out as a ripple in 2007 with Wahaca has now blown into a full-on movement in London (you know, some thousands of miles from Mexico) with the arrivals of Temper, El Pastór, Bad Sports, and Corázon in 2016 alone. But the reigning king is Breddos, which first came to life as a shack in a Hackney car park. Now a legitimate restaurant, it relies on English produce to build flavorful bites influenced by the roadside taquerias that the cooks encountered during trips they made throughout America’s West Coast and Mexico. There’s cochinita pibil made from pig’s head, and a signature fried Baja fish taco—which, when you think about it, isn’t much different from England’s own fish and chips.…

THE SECOND I STEPPED OFF the small commuter plane in Oaxaca City and onto the precar ious ly perched s tairs , I smelled smoke. Not exhaust: It was more of a hearty, woodsy smoke. I thought to myself, Someone nearby mus t be roasting hearts of agave over an open flame—the traditional process for making mezcal, the high-octane (and highly drinkable) spirit popular in this region. I was later told it was more likely that the smell was coming from burning trash. This would be the first of many instances where I realized I had a lot to learn in Oaxaca. I am a professional cook and had been to Mexico before. But as I made my way through Oaxaca, it became clear that when it came to the…

aSK AN AMERICAN if she knows where Tofino is and you’ll likely get a blank stare. But ask practically any Western Canadian about this speck of a surf town on the remote west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, and you’ll see her face transform. Eyes wide with longing, she’ll remember some trip to this unicorn of a place, where majestic temperate rainforests meet the kind of rocky shores you see only on screen savers. New Englanders have Maine; Californians, Big Sur. People in this corner of the world have Tofino, and it may be more beautiful than both of those places combined. We’d been wandering the mossy forest just outside of town for less than an hour, but Nick Nutting, the chef of Wolf in the Fog, had already…

R.S.V.P. pp. 18–24 BAM BAM BAKERY 267 Commercial St., Portland, ME; 207-899-4100; bambambakery.com CAFE O’LEI 2439 S. Kihei Rd. No. 201A, Kihei, HI; 808-891-1368; cafeoleirestaurants.com TUSK 2448 E. Burnside St., Portland, OR; 503-894-8082; www.tuskpdx.com STARTERS pp. 27–56 BING MI SW Ninth and Alder St., Portland, OR; 503-539-3617; bingmiportland.com CHICAGO ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION HOTEL 12 S. Michigan Ave., Chicago; 312-940-3552; chicagoathletichotel.com THE CRAWFORD HOTEL 1701 Wynkoop St., Denver; 720-460-3700; thecrawfordhotel.com DA CAINO Via della Chiesa, 4, Montemerano, Italy; +39-0564-602817; dacaino.com FLATT’S 27-26-3 Yanami, Noto-cho, Hosu-gun, Ishikawa, Japan; flatt.jp/en THE FLYING PIG 61 Lexington Ave., NYC; theflyingpignyc.com HEWING HOTEL 300 Washington Ave. N, Minneapolis; 866-831-7121; hewinghotel.com HOTEL EMMA 136 E. Grayson St., San Antonio; 210-448-8300; thehotelemma.com HÔTEL LE RELAIS SAINT GERMAIN 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, Paris; +33-1-44-27-07-97; hotel-paris-relais-saint-germain.com LAS ALCOBAS 1915 Main St.,…

Airport Survival iORDERING Do I have to use the iPad thin( to order? I get why airport restaurants want to serve 100 diners with just two waiters… but we cannot let our robot overlords win. If human interaction is what you’re after, belly up to the bar. SCENTIMENTAL How do I know if the smell of my plane food is offensive? Dude, you know. If there’s doubt… there’s no doubt. REFUELING How many drinks at the airport bar is too many? There’s a formula! Hours Before Flight × 2 (if HBF #$) or 1.5 (if HBF %$) = Maximum Number of Airport Drinks (Between ! a.m.– "":#$ a.m., MNAD & ') SHARING SIZE Should you o)er your neighbor some of your snack? Assuming your neighbor is not a child, a nun, someone with severe allergies, an…

Switchel A sweettangy combination of water, fiery ginger, cider vinegar, and a natural sweetener like maple syrup or molasses. Think of this stuff as hippie Gatorade—it’s what you want to chug after a long run on a hot day. FLAVOR PROFILE Spicy, refreshing HEALTH CLAIMS Electrolyte - rich; antiinflammatory; packed with antioxidants IN THE WILD Vermont Switchel, available at vtswitchel .com FERMENTED? Y/ N Water Kef ir This bubbly concoction is brewed from flavored, sweetened water or juice that has been fermented with the help of squishy grains full of friendly bacteria and yeasts, similar to the “mother” used to make kombucha. FLAVOR PROFILE Bright, tangy HEALTH CLAIM Probiotic IN THE WILD Strawberry Kefir at Chicago’s Cellar Door Provisions FERMENTED? Y /N Tepache Much beloved as a hot-weather thirst quencher…

WITH alfa Romeo In the United States, they say a restaurant is lucky to stay open past the two-year mark. In Europe, it's a bit different: consider Milan's Boeucc, which has been in operation for over 300 years (321, to be precise), and whose layers of history are keenly felt by anyone who dines there. Those diners aren't just history buffs, by the way: Boeucc is a vibrant modern restaurant which attracts Milan's contemporary movers and shakers, who appreciate its refined takes on classic local dishes, and an interior that combines modern touches with a rich heritage. The restaurant is located within the famous Palazzo Belgloloso—one of Lombardy's finest pieces of neoclassical architecture, designed by Giuseppe Plermarini, the architect responsible for the famous Scala theater nearby. Boeucc's main dining room,…

CRAWFORD HOTEL , Denver For me, a nightcap is a business-travel rite. It’s my way of establishing equilibrium in a faraway place. Most of the time it’s an unglamorous affair: bottles of minibar booze in a plastic tumbler, drunk in bed while trying to figure out how the cable works. (Don’t judge.) But on a stay at the Crawford Hotel in Denver’s Union Station, I found myself just steps from the Cooper Lounge on the mezzanine of the city’s lovingly restored (and still operational) beauxarts train station. It felt almost comically civilized, all marble and cut crystal, Manhattans deftly crafted and delivered on silver trays. And after lingering in my plush armchair just long enough and paying my bill by way of room number instead of plastic, I drifted to…

For jokes, food photos, and more, follow him on Twit ter and Instagram at @ikebarinholtz. I assume you travel a lot for work right now. “I do. Last year I ate a lot of airport food.” What’s your strategy? “There’s a couple ways to go. You can do some research before you fly. Or you can pack, like, a turkey sandwich on multigrain bread. Or you can do what I do, which is eat a Whopper out of a garbage can.” Yikes. What about on airplanes? “If I know I’ll be able to tune out and watch a movie, I’ll take food on the flight. But I’ll also take what they offer me. Like I’m a child of the Depression. ‘Are these free?!’” Room service philosophy? “It’s shocking how quickly…

Attention all big-birthdaycelebrating, anniversary-tripbooking readers: Single Thread is the newest member of the Very Special Hotel canon. Run by husband-and-wife duo Kyle and Katina Connaughton, it’s a restaurant/inn/farm in Sonoma County, where everything from the peas to the olive oil comes from the property. Kyle (late of the Fat Duck, Michel Bras) prepares seasonal meals, while Katina raises produce on the five-acre farm nearby. Room service breakfast can mean fresh-squeezed satsuma juice and Dungeness crab. Dinner is an 11-course Japanese-leaning meal, where the charred leeks on your cod will have started the day on the farm. Broccoli (and a lit tle moss for good measure) at Single Thread.…

New Yorkers are suckers for rooftops, and the space atop Williamsburg’s William Vale is no exception. Home to Andrew Carmellini’s burgerand- ice-cream-slinging Airstream, Mister Dips, it’s a good place to grab a cone of the Malter Cronkite (vanilla-andmalted- chocolate swirl with chocolate dip) while enjoying a view of the Manhattan skyline.…

Three-Chile Harissa MAKES ABOUT 1_ CUPS 15 dried chiles de árbol 2 dried guajillo chiles 1 dried ancho chile 1 Tbsp. cumin seeds 1½ tsp. coriander seeds 3 garlic cloves, smashed 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 1½ tsp. hot smoked Spanish paprika 1 tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup olive oil, divided Place árbol, guajillo, and ancho chiles in a large heatproof measuring glass. Pour boiling water over to submerge, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit until chiles are very pliable and cool enough to handle, 15–20 minutes. Drain; remove stems and seeds and discard (wear gloves for this part if you have them). Toast cumin and coriander in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat, tossing constantly, until very fragrant,…

STOCK YOUR PANTRY WITH…BANANA PEPPERS “We’re always using pickled or preserved ingredients at work,” Shaya says. In the restaurant, it’s typically something saved from a previous season, like put-up peaches or figs. At home, it could be jarred banana peppers or pepperoncini. “I love the vinegary bite they give,” he says. Opt for whole peppers over sliced, and avoid artificial coloring. Broiled Red Snapper with Za’atar Salsa Verde 4 SERVINGS 2 Tbsp. pine nuts 4 6-oz. skin-on, boneless red snapper fillets, patted dry Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ½ tsp. ground coriander 4 Tbsp. plus ½ cup olive oil " cup finely chopped cilantro " cup finely chopped parsley 1 small garlic clove, finely grated 1½ tsp. za’atar ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2…

THE MENU MISS OLLIE’S JERK CHICKEN COCONUT RICE AND PEAS MANGO AND CUCUMBER CHOW GARLICKY PLANTAINS SAUTÉ ED COLLARD GREENS RUM PUNCH Sarah Kirnon has been making fiery jerk chicken and sweet plantains since before she could drive. Growing up in Barbados with her grandmother, Miss Ollie, and nine other family members, she learned to think seasonally and cook on a large scale. (“We had a plot of land and farm animals,” Kirnon says. “And it wasn’t trendy or hip.”) But the island cuisine she made back then always stuck with her, even as she tried her hand at Italian, French, and Creole cuisine. Now, at Oakland’s beloved Miss Ollie’s, Kirnon puts a novel spin on the food of her youth—like spicy cucumber and mango chow, soulwarming rice and peas, and…

I AM IN THE DEATH THROES of finishing the Superiority Burger cookbook, which is six agonizing months past its deadline. I’ve been writing the thing in spasms on my phone every other night at a bar on First Avenue in NYC during the time it takes to decompress after service and rapidly nurse two drinks, continuing the burst as I walk to the train and then through the ride home, but passing out right before any really good ideas get polished. How do you work 14 hours a day in a kitchen and also find the creative energy to write about those hours? You don’t. Except for those dribbles. And when, exactly, am I supposed to cobble those dribbles into a functioning manuscript? I have 18 recipe headnotes left to…

IT ’S MONDAY NIGHT, and the Korean salarymen swarm the seats of Geosung, wi th i ts tables l i t beneath an amber glow. The restaurant is a few blocks away f rom Gwanghwamun Square, the plaza where a Saturday protest against the president had drawn millions. But as the work week begins again, so do the comfor ts and routines of daily life . It’s time for chimaek, a tradition that combines the Korean term for beer, maekju, with the English loanword for chicken. A KOREAN - AMERICAN translator, Douglas, was guiding me through some of the best chimaek restaurants, or hofs, in town. We ordered tall glasses of Cass, the Korean beer that is (along with Hite and OB) one of three largely indistinguishable domestic brews you…

When chefs hit the road, all bets are off. We asked a few to share the guilty pleasure that keeps them fueled from one pit stop to the next. “Gummi worms are essentially radioactive, but they help me stay awake while I’m driving. The only downside is that my mouth hurts after I’ve had too many, which is always.” _MICHAEL SOLOMONOV, chef and co-owner, Zahav in Philadelphia “While researching my new book, I discovered a love for Slim Jims and Cool Ranch Doritos dipped in Texas Pete Hot Sauce. Pouring it into a deli cup prevents it from spilling all over the car.” _EDWARD LEE, chef-owner, 610 Magnolia in Louisville, KY “When I’m road-tripping abroad, I always go for potato chip flavors that you rarely see in the States. Canadian…

Forget about those days of cubed, mushy melon. Take some inspiration from these innovative fruit salads that straddle the line between sweet and savory. WATERMELON Public Greens in Indianapolis serves a lighter take on classic bruschetta, combining watermelon with tomatoes, fresh mint, feta, and lime juice, then spooning it on a grilled baguette. PEAR An herby verbena vinaigrette pulls together chopped jicama, pear, and avocado at P.Y.T. in Los Angeles. Parsley and pomegranate seeds bring a burst of color to the plate. STRAWBERRY At Southbound in Richmond, VA, chefs Joe Sparatta and Lee Gregory pickle strawberries to enhance their juiciness. They serve the tangy fruit tossed with beets and pistachios over burrata. APPLE Chef Michael Simmons of Café Marie-Jeanne in Chicago pairs raw apple with fennel to balance its licorice-y…

To all my snack friends: You have never tried a better tortilla chip than Home Made by Sabor Mexicano out of Berkeley, CA. They’re thick enough to handle guac but light enough you’ll want to polish off the bag in one sitting. They smell and taste like freshly roasted corn. They are not meant for nachos (that’d be like using Dom Pérignon for your office punch), and salsa, your services are not needed—these chips need no embellishments. _ANDREW KNOWLTON…

I played sports for the pizza and Coke. After a Little League baseball game, the team would pile into the back of the coach’s red Chevy pickup and head to the local pizza place. You know the type: cheesy pies made by teenagers in Pink Floyd tees, booths, pitchers of soda, Tiffany-style lamps, and, best of all, arcade games. Turns out I’m not the only one feeling nostalgic. At least that’s what I thought as I slid into a fake-wood-veneer booth at Scarr’s Pizza in New York City, one of several spots invoking the pizza taverns of my youth (see also Pizza Jerk in Portland, OR; Dino’s Tomato Pie in Seattle; Pizza Brain in Philadelphia). I thought about teaching my daughters to dip their crust in ranch dressing, but I…

The all-new Alfa Romeo Giulia is a study in balance, honoring the brand's heritage while adopting many layers of cutting-edge technology. Many of the car's innvovations can't be seen, but are viscerally experienced as soon as you press the race-inspired start button. Between the Nappa leather front seats ¡s the DNA Drive Mode Selector: N for Natural optimizes shift positions, braking and engine for everyday driving. A is for Advanced Efficiency, which biases settings to be more eco-friendly. D for Dynamic is where the Giulia's Italian racing pedigree becomes Instantly apparent. The car's heart is an all-aluminum, turbo-charged 4-cylinder, with an astonishing 280 hp. That explains the hurry as it hits 60 mph in just 5.1 seconds and tops out at 149 mph. With speed like that, brakes are important,…

1. Thou shalt not charge guests for Wi-Fi. 2. Thy late -night room service menu is thy most holy of menus. 3. Thy furnishings shalt not be so modern as to be inoperable. 4. Thy bot tled water shalt be complimentary. (At least the first bottle!) 5. Thy guests still appreciate small candies or cookies at turndown, you know? 6. Thou shalt stock more than three hangers in thy closet. 7. Thy bathrobes better be plush. 8. Thy rooms must have coffee. Or thy lobby better have a solid coffee spot. 9. Thy premises shalt include a gym, even if thine guests don’t quite get around to using it. 10. Thy outlets shalt not be hidden behind thine furniture. (And if thou ar t so generous as to have a…

If we find a hotel that happens to have, say, a restaurant specializing in hearthcooked local game or a diner-and-Asianinspired- tasting-menu spot from a top chef, we book a room in a heartbeat. Throw in a Third Wave coffee shop and a bar helmed by a rockstar bartender, and you’ve got the just-opened Line D.C. Woodberry Kitchen’s Spike Gjerde and Maketto’s Erik Bruner- Yang have teamed up to bless the neoclassical church turned hotel with five distinct food and drink concepts. And we haven’t even gotten to the room service congee yet.…

The sprawling Hotel Emma isn’t just a place to crash in style; it’s also home base for exploring San Antonio’s Pearl District, a vibrant 16-block area once home to the legendary Pearl Brewery. You can spend a full day without leaving the Pearl’s boundaries and_still consume everything from croissants to tacos to snapper collars. Here’s my favorite way to do it. You can’t beat the location (or the vibes) of the Roman and Williams– designed Hotel Emma. 9 A.M. Grab a cup at Local Coffee, where you’ll hang with, yes, the locals. 9:30 A.M. Two former Thomas Keller acolytes run Bakery Lorraine, which means the croissants and morning buns are legit. Grab some macarons for an afternoon sugar fix. 10:30 A.M. If it’s the weekend, it’s farmers’ market time in…

Charred Asparagus with Citrus Bagna Cauda 4 SERVINGS . 2 Tbsp. skin-on almonds 2 oil-packed anchovy fillets 4 garlic cloves, smashed 1 sprig oregano 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1_ lb. asparagus, trimmed Place a rack in upper third of oven and preheat to 350_. Scatter almonds across a rimmed baking sheet and toast, tossing once, until darkened a little and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then coarsely chop. Cook anchovies, garlic, oregano, lemon zest, orange zest, butter, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a small saucepan over low heat, swirling occasionally, until garlic is golden, 15–20 minutes. Remove from…

The chia, flax, and hemp seeds in these lit tle bites pack a serious nutritional punch. Cocoa-Nut Energy Bites 1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil,melted, cooled, plus more for pan 3 Tbsp. cacao nibs 5 oz. pitted Medjool dates (about 8) _ cup nut butter 3 Tbsp. ground chia seeds, ground flaxseed, and/or ground hemp seeds 1 tsp. kosher salt _ tsp. ground cinnamon 3 Tbsp. almond flour or meal 3 Tbsp. unsweetened shredded coconut Flaky sea salt Brush an 8_x4_" loaf pan with oil; line with parchment paper, leaving an overhang on long sides. Pulse cacao nibs in a food processor to a fine powder; transfer to a bowl. Place dates in a small heatproof bowl; pour boiling water over to submerge. Cover with plastic wrap; let sit until softened,…

Quick-Pickled Rhubarb Salad Pack 2 rhubarb stalks, sliced on a diagonal, into a heatproof 1-pint jar. Bring 1 cup red wine vinegar, ½ cup sugar, 1½ tsp. kosher salt, and ¾ cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt. Pour into jar. Cover and chill until cold, at least 1 hour and up to 1 week. Toss together 1 fennel bulb, halved, cored, very thinly sliced, 3 celery stalks, thinly sliced on a diagonal, 1 cup drained pickled rhubarb, and 2 Tbsp. pickling liquid; season with salt. Arrange salad on a platter; drizzle with olive oil and grind some pepper over. Top with celery leaves and remaining drained pickled rhubarb. 4 servings Rhubarb Compote Cook ⅓ cup sugar in a medium saucepan over…

Borough Market The most famous of all, it built its reputation as a wholesaler before pivoting to vendors. Don’t Miss: London’s best doughnuts at Bread Ahead. The Crowd: Tourists, historians. Brick Lane An OG staple that has anything you could want. Secondhand bike? Got it. Totally delicious lunch? Sure! Don’t Miss: Teabrined chicken tenders at Mother Clucker. The Crowd: Hip, hungover. Street Feast Dinerama London’s honorary snacking HQ, where the flavors are loud—and so is the indie rock. Don’t Miss: Odd-but-tasty crab fries from Prawnography. The Crowd: Kids who communicate in emoji.…

EAT ME by Kenny Shopsin Kenny Shopsin is a philosopher, a poet, and a national culinary treasure who could only be of and for New York City. His daughter and son-in-law, Tamara Shopsin and Jason Fulford, designed this masterpiece. A true work of art. CHOCOLATE DESSERTS BY PIERRE HERMÉ by Dorie Greenspan While living in Los Angeles in the mid-aughts, I had a kitchen job at a nightclub that didn’t need any food to be prepared. So I taught myself Hermé’s classic macaron technique with Greenspan’s easy-to-understand prose leading the charge. And I ate all the cookies. THE LAST COURSE by Claudia Fleming The greatest dessert book in the history of the world. I bought this the day it came out and stole from it relentlessly for many years. Sadly,…

I WAS RAISED ON CEREAL and Pop-Tarts. This was the mid- ’90s on Long Island, New York. My mother, Leah, brought us up all by herself, so she didn’t always have time to prepare the traditional Taiwanese dishes she grew up with, much less persuade my sisters and me to eat these unfamiliar foods. It wasn’t until college that I became obsessed with Taiwanese food. One afternoon I went to Bei Gang, an old-school Taiwanese place in Flushing, and ordered Fly’s Head, a funky chive and ground pork dish. The bites of pungent, garlicky chives transported me back to the dishes my dad’s mom used to make when I visited her in Taiwan. I got lost in that memory. If you eat the food your ancestors ate, your body just…

THE VITALS Hometown Cullman, AL Gig before making it big Stripper Most famous film role Stripper Food nickname for his wife Cake Drinks he could do without Limoncello, grappa, and gin Channing Tatum has one of the greatest natural gifts on earth: a good sense of timing, be it in comedy, dancing— or boozing. He always knows how to pick the right drink, no matter the situation. On airplanes, it depends on the length of the flight. “If I’m going to Europe, I’ll usually have wine with food, mainly red,” he says. “If it’s a short flight, good old faithful Jack Daniel’s.” Back on land, there’s a decent chance he’s drinking vodka, specifically his vodka. Tatum recently partnered on a new line, Born and Bred, with Grand Teton Distillery, an…